New Speed Queen Top Loader; what re rinse cycle Temp. options?
- Thread starter pumice
- Start date
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Looks like a couple feet of wire should do it. Timer is on right side of panel, temp switch on left. Iv'e not done this mod. As far as I know, there is no wire connected to terminal R so you would have to add one. If your handy, this should be no big deal.
Yes, that would be without doing the other mod. You can buy individual terminals for the timer connector. Speed Queen part number 00188. You might want to confirm that terminal V connects to terminal R when timer is in rinse mode. According to wiring diagram and timer chart, it does.
Here's how to modify a SpeedQueen AWN542 to get a warm r
Rinse temperature modification instructions for the Speed Queen AWN542
These directions were written for the Speed Queen AWN542SP assuming the person doing the repair is standing in front of the machine at the time of the repair. Time needed is fifteen minutes or less.
1. PULL THE PLUG! Cut any electrical connection to the washer before you do anything else.
2. Using a ¼ inch socket, remove the 3 screws at the top and behind the console. You only need to remove 3 screws; one in the middle and one at each end. All three screws are vertical. Remember to turn them to the LEFT to loosen and RIGHT to tighten. (When you’re done and buttoning up, tighten these screws VERY gently. When starting them into the hole it helps to gently rock the console back and forth just a bit to help the screws find their grooves.)
Once the screws are removed and the console is loose, very gently roll the top of the console back towards you paying very close attention to any strain on the wires inside. Don’t ever place a strain on any wires.
3. Use the pliers to pull the Black/Pink wire off of terminal #4 then tape it securely with electrical tape, covering it so that it can never come in contact with any metal surface. Fold it over and tape it again to be sure. Use a very small electrical zip tie to secure the tape so that it will never come loose.
4. Locate the grey wire, which you will notice goes down the thru-hole to the motor with the rest of the wires. When you cut the grey wire, cut it far enough to your right so that you leave the grey wire leading up out of the thru-hole long enough that it has plenty of slack when it attaches to terminal #4 in order to avoid ever having a strain on it which could cause you much grief later on. This will leave the grey wire leading from the timer short so add wire to it using a 12 inch piece of either grey or yellow (grey is hard to find so I suggest yellow as there is no other yellow wire in the harness) wire using an 18 gauge insulated butt-splice crimp connector. Strip 3/8 inch of plastic off of each wire for the butt connection.
5. Locate the single grey wire that leads up from the thru-hole and strip ¼ inch of plastic covering off of the end. Twist the wire strands together and insert it into the 18 gauge female connector opening and crimp it, then connect it to terminal 4.
6. Use the pliers to pull the black/blue wire off of terminal L and cut off the connector as close as you can in order to leave the wire as long as possible. Strip 1/4 inch of the plastic cover off and twist the wire strands. Join (twist) the black/blue wire to the grey (or now yellow) wire that leads from the timer mechanism and insert both into the 16 gauge female connector and crimp together. (if you like you can trim some of the extra wire from the 12 inch piece that you added earlier before you join it with the black/blue wire but make sure you don’t cut it too short) Now that the black/blue wire and the grey (or now yellow) wire are joined, connect to L.
This is how it should look when you’re finished –
A. The grey wire that leads up from thru hole is connected to 4.
B. The red wire never moves from terminal 3.
C. The black/pink wire is tapped off securely and out of the way.
D. The black/blue + Grey (or now yellow) wire from timer is connected to L.
You will now have a hot water rinse when you set the wash temp to hot, a warm rinse when set to a warm wash and a cold rinse when set to a cold wash.
Tools and parts you will need:
One female 18 gauge non-insulated push on wire connector
One female 16 gauge non-insulated push on wire connector
One male push on wire connector
One 18 gauge insulated butt connector.
a wire stripper
a wire crimper
a small pair of square nose pliers
a small wire cutter
a 1/4 inch socket and driver
a one foot long piece of grey or yellow insulated 18 gauge stranded insulated wire
a knife or scissors
a very small electrical zip tie to cinch around the end of the taped up back/pink wire to insure the electrical tape never comes loose.
a flashlight or work light and someone to hold it for you
Electrical tape
Tips:
1. Sometimes wire connectors have hidden ‘burrs’ on them so you should ‘exercise’ the wire connectors before you start by inserting a male connector into the female connector to insure that there are no burrs in the female connector. You’ll only be installing the female connectors onto the terminals but a male is needed for the ‘exercise’. By fitting them together once or twice you’ll remove any potential burrs which will make connecting them to the washers terminals much gentler, greatly lessening the risk of doing any harm to a terminal.
2. Because insulated connectors are a bit more common you might find it easier to find and buy insulated connectors and then use a sharp knife to cut the plastic insulation off. Remember to leave the insulation on the butt connector. High heat connectors are probably the best quality.
3. Using a sharp knife to cut off the plastic wire covering is a very common rookie mistake and a bad idea. (learn from my mistakes) It’s very difficult to strip wire with a knife without cutting some of the copper strands and you don’t want to lose any so make sure you use a good quality wire stripper to cut the plastic wire insulation. Once you cut the plastic, gently pull the cut plastic off with your fingers rather than using the stripper to pull the plastic off because you'll lose far fewer wire strands by using your fingers.
4. If you intend to leave your washer in place for this repair (as I did) you’ll find a mirror very handy to see where the screws are located on the back of the control panel.
Rinse temperature modification instructions for the Speed Queen AWN542
These directions were written for the Speed Queen AWN542SP assuming the person doing the repair is standing in front of the machine at the time of the repair. Time needed is fifteen minutes or less.
1. PULL THE PLUG! Cut any electrical connection to the washer before you do anything else.
2. Using a ¼ inch socket, remove the 3 screws at the top and behind the console. You only need to remove 3 screws; one in the middle and one at each end. All three screws are vertical. Remember to turn them to the LEFT to loosen and RIGHT to tighten. (When you’re done and buttoning up, tighten these screws VERY gently. When starting them into the hole it helps to gently rock the console back and forth just a bit to help the screws find their grooves.)
Once the screws are removed and the console is loose, very gently roll the top of the console back towards you paying very close attention to any strain on the wires inside. Don’t ever place a strain on any wires.
3. Use the pliers to pull the Black/Pink wire off of terminal #4 then tape it securely with electrical tape, covering it so that it can never come in contact with any metal surface. Fold it over and tape it again to be sure. Use a very small electrical zip tie to secure the tape so that it will never come loose.
4. Locate the grey wire, which you will notice goes down the thru-hole to the motor with the rest of the wires. When you cut the grey wire, cut it far enough to your right so that you leave the grey wire leading up out of the thru-hole long enough that it has plenty of slack when it attaches to terminal #4 in order to avoid ever having a strain on it which could cause you much grief later on. This will leave the grey wire leading from the timer short so add wire to it using a 12 inch piece of either grey or yellow (grey is hard to find so I suggest yellow as there is no other yellow wire in the harness) wire using an 18 gauge insulated butt-splice crimp connector. Strip 3/8 inch of plastic off of each wire for the butt connection.
5. Locate the single grey wire that leads up from the thru-hole and strip ¼ inch of plastic covering off of the end. Twist the wire strands together and insert it into the 18 gauge female connector opening and crimp it, then connect it to terminal 4.
6. Use the pliers to pull the black/blue wire off of terminal L and cut off the connector as close as you can in order to leave the wire as long as possible. Strip 1/4 inch of the plastic cover off and twist the wire strands. Join (twist) the black/blue wire to the grey (or now yellow) wire that leads from the timer mechanism and insert both into the 16 gauge female connector and crimp together. (if you like you can trim some of the extra wire from the 12 inch piece that you added earlier before you join it with the black/blue wire but make sure you don’t cut it too short) Now that the black/blue wire and the grey (or now yellow) wire are joined, connect to L.
This is how it should look when you’re finished –
A. The grey wire that leads up from thru hole is connected to 4.
B. The red wire never moves from terminal 3.
C. The black/pink wire is tapped off securely and out of the way.
D. The black/blue + Grey (or now yellow) wire from timer is connected to L.
You will now have a hot water rinse when you set the wash temp to hot, a warm rinse when set to a warm wash and a cold rinse when set to a cold wash.
Tools and parts you will need:
One female 18 gauge non-insulated push on wire connector
One female 16 gauge non-insulated push on wire connector
One male push on wire connector
One 18 gauge insulated butt connector.
a wire stripper
a wire crimper
a small pair of square nose pliers
a small wire cutter
a 1/4 inch socket and driver
a one foot long piece of grey or yellow insulated 18 gauge stranded insulated wire
a knife or scissors
a very small electrical zip tie to cinch around the end of the taped up back/pink wire to insure the electrical tape never comes loose.
a flashlight or work light and someone to hold it for you
Electrical tape
Tips:
1. Sometimes wire connectors have hidden ‘burrs’ on them so you should ‘exercise’ the wire connectors before you start by inserting a male connector into the female connector to insure that there are no burrs in the female connector. You’ll only be installing the female connectors onto the terminals but a male is needed for the ‘exercise’. By fitting them together once or twice you’ll remove any potential burrs which will make connecting them to the washers terminals much gentler, greatly lessening the risk of doing any harm to a terminal.
2. Because insulated connectors are a bit more common you might find it easier to find and buy insulated connectors and then use a sharp knife to cut the plastic insulation off. Remember to leave the insulation on the butt connector. High heat connectors are probably the best quality.
3. Using a sharp knife to cut off the plastic wire covering is a very common rookie mistake and a bad idea. (learn from my mistakes) It’s very difficult to strip wire with a knife without cutting some of the copper strands and you don’t want to lose any so make sure you use a good quality wire stripper to cut the plastic wire insulation. Once you cut the plastic, gently pull the cut plastic off with your fingers rather than using the stripper to pull the plastic off because you'll lose far fewer wire strands by using your fingers.
4. If you intend to leave your washer in place for this repair (as I did) you’ll find a mirror very handy to see where the screws are located on the back of the control panel.
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huebschman
Well-known member
Rince temp
I read this post diagonally and if someone mentioned it before... sorry ... but do no invert in cold/hot inlet. You'll end up with a flimsy spray rince due to the hot water restrictor since spray rinces are cold (spray rince could already be longer/better than what it is now) and that will make you want to use a 2nd rince.
I read this post diagonally and if someone mentioned it before... sorry ... but do no invert in cold/hot inlet. You'll end up with a flimsy spray rince due to the hot water restrictor since spray rinces are cold (spray rince could already be longer/better than what it is now) and that will make you want to use a 2nd rince.
Placing issues in some kind of rational perspective, using the warm rinse option on a domestic washer is a relatively benign action in comparison to uncontrolled breeding, chemical and conventional warfare, poor hygiene and sanitation, disposal of millions of tons of trash into waterways and our oceans daily, poor economic management based on the unsustainable continued growth model etc.. Throw into this mix globalization, which legitimates slave labor and contributes greatly to environmental pollution - the list is inexhaustible.
My Speed Queen does do warm water rinses and I do use them a lot without any personal feelings of guilt whatsoever. Guilt is for Catholics and I renounced that faith a long time ago. BTW, I like the idea of a warmer planet. Evidence supports the scientific view that a warmer planet will be a much greener and fecund planet. Think of it this way, warmer planet = less need for heating. More fun in the sun and more people engaged in outdoor activities. Fewer clothes required resulting in fewer laundry loads and you can extrapolate this rationale ad infinitum.
My Speed Queen does do warm water rinses and I do use them a lot without any personal feelings of guilt whatsoever. Guilt is for Catholics and I renounced that faith a long time ago. BTW, I like the idea of a warmer planet. Evidence supports the scientific view that a warmer planet will be a much greener and fecund planet. Think of it this way, warmer planet = less need for heating. More fun in the sun and more people engaged in outdoor activities. Fewer clothes required resulting in fewer laundry loads and you can extrapolate this rationale ad infinitum.
@rapunzel
Just don't let anyone know that as an Australian, (and one in Sydney, at that)...
(Where's the "spoiler" pop-open?)
You have access to a 'relatively abundant*' supply of solar-heated water
*Thats economics talk, seeing as you brought it up. Hot water is technically a scarce resource, after all
Unless... You leave the electric boost on all the time as recommended to "reduce the legionella risk" (And technically having it off is breaking the law, if you go by that. Gee, I feel the need for confession coming on again!)
Just don't let anyone know that as an Australian, (and one in Sydney, at that)...
(Where's the "spoiler" pop-open?)
You have access to a 'relatively abundant*' supply of solar-heated water
*Thats economics talk, seeing as you brought it up. Hot water is technically a scarce resource, after all
Unless... You leave the electric boost on all the time as recommended to "reduce the legionella risk" (And technically having it off is breaking the law, if you go by that. Gee, I feel the need for confession coming on again!)
I've got gas hot water, but am thinking of geothermal down the road. Apparently I can heat the pool, spa, have central heating/cooling and hot water using that. The solar panels don't do much for my electricity bill. Right now I am still getting the rebate that was introduced under Labor, but that's coming to an end in a year or two and I am not all that keen to spend thousands on more solar panels if it only saves me another fifty or hundred bucks a quarter.
(Off-Topic) - @rapunzel
I have to wonder how cool the ground must be if ground-source cooling actually works... Trouble would be the dehumidification of the air that would annoy me, not necessarily the temperature.
The idea of being able to heat everything under the sun from geothermal would be great though. I'd sign up to that, since you can cut down a big amount of 'energy' consumption. Would be nice to go swimming in a warm pool on a frigid day, too!
Personally, I feel the solar panels are a bit of a ripoff at the moment. And as more people take up the offer, electricity charges go up (Something has to pay for what people are generating, and "giving back" to the grid, right?).
Several towns around here have reached quota, and there are many furious residents who would have liked to contribute (I mean, we get the most annual, average sunshine on the planet), but couldn't because our power company pulled the plug!
I have to wonder how cool the ground must be if ground-source cooling actually works... Trouble would be the dehumidification of the air that would annoy me, not necessarily the temperature.
The idea of being able to heat everything under the sun from geothermal would be great though. I'd sign up to that, since you can cut down a big amount of 'energy' consumption. Would be nice to go swimming in a warm pool on a frigid day, too!
Personally, I feel the solar panels are a bit of a ripoff at the moment. And as more people take up the offer, electricity charges go up (Something has to pay for what people are generating, and "giving back" to the grid, right?).
Several towns around here have reached quota, and there are many furious residents who would have liked to contribute (I mean, we get the most annual, average sunshine on the planet), but couldn't because our power company pulled the plug!
"do no invert in cold/hot inlet. You'll end up with a flimsy spray rince due to the hot water restrictor since spray rinces are cold (spray rince could already be longer/better than what it is now) and that will make you want to use a 2nd rince."
The spray function is actually during the spin cycle of the wash cycle, not the rinse cycle although it is a cold water spray regardless of temp switch setting. With the wiring mod, if your temp is set to warm, you would get a warm spray with both hot and cold valves on which would give the highest amount of water for spray. If you want a hot wash and warm rinse, you would need to change the temp switch over to warm directly after the washer has finished filling with hot water in the wash cycle. If you really want a hot rinse, you would then need to switch back to hot sometime between end of spray and beginning of rinse fill.
The spray function is actually during the spin cycle of the wash cycle, not the rinse cycle although it is a cold water spray regardless of temp switch setting. With the wiring mod, if your temp is set to warm, you would get a warm spray with both hot and cold valves on which would give the highest amount of water for spray. If you want a hot wash and warm rinse, you would need to change the temp switch over to warm directly after the washer has finished filling with hot water in the wash cycle. If you really want a hot rinse, you would then need to switch back to hot sometime between end of spray and beginning of rinse fill.
LWN311SP111TW01 No hot water
I was interested in doing the wiring changes to my SQ but the colors and wiring diagram does not match my machine. I have only cold. I don't think there is even a small amount of hot water. The envioro Natzis did a great job on the machine. I don't use hot very often but when I do I want and need it.
I was interested in doing the wiring changes to my SQ but the colors and wiring diagram does not match my machine. I have only cold. I don't think there is even a small amount of hot water. The envioro Natzis did a great job on the machine. I don't use hot very often but when I do I want and need it.
Post a pic of your machines wiring diagram if you need a conversion. 
If you truly are not getting any hot water in the wash fill your fill valve screens may be clogged. If your not getting any hot water in the rinse, that is normal. All the Speed Queens that I know of fill with tap cold in the rinse cycle.
If you truly are not getting any hot water in the wash fill your fill valve screens may be clogged. If your not getting any hot water in the rinse, that is normal. All the Speed Queens that I know of fill with tap cold in the rinse cycle.
