"New" GE Filter Flo owner here :) Questions and strange noises . . .

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RWIndiana

Active member
Joined
Oct 13, 2012
Messages
40
My parents had one when I was a baby, and yesterday I picked one up (not sure what year). I had some trouble with it already though. On small/medium loads it seemed to work fine, but on extra large, the agitator had a hard time moving (or didn't move at all), and water poured out of the bottom of the tub. I opened it all up and saw this:

rwindiana++10-13-2012-09-31-35.jpg
 
Is that an alarming amount of scale in the tub? Anyway, after tightening the steel band back onto the rubber collar, all seems to be well, with no leaks, and running fine on large and extra large. However, there is a slight clunking from the transmission during agitation. Not very loud, but I wasn't sure if that's normal. If so, it doesn't bother me.

Lastly, the spin cycle. There is a "click-click-click" every couple of seconds when it gets up to speed. It sounds like the brake, but quieter.

This is certainly an interesting discussion board. Never knew something like this existed until I started looking for a filter-flo. :) Here's a picture of the machine's console - perhaps someone knows what year this is from:

rwindiana++10-13-2012-09-40-41.jpg
 
Your machine is from the late Eighties, early Nineties. They changed the design of the backsplashes, slightly, to be consistent with the new GE "Corporate" design specs. I think it's a smart looking panel and yours looks like a very respectable MOL unit.

 

The scale on the bottom of your outer tub is perfectly normal for a well-used machine in a hard water area. It's very easy to clean with de-scaler. The bad news is that it sounds like your transmission will require replacing. GE trannys usually leaked oil when they were ready to sh*t the bed, but yours sounds like it's beginning to fail. FF's rarely struggle to agitate on any sized load and the noise you're hearing during the spin might be a harbinger of death. On the other hand, it could be that the spin brake is out of whack and engaging when it shouldn't. Are you avoiding a service call? You might want to save yourself the grief and the grime. Fortunately, trannies for Filter-Flo's seem to come up once in a while on eBay and some of the techies on this site may have one for sale. I'm told it's an easy job to replace them. The only thing is you'll have to identify your machine as either standard capacity or extra-large.

 

Other more service-knowledgeable members will weigh in on this so listen to them. Good luck and welcome!
 
Thanks for the replies! How much do you want for the drier? We've already got two driers, and one is just sitting in the barn, although it would be an interesting proposition to have a matching set. :)
Baja, now that I replaced the steel band, the washer has no trouble agitating. I do hope it's not the transmission. But now that I have this machine, I'll probably be watching for any spare parts that might fit it, since obviously none of the components are getting any younger. The main belt looks a bit worn and has a few small chunks out of it . . .
I think the banging might be the brake. But I don't know how in the world one would fix that. If I can figure out how to post a video, you can hear how it sounds.
By the way, it is an "Extra Large Capacity". Are most of these compatible with one another?
 
There were only two sizes of Perforated tub Filter-Flo's made, "<span style="text-decoration: underline; color: #339966;">Standard capacity</span>" which includes V-12, 14 & 16 and was later called "Large Capacity" and "<span style="text-decoration: underline; color: #0000ff;">Extra-large capacity</span> " which began as "Heavy Duty 18" .

 

The components of there machines are largely interchangeable, but the wash-baskets, activators, mini-baskets, outer tubs and transmission assemblies are available in the two different sizes. I suppose you could get away with rebuilding a transmission with a large activator post, but I wouldn't know how to do that.
 
There can be a trick to some of this time frame as far as capacities......meaning, they were using the largest capacity tubs, and small capacity, short post transmissions, thus adding a 2 inch adaptive extention to the top of the agitator for the difference to compensate......this was more seen in the next version of the tilted monochromatic control panel......

its best to take measurements when considering replacements of the exact one......not that you couldn't put a Regular Largest Capacity tranny in, but you would also need the larger agitator....you can interchange alot, but keep in mind some things have to be matched together.....

just pay attention to sizes......but for the most part, anything can be done!
 
There is a very good chance the noise you're getting could be from the belt, especially if the belt "has a few small chunks out of it". I'd replace it and see where it gets you since it needs it anyway.

RCD
 
"Lastly, the spin cycle. There is a "click-click-click" every couple of seconds when it gets up to speed. It sounds like the brake, but quieter. "

Welcome to the Filter-Flo club!
Try running a load on gentle spin and see if that clicking noise you hear is still present.
-Alex

tecnopolis++10-13-2012-17-59-19.jpg
 
We had the same machine as the one above, except ours didnt have the mini basket. According to your description, ours made the same noise. That washer was the best cleaning washer I have used to this day, it was given to us (well used when we got it) and used it for well over a year, until the agitator stripped out (could possibly be your problem with agitation) and shortly after, the motor seized up. As others have said, check/ replace the belt, because it is 20 some years old, so is likely hard and cracked.
 
.If you ran a load on gentle and the noise wasn't there, then you more than likely have your speed solenoid actuator arm misaligned, not allowing it to drop down far enough not to interfere with the rotating clutch cams. 

 

 

tecnopolis++10-13-2012-21-09-18.jpg
 
.In this picture the 2 small cams can be seen sticking out on either side of the round clutch drum above the motor. 

When the speed solenoid is in it's resting position or Regualr/Fast, springs pull the actuator arm down so as not to activate the cams. Basically it's OFF (just like in the picture). Select gentle and the solenoid is energized, lifting the arm from its resting position, upwards to make contact with the clutch cams and thus engage Gentle/slow. 

It's very hard to see, but when it's making that noise, look through the peep hole in the black motor yoke to see if the arm is up or down.

I hope this helps.

-Alex

tecnopolis++10-13-2012-21-10-31.jpg
 
Well, the noise is quieter and less frequent on the gentle speed, but still there. I can't tell if the arm is moving or not (though it must be, because it does change speeds). Maybe it's not the arm I'm looking at.

The solenoid and all is heavily covered in grease. Bad sign? Most everything under there has a coating of grease, though it doesn't appear to be growing or leaking from anywhere. Perhaps it did at one time. I'll have to take a better look at everything when I've got more time.

Dustin, this one doesn't have the mini-basket either, unfortunately. I'll be keeping my eyes open for that as well. Don't really need it, but it would be kinda neat. :)
 
Some pictures

I'm gonna try posting some pics of the grease. Don't know if it will be a good representation or not:

rwindiana++10-14-2012-08-12-52.jpg
 
On this one you can see the grease splattered on the wall of the cabinet. Seems like a lot of grease all over the place. Yet, right now, everything is running fine. I wonder how long it was like this, and how the floor underneath it looked before I got it! It hasn't made a mess on my floor yet.

rwindiana++10-14-2012-08-16-59.jpg
 
tranny seal

yep,tranny seal is damaged and belt has been ruined by the oil.Leaky lower seal is a very common filterflo problem-it is caused by metal particles and filings that filterflo transmissions normally generate over years of use collecting atop and wearing on the input shaft seal.Transmission change super easy on a filterflo though.The belt groove on the two-speed clutch is aluminum and wears like mad if the belt has been slipping.
 
Thanks for the info. Any ideas what I might be spending on a new transmission, or where I can get one (along with a belt)?
 
It's also possible the transmission is taking on water internally, forcing the grease out. Either way, not good.

 

Best way is to find another washer with a good trans. GE's of that era are starting to rust through the outer tubs, so the trans is still good.
 
I would try using some degreaser like simple green and get all of that built up gunk out of there to see what's really going on. This way you can see if there is any fresh evidence of oil being blown around. 

Maybe the grease was there from a prior breakdown and the person that fixed it didn't bother to clean it up? 

 

tecnopolis++10-14-2012-12-21-59.jpg.gif
 
It's also possible to replace the lower seal and change out the oil. If the trans is in otherwise good shape, I've done this. Pull the trans, flip it upside down (either hold it by securing the agitation shaft in a bench vise or use a jig made from a piece of plywood with a hole cut in it so that the trans case sits nice and pretty in it...), then access the lower cover. The shaft seals used to be pretty easy to find and put in.

Just an idea...

RCD
 
.GE doesn't make it easy to see, but the solenoid is behind the motor, pointing towards the center of the machine.  

Follow those 2 wires branching off of the maim motor wiring harness back to it.

The noise I heard when mine was acting up was like someone rapping on an empty coffee can. Click, click, click.

tecnopolis++10-14-2012-12-55-4.jpg
 
Done is done and works when works. But I would love to have been a fly on the wall at the engineering meeting where they decided that was a better way to do 2 speeds than a motor with 2 windings.

All that mecha AND the vulnerability of the customer changing speeds while running.
 
I like my one-speed better in the sense that it is quieter than the 2-speed. Less to go wrong and yes, the repair guide warns NOT to change speeds while the motor is running. I guess it was too costly to put an interlock on the switch once the motor is activated to prevent it.  

 

 
 
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