sudsmaster
Well-known member
Picking up this Superba Classic 21 this weekend:
More KA dishwasher fun
- Thread starter sudsmaster
- Start date
sudsmaster
Well-known member
Interior
sudsmaster
Well-known member
Door
sudsmaster
Well-known member
Any of your dishwasher gurus want to list the difference between this machine and the 17A Custom?
Rich, Glenn's old one looks just like that.
Bob, is mine a 22? I think it's a 22. It looks virtually the same, but I think where Rich's has the wider space between the 3rd and 4th button, mine are spaced equally. Or maybe there's one more button. I'm trying to recall the buttons: Soak-n-Scrub, Normal, Light, Quick/Glass, Rinse/Hold, Dry Heat Off, Sani Rinse, Cancel. Yes, eight buttons. Not necessarily in that order. Rich's has seven.
Rich, your Custom 17 and this Superba 22 are quite different.
The Superba has a wash arm under both racks, adjustable pins in the upper rack, upper rack raises/tilts, lower rack has (I think) a removeable section (mine does), silverware basket is different, includes a rinse agent dispenser, has a water heating element in the sump, has a hidden rapid-advance timer, lower wattage drying element. And of course, more cycle selections. The Custom has only Full Cycle and Rinse/Hold, plus no-heat dry option.
The Custom Full Cycle (assuming it's the same as the Imperial 17A) begins with a half-fill line purge and drain. Then wash, rinse, wash, rinse, rinse, dry.
I can't say about the Superba 21, but my 22 doesn't do a purge because of the automatic water heating. Normal always heats the first wash to 140°F. It doesn't do double rinses. Wash, rinse, wash, rinse, dry. There's a 10- to 15-second fill with 1 minute recirculate before both rinses (I think before both, I know before the last) on Normal and Soak-n-Scrub. Light purges only before the final rinse, and doesn't heat the first wash. Soak-n-Scrub is wash, wash, rinse, wash, rinse, dry. It recirculates during the first fill, then pauses to heat to 140°F. Sprays for 1 minute, then pauses to reheat. Sprays for 1 minute, then drains. Refills, reheats to 140°F, wash. The rest same as Normal. Quick/Glass is fun. Begins with a prerinse, but only circulates while filling, then immediately drains. Main wash. Final rinse (no pump purge before). Dry is shortened.
Note that if your machine has the Soak-n-Scrub cycle with two leading washes ... the detergent dispenser has two covered compartments, and the dose for the first wash is simply placed in the depression between the two cups when they're closed. It immediately dumps to the bottom of the tub when the door is closed.
Rich, your Custom 17 and this Superba 22 are quite different.
The Superba has a wash arm under both racks, adjustable pins in the upper rack, upper rack raises/tilts, lower rack has (I think) a removeable section (mine does), silverware basket is different, includes a rinse agent dispenser, has a water heating element in the sump, has a hidden rapid-advance timer, lower wattage drying element. And of course, more cycle selections. The Custom has only Full Cycle and Rinse/Hold, plus no-heat dry option.
The Custom Full Cycle (assuming it's the same as the Imperial 17A) begins with a half-fill line purge and drain. Then wash, rinse, wash, rinse, rinse, dry.
I can't say about the Superba 21, but my 22 doesn't do a purge because of the automatic water heating. Normal always heats the first wash to 140°F. It doesn't do double rinses. Wash, rinse, wash, rinse, dry. There's a 10- to 15-second fill with 1 minute recirculate before both rinses (I think before both, I know before the last) on Normal and Soak-n-Scrub. Light purges only before the final rinse, and doesn't heat the first wash. Soak-n-Scrub is wash, wash, rinse, wash, rinse, dry. It recirculates during the first fill, then pauses to heat to 140°F. Sprays for 1 minute, then pauses to reheat. Sprays for 1 minute, then drains. Refills, reheats to 140°F, wash. The rest same as Normal. Quick/Glass is fun. Begins with a prerinse, but only circulates while filling, then immediately drains. Main wash. Final rinse (no pump purge before). Dry is shortened.
Note that if your machine has the Soak-n-Scrub cycle with two leading washes ... the detergent dispenser has two covered compartments, and the dose for the first wash is simply placed in the depression between the two cups when they're closed. It immediately dumps to the bottom of the tub when the door is closed.
sudsmaster
Well-known member
Thanks.
I forgot to mention: this unit has "Suretemp" heating and "Whisper Quiet".
Does that change anything?
I forgot to mention: this unit has "Suretemp" heating and "Whisper Quiet".
Does that change anything?
Another nice KA find! It will be interesting to see which machine you like more.
SureTemp refers to the automatic 140°F water heating. WhisperQuiet is marketing for the sound insulation.
sudsmaster
Well-known member
Thanks, Glenn.
I asked because in another thread I recall reading that the "Suretemp" only acted in the first wash. But perhaps that was a different model (not 21)?
I asked because in another thread I recall reading that the "Suretemp" only acted in the first wash. But perhaps that was a different model (not 21)?
sudsmaster
Well-known member
PS- Also curious - in the model hierarchy, is the order, from top of the line to bottom of the line, "Superba", "Imperial", "Custom"?
Or is Imperial higher up than Superba?
Or is Imperial higher up than Superba?
Superba is the highest, then Imperial, then Custom.
toggleswitch
Well-known member
Congrats; what a great machine!
When did WP buy the brand-name?
When did WP start corrupting these with a reversing motor to drain the tub?
When did the forced air-drying and the *push-it-out-the-seam between-the-doors* vent stop?
When did WP buy the brand-name?
When did WP start corrupting these with a reversing motor to drain the tub?
When did the forced air-drying and the *push-it-out-the-seam between-the-doors* vent stop?
toggleswitch
Well-known member
Has anyone else noticed that ceramic counter-tops seem to be *de rigeur* in California?
filterflo
New member
In 1979 Kitchenaid also had a "Patrician" model, KDP-19.
It makes me want to cry. I had that same machine when we remodeld our kitchen in 1997. I really miss it. It was working perfectly and when we re-built it into the new cabinets and counters, the motor burned up. I think some saw dust may have gotten into the motor. I did not know of this site or I think we would have had it repaired and not replaced. It could wash anything we put in it, no matter how baked on and was relativly quiet. I wish you luck with it. We are now shopping for a new replacement for the now broken new one
deeptub
Member
Reversing motor
Actually Hobart switched to a reversing motor on the KD-20A models in like 1982-83, which introduced the "triple filtration" system that continued on the KD-21 and KD-22 models. They had another job for the drain impeller while the machine was in "wash" mode, namely to pump water UP through the "soil collection" chamber/microfilter. This necessitated a reversing motor.
I'm pretty sure that WP acquired KA in 1986, and I don't believe it was just the brand, but the assets of Hobart's KA division as well. KitchenAid appliances carried on as usual for a number of years. The WhisperQuiet insulation and the later DURAKOTE nylon coated racks both came along under WP ownership. The KD-23 series used a modified version of WPs PowerClean module, which was a fine pump/filter. The KD-24 (of 1996 or 1997) was the first model that was essentially entirely a Whirlpool machine, albeit with a stainless tub/door liner. Then came the KD-25 that was a modification of the 24--mainly, it added a soil sensor in the higher models. Then came the KD-01, the tall tubs that people either love or loathe. The present KD-02 carries on the love-loathe feelings.
KitchenAid's built-in cooking appliances, which came along when Hobart acquired Chambers in I think the 1970s, continued as essentially Chambers units until the late 1990s when the ovens began to share WPs design (basic design, mind you, the KAs are generally a good bit fancier than the WPs). In 1989, Whirlpool seems to have sold the KA disposer design to Viking, and KA disposers are now made by Emerson. Somewhere in the 1990s WP sold the 18" KA compactor design to Viking, too. Now the only available KA compactor is a 15" of WP origin.
Wow that ended up being a lot more chatty than I had planned.
T.
Actually Hobart switched to a reversing motor on the KD-20A models in like 1982-83, which introduced the "triple filtration" system that continued on the KD-21 and KD-22 models. They had another job for the drain impeller while the machine was in "wash" mode, namely to pump water UP through the "soil collection" chamber/microfilter. This necessitated a reversing motor.
I'm pretty sure that WP acquired KA in 1986, and I don't believe it was just the brand, but the assets of Hobart's KA division as well. KitchenAid appliances carried on as usual for a number of years. The WhisperQuiet insulation and the later DURAKOTE nylon coated racks both came along under WP ownership. The KD-23 series used a modified version of WPs PowerClean module, which was a fine pump/filter. The KD-24 (of 1996 or 1997) was the first model that was essentially entirely a Whirlpool machine, albeit with a stainless tub/door liner. Then came the KD-25 that was a modification of the 24--mainly, it added a soil sensor in the higher models. Then came the KD-01, the tall tubs that people either love or loathe. The present KD-02 carries on the love-loathe feelings.
KitchenAid's built-in cooking appliances, which came along when Hobart acquired Chambers in I think the 1970s, continued as essentially Chambers units until the late 1990s when the ovens began to share WPs design (basic design, mind you, the KAs are generally a good bit fancier than the WPs). In 1989, Whirlpool seems to have sold the KA disposer design to Viking, and KA disposers are now made by Emerson. Somewhere in the 1990s WP sold the 18" KA compactor design to Viking, too. Now the only available KA compactor is a 15" of WP origin.
Wow that ended up being a lot more chatty than I had planned.
T.
deeptub
Member
KUDS21 vs KUDS22
The Superba Classic that Rich is picking up has buttons (left to right) Soak & Scrub Pots/Pans, Normal, Light/China, Rinse Hold, Sani Rinse, Energy Saver No Heat Dry, and Cancel.
And for the record, the indicator lights on both models are (left to right) Heating Water, Wash, Rinse, Dry, Rinsed Only. The Rinsed Only light, which first appeared on the KDS-17, illuminates when the door is unlocked after a Rinse Hold cycle.
The 22-Series Superba added a Quick/Glass button between Light/China and Rinse Hold.
The 22-Series Quick/Glass is actually more like the 21-Series Light/China, which is three fills (not counting pump purges), Rinse/Wash/Rinse/Dry, with shorter cycle segments via the rapid advance motor. The 22 Series Light/China has 4 fills like the Normal cycle (Wash/Rinse/Wash/Rinse/Dry), but also with shorter cycle segments via the rapid advance motor.
My parents have a KUDS21 that they've had since 1988. It's a lovely machine. Theirs is a Superba Monterey. On the 21 series, a Classic had a dark brown control panel with a woodgrain horizontal strip, and the Monterey had a gloss black control panel with a dark gray strip. Oh yeah, and a Superba Selectra had a black control panel with electronic touch controls.
Did I leave anything out? Lord, don't get me started talking about KitchenAids.
T.
The Superba Classic that Rich is picking up has buttons (left to right) Soak & Scrub Pots/Pans, Normal, Light/China, Rinse Hold, Sani Rinse, Energy Saver No Heat Dry, and Cancel.
And for the record, the indicator lights on both models are (left to right) Heating Water, Wash, Rinse, Dry, Rinsed Only. The Rinsed Only light, which first appeared on the KDS-17, illuminates when the door is unlocked after a Rinse Hold cycle.
The 22-Series Superba added a Quick/Glass button between Light/China and Rinse Hold.
The 22-Series Quick/Glass is actually more like the 21-Series Light/China, which is three fills (not counting pump purges), Rinse/Wash/Rinse/Dry, with shorter cycle segments via the rapid advance motor. The 22 Series Light/China has 4 fills like the Normal cycle (Wash/Rinse/Wash/Rinse/Dry), but also with shorter cycle segments via the rapid advance motor.
My parents have a KUDS21 that they've had since 1988. It's a lovely machine. Theirs is a Superba Monterey. On the 21 series, a Classic had a dark brown control panel with a woodgrain horizontal strip, and the Monterey had a gloss black control panel with a dark gray strip. Oh yeah, and a Superba Selectra had a black control panel with electronic touch controls.
Did I leave anything out? Lord, don't get me started talking about KitchenAids.
T.
bobbyderegis
Well-known member
Suds, I have the identical machine! And it rocks!!! An old lady had it installed in her house, but being alone, she never used it. She died several years later and the house was sold. The new folks updated the kitchen, put the appliances on the front lawn to sell. I happened to be driving by, saw it, almost hit a tree, and carted it off for $50. Best 50 bucks I ever spent. I'll never part with this model: or my KDS 20. Hopefully the sumps will hold up. They tend to rust thru after so many years. Lots of luck with yours!
Bobby in Boston
Bobby in Boston
Tom, keep talkin' about KitchenAid. Deep subject 
fnelson487
Well-known member
I had that exact machine!! My favorite next to the KDS-17. I believe that Hobart had perfected the two wash arm machine by then. It was then purchased by WP.
<blockquote>sudsmaster said: I asked because in another thread I recall reading that the "Suretemp" only acted in the first wash. But perhaps that was a different model (not 21)?</blockquote>
My 22 only heats the first wash (or the first two washes for Soak-n-Scrub). And the final rinse if Sani is selected (but it isn't a thermostatic hold, whereas wash heating is.) There's no heating pause for the main wash on any cycle. Interesting that on the Light cycle the timer still goes through the water heating increment but it only lasts for the duration since the thermostat circuit isn't involved. There's no pump circulation, and the 'sizzle' of the heating element can be faintly heard. The bi-metal detergent dispenser is apparently wired through the element circuit, there's a snap toward the end of the pause when it opens. The snap also serves as a signal during an actual heating period that wash is about to begin.
The Heating Water light comes on during the first increment of the main wash (after fill is complete), which is also when the main wash dispenser cup opens.
My 22 only heats the first wash (or the first two washes for Soak-n-Scrub). And the final rinse if Sani is selected (but it isn't a thermostatic hold, whereas wash heating is.) There's no heating pause for the main wash on any cycle. Interesting that on the Light cycle the timer still goes through the water heating increment but it only lasts for the duration since the thermostat circuit isn't involved. There's no pump circulation, and the 'sizzle' of the heating element can be faintly heard. The bi-metal detergent dispenser is apparently wired through the element circuit, there's a snap toward the end of the pause when it opens. The snap also serves as a signal during an actual heating period that wash is about to begin.
The Heating Water light comes on during the first increment of the main wash (after fill is complete), which is also when the main wash dispenser cup opens.
KA 1986-87
Glen,
Back in 1986 or 1987 I purchased a KA Superba. I don't know the series, but is was no comparison to the KA that it replaced(the Superba with the black energy saver button to the side and with the rack that loaded the plates in the middle). Anyway, that 1986-87 DW did such a poor job, that I sent it back to KA(they came and picked it up). I replaced it with a GE2800 which was perfect(and which I aquired another from Ebay last year and love it!). I also love my KA Superba 22 series that I purchased in 1992 and is presently in my kitchen.
Thanks for your insight.
Gary
Glen,
Back in 1986 or 1987 I purchased a KA Superba. I don't know the series, but is was no comparison to the KA that it replaced(the Superba with the black energy saver button to the side and with the rack that loaded the plates in the middle). Anyway, that 1986-87 DW did such a poor job, that I sent it back to KA(they came and picked it up). I replaced it with a GE2800 which was perfect(and which I aquired another from Ebay last year and love it!). I also love my KA Superba 22 series that I purchased in 1992 and is presently in my kitchen.
Thanks for your insight.
Gary
sudsmaster
Well-known member
"Has anyone else noticed that ceramic counter-tops seem to be *de rigeur* in California? "
Oh, they had their heyday about 30 years ago here. My kitchen, which was remodeled in the '70's (I think!) has almost identical white tile with big black grout. It's actually pretty good tile, and the grout is like it's epoxied or sealed or something - the tile gives out before the grout does. From what I've seen while replacing the drop-in cooktop in my kitchen, it's also very well built - the tile rests on a cement slab that's at least 1 inch thick. One of my neighbors in a condo complex built in the 70's also has very similar tiled countertops.
"De riguer" for countertops in California now is granite slab counter-tops, or maybe Corian or other synthetic stone surfacing. Has been that way for a while now. Don't know if I'd like granite for a counter, though. Stains and scratches too easily. But it can be beautiful.
Oh, they had their heyday about 30 years ago here. My kitchen, which was remodeled in the '70's (I think!) has almost identical white tile with big black grout. It's actually pretty good tile, and the grout is like it's epoxied or sealed or something - the tile gives out before the grout does. From what I've seen while replacing the drop-in cooktop in my kitchen, it's also very well built - the tile rests on a cement slab that's at least 1 inch thick. One of my neighbors in a condo complex built in the 70's also has very similar tiled countertops.
"De riguer" for countertops in California now is granite slab counter-tops, or maybe Corian or other synthetic stone surfacing. Has been that way for a while now. Don't know if I'd like granite for a counter, though. Stains and scratches too easily. But it can be beautiful.
sudsmaster
Well-known member
Thanks to all for the wonderful information about the KA/Hobart dishwasher series.
I'm set to pick the Superba 21 this weekend. It's getting kind of exciting
I'm set to pick the Superba 21 this weekend. It's getting kind of exciting
deeptub
Member
Well since Bob says to keep talking and since I failed to address this one:
"When did the forced air-drying and the *push-it-out-the-seam between-the-doors* vent stop?"
Forced air drying last appeared on the KD-23 series. The KD-24 just used the heating element just like a WP, with the vent at the top of the door. The KA models did have a wax motor operated damper on the vent so it opened only during drying. I think this is common practice among mid-high end machines now.
Whirlpool did cheapen lesser model KAs shortly after their takeover. KAs historically have had a completely submerged water heater in the bottom of the sump, and a drying heater outside the tub in the fan duct. When KA came out with water heating for washes, even the BOL Custom had a heater in the sump. After the WP acquisition, they switched to a low-wattage water/dry heater that was up out of the sump (like most machines have) on the Imperial 21 and Custom 21 models. This allowed them to switch to a plastic drying fan housing.
Incidentally, the 21 series was the last to have Imperial and Custom designations on their control panels, though the "I" and "C" continued in the model numbers. Superba carried on through some of the 01 series.
And of course Hobart wasn't perfect. The KD-19 "Energy Saver IV" machines were generally loathed by all. They heated multiple segments of the wash and the final rinse to 155 degrees. "Now every cycle is a Sani Cycle" they touted. Then, because of the higher rinse temp, they felt heat was not needing for drying, so there was just a blower (using the plastic blower parts that WP later used to cheapen the lesser 21s) that pulsed on and off through a really long dry period. They were an overreaction to the energy crises electricity-wise, but were still water hogs, they took forever to run, and there was no way to deselect any of this water heating. They were quickly (two years I think) replaced by the fine KD-20 models which reintroduced heated drying, had one water heating period (two in the Soak and Scrub cycle), and used significantly less water.
I'm finished now.
T.
"When did the forced air-drying and the *push-it-out-the-seam between-the-doors* vent stop?"
Forced air drying last appeared on the KD-23 series. The KD-24 just used the heating element just like a WP, with the vent at the top of the door. The KA models did have a wax motor operated damper on the vent so it opened only during drying. I think this is common practice among mid-high end machines now.
Whirlpool did cheapen lesser model KAs shortly after their takeover. KAs historically have had a completely submerged water heater in the bottom of the sump, and a drying heater outside the tub in the fan duct. When KA came out with water heating for washes, even the BOL Custom had a heater in the sump. After the WP acquisition, they switched to a low-wattage water/dry heater that was up out of the sump (like most machines have) on the Imperial 21 and Custom 21 models. This allowed them to switch to a plastic drying fan housing.
Incidentally, the 21 series was the last to have Imperial and Custom designations on their control panels, though the "I" and "C" continued in the model numbers. Superba carried on through some of the 01 series.
And of course Hobart wasn't perfect. The KD-19 "Energy Saver IV" machines were generally loathed by all. They heated multiple segments of the wash and the final rinse to 155 degrees. "Now every cycle is a Sani Cycle" they touted. Then, because of the higher rinse temp, they felt heat was not needing for drying, so there was just a blower (using the plastic blower parts that WP later used to cheapen the lesser 21s) that pulsed on and off through a really long dry period. They were an overreaction to the energy crises electricity-wise, but were still water hogs, they took forever to run, and there was no way to deselect any of this water heating. They were quickly (two years I think) replaced by the fine KD-20 models which reintroduced heated drying, had one water heating period (two in the Soak and Scrub cycle), and used significantly less water.
I'm finished now.
T.
sudsmaster
Well-known member
Well, I just picked up the Superba 21. The exterior is in pretty good shape, although the control panel has a small chunk of the thin brown plastic laminate missing from the lower left hand corner, and it looks like the aluminum underneath has oxidized, forming a white powder.
The interior tub is in great shape. But the racks are not in top condition. The lower one is missing a wheel, and the upper one has broken tines, and, more seriously, a broken left hand support. But it's all fixable.
The insulation is interesting. It's a kind of thick organic felt (about 3/8" thick) covered by thick reflective foil. It's all in great shape, and I lucked out because after weeks of rain today is bright and sunny, so the insulation didn't get wet on the trip home (40 miles each way).
This one does have a heating element in the sump, and a metal heater/blower underneath the rear rh corner. The frame is not as robust as that on the 17A, in my opinion. I think it could be easy to retrofit the 17A to be a portable, but not so sure about the 21.
The filter is in good shape, but the very fine plastic mesh screen at the top is all torn up, mostly missing. I figure I could probably renew it with either fine stainless or even no-see-um netting. Stainless would probably be better.
Comparatively speaking, I prefer the construction on the 17A. It's simpler and seems stronger, with fewer parts to fail. The one big drawback of the 17A is the lack of an internal water heater... but that may be just my opinion. Where I'm planning on putting the washer is close to a kitchen sink, and relatively close to the water heater, so I think it could get a fully hot wash charge at the start. Except I lowered my water heater temp to 120F in order to save gas this winter (rebate from utility company expected).
My inclination is to install the 17A in the patio kitchen, once I get the cabinetry, plumbing, and electrical sufficiently modified. Or... I could turn it into a portable, in which case it would be ready for action probably fairly quickly. Always nice to have options.
Anyway, I'm going to take a nap. It feels like my cold isn't completely gone yet.
The interior tub is in great shape. But the racks are not in top condition. The lower one is missing a wheel, and the upper one has broken tines, and, more seriously, a broken left hand support. But it's all fixable.
The insulation is interesting. It's a kind of thick organic felt (about 3/8" thick) covered by thick reflective foil. It's all in great shape, and I lucked out because after weeks of rain today is bright and sunny, so the insulation didn't get wet on the trip home (40 miles each way).
This one does have a heating element in the sump, and a metal heater/blower underneath the rear rh corner. The frame is not as robust as that on the 17A, in my opinion. I think it could be easy to retrofit the 17A to be a portable, but not so sure about the 21.
The filter is in good shape, but the very fine plastic mesh screen at the top is all torn up, mostly missing. I figure I could probably renew it with either fine stainless or even no-see-um netting. Stainless would probably be better.
Comparatively speaking, I prefer the construction on the 17A. It's simpler and seems stronger, with fewer parts to fail. The one big drawback of the 17A is the lack of an internal water heater... but that may be just my opinion. Where I'm planning on putting the washer is close to a kitchen sink, and relatively close to the water heater, so I think it could get a fully hot wash charge at the start. Except I lowered my water heater temp to 120F in order to save gas this winter (rebate from utility company expected).
My inclination is to install the 17A in the patio kitchen, once I get the cabinetry, plumbing, and electrical sufficiently modified. Or... I could turn it into a portable, in which case it would be ready for action probably fairly quickly. Always nice to have options.
Anyway, I'm going to take a nap. It feels like my cold isn't completely gone yet.
deeptub
Member
Hi, Suds.
Congrats on the Superba 21. The machine will run *ok* with the torn mesh, but it will perform its best if you repair it--especially considering that the machine has one rinse.
The mesh on the 21 series did degrade and tear with time. The 22 series had a much much finer and more durable mesh, and that pump top is the replacement for the 21 series as well. If I were you, I would consider replacing the pump top. It's a little pricey, but it will give you the best performance possible.
See link below.
T.
http://www.repairclinic.com/0081.asp?RccPartID=2033&SeqID=2&Chg=2
Congrats on the Superba 21. The machine will run *ok* with the torn mesh, but it will perform its best if you repair it--especially considering that the machine has one rinse.
The mesh on the 21 series did degrade and tear with time. The 22 series had a much much finer and more durable mesh, and that pump top is the replacement for the 21 series as well. If I were you, I would consider replacing the pump top. It's a little pricey, but it will give you the best performance possible.
See link below.
T.
http://www.repairclinic.com/0081.asp?RccPartID=2033&SeqID=2&Chg=2
sudsmaster
Well-known member
Thanks, Deeptub.
I am less than fully enthusiastic about this particular unit because it looks to me like it's been thrashed. The racks are basically toast. The upper spray arm doesn't rotate freely in its little cage, it rubs on the bottom. The upper rack has broken off the attachmed to the height adjuster on the left, and there are numerous prongs missing. The sump looks ok, no rust there, but the door looks a bit sprung - it seems to hang lower than it should when fully open. I'm thinking this DW saw some very hard use, maybe abuse. I'm thinking "rental", lol.
It will take some work/effort/$$$ to get it going again, and I'm really thinking that for my purposes (occasional use in patio kitchen) the 17A will be a better choice. Either way, I've pretty much settled on where it's going to go. I'm going to build a little counter for it beside the main countertop; all I have to do is to move the fridge over a couple of feet. I'll put some sort of countertop material on top, so it can be used as extra counter space.
Here's where it will go:
I am less than fully enthusiastic about this particular unit because it looks to me like it's been thrashed. The racks are basically toast. The upper spray arm doesn't rotate freely in its little cage, it rubs on the bottom. The upper rack has broken off the attachmed to the height adjuster on the left, and there are numerous prongs missing. The sump looks ok, no rust there, but the door looks a bit sprung - it seems to hang lower than it should when fully open. I'm thinking this DW saw some very hard use, maybe abuse. I'm thinking "rental", lol.
It will take some work/effort/$$$ to get it going again, and I'm really thinking that for my purposes (occasional use in patio kitchen) the 17A will be a better choice. Either way, I've pretty much settled on where it's going to go. I'm going to build a little counter for it beside the main countertop; all I have to do is to move the fridge over a couple of feet. I'll put some sort of countertop material on top, so it can be used as extra counter space.
Here's where it will go:
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