repairguy
Well-known member
Yes that’s correct.
My Amazing 1974 Lady Kenmore Washer
- Thread starter Marky_Mark
- Start date
Help Support :
Ok great, thanks! I’ll check the drain hose isn’t kinked and I’ll make sure it is the filter that is leaking. And then it looks like I may well have a little project on my hands to remove the inner wash basket and replace the filter. I just have a couple of questions, so that I can prepare for this, as I’ve never even removed an agitator before, let alone a tub!
What kind of tool should I use to remove the agitator nut/screw?
Should I heat up the agitator with a hairdryer and then try to pull it out?
What kind of tool is required when undoing the nut that holds the filter in it place?
All hints and tips greatly appreciated.
What kind of tool should I use to remove the agitator nut/screw?
Should I heat up the agitator with a hairdryer and then try to pull it out?
What kind of tool is required when undoing the nut that holds the filter in it place?
All hints and tips greatly appreciated.
repairguy
Well-known member
Use a small flat screwdriver in the slot to lift up and remove the agitator cap.
Use a large flat screwdriver or 7/16 socket to remove agitator bolt.
Place your fingers underneath the agitator skirt on either side and lift up to see if you are the luckiest person in the world and it comes right out.
Use a putty knife to gently slide in the front between the top and the cabinet a couple of inches from each side and release the clips that hold the top of the machine down to the cabinet secure the lid and triple dispenser lid and lift the top up. Having the washer close to a wall makes it easy to rest the top against the wall.
Remove the clamp attaching the inlet hose to the tub cover. Remove 4 clips(if all are still there) to lift up and remove the tub cover.
Now you need a tub nut removal tool to remove the tub nut that secures the wash basket. If the basket lifts right out( again if you’re the luckiest person in the world) you will see the filter nut in the back left area towards the bottom on the wall of the tub. There was a tool to remove this but I can usually get them off by using a small flat screwdriver stuck in one of the round holes and striking with a hammer to undo in the counter clockwise direction.
It’s easiest to remove the 2 hose clamps furthest from the lint filter. Install the two hoses in the same position on the new filter. If you get this far congratulations it’s time to reverse the process and put the machine back together.
Use a large flat screwdriver or 7/16 socket to remove agitator bolt.
Place your fingers underneath the agitator skirt on either side and lift up to see if you are the luckiest person in the world and it comes right out.
Use a putty knife to gently slide in the front between the top and the cabinet a couple of inches from each side and release the clips that hold the top of the machine down to the cabinet secure the lid and triple dispenser lid and lift the top up. Having the washer close to a wall makes it easy to rest the top against the wall.
Remove the clamp attaching the inlet hose to the tub cover. Remove 4 clips(if all are still there) to lift up and remove the tub cover.
Now you need a tub nut removal tool to remove the tub nut that secures the wash basket. If the basket lifts right out( again if you’re the luckiest person in the world) you will see the filter nut in the back left area towards the bottom on the wall of the tub. There was a tool to remove this but I can usually get them off by using a small flat screwdriver stuck in one of the round holes and striking with a hammer to undo in the counter clockwise direction.
It’s easiest to remove the 2 hose clamps furthest from the lint filter. Install the two hoses in the same position on the new filter. If you get this far congratulations it’s time to reverse the process and put the machine back together.
Melvin, thank you so much for this detailed explanation — it really helps.
Just one final thing to check — is this the appropriate tub nut removal tool to remove the inner basket?
Just one final thing to check — is this the appropriate tub nut removal tool to remove the inner basket?
repairguy
Well-known member
Yes that should be the one.
I forgot to mention when using a screwdriver to remove the filter nut be careful not to miss with the hammer or allow the screwdriver to come out of position because you will chip porcelain on the tub causing a string of encouraging words to spew from your mouth. Same goes for using a hammer to strike the tool removing the nut to remove the basket.
I forgot to mention when using a screwdriver to remove the filter nut be careful not to miss with the hammer or allow the screwdriver to come out of position because you will chip porcelain on the tub causing a string of encouraging words to spew from your mouth. Same goes for using a hammer to strike the tool removing the nut to remove the basket.
Thank you so much, Melvin. Yes I have a feeling that I will be uttering many “encouraging words” along the way ha ha.
Sorry my former machine is causing so much trouble but I love all the attention it's getting! Keep up the awesome work, Mark. The machine is a beaut!
Hey Todd. I'm actually looking forward to the challenge of opening up the machine and replacing the filter (if that's what's causing the leak). It will be quite a learning curve for me and I will post updates in this thread when I start work on the machine in a couple of weeks' time.
There is one mystery that I was hoping someone could shed some light on regarding two of the wires that come from the wiring block connector in the lid. One looks purple and the other appears to be red with stripes. They end up down near the motor and they are connected together with a wire nut. Does anyone know what they are for?
The lid switch has been bypassed but I can see the two wires joined together near the lid switch, so I don't think it's that.
There is one mystery that I was hoping someone could shed some light on regarding two of the wires that come from the wiring block connector in the lid. One looks purple and the other appears to be red with stripes. They end up down near the motor and they are connected together with a wire nut. Does anyone know what they are for?
The lid switch has been bypassed but I can see the two wires joined together near the lid switch, so I don't think it's that.
I believe that this machine has an off-balance switch and buzzer but I don't know where they are located. I was wondering if these wires might be for the OOB switch, which may have been bypassed.
repairguy
Well-known member
You are correct. Those are for the out of balance switch that has been bypassed.
On another note if you plan to keep this washer going for many years to come I would get one of those pumps to keep on hand even if you don’t need it now.
On another note if you plan to keep this washer going for many years to come I would get one of those pumps to keep on hand even if you don’t need it now.
Thanks, Melvin. Good idea -- I'll get a replacement pump. Yes I'd like to restore this machine to the best of my (limited!) ability and keep it going into the future.
While there is a lot to be said for "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" I do wonder if I should also attempt some other bits of preventative maintenance. When I start to disassemble the machine, I'll post photos. It would be good to get comments on the condition of the components and whether or not I should take the opportunity to replace/fix anything else.
Jon did a great job of documenting his restoration but I don't know if I could/should take things that far!
Mark
While there is a lot to be said for "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" I do wonder if I should also attempt some other bits of preventative maintenance. When I start to disassemble the machine, I'll post photos. It would be good to get comments on the condition of the components and whether or not I should take the opportunity to replace/fix anything else.
Jon did a great job of documenting his restoration but I don't know if I could/should take things that far!
Mark
I'm the culprit who bypassed both the lid and out-of-balance switches. The lid switch for obvious reasons, but the out-of-balance switch would often engage for no reason and get stuck, so I disconnected it. Hope that helps.
Thanks, Todd! That does clear up the mystery LOL. And thanks for bypassing them -- I definitely want to see it spin. The first thing I did when I got my SQ set was bypass the lid switch.
bpetersxx
Well-known member
reply 17
It looks like the clips are coming off the filter
And with the pressure in the filter it will leak
And yes it needs to be replaced as I an m not sure the clips can be put back on if they are bent
I may be wrong
It looks like the clips are coming off the filter
And with the pressure in the filter it will leak
And yes it needs to be replaced as I an m not sure the clips can be put back on if they are bent
I may be wrong
Oh dear. We seem to have fallen at the first hurdle. The top of the bolt sheared off as I was unscrewing it.
I don't know how to proceed from here!
I don't know how to proceed from here!
Broken brass, agitator stud
Hi Mark because the brass is softer than the steel it’s very easy to drill out the brass and then use a tap to cut the threads clean so you don’t even have to replace the agitator shaft, had this happen many times over the years.
John
Hi Mark because the brass is softer than the steel it’s very easy to drill out the brass and then use a tap to cut the threads clean so you don’t even have to replace the agitator shaft, had this happen many times over the years.
John
