Montgomery Wards Self Cleaning Oven -HELP

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mustangman

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Mar 8, 2006
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I have two questions. Where do I find the model number on a Wards Range? How does the oven self clean? It is a self cleaning unit but I can't figure out how the oven cleans automatically. There is a control on the console that says clean, Instructions on the inside of the oven door say to set selector knob to clean and turn timer past Stop for two hours for normal cleaning. There is a latch or catch at the top of the door but when you set the selector knob to CLEAN the door does not lock. Is the door supposed to lock?

Maybe if I had the model number off the range someone here could tell me how to clean the oven properly.

I did buy some Easy Off fume free cleaner that is safe for self cleaning ovens and it says to spray on a cold oven and wait a few hours and sponge off.

In the 50's and 60's oven cleaners were sprayed on and you had to turn the oven on to a certain temperature to clean it.

Rich
 
Uh, generally, in the self-cleaning ovens

I've used, locking the door is usually the first step.

This one may be different.

The data plate could be one of three (most likely) places. Under the cooktop, on the frame of the oven, usually to the upper left, or on the frame of the drawer at the bottom.

Hope this gives you a useful idea.

Lawrence/Maytagbear
 
Usually to initiate a self-clean you

Lock the door first
Turn the switch to "Clean"
Set the timer for how long you want the cleaning process to last (2-3 Hours)
The oven should start heating up soon. If it doesn't check to see if there is a start/stop timer on the oven. If there is, set it to the current time. Our GE P7 Oven had a set up like that.
When the oven cools, just use a damp paper towel to wipe up the dust that has been left over.
 
Flip The Door Latch

Usually, on self-clean ovens that don't have a motorised door lock, you flip the door latch manually. It usually flips to the left. Once the oven is up to self-cleaning temperature, an interlock prevents the latch from being moved until the cleaning cycle is complete, and the oven cools back down below 400 degrees or something like that.
 
MustangMan, your oven may have an automatic lock that engages when the temperature gets high enough and releases when it cools. That's what happens with my newer GE Profile.

Try setting a cleaning cycle per the instructions and see what happens. If the oven is very dirty, the recommended time is typically 3 hours instead of two.
 
Oops, forgot to mention that I've heard that while traditional oven cleaner can be used on a self-cleaning unit, it can be dangerous to run a self-clean cycle after doing so because toxic fumes can be released from subjecting any oven cleaner residue to high temperatures. At the very least, rinse the interior as thoroughly as possible with a wet cloth.
 
I made the mistake one time of spraying Easy Off inside of a "continuous clean" oven one time. That thing never looked clean. Everytime I turned that oven on for the next six months the house would stink of Easy Off fumes.
We eventually junked it and got a new stove with a self clean oven.
BTW, I usually thought that only electric stoves had Self Cleaning Ovens, but I have seen quite a few gas models that have it as well. How good is the gas continuous clean?
 
Oops! Yes, continuous-clean and self-clean aren't the same thing, and oven cleaner CANNOT be used on continuous-clean, it will damage the coating.

My grandmother has a gas self-clean Whirlpool. She is meticulous about wiping up spills so it was a number of years until a cleaning cycle was justified. When I ran it, the thermostat promptly crapped-out and it got VDH*. Apparently the tip of the probe had corroded and the higher cleaning temp killed it completely. The range was out-of-warranty, and a replacement 'stat was not cheap. So we've not hazarded to run another cleaning cycle.

* Very Damned Hot
 
Continuous Clean

The way to salvage a continuous-clean oven that has been sprayed with oven cleaner is to use straight (undiluted) sudsy ammonia and a soft-bristled scrub brush. Obviously, you want to open the windows and turn on some fans. As you scrub, use a sponge to mop up excess ammonia. Rinse with a sponge and clean water, then rinse again with white vinegar and water, to neutralise the ammonia. Clean the oven racks with oven cleaner and a Brillo pad. Turn the oven to 500 degrees for an hour, to burn off any remaining residue.

It's hard work, but if it's done correctly, the oven will look and perform like new. Also, if you need to use oven cleaner in a SELF-cleaning oven for any reason, you should neutralise it with white vinegar, so that the chemical residue it leaves will not activate in a self-cleaning cycle and damage the oven interior.
 
You learn something new all the time!

Thanks for the lessons about continous clean and self cleaning. Come to think of it I haven't seen a continuous clean oven in quite some time. Do they even still make them?
The GE P7 double oven we had in our last house did a marvelous job with the self-clean cycle. There was no oven stain that it couldn't burn away. For some odd reason only the top oven was self cleaning, the bottom one was manual clean (yuk!)
 
Whirlcool:

I don't know if continuous clean is still made for large ovens- I do know it's still used extensively for toaster ovens and countertop ovens. I am chained to a continuous clean oven for the time being- there is a built-in one in this house, and I can't justify the expense of changing it out, since we won't be here long. What is really maddening is that my trusty Whirly self-cleaner sits in the garage, unused. When we got this house, the oven had been "ruined" with Easy-Off. By cleaning it in the manner I described, it looks like new. I still hate it, though- very inaccurate temps and Sears (it's a Ken-more-or-less) doesn't want to fool with it any more, since it's from around 1980.
 
At the risk of being ridiculous, pehaps this is one of the questions being asked:

A self-cleaning (pyrolytic) oven cleans by INCINERATING the grease and dirt an-aerobically at approximatly 900*F or higher. In other words in an oxygen-deficit situation.This is similar to the cells in your body that "burn" food, (in limited oxygen)yet it is done without open flames.

Therefore the door on such ovens locks for safely and to keep oxygen from rushing in. I believe the lock-temp is above 600*F as a normal oven hi-temp is 550*F.

IIRC, Electric self-cleaners came out around the early 60's, invented by GE.

Gas self-cleaners were problematic in that the oven burners require primary(mixed-with-the-gas) combustion air and secondary combustion air (freely available air/oxygen) to support the flames. Traditional older gas-stove designs with a broiler drawer under the oven cavity had one gas-burning tube to perform both broil and bake functions by heatign both cavities simultaneously. This proved to be unworkable for the intents of a self-cleaning (pyroytic)gas stove. Besides, how would you self-clean two oven cavities?

I believe it was Caloric that pioneered the first gas self-cleaner. This was accomplished by having only one oven cavity with two burners, top to broil and bottom to bake/roast similar to what is found in an electric oven.

Providing adequate primary coinbustion air was solved by moving the Venturi OUTSIDE of the oven cavity. (The Venturi is a mechanical device that is just past the gas-orifice valve with an air-shutter; it mixes air with the gas. Rushing gas creates a suction that draws in air.) Adequate secondary combustion air is accomplished by having VERY limited air accessible to the burner flames. This is normally now seen in gas self-cleaners in the form of slats or small holes near/under the bake/roast. Of course one no longer sees totally unrestriced air to the burner.

Similalty, a gas stove must have a vent to exhaust posionous byproducts of combustion from the oven cavity to make way for the necessary fresh/clean oxygen for combustion. This is what makes a gas oven HELLISHLY hot; a great deal of heat leaves the oven via this vent. {In an electric oven a one-inch round "token" vent exists basically to keep air pressure inside and outside of the oven equal and to prevent an out-rush of gasses into the users face upon opening the oven door. It may also be to allow smells out to detect if something in the oven has caught fire.

Some people say gas ovens make food more tasty. I say that gas ovens let smells escape to a greater degree enticing the appetite. The sense of taste and smell are highly linked in humans. Witness where the nostrils are. Think also about how food has "no taste" when one has a cold (i.e. stuffed-up nose).

It should be noted that on a gas oven the BTU/H heat input was apporimately 12,000 BTU/h before the advent of the self cleaning oven. Therefore at higher temps it was "on" nearly constantly to maintain the set temp. Due to the need for a higher oven cavity tetmeperature to pyrolytically clean at nearly 1,000*F the newer ovens have oven burners of about 18,000 BTU/h or roughly a 50% increase. These therefore are "OFF" more frequently especially at lower set temps. Bottom line is that a self-cleaner in gas browns and heats entirely differently than a manual-clean oven. I would guess a similar situation happened with electrics as they went from manual-clean to self-clean.

Anyhoo, too much said. Ciao for now.



 
IIRC early gas self-cleaners had a "smoke-eliminator" which was an electric heater placed near the exhaust opening.
I'm thinking this burned-off any remaing volatile/combustible gasses emitted.

In my earl 90's gas-fired Caloric self-cleaner, the self-cleaning cycle would begin with the broiler, then continue with the bake/roast burner. In the two minutes it took for the broiler to shut off and the gas ignitor of the bake burner to heat up and begin burning gas, the oven would sometimes cool sufficiently to revert to the broiler again. It took a few attempts to "jump" the switch-over temperature threshold and move on! I can only guess that this design was due to diffrent heat inputs. Perhaps the boiler was more powerful and intended to heat the oven quicker!

Personally, I would now hold on to any self-cleaner that is not computerized/electronically controlled. They are no longer made to my knowledge.
 

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