Must I dry clean?

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Dec 21, 2009
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New Egypt, New Jersey
I bought a Tommy Bahama 100% linen shirt. The tag says to dry clean only.
I have other TB shirts that are silk and I use Woolite and the gentle cycle in my front loader, no problem. Should I wash the linen shirt or dry clean it? I don't want to ruin a $120 shirt. Please advise and thank you in advance.
 
Dry Cleaning

With modern detergents and washing machines I don't believe in dry-clean-only garments anymore; regardless of what the tag says (only exception of acrylic-and-woolen layered suits). Linen is one of the most sturdy natural fabric and technically, if uncolored, may even be boil-washed and ironed on the highest setting. However it is prone to wrinkling, and some manufacturers apply a perm-press-style coating; or the dye used wasn't the most durable one. Mind you linen is naturally beige; any other color of garment, even white, indicates a dye used.
Cool wash with low spin speed shouldn't harm or cause excessive wrinkling. Last rinse with a bit of vinegar should set the color in and remove all residual traces of detergent.
 
Forgot about damp ironing! I also always run my linens on a rinse cycle with a cup or so of boiled starch. Makes it ridiculously easy to iron(with plenty of steam though) even if the item dried fully. Prevents wrinkling from happening too fast, too.
 
I'm with Washingpowdernyc. Linen is probably the longest lasting natural fiber commonly used for clothing. I can't imagine any reason dry cleaning would be necessary.

My ex's grandmother actually made her own linen bedsheets as part of her dowry. She literally started with cutting the plants by hand, pulling the fibres, beating and bleaching them by hand and weaving the fibres into cloth. They're now 70+ years old and show no wear or tear and all. IIRC, they're machine washed in hot water with a splash of old-fashioned chlorine bleach then machine dried on cotton/sturdy cycle. They're taking out of the dryer slightly damp (drier than damp-dry) and and sprayed once VERY lightly with starch and given a VERY quick once over with an iron. How quick? Spray starching and ironing for a queen sized sheet takes a minute at most. Fully dry from the iron, they're folded and put away

My instinct would be to wash them whatever way you want, thinking only about dye fade and wrinkling when you pick your cycle.

Jim
 
I advise you to return the shirt to the store pronto. You'll spend way more than 120 bucks on that shirt if you dryclean it every time it needs cleaning over the life of the garment.

The truth is that very few fibers *have* to be dry cleaned. So, most of the fabrics/garments that have that sign share one or two problems: unstable dies, which is rare nowadays because fiber-reactive dyes are cheap and plentiful, or the fabrics were not prewashed/preshrunk before garment construction.

While one may want to forgive such things for a wool suit, for example, it's a big glaring warning sign for a simple linen shirt.

If the fabric is thin, or see-thru, or has an open weave at all, it will probably shrink with washing, even if cold water and gentle cycle are used.

I can't imagine a shirt that costs $120 that has to be babied, much less dry cleaned. It should have fabrics that are prewashed and preshrunk, every seam should be perfect, every detail top notch. Don't confuse the price you paid with quality -- look at it, a quality shirt should be easy to identify. Don't just pay whatever price they asked and think "oh well, they probably deserve it", I've seen plenty of high-priced jeans pants that were of worse quality than a pair of Levi's for 20 bucks -- maybe the very rich people can discard their clothes after wearing it once, but I'm not fooled by labels, designer's name or price, I can actually sew for myself if I need or want to.

Don't just blindly allow yourself to be taken to the cleaners, pun intended. Refuse to buy dry-clean only garments.

Cheers,
-- Paulo.[this post was last edited: 3/8/2015-20:17]
 
All of my Galliano shirts and t-shirts claim to be dry-clean only. Same applies to a couple of silk scarves, woolens and even blue jeans.
I think manufacturers at one point had to consider the fact most households don't have the slightest idea how to utilize their washers, choose proper detergents etc. It could cause a gentler garment to get damaged which may lead to an unsatisfied customer who "thought it was washable".
 
While I could agree in theory that a "dry-clean only" or "professional dry-clean only" label *might* be necessary for silk or wool, which cannot tolerate most enzymes, it's a clear "cover your ass" move for jeans.

Any high-quality blue jeans that even remotely wants to earn the high price of the garment will have been prewashed to the point of preshrinking completely *before* garment construction.

Why is it that a $20 pair of Levi's can be washed in hot water and dried on high heat unscathed and a $500 pair of jeans can't and needs to be dry cleaned? What good practice, necessary steps have been skipped and what corners have been cut to render such a sturdy fabric "delicate" to the point of not being capable of being laundered at home?

Time was, that any sturdy fabrics like linen, cotton and jeans, would sport a laundry label saying just "hot wash, tumble dry high" and that's the end of it. They have not become delicate all of a sudden. What they are doing is buying the fabric, cutting and constructing the garments without prewashing or even without washing after construction -- that may save them money during manufacturing, but now *you* risk a garment shrinking at home the first time you wash is if you counted on a garment you tried in the store and it fit just fine but now you can't wash it.

I say screw that. It's bad enough for a piece of garment that cost just a few bucks, but there's absolutely no way that is acceptable for high-priced labels. If they *want* to be worth their high-price, they should use the best materials, construction and practices available.

The label does *not* make up for the difference between $20 and $500 or more that you pay for the garment -- don't be fooled, people who know anything about design and/or sewing will be laughing at you, 'cuz you could also had bought a much cheaper garment and slapped a five-dollar label saying the same thing and gotten a higher quality garment.

Do you want to do something about it? *Call* your favorite brands and ask why in hell they didn't sew the garments right to the point of needing a "dry clean only" label. Don't back out -- when they come out with silly arguments like "oh, we couldn't count on people knowing how to launder the items", point out to them that in U.S. the law says clearly that a garment has to have a *permanent* label that explains clearly at least *one* safe method for cleaning the garment and you are not buying dry-clean only garments. If they want to say something like "hot wash and tumble dry *or* dry clean" or some other appropriate wet washing method, you're OK with it, but if they mean it that linen, cotton or jeans need to be dry cleaned, they lost a client. If just a handful of people do that, you'll see changes in just a few months.

And, in case you did not know, dry cleaning is not really "delicate": they put the garments in a washer that's loaded with dry-clean fluid instead of water, and then it goes to a dryer. They are not lovingly hand washed and then laid flat to dry.

Anybody that thinks that a dry-clean only garment means quality has no idea of what quality means.

My dad once nearly bought a pair of Hugo Boss jeans for over $500, but came to me when he saw the "professional dry clean only" label when we were at the store. We turned the pants inside out and you wouldn't believe the bad seams, the faulty finishes (even the overlocking looked like it was made by someone who had never run an overlocker/serger before). The zipper was also low quality. The other items were all the same "level" of quality, it wasn't just one that escaped inspection either.

I know an awful lot of rich to extremely rich people, and *they* are not afraid of wearing Levi's or Wrangler's, so if it's good enough for people who are often on TV being interviewed, it's more than good enough for me. When the other brands start building quality again, I may take a look around, but my husband and I work hard for our money and will not be giving it away to people that think that just because they have a label to stick on clothes that the garment will be among my clothes, no sir.

I like my garments to look like what they cost -- if they look like they cost $20 bucks, they should not be charging $500 for them and conversely, if they want to get paid $500 the garment should be flawless, fit perfectly and be easy to machine wash-and-dry at home.

As for labels, forget it. My friends know they can count on me no matter what I'm wearing, and I have acquaintances that wear expensive labels that can only think "me, me, me!" and "how does that affect me?" among other things. If all they can see is the labels instead of the heart inside, they deserve their lack of true friends. If all your friends see is if you are keeping up with fashion, find better friends, because even billionaires are not spending that much money on their clothes.

Cheers,
-- Paulo.
 
Paulo, I agree with you completely, but I think we're entering an entirely different subject - quality of the piece varies greatly regardless of the price, unfortunately. Plenty of my h&m shirts hold up as well as some much more expensive items, or sometimes even better.
All I'm saying is if a piece of clothing goes for more than, say $50, the manufacturer doesn't want the item returned or, even worse, lose his 'reputation' - and slapping a dry-clean-only label is the easiest way to avoid it. Even if said cleaning damaged the fabric, the customer would most probably blame the cleaners rather than a $100 t-shirt. It's also easy to assume if they sold a shirt for $100, the customer probably could afford a $2.50 dry cleaning, or whatever it is. If the shirt was $20 - maybe not necessarily. It's hideous, and I've been laughing at it all for the longest; it is what it is though, and I still haven't used dry cleaners more than twice.
In Europe I could find a range of detergents developed for different types of fabric; here it seems they're all the same, only more or less effective.
Finding a detergent that wouldn't fade darks took me a long time, let alone an enzyme-free liquid that wouldn't damage wool or silk with caustic pH.
Look at how an average person does laundry - throws everything together, somehow sorted if lucky, adds whatever detergent they fancy, and runs it on Normal. Did you notice just a couple years ago one could find woolens with "machine washable, cold water" label - there's a reason they recently disappeared.
Linen might be sturdy, but it *is* heavily prone to wrinkling. Spinning it on a regular cycle and then running through a dryer on regular heat setting could cause quite an issue. It's also naturally beige and even if dyed/bleached white, will slowly go back to its natural color. Improper laundering can cause it to happen too early.
I'm positive though that washing even Levi's in hot water with an oxygenated detergent will inevitably cause fading sooner or later.
 
Standard Liablity For Years

In the USA has been if care instructions are followed by either owner or laundry/dry cleaner and damage occurs, it is the fault of the garment manufacturer. OTOH if said instructions are not followed and same occurs then it is the fault of whomever did the laundering/cleaning.

There are several places commercial laundries/dry cleaners can turn to (IFI for instance) that can determine the cause of damage. Their decisions regarding liability are often held up in court.

Yes, garment makers often slap a "dry clean only" label on things rather than print out detailed laundering information. That and or trust the average consumer to know what they are doing. However the above still applies; if you disregard said care instructions then the outcome entirely rest upon yourself.

It is also not worth going down that rabbit hole comparing linen of old to what is on offer today. Quality of modern linen fiber by and large is *not* the same as that of fifty or more years ago. In fact you cannot even find many of the same linen threads of 100 years ago.

Between world wars and other upheavals not to mention the dethroning of linen for cotton in much of Europe (once upon a time "linens" meant just that, everything from undergarments to bed/table linens were made from the stuff), the quality of linen declined. That and production methods changed to lessen costs (to bring linen more in line with cheaper cotton), and many strains of linen plants were allowed to go extinct.

Yes, the linen from the above woman who grew her own and so forth probably would withstand repeated harsh launderings. But so did many others back then; linen was produced, woven and run up into textiles that would withstand hard use and cleaning. This included the infamous boil washings so common all over Europe.

Have linen sheets that range from 100 years old (or older) to fifty and some recent. Even the stuff from the 1930's or 1950's beats the modern hands down.
 
Another Word About Linen

Modern domestic irons or ironers and even some commercial equipment do not reach proper temperatures to process pure linen. So manufactures just say "dry clean" because they feel a modern housewife or whomever does not have access to proper equipment to turn crumpled linen smooth after laundering.

Unlike cotton linen can take higher heat before scorching. Back in the days when everything was ironed electric irons and mangles had three or two settings "Cotton" "Heavy Cotton" and "Linen". As most of us here know today you get "Cotton/Linen" on today's ironers and even rotary irons such as the Miele. When you add the requirement linen needs to be moist, much more so than cotton to iron properly using an iron that is too cool just adds to the misery.

Here are safe accepted ironing temps:

* Linen: 230 °C (445 °F)
* Triacetate: 200 °C (390 °F)
* Cotton: 204 °C (400 °F)
* Viscose: 190 °C (375 °F)
* Wool: 148 °C (300 °F)
* Polyester: 148 °C (300 °F)
* Silk: 148 °C (300 °F)
* Acetate: 143 °C (290 °F)
* Acrylic: 135 °C (275 °F)
* Lycra/Spandex: 135 °C (275 °F)
* Nylon 6.6: 135 °C (275 °F)

You can see Linen can take a higher temp than Cotton (depending upon one's ironing skills you could push close to 450F and get away with it), which on most irons is set to around 370F.

Found a copy of Miele rotary iron service manual and the highest setting IIRC is around 372F. One of the reasons have always pulled away from the trigger when about to buy a Miele ironer (have come across some great deals), is that it does not do anything my vintage Frigidaire mangle does aside from fold down. My Ironrite, Frigidaire and even Pfaff ironers get much hotter than the Miele so one does not have to pass things through more than once.

On the steam boiler/generator iron side of things some domestic products reach the proper minimum pressure (around 40 psi) to do linen properly. Have a huge small commercial steam boiler and iron that will blast the wrinkles out of dry linen. The finish isn't as smooth and glossy as damp linen ironed dry with a hot and heavy iron but will suffice.
 
Government Intervention

Sometime in the late 70's, early 80's the US government stepped in and made mfgs of irons reduce the heat on the settings of their irons as a safety measure. This was about the time safety cutoff switches were included in irons. If the iron isn't used for say 5 min, the power turns off. At the time a lot of fires were attributed to irons being left on after use.

I remember I had an old GE Iron that my mother gave me, probably from the late 50's/early 60's and it would iron just about everything very easily. It could also scorch white shirts if you weren't careful. The replacement I bought in 1982 looked a lot like it. But when I got it home, it didn't get nearly as hot as the original.
And if you didn't keep it moving, it'd turn off on you too.
 
Can you really be sure...

...that they'll give the shirt a perc bath or will just wash it, too? I don't know about the U.S. but here some fabrics wear the new "wet clean" label which is, IMHO, just washing in a professional way...
 

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