Older Maytag Washer info needed

[stan]

This is a friends washer that has stoped working.
I haven’t seen the washer in person to poke around to see what the problem is..
She just sent me pics and she’s unable to locate model number.
To me it looks like 80s model that would be belt drivin.
Any advice on where model number would be and approximate age?
She’s shopping for new washer to replace this, but has discovered that she will no longer have control of water level, time, temp, ect with new top loaders out there.

Thanks
Stan

 

[stan]

Tag

With model number

 

[stan]

January

1983
?

 

[wayupnorth]

Definitely worth fixing and keep running for many more years My '84 Maytags, like that model, have run perfect for 40 years with one $28 part.Too bad they didnt show ads with real Newton Maytags that last now, because new Maytags are just junk.

 

[drummerboy928]

The "FQ" at the end of the serial number would be the year and month. F being 1992, and Q being July. This is definitely belt driven, and would have the newer orbital transmission as well, so definitely a keeper if you can get it working. Not sure what exact problems you're having with it, but hopefully it will be an easy fix.

- Henry

 

[qsd-dan]

I believe these are first generation helical Maytags to have the dual lid switch setup.

 

[stan]

Thanks guys

From what my friend says, she was washing a large heavy load of towels and midway through the wash cycle she smelled something burning. I’m not sure but think she said she saw smoke?
She stoped machine and tried to spin it out. She said it didn’t agitate and didn’t spin.
So I’m assuming that the belt/belts broke or the lid switch burnt up.
Since she usually washes large loads, I wondered if a sock or somethin slipped between the tubs?
It’s been an eye opener to her and I both as she’s looked and investigated new top load machines and has come away disappointed with what’s she looked at.
She won’t buy anything from Home Depot. LOL

I

 

[combo52]

1992 Maytag washer, not spinning, not agitating

And smoking, sounds like you may have just lost a main drive belt, this might be an easy fix.

Hi Dan, the video you posted and reply number five as well done, unfortunately there’s no need to ever replace that fuse or the small white lid switch on these washers. Even Maytag said that we could officially bypass that second lid switch. There’s no reason for it. It’s simple and doesn’t require buying any parts to fix that problem permanently.

Hi Stan, if your neighbor wants to replace that washer, a basic GE top loader with a water level switch on it would be a good replacement. They’re fairly inexpensive and I will do a good job for a long time.

John

 

[stan]

Thanks John

She has the machine unplugged, so I asked her to see if the agitator will turn by hand, she say she tried and it won’t.
Is this an indication that something is seized?
I’m not familiar with Maytag’s other than my Maytag Wringer

 

[stan]

Also

Just curious.. should the agitator on this machine lift off like a Wringer ?

 

[qsd-dan]

The agitator is not going to turn by hand, at least, not very easy.

The agitator is held by a 1/4" screw near the base of the stalk of the agitator. There's no reason to remove it.

Remove the the front panel, tip the washer back and slip the belts off. Inspect them both for any wear or damage. Turn center transmission pulley counterclockwise, It should turn easily and the agitator/shaft should oscillate. Turning the pulley clockwise will ruin it up the helical shaft, lock, and spin the tub.

 

[DADoES]

 
<blockquote>Turning the pulley clockwise will ruin it up the helical shaft, lock, and spin the tub.</blockquote> Typo in that sentence.  Ruin should be run ... turning the pulley clockwise doesn't ruin anything.

 

[good-shepherd]

she smelled something burning.

Thats not a good sign.

Could be a seized tub bearing or agitator shaft which burned up the belt.

Either one can be fixed, tub bearings and orbital transmissions are still available.

 

[good-shepherd]

A cheaper fix would be to grab a used MT off Facebook:

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See posts, photos and more on Facebook.

www.facebook.com

 

[Chetlaham]

To the owner: Do not dispose or give this machine up. You will never find a single washer that is built anywhere close to a Maytag dependable care. If everyone were like me 90% of all washer sales would be Maytag Dependable Cares.

 

[combo52]

It could just simply be a burned belt too. First thing to check is what Dan suggested in reply number 10.

Reply 14, hi Chet fortunately everybody is not like you Maytag at its peak only hit about 15% of washer sales in the United States. It was not the most loved brand. It was expensive and not the most effective washer either.

If they’re so great, why are you using a Speed Queen instead of a vintage Maytag Chet.

John

 

[Chetlaham]

 

 

Only because people shop with their eyes, not their brains, hence where we are today with modern appliance industry more evident than ever before. In my world the price would have been considered well worth it for the longevity, durability and reliability Maytag perfected. To the point the Kenmore name would have been on DCs.

 

The lack luster wash in heavy and denim loads attributed to the short wash time. With consumer feedback the Normal cycle would have aligned with other washer brands (like FF) offering 25 minutes of wash time. I discussed increasing the wash time in the modern adaptation thread:

 

 

How I Imagine a 2024 Maytag Helical

This is how I imagine a 2024 Maytag Helical washer. Mallory, Kingston or Singer EM timer, Stainless Steel tub, lint filter in agitator, choice of either straight van or load sense agitator, pitman transmission, quiet pak sound absorption, porcelain on steel top, long wash cycle to let HE...

www.automaticwasher.org

 

 

I went with a Speed Queen since it was the only vintage type washer I could obtain new in box. Had I the option of a new in box DC pitman I would have of course chosen Maytag. A used DC from the 70s and 80s would have been a gamble not knowing the machine's history like number of cycles run. In late 2013 the machine would have already been between 30 and 40 years old. No sure way to know the history- if it spent 15 years storage followed by light use but just happens to look grungy on the surface or did 3 loads a day on average for decades but just happens to have newish belts and shines like new. I would hate say in 5-8 years if one of the seals went out. It would have been similar to having bought a modern machine in the first place. My Speed Queen is now 11 years running without a single repair or problem. I hope to get at least another 10 years out of it.

 

If everyone were like me you could still buy vintage appliances new in box but with long needed improvements making them better than ever.     

 

 

[ragnboneman]

Two screws hold the front on the washer
remove front and check the motor to see if its burned or its a belt issue.
While in there I would vacuum and clean the inside of the machine

Washing powder dirt all build up when spilled these hold moister and cause rust.

If the motor looks good tip the machine back.

A good trany will spin in one direction and agitate in the other....

I just checked the last few post and I am repeating what other people said....

HA HA HA

Ive never compared the orbital short stroke wash to the older Newton.
From what I understand this make a small difference in performance the their earlier unit doing a little better job.
My brother had an orbital he hated but but I think his wife over loaded it and thats why the short stroke wash action was not as effective as the old Wig Wag Kenmore they replaced

 

[grnappliance]

To Stan:

Hello Stan. I have a Maytag similar to yours from 1989, and I think I can help you with identifying your issue.

Your description of a burning smell suggests the motor is either struggling to run or is breaking down. If you tip the machine back slightly and remove both belts, you can run the machine without belts on the spin to assess the motor's condition. If the burning smell persists, you'll need a new motor (That's what happened with mine).

If the motor runs fine, you can then check the pump by removing the front panel, tipping the machine back slightly, and turning the pump pulley located on the front right side. If the pulley is very resistive or stuck, that's where the problem will be. You can also look inside the pump for any obstructions.

If the pump pulley is fine, you can then check the large transmission pulley located at the base of the machine. As qsd-dan had described, turning the pulley counterclockwise will move the agitator in the tub, while turning the pulley clockwise will engage the spin. If the pulley is very resistive or stuck when you turn it counterclockwise, there is something wrong there, but I'll let someone else explain those details.

Those are the three main culprits that can cause a burning smell, although there could be other obstructions in unique cases. I hope this was helpful to you.