Power tools question.

[volvoguy87]

A friend is moving and found a workshop in an unused outbuilding on their property. They said I could have anything I wanted from it. The stuff hasn't been touched since about 2002.

I've got a decent idea of everything in it except for one thing. Is my new-to-me drill press halfway decent? It's a 16-speed Guardian Power floor-model drill press. The speed changes are done by shifting belts (there are 2 belts and 3 pulleys). The drill press has a manufacture stamp of 1987. It's designed to be bolted to the floor (and I will do so) but as it presently stands, it's a heavy beast.

I can't find anything substantial on Guardian Power tools online and I doubt they're still around. At the very minimum, what would y'all recommend I do to the drill press to ready it for use? What should I lubricate and what should I use? There is a light coating of rust on much of the drill, should I do anything about it?

I turned it on to see if it worked and it runs well, but I don't want to turn it on again until I've cleaned and, if necessary, lubricated it.

There's also a 10" Black and Decker portable table saw. It's not a great table saw, but it's free and it's better than no table saw.

What do you think?
Dave

 

[panthera]

I think a free drill press is a free drill press!

And that's neat.

OK, at a minimum. You have kids, don't you? If it's too early to have the removable red power key, I'd get some sort of electrical cut off to prevent someone from using it you don't want to.
I'd definitely check out the electrical cord, etc. to be sure everything is ok, grounded, etc.

A bit of rust is no hu-hu, especially in your neck of the woods.

It does mean, though, that the bearings and shafts and chuck are "dry" or perhaps not as well lubed up as they should be. Conversely, those belts might well have a film on them from out-gassing of lube or dirt or so.

In short, clean the belts and their pulleys really well. Lube what needs lubing, leave the minor rust be where it doesn't bother anything and enjoy.

I'd pay close attention to everything which could fly off or cause damage to the machine, the workpiece or you to make sure it's ok.

There are several comments about the crank return springs failing on these, so I'd check that.

Can't find much on them. Couple reports say Taiwanese, but that's not much help. Basically, not much to go wrong, just the usual - don't force, do clamp, goggles and magnet.

Since most work I do on a drill press is with HSS and nasty bits of high-sulfer metal, I always clean up really well when done, especially the chuck. You might want to check there especially well to be sure there's nothing you end up compressing with the key and then can't break free. The torque that key gives you is pretty awesome.

Is this it?

 

[toggleswitch]

Nothing to add here, except:

Beware-- some 'permanently-mounted, no-nonsense' shop power-tools may be 220v.

 

[panthera]

Toggles,

can you email me?
Thanks
Keven

 

[volvoguy87]

No kids.

There are no children in the house. It is 120 volts. The pic is similar, but mine is bigger and a floor model, not a bench model. I'll try to get some pics after I get home from services tonight and do some chores. The belts and pulleys look brand new for some reason. The rest of the machine needs some cleaning though. The return spring is fine.

Thanks,
Dave

 

[sudsmaster]

You could probably buy the equivalent chinese made version at Harbor Freight or Enco, new, for about $250 or more. So I think for $0 you got a pretty good deal.

As far as lubrication... most likely the motor is permanently lubricated. If you find an oil cup, then squirt some 20 wt oil in there (3 in 1 blue label will do nicely - don't use the usual red label stuff, though, it leaves a sticky film). Probably the drive shaft (what the spindle/chuck is attached to) is either permanently lubed or will need some 20 wt as well.

I have a similar size table mounted drill press. As I recall there is no need to lube anything. But although it's about four years old, it's still in the box. I get enough drill press action at work every day, you see ;. I do have a much smaller version, unboxed, in my workshop, and as I recall it doesn't have any lube points either.

Key features of a drill press: chuck capacity - should be at least 1/2 inch. 5/8 is better. Motor HP. Most seem to be at least 1/2 hp. More is better. Distance between center of chuck and the column. Multiply by two, that is how the drill press is rated. For example, my little one is a 10" model. Which means there is 5" between the chuck and the column. More is better, but also heavier. The other points are sort of obvious: the more sturdy the column, the table, and the head, the better. If there is adjustment for table tilt, fine, but make sure you can keep it at 90 degrees reliably as well. A crank to lift and lower the table is better than a simple clamp. The "throw" of the spindle is also something to look for. More is better. Allows you to drill deeper.

Real fancy drill presses may have extra features: a way to reverse the spindle rotation (handy for power tapping holes); a continuously variable speed control - no need to change belt position on pulleys; larger square tables with keyway slots instead of just holes or plain slots. But if you just want to drill some occasional holes, a more basic drill press will do just fine.

 

[volvoguy87]

Pics will come later.

It has been a long day and it's not over yet, so I'll take pics when I have time this weekend.

I intend to use the drill press to drill holes in window stops so I can put in adjustable grommets so the stops can be easily adjusted to keep these old sashes fitting snugly in their tracks.
Certainly nothing complicated.

Thanks and keep up the info. I've never heard of Guardian Power before,
Dave