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BobFlyer

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Joined
Dec 6, 2025
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39.5 year old Kenmore series 70 110.82374800 from 1986 June purchase. Been in service till just recently..slipping belt..draining issues.
Tightened belt, now spins, but slow to empty water..Pump may be worn out..Only repaired once 20 years ago a timer and knob..Joined to learn about saving this washer from the dump.

Regards to all Bob
 
1982 Kenmore Belt Dr. washer

Hi, you most likely have a pump problem if tightening the belt doesn’t work pumps are still readily available for these machines.

If your machine happens to have a sudsaver, it has a back flush lint filter that could be clogged. Then you have to remove the agitator and wash basket to access replacing the lint filter.

Hopefully, you can get some more years out of this washer, but it’s statistically past the end of its life.

Don’t be afraid of a new washer, even though these were great machines there are many great machines made today, Americans are not known for being dirty, new machines are working just fine.

Most washer enthusiasts have switched to front load washers because of their superior performance. I would certainly recommend such you’ll be amazed at how much cleaner and drier The laundry comes out of the washer. Your dryer will feel like it’s gone on vacation.

Let us know what you find if you try to fix this washer.

John L
 
Thanks for the feedback. This model does not have the sudsaver. It uses only drain manifold, which could perhaps be obstructed. I have ordered a pump, new old stock (350365) and waiting on its arrival. I have a new belt on hand (95405) . My big issue is just getting room around the washer to allow access to the bottom. Washer is in a very cramped space. Unit is about 250 lb plus/minus. I am a senior but capable of servicing the unit. If it fails after this pump install. I will get a new unit. Just need a basic no frills top loader (front loader is too cramped for space to open washer door). Yes, I agree, very many negative comments on new washers, Speed Queen is overpriced in my opinion, could buy three basic washers for the price of the TC 5003cw. Not sure about LG/GE/Whirlpool and its other offerings Maytag. Leaning towards the LG 6105 but in my area, the LG service is dispatched via a Mobil network plus available parts for the diy repair from what I have been told is not the best.
Regards Bob
 
You'll probably NEED to buy 3 basic washers to equal that Speed Queen, but if it needs repaired, that might tip the scale a bit. They're quite proud of their parts... Still well worth it to me, buying one used and just keeping it going has worked out for me as an alternative to writing a $1300 check for a new one!
 
You'll probably NEED to buy 3 basic washers to equal that Speed Queen, but if it needs repaired, that might tip the scale a bit. They're quite proud of their parts... Still well worth it to me, buying one used and just keeping it going has worked out for me as an alternative to writing a $1300 check for a new one!
Thanks for the feedback..Yes on the 3:1 price difference...If I thought I would live long enough I might go the SQ. But I don't think that is in the cards for us Octogenarians. So leaning towards the basic no frill top loader..New TC 5003 are 1499 here plus delivery, haul away and taxes adds another 100 dollars minimum. We do about three loads a week...towels/linens...and clothes.

Tnx Bob
 
Well I made a mistake on the replacement Kenmore/whirlpool washer pump. My unit only uses two ports, part number kenmore/Whirlpool 350365. I did not know at time of purchase this pump comes in 2 port and 4 port. My question, It looks like I could just couple the two smaller ports together with a hose and a couple of clamps or figure out a way to cap the unused ports. I think these two small ports are used for other functions like lint filter,soap. I cannot tell if they are internally connected to the main pump input/output or are they isolated and I don't need to worry about capping them off?

Is this approach viable, or should I just look for a two port 350365? Thanks in advance...Attached is what I have as a replacement unit 4 port. The two Ports I think need capping are highlighted in blue.

Belt after all these years is still in very good condition, washer goes thru all the cycles, but is not draining properly.

Thanks in advance Bob
 

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Well I made a mistake on the replacement Kenmore/whirlpool washer pump. My unit only uses two ports, part number kenmore/Whirlpool 350365. I did not know at time of purchase this pump comes in 2 port and 4 port. My question, It looks like I could just couple the two smaller ports together with a hose and a couple of clamps or figure out a way to cap the unused ports. I think these two small ports are used for other functions like lint filter,soap. I cannot tell if they are internally connected to the main pump input/output or are they isolated and I don't need to worry about capping them off?

Is this approach viable, or should I just look for a two port 350365? Thanks in advance...Attached is what I have as a replacement unit 4 port. The two Ports I think need capping are highlighted in blue.

Belt after all these years is still in very good condition, washer goes thru all the cycles, but is not draining properly.

Thanks in advance Bob
That central connection is the "input" hose line.
 
I was assuming that the two Larger Ports which have some sort of Flapper valve controls the draining action of the washer. One of the large ports for input, and the second large the output port to the drain hose for discharge or emptying of the washer.
I am just a DIY attempt, since it is so old trying to keep it going.

If the central smaller hose is the "input" what is it used for? My unit calls for the 350365 two port pump. I guess I need help if this will even work in my case? It appears to be a small secondary pump action for some feature my machine does not support?

Thanks in advance Bob
 
I was assuming that the two Larger Ports which have some sort of Flapper valve controls the draining action of the washer. One of the large ports for input, and the second large the output port to the drain hose for discharge or emptying of the washer.
I am just a DIY attempt, since it is so old trying to keep it going.

If the central smaller hose is the "input" what is it used for? My unit calls for the 350365 two port pump. I guess I need help if this will even work in my case? It appears to be a small secondary pump action for some feature my machine does not support?

Thanks in advance Bob
We'd need another view of that pump, different angles.

Centrifical pumps draw in fluid at the center of the impeller by suction.
Then the impeller blades spins the fluid outwards, out of the chamber towards the side exits.
 
The 4-port pump has the separate pumping section for a recirculating lint filter.

The pump operates continuously whenever the motor is running. The drain section has the flapper valve linked to the agitation shift bar. Drain output is "closed" during agitation, open when not agitating.
 
Here are a couple of more Pictures of the pump...I have used inner tube and clamps to close off the smaller ports which I think are used in other machines to clean the lint filter and perhaps other functions.

Thanks for feedback

Attached 3 photo's
 

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The 4-port pump has the separate pumping section for a recirculating lint filter.

The pump operates continuously whenever the motor is running. The drain section has the flapper valve linked to the agitation shift bar. Drain output is "closed" during agitation, open when not agitating.
Thank you. Do you know if there are internal connections inside the two pumping port actions, what I mean the two larger ports are for draining, and the smaller ports are for lint filter, if the smaller ports are not used, or left open, would water action flow from the internal larger ports into the smaller ports. I have the four port, and really only need the two port, thus I hope I could still use the pump and just close off the smaller ports. I have attached photo's showing the smaller port blocked...Just don't wish to have a disaster of water flooding the laundry room.
Thanks you for your feedback..Bob
 
Thank you. Do you know if there are internal connections inside the two pumping port actions, what I mean the two larger ports are for draining, and the smaller ports are for lint filter, if the smaller ports are not used, or left open, would water action flow from the internal larger ports into the smaller ports. I have the four port, and really only need the two port, thus I hope I could still use the pump and just close off the smaller ports. I have attached photo's showing the smaller port blocked...Just don't wish to have a disaster of water flooding the laundry room.
Thanks you for your feedback..Bob
Why not just return it and get the proper part?

My motto is "Do it right the first time, or don't do it at all"
 
Made a mistake not knowing there was a choice for the same part number, 2 port and 4 port.
Seller does not accept returns.
Thus an attempt to use.
Bob
 
Thank you. Do you know if there are internal connections inside the two pumping port actions, what I mean the two larger ports are for draining, and the smaller ports are for lint filter, if the smaller ports are not used, or left open, would water action flow from the internal larger ports into the smaller ports. I have the four port, and really only need the two port, thus I hope I could still use the pump and just close off the smaller ports. I have attached photo's showing the smaller port blocked...Just don't wish to have a disaster of water flooding the laundry room.
Thanks you for your feedback..Bob
Probably not ... based on point that the intake for the recirculation was a separate hose connection at side of the outer tub (below the lowest fill level), and water would continue to recirculate into the tub during drain until the water level in the tub dropped below that intake port. But I can't 100% say for sure. Perhaps Combo52 can confirm.

Your method of sealing-off the recirculation ports on the pump seems workable. If there's is no connection between the two section, then no concern for leakage anyway. Whirlpool used the same basic method on a later 3-port pump revision that worked on both models with manual-clean recirculating filters and models with self-cleaning (but non-recirculating) comb filters attached under the spin basket. Instead of a separate recirculating lower section, the pump has a small port on one side of the flapper valve housing such that water feeds through it when the valve is positioned for draining (agitate mode). A rubber cap and clamp is provided (pre-mounted, as I recall when working at the local WP dealer) to seal the small port on machines with the self-clean filters. The servicer removed the cap to attach the recirculation hose if required.
 

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