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Rubber parts

This is why I replaced my old Whirlpool DW. We had 2 seals disintegrate within a period of a year after 7 years of moderate use. If there are seals falling apart inside of the machine that I am finding, it certainly does not lead to confidence with the seals in other locations of the machine that I can't see.

Do you find that this machine drys well? We have a similar machine at my University in our program. That machine does not dry well at all, even using Sanitize rinse and heated dry. Our Bosch without an exposed heating element and not using a sanitize rinse drys significantly better.
 
Drying

It's okay at drying. When the cycle is first finished, items are hot but wet. I open up the door about two inches immediately after the cycle finishes to let everything flash dry so 99% of the items are dry within an hour. I have started loads in the late evening and waited until morning to open the door and pretty much everything is dry by then. I use the sensor cycle with high-temp wash and heated dry.

Did your WP leak before you replaced it with the Bosch?
 
That rubber fitting is on both sides of the door hinge on all WP models with plastic tubs, and if it scrubs against anything like the side of the cabinet like a shim or trim piece, it'll cause extra friction than normal. Sometimes the issue is in the frame or hinge itself, and while not an actual "problem", if the hinge arm is moving too closely against the smooth part of the frame where it's designed to act as a snubber pad, it will instead cause a scissor effect and tear the pad itself. My Maytag 4709 model had the right side fall off after about 6 months, and I actually ordered a little pack with two spares, but I repaired the old one with super glue and put a little on the undamaged side too as reinforcement, and it lasted the entire remainder of time I had the machine until it went to my father-in-law's about five years ago, where it seems to still be holding to this day. Interestingly, I had a 520 model for a while for testing that never lost either of its pads, and a 710 model that is now living with our old house that we just moved from, also with no problem from the pads. And now we're in an apartment with a Kenmore badged WP 520 equivalent that also has both pads still.

If you take the kick plate off the machine, and if you're dexterous enough in tight spaces, you shouldn't have to pull the machine out or dismount it. Just reach up and unlink the spring coupler off the hinge arm (just BE CAREFUL to firmly hold it and lower it to prevent it slipping and popping your hand), slip the new or repaired snubber pad over the hinge, and hook the spring coupler back on.

Otherwise, you could slide the machine out just a few inches and it'll take 60 seconds to fix. In this case, since you'll have it out, check to see if the hinge arm is bent at all towards the frame (this can happen commonly in shipping) you could try just slightly straightening it back out and that will reduce the chance that the opening/closing is going to cleave the snubber again.
 
Andrew

Thanks so much for your tips and advice! I might have a tube of super glue around. If I find it, I'll try repairing the pad and reinstalling it without dismounting the machine. I was almost able to reach the spot without removing the kick plate.
 
Sorry, just seeing this

The Whirlpool was not leaking externally when it was replaced. The reason ended up being finding the one seal from the adjustable rack was in very bad shape, and we could only use the highest rack level because of it. The other seal I could not find where it was from. That was the one that made me very uncomfortable. Not to mention that the machine never really cleaned all that well, and the one deep rinse was not all that adequate. The machine had a lot of cavitation issues especially during the wash. For some weird reason Whirlpool decided to add a little rinse aid in the wash cycle of this machine, and it kicked the suds up quite a bit. It was annoying that we could not use rinse-aid to assist with drying because it caused so many issues. I almost want to try and remove the fill flow limit valve, and see if that would help some of the situation. I know the purge certainly would benefit from a little more water. I even tried to clean the chopper filter to see if that helped, and it didn't.
 
Mine has the standard lower spray arm which does a fantastic job getting everything clean.

Since my last post WP sent me the friction pad and I replaced it in about 10 minutes. No issues with anything since then.

The sensor wash with heated dry does an excellent job cleaning and my dishes are very hot and flash dry in just a few minutes. Overall, I am very happy with this dishwasher. It's used heavily anywhere from 1-3 loads per day.

I feel it was a relative bargain at $399 and still haven't seen it anywhere near that price since then.
 
A Damn Good Dishwasher.......

.....these days, this seems to be Whirlpool's strong suit.

If our GE Profile Triton ever decides to fail, we would be willing to go back to one of the Whirlpool variants. The Triton is still going strong since 2002. Only replaced 2 sumps over nearly 20 years.

Outside of the warranty period, no repairperson is allowed in our house.
 
Not filling with enough water

The frequency of the wash pump was always changing, like it was cavitating. Today I decided to add a few cups of water and the sound stopped. It was finally washing with no strange frequency changes.

Now, are WP dishwashers known to cavitate? Should I be concerned? Wondering if perhaps I should check the inlet screen at the fill valve or maybe the fill valve needs replacing? It cavitates during all wash/rinse periods.
 
New whirlpool dishwasher?

As always, it would be very helpful to have a model number when you’re asking questions about a machine.

In general, you could have a bad inlet valve, the likelihood of the screen being blocked is about Neil unless you’re having extreme problems with blocky just throughout your house on things that use hot water, showerhead, faucets, etc.

I don’t think the dishwasher should be making a cavitating or surging sound when running.

John
 
Thanks John.

The model number was listed further up the thread; it's #WDT730PAHZ0.

Obviously it's not new anymore, I've had it 3.5 years. It's made this sound for as long as I can remember. I was near it last night tidying up and on a whim decided to add more water.

I'm just not sure what I should do. It cleans really well with the little water it uses. I just don't want its lifespan to be shorter because the wash pump is struggling from lack of water unless it's operating as designed???
 
The parts diagram and list I found says it's a single phase wash pump, so probably single speed.

If it's always done it, and it cleans, I would say it works as designed.

Given a replacement wash pump isn't even 70$, tearing into something and trying to fix something that might not even be an issue, seems just like not worth the hazzle.
 
Thanks Henrik

You bring up good points that perhaps it's not worth it. But I do find the noise it makes annoying. I guess it's not full on cavitating but you can tell it's pulling in some air as it's running, which changes the frequency or cadence of the sound the wash motor makes. I thought maybe the filter was the cause and keep it pretty spotless so it's not because of that if anyone was wondering. It's definitely a low water level in the tub.

I'm curious if anyone else who has a fairly new Whirlpool-made dishwasher noticed a different cadence from the wash pump?
 
Thanks John!

Yes, I'd very much appreciate if you'd provide me the part number.

By the way, I'm running the one hour wash cycle now and it's not making that sound. It must use more water per fill. I don't typically use this cycle unless I'm doing a lot of cooking. I should probably use it more often.
 
Cavitating pump

When you hear this cavitation, do you ever open the door and see if the bottom is full of suds? When I had my Kitchen Aid, some dishwasher pods, in particular Cascade Platinum, would cause a fair amount sudsing to occur and as a result, the pump would cavitate. Generally by the final rinse the suds would be cleared out and it would be running normally. In another instance where I would notice it cavitate is when the machine was packed full. Though it would seem to sense this an add more water in small increments, until the pressure remained constant.

All the best,
Chris
 

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