My Habitat ReStore find, KitchenAid KDS-20, March 2010.

[rp2813]

Switch Restoration

I think it's great that you shared your restoration expertise here. It will be archived for those who may need to refer to it in the future.

Lemishine is an additive that can be used to boost cleaning power and make glassware sparkle. You can also use it to have your dishwasher clean itself by dumping some in and running the machine through a normal wash cycle. It's not meant to be used on a regular basis, as that could cause permanent damage to certain components over time.

I've been told Target carries Lemishine, but I haven't seen it at my local store. The container is similar to the plastic ones that Comet cleanser comes in. None of my local grocery chains carry it. If you don't see it at your nearest Target, you can probably ask them to order it for you.

Don't be fooled by Finish "Glass Magic" because it's not the same thing. Lemishine contains phosphates, the Finish stuff does not.

 

[westie2]

For the Lemonshine you can try Walmart. Ours carries it so I am sure yours will too.

As for the switch you could also try the silcone spray or you might be able to find the turner spray at Radio Shack that was for the old TV turners to loosen them up and clean. This did work well. I just don't know if they have that anymore. The silcone spray works great and does not gunk up either.

Here is a link to the Radio Shack tuner spray they still have in stock.

Shop Now RadioShack Products | RadioShack Official Website

Start exploring all RadioShack original products from it's official website, powering technology, then, now and always. Shop now durable & high quality products.

www.radioshack.com

 

[varicyclevoice]

regarding Finish Glass Magic

Beautiful job on the KDS-20!! It looks awesome! In regards to the comment about Finish Glass Magic...I just bought some last week and according to the box, it contains no more than 21% of phosphates....so I believe you can buy this product with phosphates.

Have they changed that and phasing this out too?

 

[combo52]

STICKING PROGRAM SWITCHES

I often have to lubricate program switches on KA DW, WD-40 will help unstick them but it is not a good long term lubricant I like spray electronic cleaners and then a good spray of silicone lube. There generally two small holes on the back of these switches, one on either end which makes it very easy to add cleaners and lubricants.

 

[qsd-dan]

Fantastic restoration and write-up, Brian!!

It's best to use powdered detergent in these old machines because they were not made to use the liquid type, it tends to all run out in the first cycle and I've heard that liquid detergent is hard on the gasket underneath the dispenser cup.

X2!!

Powder or tablets ONLY! I finally phased most of my liquid detergent out. I was purging it through the left cup even though most of it was probably running out during the initial heating phase.

As for WD-40, it's not a lubricant, it's a Water Displacement (Hence WD). When used on metal, it will actually accelerate rust in the long run. It's best to use an electrical contact cleaner followed by a silicone spray lubricant.

A few weeks back, curiosity got the best of me and I dug out a spare KDS-19 switch and took it apart. Here are a few pics.

Carefully remove the rear panel. It should take a good 10 minutes to accomplish this alone. The fiber panel is extremely delicate. GO SLOWLY!

 

[qsd-dan]

A wide pic showing the 3 wafers and contacts.

 

[qsd-dan]

Up close and personal

 

[beekeyknee]

qsd-dan,
Wow, I was scared to do that. You have to remove a spring first? Then is there any thing else you have to remove before the back comes off? I was afraid something might fly out and I wouldn't know how to put it back, if I could find it. If you get it open spray down the switch with contact cleaner, then go over it with silicone spray? Combo 52 said "There are two holes in the ends of the switches that make it very easy to add cleaners and lubricants." What holds the back of the switch on except for the spring and the lugs bent at different positions? If a person had a cleaner and lube that is liquid enough to run through the entire switch, wouldn't it be better to use that, instead of trying to take the switch apart? Don't get me wrong. It is fun to see the inside of these switches.

When I was a dj, I would often use cleaners and lubricants on mixing boards to take static out of switches and faders.

Techspray makes an excellent switch cleaner called Blue Shower II Spray and Caig makes a good spray lubricant. They both have web sites. It seems to me that a person would be able to use these with out the disasembly process. They are both very runny and would soak the switch well. The Blue Shower II Spray is the best followed by the Caig lubricants. They have information on their webs sites. They are available at electronic part stores and mail order sites around the country. Some of the sprays are volatile and have special ground shipping only.

I know what you're thinking. Why didn't he do this in the first place... Cost and no air compressor in Columbia. Check out the Techspray and Caig websites and tell me what you think. Thanks for letting us see the inside of the switch.
Dan.
p.s. Techspray's rubber rejuvenator works great on old rubber parts that have gone hard, especially if you scuff them up a little with emery paper and heat them up in the fluid a bit for a day or two on low heat. Sounds weird, but it works.

[this post was last edited: 12/19/2010-09:43]

 

[combo52]

STICKING KA PROGRAM SWITCHES

It is neat to see the inside of the switch but if you want to use it again and avoid a serious short and possible fire I would not try to disassemble this part. Each of the male terminals are crimped to hold the switch back in place after it is assembled it would be very hard to duplicate this assembly in the field. This is a good reason why you really need to know the source of the information being given on an internet forum like this as often the people giving out advice have little real repair experience.

 

[qsd-dan]

You have to remove a spring first?

Yep, it comes right off with needle nose pliers.

Then is there any thing else you have to remove before the back comes off?

Some of the terminals are bent in various directions. I took several pics at different angles before I straightened them.

I was afraid something might fly out and I wouldn't know how to put it back, if I could find it.

Nothing will shoot out. It's just 3 wafers with lots of contacts.

What holds the back of the switch on except for the spring and the lugs bent at different positions?

The spring doesn't hold the back on; it's the terminals.

If a person had a cleaner and lube that is liquid enough to run through the entire switch, wouldn't it be better to use that, instead of trying to take the switch apart?

Depends on the issue. If the switch is just sticky, then spraying lube through the hole may work, although you'll probably have to damn near drown the switch and shake the hell out of it. If one or more of the contacts are burned up or have a lot of build-up on it/them, removing the back and filing the contacts with a 90 degree file is the only fix.

I found a couple of contacts in this switch that looked questionable. I filed down the questionable ones and cleaned the rest with a toothbrush soaked in electrical contact cleaner. I let it dry and then blew it out well with compressed air. Lightly sprayed the wafers with silicone spray and slapped it back together.

Ironically enough, my buddy called and said the switches in his KDS-19 that I found him a few months back were a little sticky at times when selecting different cycles. I told him I fooled around with a spare switch and I was willing to swap switches with him. He took me up on the offer, installed the switch and has ran each cycle several times now with no issues. All is well and he's a happy camper!

 

[combo52]

STICKING KA PROGRAM SWITCHES

Program switches on KA DW seldom have contact problems because unlike the timer once a button is pressed to start the machine the contacts stay in the same position for the complete cycle. Another thing to keep in mind is the high current contacts in a switch or timer often have a lot of Sterling Silver in them and as a result they are very dark almost black in color. Even if the switch is brand new out of box they will look like this, Silver oxide is an excellent conductor and no attempt should be made to clean these contacts, you will likely do more harm than good and the tarnished color will be back in a month. These PS are very important to the proper operation of your machine and if it is a daily driver that intend to keep and use it is a good idea to obtain an extra PS and timer as thier many different ones used on the different models. But again I would never take a PS apart these parts were never intended to be disassembled in the field and the resulting shorts and fire could do a lot of damage to the wiring of your DW.

 

[beekeyknee]

New SS Panels

Christmas present for my Mom to doll up her D/W.

 

[rp2813]

Wow, those stainless panels are beautiful! I can't wait to see what my ISE looks like with them!

How does your mom like the look?

 

[beekeyknee]

She seemed to like them pretty well. I think she liked them more after a friend of hers commented on how nice they looked.

 

[beekeyknee]

Post Pics

Ralph,
Be sure to post some pics of yours when you get it done.

 

[rp2813]

I will definitely post pix of the Supreme when it's done.

Today I tried to order the stainless panels from the same parts place I got them a couple of years ago and they advised that nothing came up for either the ISE model or the corresponding KA model. I'll have to try some of the other local parts houses now.

 

[beekeyknee]

Panels

I got mine off ebay. They came from somewhere in New York. They have all different sizes on there, so measure closely. They're really heavy gauge. Had to take out one set of panels and the door is still heavier. I probably could have taken both sets out. The measurements were 1/8th off on the width, but they fit anyway.

 

[rp2813]

I'll try ebay if nobody local can order them.

The door is indeed much heavier with the SS panels. I didn't remove the colored ones on my 21 and the heaviness was very pronounced.

I'll remove all panels on the ISE before installing the SS ones.

That's one thing I like about the Thermador. It has adjustable spring tension depending on what's being used for the front panels. Mine originally had a wood panel to match cabinets, so when I installed the stainless look panels instead, I was able to adjust the springs accordingly. Too bad KA didn't offer that same feature. Even as-is with the black panel, the ISE door drops down with more force than the Therma-door.

 

[magic clean]

Ralph

if memory serves correctly , you can adjust the door springs on the KitchenAid.

Have a close look at the stamped steel door spring mounting brackets that are affixed to each side of tank frame support with sheet metal screws. There should be a series of screw holes punched in the metal frame that permit repositioning of the bracket to increase or decrease spring tension.

You'll want to have both brackets mounted in the same position for good balance.

Hope this is the case with your machine.

lp

 

[rp2813]

Thanks for the info LP.

I noticed extra holes during the door change-out last weekend. I'll take another look and will make the necessary adjustment once the stainless panels are installed.