customline
Well-known member
The '56 Hotpoint needs a new compressor. Any advice on make and type of refrigerant ?
Need advice on refigerator compressor replacement.....
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servischris
Well-known member
Compressor
Hello, the ratings plate or compressor will say what refrigerant its running on, HOWEVER it will probably be an obsoleted refrigerant. On another note, over here in the UK you need an certification to handle refrigerants and confirm fridge systems are leak tight, and i believe there is a simalar system in the USA. If I were you, I would speak to an appliance repair company who can undertake such a repair, if the refrigerant isnt obsoleted. for a fridge of this era Id be suprised if it isn't. ( I'm a refrigeration engineer, incase one was wondering). Sorry I cant bring you good news!
Chris
Hello, the ratings plate or compressor will say what refrigerant its running on, HOWEVER it will probably be an obsoleted refrigerant. On another note, over here in the UK you need an certification to handle refrigerants and confirm fridge systems are leak tight, and i believe there is a simalar system in the USA. If I were you, I would speak to an appliance repair company who can undertake such a repair, if the refrigerant isnt obsoleted. for a fridge of this era Id be suprised if it isn't. ( I'm a refrigeration engineer, incase one was wondering). Sorry I cant bring you good news!
Chris
cfz2882
Well-known member
because of the weird ohm readings?
if this is a continuation of the thread a ways down with the "weird"ohm readings,what type of ohmmeter are you using to check the compressor and what readings are you getting ?
if this is a continuation of the thread a ways down with the "weird"ohm readings,what type of ohmmeter are you using to check the compressor and what readings are you getting ?
Of course,
There's really no problem with 'techs getting the older refrigerants if you talk to the right folks. Not legal, so not advocating for it - some Imperial Queen here would turn me in. As Travis mentioned, there's alternatives. The hard part is finding someone who actually knows what they're doing. Most are pull and replace idiots.
There's really no problem with 'techs getting the older refrigerants if you talk to the right folks. Not legal, so not advocating for it - some Imperial Queen here would turn me in. As Travis mentioned, there's alternatives. The hard part is finding someone who actually knows what they're doing. Most are pull and replace idiots.
There are also drop in replacements for R12 available.
customline
Well-known member
To cfz2882..........
Yes, the Ohms reading I'm getting from the three compressor pins (where the relay plugs in) are erratic. I can't get a straight 10 Ohm reading. Is this common on an old compressor ? I took this reading with the compressor NOT running.
Yes, the Ohms reading I'm getting from the three compressor pins (where the relay plugs in) are erratic. I can't get a straight 10 Ohm reading. Is this common on an old compressor ? I took this reading with the compressor NOT running.
Customline,
You should be able to get consistent readings. Does it run and cool right? If so, let it do so until it quits in my opinion.
It's hard to find a technician that will work outside the box so to speak. Most just want a part number of forget it. I am thankful that I found a very sympathetic one only 3 hrs away! That's right around the corner as far as I am concerned for keeping vintage fridges happy.
I don't think it will be that hard to find someone to replace your compressor. I just think that you're going to hate the $600-800 bill to do so. I bought a compressor from Grainger once for a a fridge for $250. The labor cost is where the pain happens. If the fake burger flipper wants $15/hr, what do you think the technician wants?
I do hope you save the fridge if you truly love it!
You should be able to get consistent readings. Does it run and cool right? If so, let it do so until it quits in my opinion.
It's hard to find a technician that will work outside the box so to speak. Most just want a part number of forget it. I am thankful that I found a very sympathetic one only 3 hrs away! That's right around the corner as far as I am concerned for keeping vintage fridges happy.
I don't think it will be that hard to find someone to replace your compressor. I just think that you're going to hate the $600-800 bill to do so. I bought a compressor from Grainger once for a a fridge for $250. The labor cost is where the pain happens. If the fake burger flipper wants $15/hr, what do you think the technician wants?
I do hope you save the fridge if you truly love it!
customline
Well-known member
Travis.............
Yes, it's running quiet and making cold consistently. It's cycling on and off like it's supposed to. By the way, cfz2882: I used a digital multi meter to check Ohms on the pins. Yes, Travis, it's very difficult to get someone to work on these old things, new guys don't want to touch it. Too much trouble shooting and work. I thought the Ohms reading should read 10 but now upon getting a second opinion it should read 0 (no resistance). Also, I was asked to do an Amp reading on the compressor wires. I'll have the results tonight.
Yes, it's running quiet and making cold consistently. It's cycling on and off like it's supposed to. By the way, cfz2882: I used a digital multi meter to check Ohms on the pins. Yes, Travis, it's very difficult to get someone to work on these old things, new guys don't want to touch it. Too much trouble shooting and work. I thought the Ohms reading should read 10 but now upon getting a second opinion it should read 0 (no resistance). Also, I was asked to do an Amp reading on the compressor wires. I'll have the results tonight.
The three compressor leads are run, start and common. You're going to read resistance from any two of them. That's the motor. The two leads that give you the highest are the run and start. The next highest is the start and common. The lowest is the run and common. This is how you figure out what's what when they're not labeled.
What you don't want is much of a reading from any of the three terminals to ground. That means your compressor is grounding out and will eventually not start.
What you don't want is much of a reading from any of the three terminals to ground. That means your compressor is grounding out and will eventually not start.
customline
Well-known member
Travis...........
But why was it reading so erratic ? It would jump from 10 to 23 Ohms and then back. Shouldn't it be just a straight reading ? The service manual says btwn 15 to 18 Ohms. I will also do a ground test. I will have results tonight.
But why was it reading so erratic ? It would jump from 10 to 23 Ohms and then back. Shouldn't it be just a straight reading ? The service manual says btwn 15 to 18 Ohms. I will also do a ground test. I will have results tonight.
Are you taking your readings with the wires disconnected? If not, you may be reading differences in the refrigerator wiring.
I'm with Travis, let 'er go, and put the meters away.
I'm with Travis, let 'er go, and put the meters away.
customline
Well-known member
To goatfarmer
I'm taking readings on the three compressor pins with the relay unplugged and off of the compressor motor. I used two different digital multi meters and they both did the same thing when I checked each pin for resistance. The readings were erratic. Could this be that I can't do a resistance check the same way on an old compressor as a new one ?
I'm taking readings on the three compressor pins with the relay unplugged and off of the compressor motor. I used two different digital multi meters and they both did the same thing when I checked each pin for resistance. The readings were erratic. Could this be that I can't do a resistance check the same way on an old compressor as a new one ?
customline
Well-known member
Thank you !!!!!
Thank you everyone for the help. Just did an amp clamp reading it reads normal (60 cycles).
Thank you everyone for the help. Just did an amp clamp reading it reads normal (60 cycles).
Hold on here, up thread it says
"it's running quiet and making cold consistently. It's cycling on and off like it's supposed to."
Sounds like it works fine, or did I miss something?
Why are you measuring the resistance of the compressor windings?
As for the variability of the readings you are seeing, the only thing that comes to my mind is intermittent contact between the meter probes and the pins on the compressor. It is very unlikely that the winding resistances will vary (especially if the thing runs).
"it's running quiet and making cold consistently. It's cycling on and off like it's supposed to."
Sounds like it works fine, or did I miss something?
Why are you measuring the resistance of the compressor windings?
As for the variability of the readings you are seeing, the only thing that comes to my mind is intermittent contact between the meter probes and the pins on the compressor. It is very unlikely that the winding resistances will vary (especially if the thing runs).
