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I have a late model 12 cup Cuisinart with a 1-4 cup setting option button. I always use this button, even if making more than 4 cups. Using the 1-4 button heats the water to a higher temperature. This takes longer, but results in stronger taste with water and coffee otherwise constant. Were I to replace it with another drip brewer, I would only consider a machine with a similar option.

I descale with citric acid about every two months (when I remember...). The Cuisinart has a "Clean" cycle that takes about an hour to run---boils up a few cups, then pauses, then resumes boiling for a few cups, then pauses, etc. The goal is to expose the boiler/heating element to near-boiling temperature cleaning solution (vinegar or citric acid) for close to an hour, instead of just a few minutes which would result if you simply run a brew cycle. A way to approximate this action in a machine that lacks a Clean cycle button is to let the machine boil and pump up about half a carafe of cleaning solution, then turn it off for 20 minutes. Then resume the cycle. If you can break it into thirds, with two 20 minute pauses, so much the better. Then in all cases, flush twice with fresh water.
 
Descaling

For the BGNB models, Cuisinart advises to dump the vinegar into the reservoir and do nothing for an hour, then start the machine.  I don't know what waiting an hour is accomplishing, but it worked for me when I had forgotten to tend to this bit of maintenance and one day the machine simply stopped operating before the reservoir was empty.

 

I've found that using filtered water from the fridge has reduced the amount of scaling.  Additionally, the reservoir has its own filter cartridge.  I can easily go six months without having to run vinegar through, and even then there's very little residue (I place a filter in the basket to see the results).

 

I think next time I'll not only wait an hour to start the machine, but will also stop the machine halfway through and let it sit for another 20 minutes.  I also use the 4-cup or less setting when cleaning, as well as for brewing, for reasons I stated above.
 
That long dwell intermittent clean mode makes sense! Not sure why I never thought of it... The standard drip style just spits out all the acid solution as fast as possible and that's that. I have allowed the solution to cool and run it a 2nd time. I have an old infinite switch control in a box I used to use to control the heat of a big soldering iron, I bet I could use that to slow down the brew cycle.

Sometime back I was given a Bunn Pour O Matic that was used for years in 18 grain hard water. I tore it all apart and the amount of lime scale in the tank was astounding. Several inches on the bottom and 1/2" on all the walls. I pulled the tank out and set it in my laundry tub. I energized the heater with a cheater cord and boiled CLR and water in it for hours. Several water changes later it finally looked new again!

That Berkey filter is interesting but it in no way filters out "everything" from the water. Its simply a micro sieve that catches the big stuff (size is relative). It will trap bacteria, viruses and protozoans and make the water safe to drink. It doesn't remove hardness minerals from what I can see. For that you need an ion exchange bed. I'm also curious how they are capturing the dissolved VOC's, my suspicion is that the filter elements have an activated carbon component which will have a finite life. I'm leery of it due to the "quackyness" of the marketing on their webpage. As always multiply the claims of anyone trying to sell you something by .25! I'll stick with my undersink double cartridge activated carbon filter, its way more convenient and likely cheaper per gallon.
 
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