New 10Kg Fisher & Paykel 'Washsmart' top load washer

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mayfan69

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 17, 2005
Messages
1,499
Location
Brisbane Queensland Australia
Hi everyone,

I bought this 10kg F&P 'Washsmart' washer at a factory outlet sale for AU$450 off the RRP so I couldn't resist.

Finally have been able to upload a video after having some computer issues.

The F&P is in place of the Speed Queen which is now doing stellar service at my mum's place.

Some observations: it's definitely nowhere near as well built as the SQ and more than likely won't last as long, but after a recent interstate trip, I now have the necessary spare parts (which I got for free) to keep this running when it does eventually break down.

Would I pay full RRP for it? No, so I can justify the saving I made.

It actually washes very well and the 1100RPM spin speed is great. I also like the fact the 'Eco' rinse is still an option.

Cheers
Leon

mayfan69++12-10-2013-05-22-52.jpg
 
Console

She has a very SMART design to her control panel. Using the left to right programing logic makes old school users adapt to all electronic controls much easier.

I like it!

Malcolm
 
I am delighted . . .

. . . to see that F&P have kept the agitator on their top load machine. I have a 7 year old F&P Intuitive machine that has been wonderful. No problems whatsoever. Lots of automatic cycles, but very easily accepts changes in program. There's even a cycle to operate as a "standard washer."

The stroke on the agitator varies in speed and length depending on what type of fabric is being washed. The spin on mine is 1000 rpm, and most times clothes that need to be ironed can be ironed as soon as the washer is finished.

I have never understood why F&P gets such a bad rap. I'd get another one in a heartbeat if necessary.

Good luck with yours.

Jerry Gay
 
 
<blockquote>On the control panel the wash temp is indicating cold and warm - does that mean lukewarm?</blockquote> Yes.  F&P washers have five temp choices (except a few lower-end models that have three).

All temps are ATC, with most models having a programming option to change ATC cold to tap cold.

Cold
Warm/Cold (Cold + Warm lights)
Warm
Warm/Hot (Warm + Hot lights)
Hot
 
I wish there'd be some sort of stain removal option that does warm recirculation and then a hot fill. That would allow for max. enzyme activity before they get cooked.

The faster-speed sequence before the agitated wash is interesting. What's it for? Also, don't you get tons of condensation inside the washer's cabinet if you have the lid closed on a hot wash? A rusting cabinet was a problem with the first generation WP Cabrios...
 
Rusty cabinet

Well, considering most of the materials made in the machine are plastic, I don't think rust has ever been an issue with F&P's.

Anyway, after the initial hot fill, the machine fills with cold water for the remainder of the 'agitation' part of the cycle.
 
 
<blockquote>I wish there'd be some sort of stain removal option that does warm recirculation and then a hot fill. That would allow for max. enzyme activity before they get cooked.</blockquote> My Intuitive Eco does have such a cycle for blood/protein stains.
 
nice washer but for me i fine it a waste of energy even for a topload washer to have a wash time of 50 minutes and me i would of wash these towels mix with other clothes not just start a load for just towels and of course i would have the wash temp set on cold water wash because cold water washing is what is mostly recomended for most fabrics and would of put the detergent while the washer was filling and not in the agitator you might call me old fashion but i much prefer to use a washer with the old style knob thats pull to start push to stop that i would set to the wash time i need but this is just my opinion as everyone have diffrent wash style
 
Washing-Time

50 minutes is not at all a long time to be washing clothes. Especially when you consider this machine gives you pure, hot water when requested (We don't have "ATC" and dumbed-down temps in this country... Yet), is smart enough to determine the fabric type and speed of agitation and because you have a nice variety of cycles. Due to the addition of technology, the machine can probably adapt the cycle depending on the type of fabric that it detects too, ensuring proper washing action for all clothing.

You also need to look up the washing ability of these machines on YouTube. The Hand-Wash cycle on these is incredibly gentle. Heavy-Duty washes are powerful, and get things clean.

As for putting detergent in the agitator, this is a far better place to put it. Firstly, it is NOT in contact with clothing - so it cannot stain the clothes from dissolving during the fill. Secondly, it won't get washed into the bottom of the wash tub where it cannot be recovered. As the water level increases, powder dissolves and enters the water where the CLOTHES belong, not the outer tub.

If you consider the amount of energy that the well-developed Fisher and Paykel "SmartDrive" mechanism uses in operation, you will find it a MOOT POINT of how long it is washing. How many watts does agitation use on this? Maximum 100, I would think. And how much cost does that correlate to in a usual wash cycle?
NOTHING, especially when compared to using water heated by an electric heater (With ABSURD KW/h pricing) or using water from a scarce supply.
You must also take into account when considering how long the machine might take is the cycle used. Different cycles last for different amounts of time. These machines do allow customisation of washing time, at least from what I remember from my own research (The "QuickSmart" model can be adjusted for Short, Regular and "Heavy Duty" wash lengths, additionally, several "in-betweens" are offered).

Quite frankly, when washing in Cold water, you would greatly benefit from having a longer wash time - especially with your cold Canadian water supply. Remember: There are several key aspects of laundry. If you decrease any one of them, others must then be INCREASED to compensate. I.e. Reducing temperature = Increased Detergent Load (Increased environmental burden, poorer rinsing, detergent rashes), Longer Washing Time ("Increased" energy costs, more damage to clothing = Increased clothing costs, More Wear/Tear on machine).

In regards to your Cold-Water Washing claim, a good number of members have already tried discussing this with you. You know that what don't appreciate having our noses "rubbed in it," so please don't putting the match in the puddle of gas, will you?
But I will say: The majority of my clothing says this: "WARM, GENTLE MACHINE WASH. DO NOT TUMBLE DRY." Some articles have an additional 'Think Climate' notice on them, that tells you to wash in Cold. I follow the regular part of the care label. I want clean clothes, not "Environmentally Friendly" clothes (Which really isn't - when you think of the additional washing time and detergent loading plus fabric softener for stuff that isn't being cleaned properly).
 
Forget This::

These machines also Spin at HIGHER speeds (~1000rpm,), use ECONOMICAL rinsing phases and will SPIN for LONGER.

In the "Good Old Days," machines may not have spun for nearly as long, nor as fast (Most certainly never went faster than 800rpm). These days, people are more concerned about saving energy, so using an extra few minutes to extract more water is not going to kill you or the washer, nor your wallet.
 
To answer Logixx's question . . .

. . . about adding softener to the rinse:

If you add softener (which I do not), the machine has a "softener" rinse whereby it rinses in deep water instead of the spray rinse. One simply sets the controls to "softener rinse."

F&P have thought a great deal about laundry and the different interests in getting different clothes clean.

Jerry Gay
 
Softener

This cycle was set to use fabric softener (no eco option) but still did spray rinses with the drum stopping between the spraying and spinning. Shouldn't the softener be released during these stops?

Alex
 
Instructions:

Logixx: this is what the instructions say:

The fabric softener goes into the dispenser cup on top of the agitator. During the rinse the machine spins to release the fabric softener, delivering it down the agitator stem as the machine fills for the final deep rinse.

 

As I do not use fabric softener, I'm not going to test it and trust the machine to do what its supposed to!!
 
 
In my opinion the machine is not functioning correctly for a non-Eco rinse.  What I see is the Eco rinse function running at the start of the rinse phase ... alternating sprays at slow rotation (25 RPM) with faster spins for extraction ... leading into an agitated deep rinse.  Softener would definitely run out and be wasted at the first pause in spinning.

My IWL12 defaults to a deep/agitated rinse, has Eco Rinse as an option.  On a non-Eco rinse it drains, revs up to 300 RPM, does a couple sprays, accelerates to 670 RPM for extraction, slows to 300 RPM and does a couple/few more sprays, 670 RPM again, then stops for the deep rinse fill.  It never drops below 300 RPM for the spin sprays so as to retain the softener from draining into the tub until spin does stop completely at the rinse fill.  It does pause spinning and rotate at 25 RPM for saturation sprays IF Eco Rinse is selected.

I've run into a few people who had this problem with GWL11 models, and maybe a GWL15.  I advised them to contact service and have the control board replaced.  One of the contacts reported back that there apparently was a programming flaw in his board.  I've also heard that some agitator-model Whirlpool Cabrio units had this flaw (greetings, Jeff/Washaholic!).

I don't know ... maybe F&P purposely changed the programming but that seems unlikely because there's no way to avoid wasting softener in the rinse sequence I see in your video.
 
Leon

Here, it's considered a vintage, good thing. It's an older, specially formulated detergent that quickly dissolves no matter how cold the water is, no matter how little agitation there is. They made it with a modified form of Sodium Sulfate, and a activator to dissolve all of the filler. 

 

I also personally believe, it was formulated with better surfactants, for better stain removal performance. Plus, the older powders contained a ingredient called "cellulose" that helped prevent cotton fabric pilling, that's no longer found in most of the newer formulations. 

 

Consider the stuff, good stuff ;)   The formula you have was completely discontinued in Late 2010. 
 
It is my understanding that both the Clean and Wash Smart machines give true hotwashes when the allergy cycle is selected.
 
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