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This is the agitator

Where I found a broken dog.
I haven't tried (too hard) to separate the upper agitator from the lower yet. Or take it apart, Didn't seem like that was going to just slip apart very easy.
I'm guessing that the ones that are still there have lost there teeth?

Thanks guys for all the tips, and advice for this.

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I found that in order to separate the top agitator section from the lower, just put the lower part between your two feet and grasp the upper part firmly and give it a yank. They'll separate. They go back together much easier.

Like I said before, parts for these machines are pretty plentiful and cheap.
 
Hi Allen, I'll try

that when I get the new parts! Thanks for the tip!

I spent some time today cleaning it.
I took off the tub ring and cleaned up under it. I filled the machine with hot water, and 2 cups of washing soda, and let it soak for about 15 min, then ran it, watched the detergent residue break loose from the outer and inner tub. After a few min (without added detergent) it started sudsing! By the time I was done, most of the scale an gunk that could see was gone, and the perfume smell of the old detergent was gone. And of course stopped sudsing. Cleaned out the water fill dispenser (not sure what that part is called) it was full of hard water scale. Took off the bleach dispenser, soaked and cleaned it.
Underside of the cabinet is badly rusted where the bleach dispenser snaps on, so will sand prime and paint that spot later.
Just what little I've done so far, has made it look, and smell younger LOL
 
 
The agitator auger (technical name is clothes mover) on a "virgin" disassembly is probably anchored onto the base via a couple tabs ... which are there to facilitate factory assembly. The instructions I've seen for the replacement dog kit advises to pull the auger off the base as Allen advises above, then break off any remaining bits of the anchor tabs as they're not needed.

It helps when reassembling to turn the auger upside down with your hand inside to hold the cam and dogs in place, then set the agitator base into the auger and hold them firmly together when turning it right-side up for placing back onto the drive shaft.

NOTE: The bolt down inside the agitator DOES need to be removed and the entire agitator pulled out of the machine.  The auger cannot be removed with the bolt in place.  Tighten the bolt snugly when reassembling so the rubber seal seals properly but not so tight that the bolt cuts the seal.  An airtight seal is formed to maintain an air bubble under the agitator to help keep water away from the centerpost bearings.
 
It used to be that there was a small tube of bearing grease in the agitator overhaul kit for WP TL agitators. But I have noticed that recently you won't find those tubes of bearing grease in the kit anymore. You may want to take some lithium grease (not the spray) and put a thin coat of it on the gear ring on the inside of the agitator where the dogs engage the gears. You don't need a lot, just a light coating. It'll make the dogs last longer.
 
O.K

Hope I haven't bitten off more than I can chew (auger)
Sounds like it could be more of a chalange than the timer, pump, possibly even the tub seal?

Should I pull my hair out now! And get it over with? LOL
 
The very first repair I ever did on a washer was to install one of these agitator overhaul kits in a WP TL machine. The entire job took 20 minutes, start to finish.
One of the easiest things to do. These machines are not that hard to work on. I'd be more concerned about the cabinet rust. I've seen some pretty bad cases of that before.
 
If the only thing that is damaged is your agitator dogs, then you are good to go. I purchased the agitator overhaul kit which includes all the parts that go inside the agitiator, including a new top seal for the plastic cover. I just don't want to take any chances that I was missing something.
 
Hi Guys

Got Lucky!
Parts came in! Installed the new pump, and the new agitator dogs, not much to it, and seemed to sove the problems!
I watched, and listened to it go through a full cycle...no leaks, and agitator pulled the clothes under efficiently. Timer seemed to work fine for now...Only thing I noticed was that on this occasion, it decided to spin at the same time it was suppose to be doing its neutral drain, and of course spun again at the time that it was suppose to!
I'm guessing that it will do this in occasion because the neutral drain pak is also worn?
I told my friend not to worry about it for now.
If it becomes a problem, that I'll address a new clutch (or spring) and new drain pak if it got worse.

Another one saved!
Thanks to all!
 
Also

just curious..
On these Kenmore machines, is there a off balance cut off?
Somewhere I got the idea that when there was a off balance situation, that the machine stopped, and that this feature was conducted through the lid switch? Honestly I can't remember where I heard that?
Maybe this model just keeps spinning?
 
 
Whirly/KM direct-drive units (& Roper, Estate, Inglis, Maytag, etc.) typically don't have have off-balance switches, except the Catalyst models and it's possible Sears spec'd for it on some higher-end models as an 'exclusive' feature as they sometimes do vs. the Whirlpool equivalents.

The Catalyst machines have a bump-switch on the rear panel unrelated to the lid switch so presumably that'd be the method on any model that has it.

(switch with white arm inside a protective sleeve)

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Thank You DaDoES

For the pic, and explanation.

Talked to my friend today, agitator, is working well, and no leak at the new pump.
However there is another leak! Facing the machine, it comes from the left side, my friend say it only dose it when hot water is used? Not on warm or cold?
Pic below is pointing to where it leaks from.
I'm going over sometime soon to check it out.
Should I be suspicious of the tub seal?

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Ordered

A tub seal, and should be here today or tomorrow. Hopefully that fixes the problem? Hopefully I can do this repair without too much trouble?
It strange that it only leaks when using hot water ?
 
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