Nice Old Hotpoint At work Today
- Thread starter electron1100
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matchboxpaul
Well-known member
Hi Gary.
I can see the cracked piece now. To be honest, even cracked like that, your dial is still in great shape. They tended to accumulate grease and all sorts of rubbish between the plastic dial front and metal disk which detailed the programmes. Will have a look for one though.
Dial Replacement (this is a right mouthful!)...
if you do find a replacement dial, and come to fit it (I might be telling you what you already know), you need to remove the centre disc of the dial, to gain access to the dial locking disk.
The shiny centre of the dial is effectively a hub cap, held on with a sticky pad.
Push gently on the edge of this hub cap to deflect it slightly, enabling you to get something behind it at the opposite side (a teaspoon would probably do).
Gently tug the hub cap away from the centre of the dial - it should peel away quite easily.
Once removed, this will reveal either the sticky pad left behind (remove this) or a clean locking disk, with a groove running across it.
To see what I mean, scroll up a bit to look at Lee's 18680 programmer dial photo, which has had the shiny disk removed and shows the groove running across the centre.
Take a 2p or 50p piece, insert the edge of the coin in the groove, and turn gently anti-clockise. It should move about half a centimetre to the left and your dial should be unlocked.
The locking disk can be removed (its a seperate component) and the dial should simply now pull away from the machine and slip off the programmer shaft.
The variable spin dial is simply pushed onto the shaft - a bit of tugging should result in this pulling away from the machine. You dont need to remove the hub cap from this dial.
If ever you needed to remove the entire front off the machine, you need to remove the powder drawer (a gentle tug) and the dial(s) to gain access to the screws that hold the facia to the machine.
Removal of the facia will reveal the top front panel screws.
All just fits together, with each set of panel screws being hidden under another component - front panel screws hidden behind the facia panel and the facia panel screws being hidden behind the dial (and powder drawer).
I only mention all this because of the number of 18-series washers and 17-series dryers I have seen, with ruined dial locking disks as people have fought with them to get them off.
That really is one great 18580 - still havent got over it.
Paul
I can see the cracked piece now. To be honest, even cracked like that, your dial is still in great shape. They tended to accumulate grease and all sorts of rubbish between the plastic dial front and metal disk which detailed the programmes. Will have a look for one though.
Dial Replacement (this is a right mouthful!)...
if you do find a replacement dial, and come to fit it (I might be telling you what you already know), you need to remove the centre disc of the dial, to gain access to the dial locking disk.
The shiny centre of the dial is effectively a hub cap, held on with a sticky pad.
Push gently on the edge of this hub cap to deflect it slightly, enabling you to get something behind it at the opposite side (a teaspoon would probably do).
Gently tug the hub cap away from the centre of the dial - it should peel away quite easily.
Once removed, this will reveal either the sticky pad left behind (remove this) or a clean locking disk, with a groove running across it.
To see what I mean, scroll up a bit to look at Lee's 18680 programmer dial photo, which has had the shiny disk removed and shows the groove running across the centre.
Take a 2p or 50p piece, insert the edge of the coin in the groove, and turn gently anti-clockise. It should move about half a centimetre to the left and your dial should be unlocked.
The locking disk can be removed (its a seperate component) and the dial should simply now pull away from the machine and slip off the programmer shaft.
The variable spin dial is simply pushed onto the shaft - a bit of tugging should result in this pulling away from the machine. You dont need to remove the hub cap from this dial.
If ever you needed to remove the entire front off the machine, you need to remove the powder drawer (a gentle tug) and the dial(s) to gain access to the screws that hold the facia to the machine.
Removal of the facia will reveal the top front panel screws.
All just fits together, with each set of panel screws being hidden under another component - front panel screws hidden behind the facia panel and the facia panel screws being hidden behind the dial (and powder drawer).
I only mention all this because of the number of 18-series washers and 17-series dryers I have seen, with ruined dial locking disks as people have fought with them to get them off.
That really is one great 18580 - still havent got over it.
Paul
Hi Paul,
thanks for that info mate.
I was wondering how it came off as I had given it a bit of a tug and it wasn't moving.
Unfortunately it got broken by the removal man when he moved it into my house.
It is a shame because it was mint beforehand.
I have been in touch with Mark about the motor so fingers crossed he can help me out.
Cheers,
Gary.
thanks for that info mate.
I was wondering how it came off as I had given it a bit of a tug and it wasn't moving.
Unfortunately it got broken by the removal man when he moved it into my house.
It is a shame because it was mint beforehand.
I have been in touch with Mark about the motor so fingers crossed he can help me out.
Cheers,
Gary.
matchboxpaul
Well-known member
No probs Gary.
Cracked dial = nothing in the grand scheme of things. You can hardly tell in the pics.
Machine is still a stunner.
Forgot to mention - should you ever come to remove the dial:
take care not to bend the shiny hub cap, when pulling it away - take your time - you shouldnt have to fight it.
the variable spin dial will be a VERY tight fit - a swine to pull off and equally a swine to put back on.
the programmer dial will only go back on the machine in a certain position, so you shouldnt have to worry about misaligning the programmes. Just check this though, with the individual machine.
fingers crossed for the motor!
cheers
Paul
Cracked dial = nothing in the grand scheme of things. You can hardly tell in the pics.
Machine is still a stunner.
Forgot to mention - should you ever come to remove the dial:
take care not to bend the shiny hub cap, when pulling it away - take your time - you shouldnt have to fight it.
the variable spin dial will be a VERY tight fit - a swine to pull off and equally a swine to put back on.
the programmer dial will only go back on the machine in a certain position, so you shouldnt have to worry about misaligning the programmes. Just check this though, with the individual machine.
fingers crossed for the motor!
cheers
Paul
Hi Freddie19,
parts requires are:
motor = 1614108
8 way plug conversion kit = 169309
This motor is compatible with:
MDA 1604810 HOTPOINT 1824**, 1827**, 1828/02**, 1828/07**, 18331**, 18331/9**, 18340**, 18361**, 18370**, 18371**, 18380**, 1842**, 1848**, 18580**, 18680**, 18780**, 18871**, 18872**, 18873**, 18880**, 9530A**, 9530W**, 9531W**, 9533P**, 9533W**, 9534A**, 9534P**, 9534W**, 9535A**, 9535P**, 9535W**, 9536A**, 9536P**, 9536W**, 9537A**, 9537P**, 9537PE**, 9537W**, 9538A**, 9538P**, 9538PE**, 9538PF**, 9538W**, 9539A**, 9539P**, 9539W**, 9540A**, 9540P**, 9540W**, 9544A**, 9544P**, 9544W**, 95470**, 95472**, 95490**, 95492**, 9550A**, 9550W**, 9551A**, 9551W**, 9554A**, 9554P**, 9554W**, 9555A**, 9555P**, 9555W**, 95620**, 95622**, 9574P**, 9574W**, 9577A**, 9577P**, 9577W**, 9578P**, 95840**, 95842**, 9770P**, 9775A**, 9775W**, 9777P**, 9900A**, 9900W**, 9901A**, 9901P**, 9901W**, 9912P**, 9912W**, 9916P**, 9916W**, 9925A**, 9925P**, 9925W**, 9926A**, 9926P**, 9926W**, 9928A**, 9928P**, 9928W**, 9934A**, 9934P**, 9934W**, 9970A**, 9970W**, 9971A**, 9971W**, 9972A**, 9972P**, 9972W**, WD21P**, WD22A**, WD22P**, WD22W**, WD23A**, WD23P**, WD23W**, WM20A**, WM20P**, WM20W**, WM21P**, WM21W**, WM22A**, WM22P**, WM22W**, WM23A**, WM23P**, WM23W**
hope that helps
parts requires are:
motor = 1614108
8 way plug conversion kit = 169309
This motor is compatible with:
MDA 1604810 HOTPOINT 1824**, 1827**, 1828/02**, 1828/07**, 18331**, 18331/9**, 18340**, 18361**, 18370**, 18371**, 18380**, 1842**, 1848**, 18580**, 18680**, 18780**, 18871**, 18872**, 18873**, 18880**, 9530A**, 9530W**, 9531W**, 9533P**, 9533W**, 9534A**, 9534P**, 9534W**, 9535A**, 9535P**, 9535W**, 9536A**, 9536P**, 9536W**, 9537A**, 9537P**, 9537PE**, 9537W**, 9538A**, 9538P**, 9538PE**, 9538PF**, 9538W**, 9539A**, 9539P**, 9539W**, 9540A**, 9540P**, 9540W**, 9544A**, 9544P**, 9544W**, 95470**, 95472**, 95490**, 95492**, 9550A**, 9550W**, 9551A**, 9551W**, 9554A**, 9554P**, 9554W**, 9555A**, 9555P**, 9555W**, 95620**, 95622**, 9574P**, 9574W**, 9577A**, 9577P**, 9577W**, 9578P**, 95840**, 95842**, 9770P**, 9775A**, 9775W**, 9777P**, 9900A**, 9900W**, 9901A**, 9901P**, 9901W**, 9912P**, 9912W**, 9916P**, 9916W**, 9925A**, 9925P**, 9925W**, 9926A**, 9926P**, 9926W**, 9928A**, 9928P**, 9928W**, 9934A**, 9934P**, 9934W**, 9970A**, 9970W**, 9971A**, 9971W**, 9972A**, 9972P**, 9972W**, WD21P**, WD22A**, WD22P**, WD22W**, WD23A**, WD23P**, WD23W**, WM20A**, WM20P**, WM20W**, WM21P**, WM21W**, WM22A**, WM22P**, WM22W**, WM23A**, WM23P**, WM23W**
hope that helps
hotpoint95622
Well-known member
hotpoint 95622
Hi folks, question
Can any one tell me if the parts I need for the suspension for the 18680 are still out there or will new model unit fit?
I think I will need.
141 buffer
142 pivot cup
144 suspension pivot
151 suspension rod
And maybe.
165 clamp plate
166 suspension unit
167 suspension buffer
Hi folks, question
Can any one tell me if the parts I need for the suspension for the 18680 are still out there or will new model unit fit?
I think I will need.
141 buffer
142 pivot cup
144 suspension pivot
151 suspension rod
And maybe.
165 clamp plate
166 suspension unit
167 suspension buffer
