Ohio Filter Flo

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akronman

akronman

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There's other Filter-Flo threads very active, I had to create this one for mine. It still isn't down in the basement, thank god, cause northern OH had floods today, 1/2 inch at rear of my basement.

Model WWA8350VAL, there's confusion on lots of parts websites as to whether it's 1977 or 1989. Also, per many websites diagrams, WWA8350---B--AL seems more exact than "V"-AL, but I checked the model number sticker again, it clearly says V. Also different diagrams show the ramped agitator, while mine is 4 vanes, then 4 small protrusions in the skirt, see attached.
So, anyone know approximate era, 77 versus 89?

Also, I'll keep my eyes on Ebay, but wondering here first if anyone wants to sell an extra fabric dispenser and/or mini-basket.

akronman++2-28-2011-17-06-22.jpg
 
Filter Flo cycles

Cycles are:

18 minute Regular wash
Polyesters/Knits (with cooldown)
PermaPress (with cooldown)
PreWash/Soak

Also, so far it looks like I need to open the cabinet's top to remove the hinges for better cleaning. True?

akronman++2-28-2011-17-20-32.jpg
 
That's definitely a late 70's model. By the mid 80's GE had abandoned the woodgrain trim on the console. This is the console that was introduced in 1977 with "The Naturals". Nice machine. And yes, you do lift the lid (hinged at the rear) to get at those hinges.

Lawrence
 
no matter what the year, fascinating machines, I need to find an agitator like that to play with in one of mine....these scrub very well, although the spiral one really rolls over the load.....
 
RARE Feature!!

This machine has the rare, funky Per4m Press cool down sequence just like my purchased April, 1978 FF had.  This machine otherwise is exactly like the one my mom had that she bought fall of 1978 or early 1979. I've only seen this sequence/feature on one machine of this vintage, MINE.  and this was one of the reasons why I bought it.  I'd been so "Kenmored" as to how to properly wash perm press and such with cool down. 

 

What's rare about it?  The Perm Presss cool down sequence is kinda "Whirlpool"esque.  I've only seen it on one machine of this vintage.  the typical GE cooldown was spin and pump out wash water.  When the water level switch was "reset" after so much water had been drianed, then it would start spraying while it spun and would continue doing so until the machine stopped for the rinse fill. 

 

However, on the above show machine, it would start spinning as usual.  And then start spraying cold water while spinning out wash water when the water level switch was 'reset".  Then the timer would shut off the water spray and then the machine would stop with at least 3/4 of the wash water drained.  It would pause for a few minute and then start filling with cold water.  Once water level selector was "satisfied", it would begin agitation and would agitate for about 6 or 7 minutes, almost as long as the wash.  then pause.  then begin spinout of cooldown water.  Then it would go through the typical GE spin spray rinse before the main rise.  Shut off cold water spray and about 35 seconds later stop spinning and then begin to fill for rinse.  rinse was about 2.5 minutes long.    How can you tell, that long section on the timer dial between wash and final spin on Perm Press cycle and it saying cool down rinses.  If it was the typical GE cool down sequence, it would look more like the two short segments on the Poly/Knits cycle for cool down and then rinse. 
 
one thing I liked about the 70's years of production of these machines was when the tub size increased, so did the regular cycle add more minutes for the larger load, and also on larger machines they increased the agitator vanes to meet the 2 inch increase.....most other manufacturers just added 2 more inches to the shaft but didn't add more to the vanes to handle a larger load....
 
more stuff

I had the top open to dis-connect the lid switch, clean up LOTS of gunk, and so far this machine certainly needed cleaning, but it's almost entirely rust-free, amazing for how they never ever wiped down the top of the machine.

So, Yogi, this does look like the largest size available in approx 1977?

Appnut---thanks for descriptions of the cycles. I might get it down in the basement tomorrow, though my main mover buddy has a bad back right now. Then, I will at least once check out each of those "Cooldown" cycles, but then probably never use them again. I've been on REGULAR on so many machines for ages.

I am gonna hunt for that mini-basket, I think it would be perfect for white socks and clorox, I always have to wait a couple of weeks, almost no socks left, until I get enough for a whites only, bleached load.

Thanks for your advice and interest so far, I'll get more pictures once she's downstairs and running, and then I'll probably have a bunch more questions.
Thanks
Mark
 
the poly/knits cycle was about an 8 or 9 minute wash.  It agitated for 2 or three minutes.  Paused and soaked for about 2 or three minutes and then resumed agitation until the end of the wash phase.  I really liked that cycle for sweaters and such. 
 
Finding that minibasket is gonna be a challenge for that agitator.....four vane agitators were only for the largest machines, either white 4vane or turquoise 8vane, both for the largest.....but there is also a swirl, more common thru the 80's till the bitter end......maybe a little easier to find the swirl with the minibasket, pan, and dispenser....

you don't have to wait for the MB, you can do tiny loads without it, just as great!......

what did you mean disconnect the switch, just put a cable tie thru it to make it work with the lid open.....

flip your fill spout over on itself, will add lots of waterfall drama as it fills, and sprays the load while spinning, not behind the tub....just a thought, and can always be reversed.....
 
Filter Flo clutch

One load of clothes so far, excellent wash, great turnover, fine rinse, pretty happy so far. No drips or drops, medium noise, low-vibration spining with a full load. But no low speed at all. I tried everything, turning it off, switching from normal to slow then restart. And back again, and for 3 different cycles, always seemed to be the high speed, never slow, on agitate or spin. Then I got gutsy/stupid, switched it while running, still nothing, not even a click or hum or anything different, just strictly one even normal speed.
Reading thru many threads here, it seems that the clutch is a routine repair item, and easy except for some damn tight pin. I'll run a few more loads before tearing into it, I need more experience with this machine. I don't think I have used a Filter-Flo since some laundromat in the 80's.
But----should I check those relay/solenoids first? I only hear a good loud double click at end of spin, not any other time. I have an ohm-meter and a voltagemeter, multitester, etc, what should I look for with those solenoids? On the other hand, if it's 99% of the time the clutch gone bad, I'll take the pros advice and just search for one on Ebay, and assume the relays are OK..
Machine is mid 70's, WWA8350.
is the clutch kit #WH5X256 or something else?
Am I gonna hurt the machine running it a few weeks like this?
Anyone have a schematic for this or a similar machine?
Thanks
Mark
More pics later, it cleaned up AMAZINGLY well. Dirty as hell from NEVER having been wiped down, but the interior and inside and underside are very clean.
 
2 speed clutch

check that the little solenoid arm pulls down and catches one of the little
pawls on the clutch when low speed is selected.Also make sure the belt is
not loose as the two speed clutche's pulley groove is aluminum and wears
like mad if the belt slips(single speed is iron and does not have this wear
problem) BTW,due to the way the clutch shaft is clamped to the motor shaft
with a u-bolt and the fit of the shaft,filter flos usually have runout of
the clutch shaft and clutch-causing vibration.If you have the tools and
mechanic skills,this runout can be corrected to obtain an extra smooth
running filter flo...
That loud "clack"-sometimes a double clack,at end of spin is a filter flo
trademark LOL
 
if you have only one speed, and you can switch the selector and nothing "flying" apart, it's safe to suggest that has already been done, someone shifted it while it was running.......and theres a number of easy fixes for this, but you do for the most part have to remove the motor clutch assembly, not as hard as you think, 2 plugs, a twist tie, a pump clamp, and three bolts, and the whole unit will come out.....now to the fixing, the little solenoid offside of the motor mount is your culprit, the little arm is either bent, or broke off, you can either try and find a new one, or make shift a new one and rivet it in place, heck a popsicle stick would work, but this is what controls the speed of the clutch, by either letting it spin at full speed, or holding the bottom clutches from engaging....

while it is out, check to see if there is any major wobble in the clutch, if none, we will leave it alone for now, it is fine....if it is excessively wobbly or chatters during use, then we would have to tear into it...and most likely its would be the clamp that holds it to the motor is at fault...

you can run it like this forever with out the fix, it will be fine, but you just won't have the option for slow speed....you basically have a one speed machine....
all mine have the 2 speed, and never use it, maybe once for agitation, but always high for the spin.....

I think I have a spare solenoid or 2 if you need one, let me know, but again, if its running smooth and quiet for the most part, and slow speed is of no big issue, then leave it alone and enjoy!

the double click/knock at the end of the spin is the brake engaging to stop the tub...normal
 
Filter-Flo clutch

Yogitunes, cfz2882------Thanks for info, I will put it to use in a few days. Right now she's fully installed, running fine on one speed, and I did fold back the water inlet rubber grommet, HOLY LOUIS what a shower!!! Water even seeps up through the lid hinges! Yes, a fine shower for the spin rinse, and not a drop in the cabinet. I still have the rear off for watching/inspecting/learning, not a drop even though the waterspout inside the tub ran everywhere. Cool.

I'll check out the solenoid and metal arms with your good advice this weekend or early next week, I'll keep you posted, and also get some pics of the cleaned up machine. You are correct, if the fix ain't as easy as checking/fixing the switch and arm actuator, I will probably not get into the clutch. I have a 2 speed Maytag for gentle cycle, rarely use it on low speed. So far, this GE is not quiet, but it also is not overly/unacceptably loud, and it rapidly gets to a fast speed spin with a full load. So, with folks saying I can run it for years with only one speed, I may not go that far in searching out the cause, beyond that switch mechanism.

Yes, it's a water hog, but I get some busy washdays and have a suds-saver Maytag sitting next to the GE. Maybe start the first load in GE, suck up the suds into the suds-saver Maytag for next wash, etc, save a bit of water and have more fun.

I haven't yet checked those PermaPress/Cooldown cycles, I'll play with it once, then back to regular. I like the 18 minutes available, the Maytag has only 10.

Again, thanks for advice, soon put to use-
Mark
 
even I use a few of my machines as sudssavers, I drain my GE right now into a wringer, and use that water to wash the dogs sheets and blankets, even fyou don't have a SS machine, two toploaders ca work just the same, but you just haveto monitor them, like we dont stay there and watch the whole time anyway....haha....

but keep us posted, and we'll help where we can.......maybe I can send you this solenoid, just put it in a ziplock bag and tape it to the inside, and the someday you may want to put it on, at least you won't have to search for one, and then can't find it....just a thought...........

no their not the totally quietest machine, but smooth enough....

water hog?....maybe?.....but you can't beat the clean rinses.....

yes, that spout will have water everywhere inside, I like the waterfall, and the extra splashing around is a nice touc when spinning, you know water is going everywhere rinsing down the entire inner workings, no leftover scum or suds or dirt/sand......keeps it nice and clean.....

keep in touch

Martin
 
Ohio Filter Flo again

Well, 3 loads of clothes tonight, tiny drip from the tub at the hose headed to the filter pump, about a drip per minute, I'll check more closely when I dig into the solenoid and clutch engager.

A couple of things I've noticed------regular cycle, normal speed, full load----the spin drain after wash cycle has full speed draining and the tub starts spinning reasonably well considering it's fully loaded, but the rinse spray starts in about 30 seconds, well before enough water is drained to allow for a decent speed rine/spray/drain. I can't blame it on the pumping or speed, I don't think, seems that the timer is just pretty dumb, timed to spray too quick. Once, the spray stopped for a few seconds, I figure there was still enough water for the fill sensor to figure it had a full tub. About 3 seconds later the spray resumed. But, after the spray is done, I agree it gets very high-speed and good extraction darn quickly. And I think it may be better than the Maytag on rinsing, so far I never felt like I needed a second rinse. Probably opening that spout as Yogi advised helps with the rinsing.

Everything about the tub looks full sized, largest capacity I believe, but it doesn't hold as much as the Maytag. Are the ramped agitators all that much better? And which agitator is easiest to find a mini-basket for? That could push me to switch agitators, for sure.

Other than that, so far so good. If we get more snow and I feel like some indoor evenings, I'll soon check that clutch engaging mechanism. For now, she's running fine with a tiny drip, meduim noise, and I'm glad for your advice---

I still have great trouble with the Model number, WWA8350VAL. Many website have B, G, no V. And ALL diagrams and drawings show pushbuttons, not my toggles. I know tons of parts are common for many years, but even GE's own website downloads does not match my console at all, nor the timer especially. I think I have an odd duck. Sort of like me, I guess.
 
GE Clutch solenoid--filter Flo

Of course the picture I wanted most is ugliest. But anyhows-----I unplugged the motor harness, unplugged the 2-wire harness for this solenoid, checked that there was no power to this solenoid during regular speed spin, then did get 118 volts when the switch was set for gentle.
Then I removed the motor, very easy. The 2 small sheet metal screws holding this arm were quite loose, and have large oval slots. What's the arrangement supposed to be? does this arm go into the motor plate at 90 degrees, or I am supposed to keep it loose nd allow some slop?
I have not removed the clutch from the motor shaft, and don't want to. I spun it both ways and pushed/held the nubs that are supposedto be engaged by this armature, from what I could feel at the minor speed I could turn it, some amount of clutching is occuring, and visually the "brake pads" look fine.

NOTE: The 2 tiny springs were in place correctly on the armature, but I removed them and slightly bent the arms back in place prior to picture taking. The end of the armature is now directly over the magnetized solenoid, no problem.
So, entirely off the machine, I powered the solenoid/tilting arm mechanism with 120 V, no action at all. Reverse polarity, again no action at all. So I am guessing (and hoping) that the only problem with low speed is this solenoid. I have found an entire solenoid/arm/springs/harness/finger assembly online for $48, twice what I paid for the machine. Yogi-Martin, if you have a spare solenoid, I'll gladly take you up on your offer, email me from my profile, name your price. Or also advise any additional testing to prove it's shot?

Of course more questions----while the machine is over on the floor, where to lube? Pulleys with 3-in-1 oil? Any motor bearings to oil, or leave oil away from the clutch area entirely? Any bushings/bearings on top or bottom of transmission to lube while I'm at it?

A few days ago I had the top up, cleaned underneath, removed and cleaned the water guard, re-installed, flipped open that water fill spout for excellent rinsing, also rubbed vaseline all around the tub gasket. No rust anywhere, almost no sign of water anywhere ever in 33 years that it shouldn't have been.

The clutch seems very solid, straight and true on the shaft. If I get the solenoid arm working again to activate the low speed and then find clutch problems, I will very likely decide my FIlter-Flo is a one speed machine, oh well, that's fine. But so far this one damn solenoid seems to be the culprit.

Martin-Yogi, you've been very helpful, but anyone who wants to answer some of these questions will be appreciated for sure.

akronman++3-4-2011-21-58-29.jpg
 
solenoid

sure looks like the solenoid is the problem-open coil...The solenoid should
be tight on the motor plate-manually hold down the armature as the solenoid
would and adjust position so the arm contacts and stops one of the 2 pawls
on the clutch,tighten the solenoid screws in that position.
Not much to lube underneath-possible to oil the motor bearings but it is not
easy as motor not meant to be oiled.
If you want to test the two speed clutch,you can secure the solenoid in the
energized position with tape or something so that the clutch pawls are stopped
and run the washer-it is very,very likely the clutch is good.
 
paging CFZ and Yogi

Bad news, still just one speed. I used a strong ziptie to hold the tilting arm in place as if magentized. I could watch in agitation as one of the 2 sticking out pawls/tabs was held by the mechanism as the clutch turned, and still high speed. Then in spin, the arm was stopped in the other rotation, I could see it held accurately, and still high speed. All of both of your advice has been accurate, but I don't think I am up to changing the clutch. Unless there's much else to try, I think you've both helped me prove that the clutch is bad for low speed,but it is medium noise and acceptable use with no further damage as a one speed machine. I'll check here for more advice from you guys, but in a day or two will cut off that zip-tie and leave the old girl alone if that's wisest.
Oh well, everything else about it is in fine shape, solid machine, and I barely ever use low speed anyhows, rare as hell.
Thanks, truly, but the clutch work is one or two steps beyond my doings.
Thanks
Mark
 
you probably will have better luck finding the ramp agitator, and everything else for it..........

it actually does turn over the load better than the straight vane, theres a video that shows the day/night difference, although I am partial to the straight vane....

maybe we'll trade....

which hose had the drip, draining or filtering, and where from?...is it the hose and clamp, or at the tub location?....
 
Filter-Flo agitation

Agitation seems to be full-speed from the start, with the armature engaged or left at high speed, no difference. The tub rotates until the brakes clicks in, about 5 seconds, but there's no slow speed operating. Same with spinning, gets to top speed in maybe 20 seconds empty, top speed in a minute or so when pumping actual full load and full water. It seems very straight-line speed increase, typical start for a full load, never a specific move from low to high.
Again, thanks for advice, I'm all ears and happy to try anything--
Mark
 
John

curious, would there be something going on inside of this clutch that may be sticking, even if not slow, there should be some slippage at first, and I am supprised that it doesn't overheat the motor and cause it to shut down

I have 3 running right now, and each one is different as to how soon it kicks in....in this video, it takes a long time, which makes me think something is sticking before it kicks in, because this one take a while, I have one that kicks in by the second agitator stroke

Mark's seems to be operating like a single speed.....

also look at this guys filter flo, seems too powerful, I had one like this, using the small pan would shove the water and lint balls right out and over top, was best with the larger pan, but I switched the pump and water flume, and now it has the correct flo and centered......not all pumps react the same...

 
Filter Flo seeds

Martin---mine most assuredly does NOT behave like the one in the video. Mine seems entirely top speed at all times, a bit louder than other machines, but a smooth one-speed operation.
I have an Ebay bid in for a motor, 2 sp clutch, solenoid mechanism, if I win it's a simple swap out. If I lose, I'm pretty sure to leave my clutch as is and have a nicely working one speed operation from a smoooth operating , defective clutch.
As I said, any ideas, I'll test anything out, but it's looking like it ain't worth the hassles of clutch repairs, I rarely would need low speed and have other brands where low works well
Thanks
Mark

I'll keep you posted on my Ebay bid-
 
I was Wrong Wrong Wrong

Martin---CFZ---Combo----Still trying to figger what I did WRONG earlier, but yes it has 2 speeds and that high speed is PowerFul!
I checked while waiting for rinse fill a few minutes ago, and I had NOT removed the ziptie from the solenoid. So I cut it off, expecting exact results I'd seen from day one. Instead, after about 20 seconds of the only agitation I've ever seen, it kicked into top speed and went wild!

All I can figure is that the very bent actuator arm and pivot, both of which I had to strongly bend back in shape, must have been holding this at low speed from long before I bought it, I just never looked at the position(had no understandning) before I took it apart and bent it correct and ziptied it to see if I could "find" low speed. Then, after various testing and loads of clothes, I thought I had tried everything and thought I had removed the ziptie, but had not, and just kept seeing low speed.

So now, I stopped it 3 or four times with this small load of clothes, turned it back on and watched is start slow then take off to high, as described by you pros.

So, clutch works well, it's a real 2 speeed, I just need that solenoid to get it all back in perfect order.

Also, I bet the overall noise of this machine, compared to quiet Maytag, made me assume I was seeing high speed, and the turnover was decent. Now, HOLY SH*T! High speed is nearly too damn much! And low speed isn't as low as Maytag, nor as quiet, so I just got confused.

I've made dumber mistakes, trust me.

Thanks to you all, very much, Martin email me again if you have a spare solenoid, my checks haven't bounced in 2 decades, I'll happily get that final part for a perfect Filter -Flo.
Now back to the basement, gotta do a full, full load and watch the turnover. Damn!
 
There you go champ.....you were in low gear the whole time....someone must have tried changing speeds while it was running and jammed it there......

I'll bet its going so fast you can barely see the fins of the agitator
 
GE WASHER 2SP CLUTCHES

Mark I am glad your clutch problem was not so serious, this just points out the problem of comparing the performance of a MT to a real washer LOL. Sorry to the MT folks I just couldn't resist, I always remember an older repairman I knew years ago who always said of MT washers, it obvious why they last so long thier not doing anything.

 

Martin the reason some GEs switch to high speed faster than others all depends on the amount of friction in the carrier plate bearing. The more friction the faster this plate picks up speed and allows the shoes to fly out and engage the outer drum to provide high speed. So the fact that some take a longer time to engage is not a sign of problems at all but really that that is the better clutch assembly. The reason the little actuators for low speed get broken is they get out of adjustment and strike the moving clutch parts and break. If properly adjusted you can stand flipping the speed switch all through the cycle with the machine running with no damage.  Give me a call sometime it would be fun to catch up John.
 

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