Questions about bath towels....
- Thread starter revvinkevin
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@ appnut...
Whatever length of time your washer has for final rinse, and main "normal" wash cycle is fine. If have to choose "short" or "long" go with former. If can do wash by time eight to ten minutes should be fine. Especially with a top loader as you don't want to bat things about for too long.
Wash time with top loading washer with central beaters.
Maytag long advised short wash times of 3-5 minutes for their wringer washers. Things varied by certain conditions but long wash times were frowned upon because of soil depositing back on laundry, and or increase potential for wear on textiles.
https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?42846
Mechanical action of top loading washers is generally more aggressive than H-axis hence former can get away with shorter wash times.
Whatever length of time your washer has for final rinse, and main "normal" wash cycle is fine. If have to choose "short" or "long" go with former. If can do wash by time eight to ten minutes should be fine. Especially with a top loader as you don't want to bat things about for too long.
Wash time with top loading washer with central beaters.
Maytag long advised short wash times of 3-5 minutes for their wringer washers. Things varied by certain conditions but long wash times were frowned upon because of soil depositing back on laundry, and or increase potential for wear on textiles.
https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?42846
Mechanical action of top loading washers is generally more aggressive than H-axis hence former can get away with shorter wash times.
I'm dealing with a front loader. I can do however long it takes to heat the water 2 a higher temperature.
You don't want it to go on for too long. Otherwise whatever is removed from items will start redepositing back onto fabric.
If towels are already clean before beginning this process there's no worries about using hot water from start. Unlike dirty laundry which would be soiled with albuminous substances likely to coagulate in presence of heat, clean items should be free of such substances.
If towels are already clean before beginning this process there's no worries about using hot water from start. Unlike dirty laundry which would be soiled with albuminous substances likely to coagulate in presence of heat, clean items should be free of such substances.
Cycle times
<span style="font-family: helvetica;">So.........all this talk about how long to agitate or tumble your clothes has me wondering. My washer has a ton of different wash cycles for different types of clothes and fabrics. The book lists each cycle and the different temps you can select in each cycle but it doesn't list the times for each sequence in the cycle. And for each I can set the soil level and I suspect that affects the timing for each sequence. I have a Miele washer and I can't find this on their website. Does anyone know where I can find this information? I'd like to know how the cycles break down to wash, rinse and spin and how long for each.</span>
<span style="font-family: helvetica;">So.........all this talk about how long to agitate or tumble your clothes has me wondering. My washer has a ton of different wash cycles for different types of clothes and fabrics. The book lists each cycle and the different temps you can select in each cycle but it doesn't list the times for each sequence in the cycle. And for each I can set the soil level and I suspect that affects the timing for each sequence. I have a Miele washer and I can't find this on their website. Does anyone know where I can find this information? I'd like to know how the cycles break down to wash, rinse and spin and how long for each.</span>
golittlesport
Well-known member
Fluffiest towels
Kevin, just dry the towels in the Frigidaire Filtrator for fluffiest towels ever! Easy peasy!
Kevin, just dry the towels in the Frigidaire Filtrator for fluffiest towels ever! Easy peasy!
twintubdexter
Well-known member
<span style="font-size: 14pt; color: #008000;">Frankly, I was waiting for someone to say they did separate loads for bath towels, separate loads for hand towels and still another for wash cloths (affectionately called wash rags during my aristocratic upbringing). Unless you're going to be wearing the towel, I don't understand different sets for different seasons, but then I've never lived where it gets really cold. I use fabric softener on just about everything and have no problem with towels. Years ago I bought a set at soon-to-be-gone Kohl's called "quick dry" towels. I thought this meant they dried quickly in the dryer but no, it meant they dried you quickly. I have newer towels, some much thicker and fluffier than these, but even washed without softener, I keep going back to the QD old ones. I probably couldn't find them again. Back before Covid when I did a lot of "over-night" entertaining, I always put the new towels out as a courtesy. Just call me Mr. Thoughtful.</span>
bradfordwhite
Well-known member
lol
Routine ""over-night" entertaining" suggests a need for something heavy duty, durable, resists stains, and is perhaps puncture resistant. Maybe a commercial grade hotel sheet with sewn in pockets to hold water bottles, condoms, hand-cuffs, and other sundry items.
Routine ""over-night" entertaining" suggests a need for something heavy duty, durable, resists stains, and is perhaps puncture resistant. Maybe a commercial grade hotel sheet with sewn in pockets to hold water bottles, condoms, hand-cuffs, and other sundry items.
towels
I always wash our towels in hot. For a while I was using the Whitest Whites cycle on Sanitize temp in the Duet. In the Kenmore, I have been using the Sanitize cycle (heats to 65ºC). I use 2 Tbsp STPP, Tide Powder, 1 cup ammonia, and a little Downy. I agree that drying certainly makes the towels softer and fluffier. However, one thing I am shocked that has not been mentioned is rinsing! I always add an extra rinse as well (Kenmore does 3 rinses anyways on Sanitize). I find it helps quite a bit!
Speaking of medical providers, I am one. I am disgusted by the number of advanced practitioners that wash their scrubs and white coats in COLD! Absolutely unacceptable considering we are in a pandemic. You should see their faces when I tell them I only wash mine using the Sanitize cycle.
I always wash our towels in hot. For a while I was using the Whitest Whites cycle on Sanitize temp in the Duet. In the Kenmore, I have been using the Sanitize cycle (heats to 65ºC). I use 2 Tbsp STPP, Tide Powder, 1 cup ammonia, and a little Downy. I agree that drying certainly makes the towels softer and fluffier. However, one thing I am shocked that has not been mentioned is rinsing! I always add an extra rinse as well (Kenmore does 3 rinses anyways on Sanitize). I find it helps quite a bit!
Speaking of medical providers, I am one. I am disgusted by the number of advanced practitioners that wash their scrubs and white coats in COLD! Absolutely unacceptable considering we are in a pandemic. You should see their faces when I tell them I only wash mine using the Sanitize cycle.
My favorite towel washer, ever. I've been using a commercial detergent (w/phosphates) on my towels (all white) and it needs a bit of softener in the rinse or they dry rather harsh. I use a commercial softener as well, very thin consistency and very light scent. Just a couple of tablespoons is all it takes.
I have a dozen or so bath towels, 6 from Frontgate that have been some of my all-time favorites. Others are from Costco, have always been pleased with them in the past. I replaced four or so every year to eighteen months when they went on sale, but the latest batch I bought have been a let-down. Same brand but quality has declined.
Is using vinegar safe for rubber products, such as front loader boots/gaskets? Seen conflicting information.
I have a set of bath towels (extra-large, bath "sheets") that I routinely wash in hot in the Neptune 7500. That means over 125F. I can squeeze in five such, no more than that, or it has trouble spinning.
They seemed to be getting a bit rough, although the water here is generally considered to be on the soft side. I did a load of five with a cup of distilled vinegar, 15 minute wash, Not surprisingly, there was a bit of sudsing. Not a lot, but definitely visible. No rinse or spin, just drain. Then I repeated the hot cycle with a cup of baking soda. Just a drain, no spin. After that I washed them with the usual HE liquid, and no fabric softener.
At the end, after tumble drying they *seemed* to be a bit softer than those I hadn't washed, but the difference was quite slight.
YMMV
They seemed to be getting a bit rough, although the water here is generally considered to be on the soft side. I did a load of five with a cup of distilled vinegar, 15 minute wash, Not surprisingly, there was a bit of sudsing. Not a lot, but definitely visible. No rinse or spin, just drain. Then I repeated the hot cycle with a cup of baking soda. Just a drain, no spin. After that I washed them with the usual HE liquid, and no fabric softener.
At the end, after tumble drying they *seemed* to be a bit softer than those I hadn't washed, but the difference was quite slight.
YMMV
@appnut
There is considerable debate about use of vinegar in domestic washing machines.
Some strongly defend the practice saying amount of household vinegar (5% acidity) which should be small, then given amount of water it will be diluted in for rinse cycle shouldn't cause problems.
OTOH there are those including professionals who say *no* to any sort of vinegar or worse, commercial laundry products in domestic washing machines.
It comes down from what one has read to difference between industrial/commercial washing machines and domestic.
The latter are made from metals and other substances designed to withstand repeated and frequent exposure to the powerful acids and base substances used in such laundering.
Domestic washing machines OTOH are made from "soft" metals and other bits (like rubber) that can be harmed by exposure to strong acids or bases.
If you notice packets of washing machine cleaners that are acidic always call for using in main wash cycle, then followed by one or more rinses. This one supposes brings down pH level on interior surfaces by using fresh water which should be at or near neutral pH.
It isn't just vinegar, but citric or any other acid is on that no-no list as well.
https://www.bosch-home.com/us/owner...-machine-citric-acid-to-clean-washing-machine
https://www.bosch-home.com/us/owner...ing-cleaning-the-washing-machine-with-vinegar
https://www.consumerreports.org/cle...r-clean-with-vinegar-distilled-white-vinegar/
https://www.houzz.com/discussions/2414961/don-t-use-vinegar-in-your-washing-machine
Interestingly am reading in more and more owner manuals for at least European H-axis washing machines that long as a good (preferably powder) detergent is used in proper dosing, use of separate limescale removing products aren't necessary.
https://www.yourspares.co.uk/advice/limescale-in-washing-machine-.aspx
There is considerable debate about use of vinegar in domestic washing machines.
Some strongly defend the practice saying amount of household vinegar (5% acidity) which should be small, then given amount of water it will be diluted in for rinse cycle shouldn't cause problems.
OTOH there are those including professionals who say *no* to any sort of vinegar or worse, commercial laundry products in domestic washing machines.
It comes down from what one has read to difference between industrial/commercial washing machines and domestic.
The latter are made from metals and other substances designed to withstand repeated and frequent exposure to the powerful acids and base substances used in such laundering.
Domestic washing machines OTOH are made from "soft" metals and other bits (like rubber) that can be harmed by exposure to strong acids or bases.
If you notice packets of washing machine cleaners that are acidic always call for using in main wash cycle, then followed by one or more rinses. This one supposes brings down pH level on interior surfaces by using fresh water which should be at or near neutral pH.
It isn't just vinegar, but citric or any other acid is on that no-no list as well.
https://www.bosch-home.com/us/owner...-machine-citric-acid-to-clean-washing-machine
https://www.bosch-home.com/us/owner...ing-cleaning-the-washing-machine-with-vinegar
https://www.consumerreports.org/cle...r-clean-with-vinegar-distilled-white-vinegar/
https://www.houzz.com/discussions/2414961/don-t-use-vinegar-in-your-washing-machine
Interestingly am reading in more and more owner manuals for at least European H-axis washing machines that long as a good (preferably powder) detergent is used in proper dosing, use of separate limescale removing products aren't necessary.
https://www.yourspares.co.uk/advice/limescale-in-washing-machine-.aspx
Yeah right. The Bosch main ingredient is citric acid...
To some extent most washing machine "cleaners" contain some sort of acid. However what makers know and most end users do not is that complex formula of product means it is buffered to a pH that shouldn't harm washing machine parts.
Bosch, Miele and others who sell such products know what range pH of water at proper dilution (when product is used as directed) will be. Something that will elude domestic users simply pouring various amounts of different acids do not.
https://www.which.co.uk/reviews/was...ashing-machine-cleaners-compared-a0CIG8G4tDOD
https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-00311925-Washing-Machines-Cleaner/dp/B07MJHJ19W
Bosch, Miele and others who sell such products know what range pH of water at proper dilution (when product is used as directed) will be. Something that will elude domestic users simply pouring various amounts of different acids do not.
https://www.which.co.uk/reviews/was...ashing-machine-cleaners-compared-a0CIG8G4tDOD
https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-00311925-Washing-Machines-Cleaner/dp/B07MJHJ19W
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
I have run smaller amounts of vinegar in lieu of fabric softener in the Neptune MAH 7500 multiple times in the past, and haven't experienced any problems with component damage. So I don't think the rubber components have been adversely affected, nor any of the metal part (which appear to be good quality stainless steel). After I saw posts here warning that vinegar as a fabric softener might do damage, I stopped using it. But given my positive experience I might resume its usage, although I'm also not sure it's necessary. A few ounces in the final rinse likely will not leave any harmful acidity in the machine anyway.
For loads other than towels I usually add a TBS STPP, and generally I use a liquid HE detergent (currently the excellent Kirkland Ultra Clean HE Liquid); I use enough to produce a very thin layer of suds.
For loads other than towels I usually add a TBS STPP, and generally I use a liquid HE detergent (currently the excellent Kirkland Ultra Clean HE Liquid); I use enough to produce a very thin layer of suds.
bradfordwhite
Well-known member
So we Shouldn't question if bleach will harm a rubber boot, bleach being something poisonous to all life,
but we SHOULD question vinegar?
Vinegar is something we can freely ingest, and do when eating pickles or other such foods.
I keep white vinegar in a spray bottle to use for all types of eco-friendly cleaning and personal hygiene. When flossing I will use a spray of vinegar to rinse my mouth as a mild antiseptic.
but we SHOULD question vinegar?
Vinegar is something we can freely ingest, and do when eating pickles or other such foods.
I keep white vinegar in a spray bottle to use for all types of eco-friendly cleaning and personal hygiene. When flossing I will use a spray of vinegar to rinse my mouth as a mild antiseptic.
Do I have to explain to you the difference between consuming foods soaked in brine versus drinking straight vinegar? Go ahead, drink a glass of white or apple cider vinegar and report back.
And for your further information chlorine bleach is not some benign substance; it can in many instance harm certain washing machine parts. Many makers of European washing machines do not recommend use of it, or only in limited manner.
Some have had to give in to chlorine bleach use as Americans love the stuff, and use copious amounts yearly for laundry purposes. OTOH in Europe eau de Javel long has been known for the damage it can cause textiles and other issues. Hence their preference for oxygen bleaching at high or boiling water temperatures.
Am not seeking to start WWIII over this matter; if anyone wants to use vinegar, citric acid, hydrochloric acid, or anything else can get hands on, knock yourselves out....
And for your further information chlorine bleach is not some benign substance; it can in many instance harm certain washing machine parts. Many makers of European washing machines do not recommend use of it, or only in limited manner.
Some have had to give in to chlorine bleach use as Americans love the stuff, and use copious amounts yearly for laundry purposes. OTOH in Europe eau de Javel long has been known for the damage it can cause textiles and other issues. Hence their preference for oxygen bleaching at high or boiling water temperatures.
Am not seeking to start WWIII over this matter; if anyone wants to use vinegar, citric acid, hydrochloric acid, or anything else can get hands on, knock yourselves out....
Preach it/Sing it Launderess!!
I haven't used LCB since getting my Duet December 2011 with it's Allergen and Sanitize wash temperatures combined with Tide Powder w/Bleach Alternative. European approach all the way!! Gimme a washer with an onboard heater any day. Far more civilized!!! And my garments that used to require LCB are lasting much longer.
I haven't used LCB since getting my Duet December 2011 with it's Allergen and Sanitize wash temperatures combined with Tide Powder w/Bleach Alternative. European approach all the way!! Gimme a washer with an onboard heater any day. Far more civilized!!! And my garments that used to require LCB are lasting much longer.
Much as one would love the larger capacity of SQ front loader, just cannot pull the trigger when one appears in area on CL or eBay. Am just used to my European washers with built in heaters.
Still if Big Bertha (Miele W1070) finally pushes up daisies may end up with a SQ one of these days.
Still if Big Bertha (Miele W1070) finally pushes up daisies may end up with a SQ one of these days.
