Motor Control Board Fried!

[phillymatt53]

Quick update (since @phillymatt53 asked in another thread):


The washer is still misbehaving. I tried installing a new motor, but as John predicted, it made no difference.

However, I did discover that the washer spins just fine when plugged into an outlet closer to the main panel, where there's virtually no voltage drop. But when it’s plugged into an outlet that's far from the panel (over 100 feet away in the casita) it starts acting up.

I tested voltage under load (using a hairdryer). The laundry room outlet only drops from 120V to about 118V. But the casita outlet drops all the way from 120V down to 108V or lower.

So rather than going straight to the (expensive) option of installing a new sub-panel in the casita (which I'd love to do eventually) I'm going to talk to John about modifying the clutch to allow a bit more slip and see if that helps.

Unless anyone has other suggestions for dealing with the voltage drop? Most of my other appliances in the casita don't seem to mind it much, but this washer is picky. Either way, I’ll be getting an estimate for electrical upgrades and preparing myself for the $$$.

Mark

I would suggest to replace the romex wiring with a slightly heavier gauge (12 gauge) Romex between the casida receptacle and the house breaker box, and make sure the connections are nice and tight.
Modifying the machine is not the answer, you need to address the root problem.

 

[combo52]

Motors starting problems on a direct drive washer

I would imagine there’s already 12 gauge wire going out there. you may have to change to 10 gauge copper, or better yet put in a subpanel with number six or larger aluminum feeding with subpanel.

More practical solution would be to modify the clutch for a little bit more slippage on start, 108 V. at start is still plenty of power to safely run a washing machine.

Easiest way to get it to work for now is just to shoot a little penetrating oil into the clutch. You don’t have to disassemble anything.

You can also disassemble the whole thing and put a lighter spring in that was used on the compact models.

John L

 

[Marky_Mark]

Thanks for the replies! I'll be back there in a few weeks and will try the easiest solution -- giving the clutch a small dose of penetrating oil. Thanks for the tip, John!

The current circuit should be 12-gauge wire, as it's a 20-amp circuit.

I did consider re-running just that circuit with thicker wire, like 10-gauge. But then I started drooling over the idea of adding a subpanel out there, so I could have an endless number of 120V 20A circuits, with all machines plugged into individual circuits. I could even include 240V 15A and 240V 30A outlets for any appliances that might need them.

Then I thought about the (somewhat unnecessary) cost...

Mark

 

[Chetlaham]

Was a washer plugged into this receptacle before?

The AC circuit resistance of 500 feet of #12 copper romex is about 1.7 ohms at 30*C. At 100 feet that is 0.34 ohms. VD=IR gives 10 x 0.34 = 3.4 volts.

With a DM on the voltage setting observe the voltage on the outlet after the motor drops off its start winding.

You can play around with this calculator if need be. The calculator assumes 75*C so it tends to give a bit more voltage drop than the actual operating temperature of the wire:

https://www.calculator.net/voltage-...nceunit=feet&amperes=10&x=Calculate&ctype=nec


Unless the run is ridiculously long (500+ feet) or the voltage at the main panel is exceptionally toward the low end voltage drop is typically not an issue encountered in residential settings.

My money is on the machine itself or less likely a loose connection in the circuit between the outlet and panel and not that the wiring itself is undersized.

I tested voltage under load (using a hairdryer). The laundry room outlet only drops from 120V to about 118V. But the casita outlet drops all the way from 120V down to 108V or lower.

Is that with the start winding engaged? Before the centrifugal switch opens on a split phase or capacitor start motor it will draw several times its running load amps, so more voltage drop for the larger current is a given.

Judging by the videos and the registered KW the motor keeps dropping back onto its start winding. Something be it electrical or mechanical is preventing the motor from accelerating.

 

[pstehle]

Check to see if the drop is due to wire size and length of run, or possibly a failing circuit breaker or connection... A hair dryer shouldn't pull a 120v line down to 108v unless it's either served by a very small conductor, or the run is rather long. I had a window A/C issue in Mexico during 4th of July weekend, the compressor would run about 5 minutes, then slow and stall... checked the line voltage, and it was about 96 volts. But that was at the far end of a single run of #14 THHN, serving about 10 lights and ceiling fans, plus one or two 5000btu A/Cs. Just too much to ask of the cable. Even the commercial beer coolers in the bar were only getting about 108, but that was enough to keep them going. Every condo & hotel room in town, every RV spot was full, and it was 95 degrees, with about 90% RH that weekend. I bet you could have seen the heat coming off the high tension wires coming into town with an IR camera!