One less A806 in the world …..

[robbinsandmyers]

Today was the big day I finally would be able to meet my friend for the free A806 washer. It’s amazing how much better things look in the dark. Got it outside and it looked pretty rough and rusty on the bottom of the cabinet. Start winding on motor burned out or connectors too corroded. Once I took the front panel off and saw the extreme level of rust and corrosion I knew it was a parts machine and started stripping it. I saved the trans, brake, pulley, whole console with wiring, bleach reservoir, drain hoses, agitator and spin basket. Outer tub was rotted. Also have the lower support the pads ride on. I saved the motor not sure why. Rest went to the curb. I had such high hopes but this would have been a resurrection not restoration. I’ll clean up and service the trans and get it ready to install in my A407. This looks like the Mallory timer was replaced with a Kingston at one time.

 

[repairguy]

That’s too bad but at least you got some good extra parts for a great price.

 

[qsd-dan]

Hope you saved the tub cover since it has the lens for the tub light. Metal band clamp looks pretty good from one side.

 

[robbinsandmyers]

I saved the tub cover but it will need some POR-15 or zinc chromate primer on the lip as its got some heavy rust. The stainless band was all distorted in back like a repairman messed it up and hid it. I would like to put the tub light on my 407 and figure a way to make a lighted panel for it as well

 

[good-shepherd]

With the parts salvaged

and a little work your A407 can be converted to an A806.

 

[qsd-dan]

If your 407 is white, swap the tops and wire up the motor for 1 speed operation until you find a 2 speed motor.

 

[combo52]

Can’t save them all

Hi John, glad you got some good parts out of the machine, what does the transmission shaft look like for the agitator?

How can you tell the washer originally Had a Mallory?

John L

 

[robbinsandmyers]

gsd-dan I’m wondering if this motor is good. When I had the machine in spin mode I switched it to gentile spin as it slowed down so I know both speeds work. It just doesn’t start by itself. How do I test that?

Combo52 believe it or not the splines are perfect and smooth. The agitator was stuck firm so I drilled a hole on top and sprayed Kroil in it. Then aimed a heat gun down down the agitator for 5 mins and it came right off. I’m going to clean the outside then pull it apart and clean it and replace the nylon gear and gasket and fill with synthetic oil for better operation in my cold basement. It showed no signs of spraying oil underneath but the rubber cap was full when I removed it. I also saved the tub bushing and sleeve as it was smooth and quiet in spin mode. Re:Mallory timer. I just assumed all Maytags with the blue band on the console used a Mallory and the gold band was Kingston

 

[combo52]

Maytag washers with center dial 06 in later.

Used either Kingston or Mallory timers interchangeably, they also interchangeably used GE/Emerson or Delco motors and sometimes Westinghouse.

They also used at least two different inlet valve makers.

It was sort of the luck of the draw a Mallory timers were more durable, the Robert Shaw- controls corporation inlet valves were junk and the Westinghouse motors were junk GE and Emerson were the better ones Delco was sort of Soso.

A significant percentage of problems that Maytags had in the 70s were caused by the cheap parts they bought from other companies, generally the things they built themselves were better.

John L

 

[qsd-dan]

When I had the machine in spin mode I switched it to gentile spin as it slowed down so I know both speeds work. It just doesn’t start by itself. How do I test that?



 

 

[robbinsandmyers]

I'll deff test that today thanks! Does this motor have a start winding or is that box a capacitor as well? I know it runs on two speeds if I spin it by hand but it will not start by itself, even with the belts off. It just hums. Thanks.

 

[qsd-dan]

Does the motor shaft spin easily? If so, the spring loaded centrifugal start switch may be sticking or stuck....which wouldn't surprise me by the looks of the machine it came out of. These motors don't come apart but you may be able to work it free with some patience.

 

It would be a good idea to open the start switch up and check the condition of the contacts. A dirty/burned contact will generate that symptom as well.

 

[good-shepherd]

fill with synthetic oil for better operation

Stick with OEM Maytag oil or conventional 85w-90 GL-4 oil.

Synthetic has been known cause oil leaks past the o-ring seal and nosiy operation.

Changing oil in a long stroke MT is not a job you want to do twice.

Sluggish cold operation has more to do with decades old thick trans oil than anything.

 

[robbinsandmyers]

Here’s the motor. gsd-dan the shaft spins freely, no binding at all. Looks like it’s color coded not marked with letters. Which terminals do I use for testing?

[this post was last edited: 1/22/2022-18:09]

 

[robbinsandmyers]

Spent a bit of time on the motor today. Figured the wiring was color coded the same as the abbreviations in the video. Got it to run both directions no problem but can’t figure out the wiring for low speed. I took apart the starting switch and cleaned the burnt contacts but it only slightly helped. Really needs a new switch. I spent quite a bit of time with a small wood handled wire brush cleaning as much white corrosion as possible. Smelled like detergent. Then I sprayed some clear lacquer in a cup and used an acid brush to give it one light coating to keep it looking decent. Any way to tell who made it? Looks much better than when I pulled it out. I tossed the carriage. Was so rotted and stuck plus two studs broke off.

 

[robbinsandmyers]

Trans service

Sounds like a plan thanks. I'll just pic up the gear oil at the parts store. I looked at my NOS nylon pinion gear and it doesnt have any holes for the pin. Should I worry about this? I already have a trans gasket. I'll clean it out with kerosene and dry it before adding the oil and reassembling. Only thing I need to buy is a tub seal. Im going to use this old bearing and sleeve from the 806 as it spun nice and quiet plus I can inject some Zoom Spout oil into the wick with a needle. The sleeve slid right off the trans housing with almost no effort at all. That seemed to be the only area of this machine that didnt have rust and corrosion. From the tub bearing to the tip of the agitator shaft

 

 

[qsd-dan]

Did you check the operation of the mechanical centrifugal switch? You should be able to push it down with both fingers through the holes of the casing and it should snap back up. If not, use 2 flathead screwdrivers 180 degrees apart.

 

 

 

[robbinsandmyers]

I did, its nice and free. I cleaned it with CRC electronics spray. I may try and clean all the contacts in the switch again and spray all the parts with the CRC as well that slide. Which configuration runs the motor in low speed?

 

[combo52]

Motor brand

This is an Emerson motor, we consider this the best of the various motors Maytag used during this time..

About all you can do to repair them is replace a centrifugal switch or free up the centrifugal mechanism on the armature.

Because the motor is epoxy together you really can’t replace the bearings although I’ve seen it done I’ve seen people knock them apart and put bearings and him and glue it back together