Osterizer Cyclomatic Timer Extraction: Help Needed

[rp2813]

I started a thread on this blender a few years ago when I first acquired it and it attracted a decent amount of activity, but I have a new question so figured some fresh eyes and a focus on a single issue might help me find an answer.

 

The mechanical timer that controls the pulsing action didn't stay working for long after I had it apart and fiddled with it.  For the life of me, I can't remember how I removed the timer from the machine, as there's a retaining screw that's virtually inaccessible behind the control panel.  I can't find any way to remove that screw without perhaps cracking the plastic housing for the control panel, as there doesn't seem to be any obvious way to remove the control panel assembly in order to access that screw.

 

Has anyone had a Cyclomatic apart far enough to access this screw, and if so, can you share how you did it?

 

I've loaned out my black & blue Lady Kenmore (Osterizer clone) to a friend and the Cyclomatic is on my kitchen counter, where I'd like to keep it and use the Cyclomatic feature, since the blender offers 825 watts of power compared to 600 or 650 on the LK.

 

Thanks for any help,

 

Ralph

 

[rp2813]

I got the timer out.  I used a screwdriver with a 90 degree bend at the tip.  It fought me, but I removed and disassembled the motor and with a bit of carburetor cleaner I got it working.  With blender still apart and all leads to the speed selector removed, I tested the timer motor's operation and watched the rotating gear as it tripped the switch several times. 

 

During this whole process, which took hours, two wires detached from their connectors:  A black one that's secured to the power cord with a wire nut and connects to what I guess is a ground or something on the back of the front panel (not part of the speed control assembly), which was easy to repair, and another black one that comes from inside the timer.  It appeared to have detached from one side of the commutator's brushes.  It made sense to me that since there was another black wire connected to the brush on the opposite side, this broken wire had to belong on the other brush.  I soldered it back in place.

 

With everything reassembled, I plugged it in, selected Cyclomatic, set the timer and heard a pop.  The whole thing is dead now.  I opened it up and the only evidence of a short is on the brass piece where I soldered the black wire to the brush assembly, but the connection isn't loose.

 

Now I'm stumped.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.  At this point, all I want is for the blender to work again and I don't even care about the pulsing action anymore.  It's way more trouble than it's worth.

 

[rp2813]

OK, so after even more searching on line and finding little to go on, and with a fresh set of eyes and a clear head today (I was up until almost 2 AM trying to resolve the problem), I decided to check for other connections that this one loose wire may have detached from.  It occurred to me that the timer couldn't even operate without its two leads connected to AC power, so I removed the subject wire from the brush, extracted the motor and detached all wires from the speed selector.  This left the timer motor as the only thing that could be powered up.  I found an empty terminal way up behind the Off/Cyclomatic/Manual switch.  Now things were starting to make sense.  Or so I thought.

 

I soldered the wire onto the terminal, set the switch to "Cyclomatic" and plugged in the cord.  With one immediate pop, the the outlet strip I'm using while testing tripped yet again.  This doesn't happen with the switch set to "Off" or "Manual."  Now I'm really at a loss for what's wrong.  I tend to think the timer isn't the problem, even though the situation suggests otherwise.  It worked fine before this mystery wire separated from its rightful terminal.  At this point, I think it's best to disable the Cyclomatic feature entirely since removing the timer motor is a major PITA and it can't be disassembled far enough to get inside past the gears, but I need to determine whether the power always runs through the timer even when using the "Manual" setting.

 

I can't read a schematic very well, and clearly my knowledge of electrical theory is just enough to be dangerous.

 

Again, if anyone owns one of these and/or has wiring knowledge, I'd appreciate some advice.

 

 

[rp2813]

Journal Entry #4

I disconnected the timer leads from the power cord (wire nut) and switch terminal.  The pop remains when the switch is set for "Cyclomatic."  At this point, there's nothing left to blame but the switch assembly, which appears to be riveted in place.  Since manual operation requires passing over the Cyclomatic position, as I see it there's no viable option for using this beautiful blender anymore.  It's a parts donor now, which is a real shame since with 825 watts of power combined with the fusion blade, it would have really kicked ass on anything one might have thrown into it.

 

[panthera]

Hold on a second

I've never worked on an Oster blender this new, but this problem does not sound as if it were an actual short in timer assembly.
Could you shoot us some pics of the various sub-assemblies? I'm going to go out on a limb and guess that once the weekend is over someone here will show up actually is familiar with these more recent blenders.
The dead short you're describing sounds more as if live and neutral were crossed somewhere then an actual failure in the switch which normally only switches one side. Good luck in any case I love my vintage Osters.

 

[rp2813]

Thanks Keven,

 

I'm putting it all back together just so I won't forget where everything goes or lose some screws, spacers or washers.  It could be a while before I revisit this.

 

I'll snap some pictures if anyone chimes in who wants to help.  I was hoping for someone with a Cyclomatic to post pictures of theirs, but I understand the hesitation to do so, considering the can of worms I've opened.

 

I made notes of where all the various colors of wires terminate, so it's just the one timer motor wire that created all of this trouble.  I've checked and double-checked and can't see any of the other wires I've touched that aren't where they're supposed to be.

 

[panthera]

Yes,

Oster may have made brilliant products back then, but 'service-friendly'? In what universe!

 

[rp2813]

So true!  I see no way to remove the whole front assembly.  There seem to be screws, but they are absolutely inaccessible due to the molded metal motor supports that are in the way.  I suppose for other things, there were specific tools made by Oster for servicing, but working with your average screw drivers and nut drivers can be a real challenge. 

 

At least when this blender was made, Oster was still using steel for all of its fasteners.  My telescoping magnetic pick-up tool has been invaluable for maintaining my sanity, otherwise the whole thing would have been tossed into the garbage by now. 

 

[panthera]

My favourite, Model 463, Series A

Has the lowest stir speed I've ever encountered. Bought it at an action off of a very old greasy spoon. They'd made milkshakes with it for decades.

Taking it apart and cleaning was interesting, to put it mildly. I changed out the brushes, even though they still had at least half their life left, simply not to have to do that again until in my '90s.

 

 

[rp2813]

I found a recipe for "Palm Springs" date shakes that I was going to make in this blender.  The "fusion" blade, multiple speeds, and Cyclomatic option would have been nice, but the single speed Waring "rocket ship" on the bar got the job done instead, albeit not as quickly as the Cyclomatic would have.

 

[rp2813]

Hi Keven,

I'll probably take another stab at this over the upcoming weekend.  It does seem to me like the live and neutral wiring has been crossed somewhere, but how I don't know.  The tolerances for the connections to the switch are uncomfortably close together, but I don't see any issues there, and as you mentioned further up, the switch only deals with one side. 

 

With both the timer motor and the blender motor disconnected, the source of the short has become a real mystery.  There aren't any wires going to anything, other than the soldered connections on the switch.  Wherever those switch wires lead to, there's nothing connected on the other end. 

 

I have a feeling this is something very simple, but trying to figure it out has been anything but.  If you have any ideas that pictures might help with, let me know which components you'd like to see and I'll snap some.