Painting / Polishing tips

[DADoES]

 
I'd like some tips on DIY refinishing/painting/polishing.  Any machine found in this area is sure to be rusted and need refinishing work.  I don't have a mechanical paint sprayer, anywhere to set up such equipment for proper use ... so must make-do with off-the-shelf spray cans (been using Krylon).  Obviously a factory-gloss finish cannot be achieved that way, but I'd like to get reasonably nice results.  The main problem is the inevitable misty-looking and feeling spray-matte effect.  I suppose polishing can deal with it to an acceptable degree.  What's the best technique?  Wet-sanding, with what grit paper?  Polishing compound and a power-buffer?

 

[MaytagA710]

If you're doing the Krylon way, try this as a top coat once you finish the initial painting. It worked wonders on the bottom kick plate of one of my dishwashers.

http://www.krylon.com/products/acrylic_crystal_clear/

 

[northwesty]

Well, I wouldn't bother with krylon, it isn't meant to take any abuse. There is this appliance epoxy but I've found that doesn't stand up too well either.

One thing that is out there that might be worth trying is the epoxy spray paint that is meant for re-doing a shower enclosure or even bath tub. This stuff costs more than the appliance epoxy and is meant to take more abuse. As far as cost is concerned, if you are going to go through the effort, and there will be plenty of over-spray - prep work, you might as well use the toughest stuff you can get.

Buy plenty since you can take the stuff you can't use back. Pre-shake them all, holding the cans upside down. If you dare, practice with a can in each hand to get a better spray pattern, (not pointing at the exact same space), and once you get the hang of it keep a wet edge. You can also put the cans in front of a space heater to get the pressure up a little and the stuff seems to smooth out a little better when on the hot, not too hot, but hot side.

Don't stop on the object but sweep past it, and head on back keeping a wet edge. Painting large objects with little spray paint cans is a real pain.

 

[northwesty]

another thing I should mention is that if there is rust you will probably have to at least buy a hand sander with alot of fine sandpaper and get as much of that off as possible. Of course these old appliances have industrial grade lead based paint on them so be mindful as you send billows of dust throughout the neighborhood -- then you have to keep stuff super clean anyway before you paint with a tac cloth.

I'm thinking that you can go direct to metal with this epoxy paint. It will take a few coats, maybe three. Now the directions, even on krylon, say that you can keep putting coats on as long as it is within a certain time, but don't try that. Put on your good coat, then follow the directions, you will probably have to wait three days before you can put on another coat. Do not try to rush that as what is known as "alligatoring" of the paint will result. It is worth the wait.

If this sounds like a lot of work is it nothing compared to putting on a thick lousy coat and trying to wet-sand, I guess with 220, 320, 400, 500, 600, 700, 800. 1000, 2000, 3000 grit paper and then polish. I'd do that on polishing metal but with paint forget it.

 

[goatfarmer]

On the repaints I sell, I just use RustOLeum. Gives a nice finish, easy to apply, etc.

 

 If you're really good, you can buy RustOleum in a quart can, and apply it with a roller!  I paint most of the refrigerators I sell this way.

http://carpainting.wetpaint.com/page/Roller+Method

 

[DADoES]

 

I'm finding that some time with rubbing compound and an electric buffer works well-enough.  This is not a mission-critical situation, I just want the repainting to look half-decent, or maybe 3/4 to 7/8 decent.