My Fridge died - here's the new one

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mark_wpduet

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Joined
Dec 29, 2008
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Location
Lexington KY
Saturday morning I opened my freezer to get the frozen blueberries and noticed everything was thawing. I freaked out and called appliance repair - he came out and said compressor was shot. The fridge was a whirlpool side x side and it was 12 and a half yrs old. It had been repaired twice and ice maker replaced once and that was DIY. The 2 repairs weren't expensive. Once it was a capacitor or something and another time it was a relay I think.

I was so bummed out about having to buy a new one but here's the one I bought. I'm sure the longevity of this one will be even worse. One thing it has a REALLY small dent on the door so they gave me 100 dollars off. I think it was $1100 not on sale, it was $999 on sale plus 10% off, plus another 10% off for the dent. So low $800s.

The door was uneven from the factory and the installer couldn't get it even and he said they do not like to do this but he had to lay it on its back which he did carefully and then fixed the uneven door. He said not to plug it in for an hour to let it rest back into place. I ended up cleaning the inside all over and even had to get the vacuum cleaner to part of it because there were these little pieces of packing material.. Later, I plugged it in. I have thermometers in and in 2 and a half hours it reached 38 in the fridge and 0 in the freezer and started dropping ice after about 2 hours. I was shocked because it says it will take 24 hours for the fridge to cool enough to put food in and start making ice.

It says to discard the first 3 batches of ice. I assume by batch of ice it means when the ice maker drops ice, that's one batch, right? I hope they don't mean a full bin of ice is a batch.

I'm not hopeful it will last 10 years. Who knows!!? On the bright side, the food loss was minimal because there were things that needed to be tossed anyway.

There's zero info on coil cleaning. I guess they hope customers won't do that. I always did with my other one. I blew out the coils with my rainbow vacuum once per year.

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The GE fridge I got a couple of years ago (before the Haier takeover, anyway) said something in the owner's manual about how cleaning the coils was not necessary but you "may" do it by inserting an appliance brush in a couple of holes behind the detachable grille.

The explanation that came to mind is that they don't expect it to last long enough for dirty coils to matter!
 
"...they don't expect it to last long enough..."

I would say they don't want it to last long enough!  They want to sell more refrigerators!

 

Never cleaning the coils is what killed my sister's previous fridge.  She has cats, and had that fridge for several years, so you can imagine how hard it was working.

 

Her replacement Maytag Wide-by-Side fridge came with the advisory that coil cleaning wasn't necessary, but I told her to do it anyway.  Our own 2009 KA fridge supposedly doesn't need coil cleaning, but I still do it at least once a year. 
 
nice fridge there.....

can we have an interior shot or two?....

we had trouble getting our doors to line up as well.....the freezer door just mounts in place, no adjustment available, but the fridge side has the adjustment, but once it was raised to match the freezer side, it was tight against the top hinge, and wouldn't close freely....so we had to place washers under the top hinge to give it clearance...

the only thing that has a pro and con for me is the icemaker mounted into the door, good place for it, yet the capacity is no where near what my last fridge had....for one or two people, maybe not so bad, but for a family, were constantly running out of ice...

I wish you loads of luck with yours....
 
NeverClean

GE's never clean coil theory stems from the fact the air flow used to be drawn in at the front and pass over the coil underneath, and exhaust out the back. Now it's drawn in at the back, and exhausts out the front. This would reduce the amount of dirt and animal hair pulled in and lodged in the coil, slowing down the coil getting dirty, but it eventually will at least collect dust and need cleaning. The only way to do this effectively is to roll the fridge out from the wall, remove the access panel and clean it from behind, something I'm sure the manufacturer prefers you don't do, so they just tell you it's not necessary.
 
I clean the jelly roll

condenser coil on our GE with the vac and it's never very dusty at all. I also vacuum under the fridge bi weekly also though with a crevice extension tool.
 
The freezer door is intentionally slightly out

Because when it's loaded, it then lines up. That's what Sears told my parents when they bought a new fridge about 20 years ago.

I thought it was hooey and I still think it's hooey.

As to not cleaning coils, that's just plain stupid. Of course they need to be cleaned regularly. Especially if they're at floor level and draw in air with a fan.

But, yes - modern fridges are designed to fail quickly and I'd say the appliance makers have done a brilliant job of design.
 
Inside

It hasn't quite been 24 hours yet since it's been on. It's making ice pretty steadily. I have fridge/freezer thermometers. Inside the fridge (thermometer connected to middle door shelf, the temp reads between 40/41. The freezer reads between -2 and 2 above. The settings is 5 bars for freezer, 5 for fridge. Less bars is coldest, most bars increases temp. I have it on 2 bars. The fridge should be mid to upper 30s. Oh, another thing: the shelves are absolutely NOT adjustable. It doesn't seem to run a lot, there's a very tight seal around the doors, when it does run it's not horribly loud. I may just keep it on 1 bar to get coldest setting for fridge.

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could it be possible

that the manufactures instructions are wrong about 5 bars being least cold and 1 bar being most cold? I was standing there, doors closed, hadn't been opened, Fridge NOT running and I increased bars and when I got to bar # 4, the compressor kicked on. Maybe it was just a coincidence but I'm going to leave it on 4 bars (3 bars are factory default) to see if it lowers temps more. It specifically says that it's the opposite. I know on the Lowes.com FAQ/Q&A, people were confused by this.
 
OK

I could be wrong on this, but those instructions that 1 bar is coldest I think may be WRONG!!! 5 bars is coldest I think. Moving it to 4 for freezer and fridge instead of 2 bars brought the fridge temp to 37 and the compressor is running more. On 2 bars, I noticed it didn't run as much as it's running now.

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longevity of this one will be even worse

Time will tell on the longevity of these Whirlpool side by sides.

One thing for sure the plastic shelving is extra flimsy, I've seen them sag in the middle with average loading. No trim cover on the top door hinges, just expose metal. The Led lighting is awful, things can get pretty dark in there with full shelves.

People have also complained about the water dispenser.

I've wouldn't pay more the $800 out the door.

Meanwhile our 20 cu. ft GE side by side is going on 25 years without issue, just one lower door hinge cam.
 
 
Give it at least 24 hrs to stabilize after making a temp change before changing again.  The fresh food section in particular takes longer to settle after an adjustment since it gets less airflow.
 
It's been on 25 hours now

and the first 22 hours or so it was on 2 bars (because I thought lower was colder) for about 3 hours it's been on 4 bars and temp in fridge is -7 degrees F and Fridge is 36F..so I'm leaving it on 4. One thing I notice it makes ice super fast but the cubes are smaller. I feel comfortable putting food in it now that the temps are right.
 
That is really poor wording in the user guide.  With refrigerators and freezers, they're dealing with terms that can be interpreted in two distinctly opposite ways.  Advising to adjust the control to a "lower" setting leaves it up to the user to figure out if that means more bars or fewer bars, since "lower" might be referring to cabinet temperature, or the amount of cooling desired.  The same goes for the advice to adjust to a "higher" setting.  Higher cooling or higher cabinet temperature?

 

 
 

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