My new Maytag 806 set
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danemodsandy
Well-known member
Hinges:
With the dryer door open, just lift the entire door upward. It should come off easily.
To reinstall it, position the door on the hinge pins and guide it downward into place.
A paint store, such as a local Sherwin-Williams, should be able to match the paint so that you can have some on hand for touch-up purposes. You'll end up buying way more than you'll need, of course, but it should be a dead match, not a "universal" match such as used to be sold as touch-up paint when Harvest was a current color. To have them match it, take that dryer door in to the store.
Judging from what's in your dryer drum, I would strongly suggest that you go inside the dryer and perform a thorough de-linting. You may also find that there are issues with the felt seal; they're common to this generation of Halo from Hell dryers (nothing wrong with them, just forty years of wear). The seal wears and permits lint to pass through, and also allows metal objects such as coins, etc., to contact the heating element, shorting it out. Use the Search feature here to search on "Halo of Heat felt."
With the dryer door open, just lift the entire door upward. It should come off easily.
To reinstall it, position the door on the hinge pins and guide it downward into place.
A paint store, such as a local Sherwin-Williams, should be able to match the paint so that you can have some on hand for touch-up purposes. You'll end up buying way more than you'll need, of course, but it should be a dead match, not a "universal" match such as used to be sold as touch-up paint when Harvest was a current color. To have them match it, take that dryer door in to the store.
Judging from what's in your dryer drum, I would strongly suggest that you go inside the dryer and perform a thorough de-linting. You may also find that there are issues with the felt seal; they're common to this generation of Halo from Hell dryers (nothing wrong with them, just forty years of wear). The seal wears and permits lint to pass through, and also allows metal objects such as coins, etc., to contact the heating element, shorting it out. Use the Search feature here to search on "Halo of Heat felt."
door open, just lift
Thanks danemodsandy for explaining how that hinge works. I do want to take the door and get the paint color matched so it will look good.
Also, do you know where to get the dryer seal? Is it difficult to install?
Thanks danemodsandy for explaining how that hinge works. I do want to take the door and get the paint color matched so it will look good.
Also, do you know where to get the dryer seal? Is it difficult to install?
danemodsandy
Well-known member
If You're Talking....
About the drum seal (the felt), it's still pretty easy to get; RepairClinic (www.repairclinic.com) carries it.
If you're talking about the dryer door seal, that's something that's not as available, and the more knowledgeable people here will need to help you.
About the drum seal (the felt), it's still pretty easy to get; RepairClinic (www.repairclinic.com) carries it.
If you're talking about the dryer door seal, that's something that's not as available, and the more knowledgeable people here will need to help you.
Touch-up Paint
One bit of advice about covering up those small blemishes on the front of the dryer: Less is more. A lot less.
When I was doing touch-up on a white refrigerator a few years ago, after dipping the applicator brush into the bottle of touch-up I ran the brush around the rim until there was barely any paint left on it, then applied it to the scratched areas. You don't want apply so much that it runs or otherwise reveals an obvious touch-up job. I honestly can't find the repaired spots on my fridge anymore, and some were fairly large.
With the biggest scratch across one side, I got impatient and left more on the brush since it was such a big job. As a result, that repair is quite noticeable.
So don't apply a big blob of it, use a nearly dry brush (or the torn end of a match), and you'll probably not be able to tell where those dings were.
One bit of advice about covering up those small blemishes on the front of the dryer: Less is more. A lot less.
When I was doing touch-up on a white refrigerator a few years ago, after dipping the applicator brush into the bottle of touch-up I ran the brush around the rim until there was barely any paint left on it, then applied it to the scratched areas. You don't want apply so much that it runs or otherwise reveals an obvious touch-up job. I honestly can't find the repaired spots on my fridge anymore, and some were fairly large.
With the biggest scratch across one side, I got impatient and left more on the brush since it was such a big job. As a result, that repair is quite noticeable.
So don't apply a big blob of it, use a nearly dry brush (or the torn end of a match), and you'll probably not be able to tell where those dings were.
great advice
Once again, thanks for all the help!! The washer and dryer are in their new home and seem to work very well. I have done several loads an I am quite impressed. I have ordered new belts and the dryer felt seal and will be getting that done soon.
Got the new bulbs and new starters installed but still can't get the console lights to come on. The dryer console bulb flickered a bit and lit up then went out and now won't come back on at all. The washer bulb won't do a thing. I do know the machines have to be running for the bulbs to be on. The washer tub light and the dryer interior light is out as well. Any tips on getting all of these going?
Once again, thanks for all the help!! The washer and dryer are in their new home and seem to work very well. I have done several loads an I am quite impressed. I have ordered new belts and the dryer felt seal and will be getting that done soon.
Got the new bulbs and new starters installed but still can't get the console lights to come on. The dryer console bulb flickered a bit and lit up then went out and now won't come back on at all. The washer bulb won't do a thing. I do know the machines have to be running for the bulbs to be on. The washer tub light and the dryer interior light is out as well. Any tips on getting all of these going?
I would have had to rent a truck or trailer.
Trucks or trailers are not necessary to transport top load W/D's.
I can easily load a W/D set in my Dodge Grand Caravan, by myself if need be, and with room to spare.
In the past I've also moved individual washers and dryers in the trunk of my Olds Cutlass and Buick Le Sabre. Granted, they don't make cars like that anymore but just goes to show what can be done.
Trucks or trailers are not necessary to transport top load W/D's.
I can easily load a W/D set in my Dodge Grand Caravan, by myself if need be, and with room to spare.
In the past I've also moved individual washers and dryers in the trunk of my Olds Cutlass and Buick Le Sabre. Granted, they don't make cars like that anymore but just goes to show what can be done.
Moving
Every single machine I've bought came home on its front, laying down over the blanketed back hatch of a little hatchback car. Never a problem, but yes a few drops of lost oil. If I had to rent a truck, I'd never have started this hobby
Every single machine I've bought came home on its front, laying down over the blanketed back hatch of a little hatchback car. Never a problem, but yes a few drops of lost oil. If I had to rent a truck, I'd never have started this hobby
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