POD 7-30-24 Maytag AMP and Railroad Women

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For anything with heavy or even moderate amount of dust or other particulate soil standard wash day advice was to shake out things first. One or two (or more) pre-washes would be used to remove much remaining dust as possible before main wash.

When soap was queen of wash day above was necessary because of limited ability for that substance to suspend and hold "dirt" in solution and away from laundry. Arrival of builders such as phosphates (best) or washing soda (not so good) helped, but overall one wanted things least fouled as possible before main wash.

Laundry cannot come out cleaner than water it is washed and rinsed in..

More soil/dust left in laundry means increased number of washings (and use of more chemicals/soap/detergent...) to get them clean.

More common to most housewives then and now would be things like window curtains. Today of course one can vacuum the things before laundering. Otherwise they should be beaten or otherwise agitated (preferably out doors) to get as much of dust and dirt off before wash process begins.
 
 
<blockquote>Laundry cannot come out cleaner than water it is washed and rinsed in..</blockquote> The wash period must be repeated with fresh water and dose of detergent until it runs clear of all soil evidence, then repeated rinse periods until free of every trace of laundry products?  How many wash periods should that reasonably require?  Modern detergent surfactants don't function adequately to attract and hold soils away from fabric fibers via a single wash period?
 
Using best practices of domestic and industrial/commercial laundries as much muck, solids and particulate matter is removed via pre flushing or pre-washing before main wash cycles.

Reasons for above are numerous.

First, more of soils, stains, muck and forth that are removed before main wash means lower level of chemicals can be used and those that are do so more effectively. Less chemicals used for washing translates into easier rinsing and less of it required.

We don't wash in mucky water!

Betty Furness in all her high heeled and girdled glory demonstrates what one is on about in that famous Westinghouse Laundromat test.



Things varied by washing machine design and some other factors but by and large expecting one wash cycle to dispose of heavy or even moderate muck is asking a lot.
 
"Disregarding heavy muck, how many washes are needed to get an acceptable condition?"

From an instiutional/commercial laundry perspective things are usually broken down by soil level, light, medium and heavy..

Light soil - flush, wash, rinse or rinses and extract.

Medium soil - flush, wash, drain, wash, drain, rinses then extract

Heavy soil - flush, wash, drain, wash, drain, wash, drain, rinses then extract

For moderate or heavy soiling (depending upon type) some places will do two or three flushes before going to first of three washes.

Laundry heavily fouled with say blood, faeces and other organic matter you'd want to remove much of it before going to wash.

Most people today don't generate sort of heavily soiled wash compared to years ago. Unless someone works on a farm or otherwise is exposed to heavy dirt most laundry usually is made up of body soils with occasion stains caused by food, beverages or other substances.

Years ago virtually all European front loaders had a pre-wash as part of "Normal" or long cycle. Today pre-wash is usually separate or bundled as part of "Heavy" soil option.

For most domestic laundry detergents today (at least top shelf varieties) are able to remove and keep soils in suspension. This within limits of what testing considers "light, medium and heavy" soiling.
 
But with tumble action machines and most perforated basket top loaders, heavier than water soil could sift out during the wash. With solid tub machines, sediment removers and overflow rinses helped dispose of heavier than water soil, but the AMP Maytag had one tub for the clothes and one tub for the dirt and, unfortunately, heavier than water soil often tended to stay in that tub.
 
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