Never had one do this before.

[volvoguy87]

Some of you may recall I was repairing a 1983 Kenmore 70 Series for a friend of mine to use. Right now, it's being a royal pain in the wig wag. The spin tube seals had leaked a little and caused the spin tube to swell slightly inside the centerpost, causing it to get stuck and not be able to be removed.

I got a steel pipe that fit inside the centerpost and a big mallet and started pounding on the spin tube. The spin tube (and basket drive assembly) has slowly moved down! Unfortunately, the upper centerpost bearing went right along with it. The upper centerpost bearing is now sitting at the bottom of the centerpost on top of the lower bearing. The spin tube is still stuck tight to the upper bearing. What do I do now?

Is there a way to grab the basket drive pulley and pull? Should I get a bigger mallet and pound some more, hoping to drive out both centerpost bearings and the lower seal through the bottom? Ugh, this washer is making its own restoration unnecessarily difficult!

Much frustration,
Dave

 

[kenmoreguy64]

Dave -

It is not uncommon for grooves to wear in the spin tube, which allows them to rust, which then distorts the spin tube. This makes it difficult to get it to pass through the bearings.

I have never pounded one of these out of a machine, though it is fairly common for them to be stuck. My solution has always been, with the transmission out, to grasp the entire lower half of the basket drive assembly and twist it back and forth while pulling on it at the same time.

It can be an exhausting exercise unless you need to work shoulders and chest that day anyway, but I've never had one get stuck nor have I had one take the upper bearing for a ride along with. I have had a few that used my quota of F-bombs for the week.

To get the spin tube out you're either going to have to put it back all the way up, and cut it out (I have that coming on one of my machines), or twist it through both bearings. The one plus to twisting it is usually that the expanded portion slims down as it is being turned through the bearings, so it gets easier, slightly, as you go. Guaranteed you're going to need a new spin tube and new bearings now, but if you get this far, the machine will be re-newed once new parts are installed.

Now that both bearings are stacked atop each other, I'm not sure the bearing puller can be inserted that far up the centerpost to grab both bearings. You'll just have to try it!

Good luck Dave, unfortunately this is about the best way to learn about belt-drives, the cuss-word way....

Gordon

 

[combo52]

STUCK SPIN TUBE

Hi Dave this happens at times at this point just keep pounding and pound both bearings and the spin tube out the bottom. I need to show you and Gordon the secret way to remove the spin tube when it is swelled with rust above the bearing with almost no workout.

 

[volvoguy87]

Please do John.

Will you be in Cincinnati any time soon John? You're absolutely welcome in my basement any time, heck, I'll even feed you!

I pounded from the top with a 3/4 inch steel pipe and a 16 pound maul. It didn't budge, although it did mash down the hammer-end of the pipe quite nicely. I think I'll need a bigger hammer. As for twisting, no can do. It's so stuck I can't twist it. I may be able to grab it with my 2 foot pipe wrench. I'll see what that does for it.

I wish new base plates were still available!
Dave

Thanks for your advice.