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Derp. Haha. Oops. I should’ve scrolled up.

In that case, I don’t understand the purge behavior OP speaks of. Partial drain and fill. That’s only Voyager behavior to me. Unless WP radically changed the behavior of their Tahoe platform very recently.
 
tahoe wash system

I have the Tahoe wash system of this dishwasher. I was shocked at how well it cleaned the insides of my mom's glasses. After my mom got rid of the point voyager and gave it to my dad, she got the Kenmore plastic tub model. I was shocked to find that alternating wash arms did the trick. It did purge the pump several times before doing two rinses. I still wonder how they came up with this wash system. Maybe lots of engineers - hundreds of them along with scientists and the like.
 
Normal wash...

Running the normal wash now with high temp wash and heated dry options on a very dirty load. It did three pre-rinses and two purges before it went into the main wash. I don't think it's done three pre-rinses yet. If the normal wash senses the load, what's the difference between the normal wash and the sensor wash?

I'm very happy with this dishwasher. And I'm having fun reading older threads from folks like murando531 who have versions of this dishwasher.
 
I found the fan...

The fan exhausts at the left bottom of the door. I noticed it goes on throughout the wash cycle. It seems to go on every time the top wash arm is going, which is only for a minute or so then the bottom arm goes for several minutes (maybe it's the other way around, it was hard to tell since it's so quiet). The fan turns on during the drying phase and stays on after the clean light goes on when the cycle is complete. Not sure how long it stays on after the cycle is finished. There are photos of the vent fan assembly online and the fan itself it looks like a computer fan.
 
Good to know it stays on for an hour, thanks Bob!

For a $400 dishwasher, I have to say I'm very impressed with how well it washes and how quiet it is. The stainless interior door is really nice. I wish the whole interior was stainless, but then it would have cost $100 more.
 
First issue...

I found this little rubber thingy on the floor by the dishwasher. I googled "rubber thing on floor in front of Whirlpool dishwasher" and see this is a friction pad, a poorly engineered part to say the least. Does Whirlpool seriously think these little rubber parts will last the life of an appliance? Mine lasted 3 months.

I sent WP a message through their website explaining the situation and giving them the part number. I asked if they would send me the part as it seems easy to repair myself.

Other than that, I have been happy with the performance of it. It cleans well, holds a lot and is very forgiving of Bob loads. The thing I HATE is the terrible screech the top rack makes anytime you move it though.

littlegreeny-2020062217374804002_1.jpg
 
Rubber parts

This is why I replaced my old Whirlpool DW. We had 2 seals disintegrate within a period of a year after 7 years of moderate use. If there are seals falling apart inside of the machine that I am finding, it certainly does not lead to confidence with the seals in other locations of the machine that I can't see.

Do you find that this machine drys well? We have a similar machine at my University in our program. That machine does not dry well at all, even using Sanitize rinse and heated dry. Our Bosch without an exposed heating element and not using a sanitize rinse drys significantly better.
 
Drying

It's okay at drying. When the cycle is first finished, items are hot but wet. I open up the door about two inches immediately after the cycle finishes to let everything flash dry so 99% of the items are dry within an hour. I have started loads in the late evening and waited until morning to open the door and pretty much everything is dry by then. I use the sensor cycle with high-temp wash and heated dry.

Did your WP leak before you replaced it with the Bosch?
 
That rubber fitting is on both sides of the door hinge on all WP models with plastic tubs, and if it scrubs against anything like the side of the cabinet like a shim or trim piece, it'll cause extra friction than normal. Sometimes the issue is in the frame or hinge itself, and while not an actual "problem", if the hinge arm is moving too closely against the smooth part of the frame where it's designed to act as a snubber pad, it will instead cause a scissor effect and tear the pad itself. My Maytag 4709 model had the right side fall off after about 6 months, and I actually ordered a little pack with two spares, but I repaired the old one with super glue and put a little on the undamaged side too as reinforcement, and it lasted the entire remainder of time I had the machine until it went to my father-in-law's about five years ago, where it seems to still be holding to this day. Interestingly, I had a 520 model for a while for testing that never lost either of its pads, and a 710 model that is now living with our old house that we just moved from, also with no problem from the pads. And now we're in an apartment with a Kenmore badged WP 520 equivalent that also has both pads still.

If you take the kick plate off the machine, and if you're dexterous enough in tight spaces, you shouldn't have to pull the machine out or dismount it. Just reach up and unlink the spring coupler off the hinge arm (just BE CAREFUL to firmly hold it and lower it to prevent it slipping and popping your hand), slip the new or repaired snubber pad over the hinge, and hook the spring coupler back on.

Otherwise, you could slide the machine out just a few inches and it'll take 60 seconds to fix. In this case, since you'll have it out, check to see if the hinge arm is bent at all towards the frame (this can happen commonly in shipping) you could try just slightly straightening it back out and that will reduce the chance that the opening/closing is going to cleave the snubber again.
 
Andrew

Thanks so much for your tips and advice! I might have a tube of super glue around. If I find it, I'll try repairing the pad and reinstalling it without dismounting the machine. I was almost able to reach the spot without removing the kick plate.
 
Sorry, just seeing this

The Whirlpool was not leaking externally when it was replaced. The reason ended up being finding the one seal from the adjustable rack was in very bad shape, and we could only use the highest rack level because of it. The other seal I could not find where it was from. That was the one that made me very uncomfortable. Not to mention that the machine never really cleaned all that well, and the one deep rinse was not all that adequate. The machine had a lot of cavitation issues especially during the wash. For some weird reason Whirlpool decided to add a little rinse aid in the wash cycle of this machine, and it kicked the suds up quite a bit. It was annoying that we could not use rinse-aid to assist with drying because it caused so many issues. I almost want to try and remove the fill flow limit valve, and see if that would help some of the situation. I know the purge certainly would benefit from a little more water. I even tried to clean the chopper filter to see if that helped, and it didn't.
 
Mine has the standard lower spray arm which does a fantastic job getting everything clean.

Since my last post WP sent me the friction pad and I replaced it in about 10 minutes. No issues with anything since then.

The sensor wash with heated dry does an excellent job cleaning and my dishes are very hot and flash dry in just a few minutes. Overall, I am very happy with this dishwasher. It's used heavily anywhere from 1-3 loads per day.

I feel it was a relative bargain at $399 and still haven't seen it anywhere near that price since then.
 
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