Thanks to one of your posts, I just picked up this old beauty from a very nice gentleman near Trenton, NJ:
My new KDS-16!!!
- Thread starter bajaespuma
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I've always wanted one of the 16 series and John LeFever said that there were certain parts (memory?) to this machine that were better than those used in the 17 series. The machine was very clean on the outside and what clinched the deal for me was that it came with a custom panel frame attached. Outside of the tank and the vital organs all looked quite new beneath a 40 year old veneer of dust:
Oh well, back to Home Depot for the third time.
The inside is another matter. Although the tank and the racks look OK for its age, everything is coated with a thick layer of weird greenish scale. I will enjoy, as usual, the cleaning challenge but I'm worried about the effects of the scale on the machine. When I can find the g(*)#E_PE#_+#J#EJ!!! correct adapter for the inlet solenoid, I'll be able to test the machine and will let you know.
The inside is another matter. Although the tank and the racks look OK for its age, everything is coated with a thick layer of weird greenish scale. I will enjoy, as usual, the cleaning challenge but I'm worried about the effects of the scale on the machine. When I can find the g(*)#E_PE#_+#J#EJ!!! correct adapter for the inlet solenoid, I'll be able to test the machine and will let you know.
stevet
Well-known member
Green with envy!
I am sure that you will get many more years of good life out of that classic machine.
It looks like the previous owner had a lime and copper problem in his water supply. I would say to try and use one of the usual dishwasher cleaners first and if that doesnt work, see if you can find some Oxalic acid crystals and add aboput a tablespoon to the main wash and let it then go thru an other full cycle to wash out the residual acid and the lime scale. That may do the trick. If it gets connected to a soft water supply in the future, you wont see that buildup again.
Those rust spots on the right side were often seen on Kitchenaids and I have had the same on subsequent models. Just seems to be something that comes thru and can be removed from time to time with soft scrub or cerambrite.
I am sure that you will get many more years of good life out of that classic machine.
It looks like the previous owner had a lime and copper problem in his water supply. I would say to try and use one of the usual dishwasher cleaners first and if that doesnt work, see if you can find some Oxalic acid crystals and add aboput a tablespoon to the main wash and let it then go thru an other full cycle to wash out the residual acid and the lime scale. That may do the trick. If it gets connected to a soft water supply in the future, you wont see that buildup again.
Those rust spots on the right side were often seen on Kitchenaids and I have had the same on subsequent models. Just seems to be something that comes thru and can be removed from time to time with soft scrub or cerambrite.
Congraudlations Ken on your new KDS-16 DW
Yes of all the single wash arm KAs [ and really all the real KA DWs ] this one has always been my favorite. The rust stains on the right wall and rear of the tank are not unique to KA and it is not a defect in KAs porcelain. These marks are caused by users washing steel cookie sheets etc in the DW and leaving a rust mark where they touched the tank and as Steve suggested they come off easily but they will never come back unless you wash steel or cast iron cookware in the DW LOL.
The green copper stains may slowly come off on there own as you start using the DW, I have most all the parts that you will ever need for this DW if you need anything. John.
Yes of all the single wash arm KAs [ and really all the real KA DWs ] this one has always been my favorite. The rust stains on the right wall and rear of the tank are not unique to KA and it is not a defect in KAs porcelain. These marks are caused by users washing steel cookie sheets etc in the DW and leaving a rust mark where they touched the tank and as Steve suggested they come off easily but they will never come back unless you wash steel or cast iron cookware in the DW LOL.
The green copper stains may slowly come off on there own as you start using the DW, I have most all the parts that you will ever need for this DW if you need anything. John.
Congratulations, Ken. I see from the front that your machine is new enough to have the Soak cycle for Heavy Soil instead of just an extra water change. When these machines were introduced, enzymes were all the rage for laundry and the first enzymes were designed for protein stains like blood. Smart people thought of making a dishwaser enzyme soak product and that was why KA designed the soak cycle to just sit after the product was sprayed on the dishes. Now, it is up to date since DW detergents rely more on enzymes than the ingredients in the older formulas. So you can load up crusty pans, add the new enzyme detergent for the soak and an older style chlorinated detergent for the main wash (both with some STPP from the Chemistry Store) and have great cleaning. Using STPP will, probably, over time wash away the green scale. It will be slower than if you use the citric acid, however.
Thanks for the info.
Do any of you guys know about what year this is from? Any literature?
Do any of you guys know about what year this is from? Any literature?
aldspinboy
Well-known member
Hey Ken very nice !
Im sure the tub will clean up well.
I got the same model a few years ago.
My buddy is a contractor and they had this machine in a home and was going to chuk it out.
And replaced it with a modern Frigadare model lol.
The lady complaned that it was to noisey,and
i tried to tell her it was a great classic.
She loved they way it washed and fast cycle times.
But wanted a new look in the kitchen.
So she said when my bud pulls it out to take it.
She wanted someone to enjoy it.
So it came to my place weeks later, he dropped it off
in the back of my home.
Here it is in stainless.
Its resting at this time.
Im sure the tub will clean up well.
I got the same model a few years ago.
My buddy is a contractor and they had this machine in a home and was going to chuk it out.
And replaced it with a modern Frigadare model lol.
The lady complaned that it was to noisey,and
i tried to tell her it was a great classic.
She loved they way it washed and fast cycle times.
But wanted a new look in the kitchen.
So she said when my bud pulls it out to take it.
She wanted someone to enjoy it.
So it came to my place weeks later, he dropped it off
in the back of my home.
Here it is in stainless.
Its resting at this time.
aldspinboy
Well-known member
Pic 2. Interior.
I took this on my phone no internet on my pc yet.
Phones or hard to post lol but your worth it.
I hope the best for you on this machine.
Darren k
I took this on my phone no internet on my pc yet.
Phones or hard to post lol but your worth it.
I hope the best for you on this machine.
Darren k
aldspinboy
Well-known member
Ken I would like to know the year as well..
And if John or Steve could elaberate on the
Mechanics thats different or they like on this
Model then other models thanks.
Darren k
And if John or Steve could elaberate on the
Mechanics thats different or they like on this
Model then other models thanks.
Darren k
KDS-16 DWs
Were made from some time in 1968-1970 they were one of the shorter runs for KA. Darren yours looks to be in really good condition, you should service it and put it back into use for yourself or someone else. The minimum a DW like these needs is to disassemble and inspect [ probably replace the main pump seal and drain impeller ] the main pump and to rebuild or replace the inlet valve [ no it doesn't work to take it apart and just clean it, unless you replace the rubber valve diaphragms ]. It is also important to be sure that the overfill protection switch works and and inspect and replace any bad hoses and a drop of oil on both bearings for the little blower motor on the drying unit.
If these areas are in good condition you could get quite a few years of use out of one of these DWs, no it won't last 30 more years of once a day use, but then few of these DWs got that much use in their first life.
Were made from some time in 1968-1970 they were one of the shorter runs for KA. Darren yours looks to be in really good condition, you should service it and put it back into use for yourself or someone else. The minimum a DW like these needs is to disassemble and inspect [ probably replace the main pump seal and drain impeller ] the main pump and to rebuild or replace the inlet valve [ no it doesn't work to take it apart and just clean it, unless you replace the rubber valve diaphragms ]. It is also important to be sure that the overfill protection switch works and and inspect and replace any bad hoses and a drop of oil on both bearings for the little blower motor on the drying unit.
If these areas are in good condition you could get quite a few years of use out of one of these DWs, no it won't last 30 more years of once a day use, but then few of these DWs got that much use in their first life.
stevet
Well-known member
Age is relative!
This machine is from the early production run as it has the 15 series style Air gap on the left side of the tank. The air gap was a molded rubber affair that had a copper tube soldered to a metal bracket attached on the top of the air gap and attached to the tank behind that metal plate above the inlet hole. They were replaced with the all plastic air gap with the black rubber hose attached to it. The original Hobart commercial WM series was based on this design and had the same air gaps before replacing them with the all plastic one and it also had a single push button on the door that looked just like the buttons on your machine. That was replaced with an instant start setup which the door handle would actuate and reset the timer to the start position. I actually ran across one like that about 6 or 7 years ago in a small private school which still worked perfectly after nearly 40 years of service. All original with the push button setup!
John has offered some good advice for making sure it works well before installing it. You cant really go wrong checking all those areas out.
This machine is from the early production run as it has the 15 series style Air gap on the left side of the tank. The air gap was a molded rubber affair that had a copper tube soldered to a metal bracket attached on the top of the air gap and attached to the tank behind that metal plate above the inlet hole. They were replaced with the all plastic air gap with the black rubber hose attached to it. The original Hobart commercial WM series was based on this design and had the same air gaps before replacing them with the all plastic one and it also had a single push button on the door that looked just like the buttons on your machine. That was replaced with an instant start setup which the door handle would actuate and reset the timer to the start position. I actually ran across one like that about 6 or 7 years ago in a small private school which still worked perfectly after nearly 40 years of service. All original with the push button setup!
John has offered some good advice for making sure it works well before installing it. You cant really go wrong checking all those areas out.
The "16" series of KitchenAid diswashers were made until May 1971.
We got out KDI-16 a month or so before this. It's now living with Pete (Rollermatic).
We got out KDI-16 a month or so before this. It's now living with Pete (Rollermatic).
MaytagA710
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2011
- Messages
- 422
Brilliant looking machine!! I really like the "Daily Use" and "Party" cycle options. I hope you get years of enjoyment out of this machine, it is a very neat machine! I am also green with envy, there are no KAs for sale in Nova Scotia.
Love the wood-panel front on this KA, Ken! What a great find!!
Daily cycles vs. Party cycles
OK, so if I have a party I can only wash lightly, warm the vercocked plates or just cancel the whole thing. I'd love to have a conversation with the "Mary Margaret McMertz" Consumer Affairs Executive who came up with the cycle categories for Hobart.
I'm happy to report that after hosing the whole thing down, removing the panels and frames (which, unfortunately, were scarred with a lot of rust) I plugged the thing in and it purred to life, did a purge and then responded immediately to the CANCEL button. It's a little amusing/interesting to me that there is a cycle dial/cam down below the tank where the old 14 and 14 series had a knob. The little half-moon metal stem that would have held the white plastic knob is even there and it turns rapid advance speed when you hit the CANCEL button (on the PARTY side of the control panel, BTW).
So I went out this afternoon and bought some CLR and some Oxalic Acid crystals and I'm armed with all my clean up gear. Please say a prayer that I don't do what I usually do with some of these vintage machines which is to go hog wild and clean them so well I damage them. I'd like to get that soylent green scale off of it, but I'd rather have a machine that works. Thank the Lord that there were no mice-in-residence as there were with the two Asko's I brought home with the same haul. I can still smell mouse shookum in my front yard.
And here's the best thing that happened; don't you love it when the glue that holds the Electrical Schematic to the inside of the tank door is so old that it just releases its 45 year old hold with a small crackle and no damage (so I can lay it flat on the glass of my scanner)?
OK, so if I have a party I can only wash lightly, warm the vercocked plates or just cancel the whole thing. I'd love to have a conversation with the "Mary Margaret McMertz" Consumer Affairs Executive who came up with the cycle categories for Hobart.
I'm happy to report that after hosing the whole thing down, removing the panels and frames (which, unfortunately, were scarred with a lot of rust) I plugged the thing in and it purred to life, did a purge and then responded immediately to the CANCEL button. It's a little amusing/interesting to me that there is a cycle dial/cam down below the tank where the old 14 and 14 series had a knob. The little half-moon metal stem that would have held the white plastic knob is even there and it turns rapid advance speed when you hit the CANCEL button (on the PARTY side of the control panel, BTW).
So I went out this afternoon and bought some CLR and some Oxalic Acid crystals and I'm armed with all my clean up gear. Please say a prayer that I don't do what I usually do with some of these vintage machines which is to go hog wild and clean them so well I damage them. I'd like to get that soylent green scale off of it, but I'd rather have a machine that works. Thank the Lord that there were no mice-in-residence as there were with the two Asko's I brought home with the same haul. I can still smell mouse shookum in my front yard.
And here's the best thing that happened; don't you love it when the glue that holds the Electrical Schematic to the inside of the tank door is so old that it just releases its 45 year old hold with a small crackle and no damage (so I can lay it flat on the glass of my scanner)?
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