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jend

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Hubby is going to pick up a KDB-21B tonight and wondered if anyone can help me really understand what im getting.
 
Almost bottom of the line!

But a good machine nonetheless!
This would be a Hobart dsesigned Kitchenaid series 21 dishwasher but it is the "builders" model which would have been installed when the house was built. It may have only a limited selection of cycles but will no doubt have a Full cycle and a Rinse and Hold at the least. Perhaps an energy saving switch for the drying unit where you can deselect the heated air to dry the dishes. When you get it, post some pics and we can help you sort thru it better.

IIRC, it should still heat the water on the wash cycle fills and continue to heat during the wash cycle to maintain the water temp in the tank. You will still hav e the pumpo with the metal food disposer unit in it which will grind up just about anything you throw at it(though you should still scrape the dishes first).
 
Thanks!!! I am waiting on a text back about another one. The add says " NEEDS GASKET FOR EITHER WATER INLET OR OUTLET"

Not sure if its worth looking in to or not. Waiting to find out what model. Bottom line is my 6 year old DW is dead and im hand washing for a family of 6. I refuse to let any new or newer DW back in this house.
 
There are members here who feel the KUDS23 has a better pump and filter system than earlier models.  That machine will definitely give you more cycle options than the KDB21, which you may find helpful considering it will be tackling big jobs generated by a large family, and it will operate much more quietly.

 

I'd be suspicious of the seller's speculation about needing a gasket for the inlet or outlet, and suggest you ask them to elaborate or show you just where the leak is located.  If it needs a new pump seal, that's a much bigger job, and you may not find a repair service willing to deal with a machine of that age.  A KUDS23 would date back to the mid-90's or so.
 
Hubby picked the KDB-21B since he is so familiar with Hobart's quality. We shall see!!

The other one is listed on detroit-metro craigslist for $25. Sorry not sure how to do a direct link.

At this point I want a machine to wash rather than me. My poor hands are cracked and can't keep up with the demands of a large family. Options overwhelm me so maybe no options is a good match for my first vintage appliance?
 
Anyone know if this model has a calrod heater?

 

If not, crank up your water heater until 150F water is coming out of the kitchen faucet.

 

Personally, I immediately install a drain impeller and seal kit in every KitchenAid I get. This prevents motor bearing damage from a leaky seal down the road.
 
KD Water Heater ?

All KA DWs built after the 18s have water heating capabilities. So it may be risky and expensive with many children in the house to raise the water temp too much. I would add insulation to this DW when you install it and if used on the heavier cycles it should do a great job with a water temperature entering the machine somewhere between 120-130 degrees and the machine will last much longer at a slightly cooler temperatures.
 
Thanks! Hubby is going to help me get the insulation blanket on today. I was in such a hurry last night to do a test run that I hooked it up and just slid it in to place. Today is permanent installation.

drain impeller and seal kit is this something I have to order online or can I get it from Lowes?
 
can I get it from Lowes?

No offense, but . . . ROFL!  If only it were that convenient. 

 

SteveT or other experts can advise if it's available through Hobart.  Believe it or not, the fact that you went for the older Hobart machine increases your chances of finding the seal.

 

So how did the test run go?  Inquiring minds (and we have a lot of those here) want to know!
 
Sorry I didn't know if it was a simple seal that was universal or something that was a hunted item. I am brand spanking new at vintage appliances :)

I am still shocked as I look out my back door and see my 6 year old DW sitting out there ready to be taken to the scrap yard. I paid $600 for it. It just disgusts me that everything I first bought when we bought our house is now needing to be replaced because it has broken.
 
Oh and the test run was great. 53 mins from start of cycle to the start of the drying. I was AMAZED. My old DW was 2 hours before it got to the dry cycle.

A few items had food left on them but they were insanely think and caked on.
 
Jen:

"A few items had food left on them but they were insanely thick and caked on."

Today's non-phosphate dishwasher detergents are not nearly as effective at removing that kind of soil as those of yesteryear.

That having been said, some of today's detergents are way better than others, and the addition of a small amount of STPP (sodium tripolyphosphate) to each load will work wonders in getting things clean.

Again, I'll let more knowledgeable people here advise you further, but I did want you to know that even more improvements in automatic dishwashing are possible.
 
Phosphates

This could be an issue with your vintage machine.  Phosphates were removed from dishwasher detergents across the board about two years ago or so, and spotting, filming, and generally poor cleaning results ensued across the country.  You can find institutional detergents that still have phosphates, but you'll have to look for such products somewhere besides the supermarket.  Your previous dishwasher could manage without phosphates because it ran so damned long.  Older machines were designed to get the job done quickly, but also presumed the detergent would contain phosphates.

 

If your water is soft enough, you may get away with phosphate-free detergent.  I've read here that people are having good luck with the "power ball" and packet/tablet types of detergents, but take a good look at them to make sure they'll fit in your dispenser.  Also, using a product like "Lemishine" (basically citric acid and available at Target) will help.   I'd recommend running a full cycle with Lemishine (with dishwasher empty) to clean the interior and other components before putting the machine into regular use.  But first, with tub door open flat -- and you won't be able to see it unless you stick your head inside the tub but you can just feel around with your fingers -- all along the bottom of the door there's a lip where funky greasy residue tends to accumulate.  Clean that stuff up and keep tabs on it going forward.

 

Any items with caked-on soil should be placed on the bottom rack tilted toward the center of the tub to give the 4-way Hydrosweep spray arm the best chance at getting them clean.
 
I called the city and the water report said there were 6.5 grains per gallon. I have a Gordons Food Service I am going to see if they still sell the food service Cascade.

I stuck my head in and all seals look great around the door. This unit doesnt look like it was used much at all. Now there is crud (rust or something) in the middle where it looks like someone used it, removed it and it has sat every since. Any recommendations that will cut through that?
 
 
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<a name="start_42171.621015">and if used on the heavier cycles it should do a great job with a water temperature entering the machine somewhere between 120-130 degrees and the machine will last much longer at a slightly cooler temperatures.</a>
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 If all 19+ series have water heating capabilities, then the thermo is still going to the heat the water up to 150F before washing, regardless of the incoming water temperature that is entering the dishwasher.
 
Even with 152F water at the tap, my KDS-19 takes 10-11 minutes of heating to satisfy the 150F thermo. This is cut in half if I use the "Heavy  Duty" cycle, which simply fills and then immediately purges, once the water valve closes.
 
With an incoming water temp of 120F, it would probably take a half hour or more of heating to satisfy the thermo. Since electric rates are more expensive here (and in most places in the US) than gas, it would be more costly to use your procedure.
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