My Hobart U|M-4 from Philadelphia has ARRIVED!

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OMG

I just love seeing those vintage parts still in the original plastic. That machine in the right hands should be running 200 years from now with all those parts. Fantastic and good luck. Please show us pics when it's complete.
 
You will soon be enjoying the rhythm of the Big Blue Wash Arm sweeping walls of water around the tank and the woosh as the end of the wash arm passes the door. Hope you have a door gasket somwhere in your stuff. I loved sitting at lunch counters to watch and listen to the Hobarts. In my dream diner there would be a big screen with a video of the UM-4 with internal lighting and a see-through door that would play whenever the machine was on. Imagine how the noise level would drop to a murmur as everyone grooved on the cycle and got swept along by that soothing, almost hypnotic beat of the six moving walls of water. The only downside is that it might send a few diners dashing to the "facilities" for their own gravity drain periods and a few patrons calling out, "Run it again," when it stopped.
 
Look, Ma! No gaskets

The UM did NOT have gaskets as Ed expertly pointed out! They used the metal channels seal the door and tank. This type of sealing method is still used today in undercounter machines like that as they seal the machine but still allow air to pass thru so the air pressure inside the tank chamber is normalized when the machine runs.In reality, they are actually adjustable to create a tighter seal but if they are in good shape, you will probably never have to replace them.
What did wear out was the permagum sealer used around the screws that secured the channel in place on the tank side.On the outside of the tank, they used a lead washer and a non stainless nylock nut so you may have to change them to something better. The lead washers helped seal the holes as well. The door channel is just screwed in place and is stationary.

You have enough parts to rebuild it forever or maybe even create a new one!
I see you have the new style timers as well, part number should be 277321. It helps to have the proper new style wiring harnesses that go with it but can be made up as you go along from the wiring diagram included in the kit.
But with any luck, the microswitch type already on the machine will last another 50 years!
Good Luck with it. You will love it for sure! Now look around for a kd10-14 lower rack and you will really be able to get alot more dishware into it per cycle!
 
Gotta Love Steve

He's the Guy. !!!
I'm still waiting for the info on my Mint UM from a Restaurant down the Road. It's still in service and They are waiting for the replacement machine which we all know is going to be a regret !!!
 
Continuing education

Thanks, I never saw one without the door gasket, but I haven't seen one open since the early 70s so that might explain it. And they don't equalize pressure under the door like the older machines; that's a big difference, too. There is a Harbor Freight Store near me in Laurel, MD in what used to be a dime store. There is an abandoned lunch counter with an undercounter Hobart. The shoping center dates from the 60s. It's where George Wallace was shot while campaigning.
 
Like I said...

UM's never had a gasket. The WM series had a door gasket just like the domestic Kitchenaids from the first ones up thru the 17 series. The UM was what they based the first Kitchenaids on. But they added the gasket to the door on the domestics. The gasket actually eliminated the problem with the permagum and lead washers wearing away and causing leaks around the screws that secured the inner baffle to the tank wall. When the WM 5 series debuted, it had a door gasket secured to the tank and not the door like domestic machines have now. It was also secured to the tanks in a different manner than the 18 thru 23 series had.
The replacement for the WM5 are the LX series and the SR24. The LX is a completely different design and the SR24 series is basically a WM5 pump system(ala kd18 thru 20) in a reworked tank assembly and both of them use the baffle type of seals again on the doors. Hope this helps.
 
VERY COOL!!

I never knew there was a single rack dishwasher?!
That is so cool!

Wish I could see inside to see how it washes the dishes. There's probably no chance for loading errors!

Very cool!
😃😊
 
Installing a Window

My next project is to install a window...I am sure there will be abundance of plexiglass in the near future.

Fortunately, I have a spare door for the UM-4 and looking at ways to do a cut-out.
 
WOWZERS...

"Installing a window"

No way...
That is going to be so AWESOME!
I loves windows!

Can't wait to see when it's all done and the window is installed!
😃🙂😉😊
 
Robert,

What is the cycle like for your machine? Did it fill and drain just like the home type DW. At Dunkin I would see them load it up, slide in the rack and dump a scoop of detergent on the door and close and turn on. Right out of high school in the mid 70's, I washed dishes while going to college. It was a smaller upscale restaurant and we had a Jackson single rack DW. The cycle was about a 4-5 wash with Eco-Labs Impact detergent and a 2 minute 160 degree rinse with Jet-Dry. Those suckers dried within seconds when you pulled out the rack. I just retired from working in the Disney Resorts Front Desk, I noticed that in the main housekeeping rooms there were Hobart single rack DW's. I looked inside one and looks like they have not used them for years. Hopefully they will end up at property control for sale. I would jump at the chance to buy one.
 
First wash uses less water

The dishwasher run cycle is only about 200 seconds (3’ 20”):

0’00” Solenoid drain valve is engaged, motor is running, and water starts running:

0’20” Water turns off
1’45” Motor pauses
1’55” Drain solenoid disengages and opens the drain valve (gravity drain)
2’25” Motor starts
2’30” Drain solenoid engages and water starts filling
2’60” Water turns off (filling takes longer than the wash portion)
3’15” Water valve is activated again (filling of water)
3’20” Motor stop and drain valve disengage (gravity drain)

A couple of interesting observations:

- the first wash uses less water than the rinse,
- the RPM of the cast iron wash arm is slower than the rinse, and
- the drain valve is deactivated when the power to the dishwasher is unplugged (the water dumps - gravity drain).

However , the drain valve doesn’t deactivate when the door opens, and just before the completion of the rinse, the water valve is activated for about a short 5 seconds (like an overflow rinse in a washer).

 

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