That acorn shaped piece just threads into the agitate shaft.Right hand threads, IIRC. That one's pretty rusty, it may take some doing to get it loose.
QUESTIONS FOR THE 1-18 FRIGIDAIRE EXPERTS
- Thread starter soberleaf
- Start date
everythingold
Well-known member
PITA PITA PITA
Kudos for your perserverence Pete. These machine are not fun to work on, but the end product is amazing. I have an in the box bearing. Matt
Kudos for your perserverence Pete. These machine are not fun to work on, but the end product is amazing. I have an in the box bearing. Matt
thanks goatfarmer, thanks matt
going to get that "acorn" peice off today, just so i can say i did it.
matt, i'll e mail you directly as i would like to buy that bearing from you.
yea, this has been fun and a good learning experience. i'm keeping my eye out for another 1-18 so GOATFARMER or MATT if you get any please let me know. would like a spare!
going to get that "acorn" peice off today, just so i can say i did it.
matt, i'll e mail you directly as i would like to buy that bearing from you.
yea, this has been fun and a good learning experience. i'm keeping my eye out for another 1-18 so GOATFARMER or MATT if you get any please let me know. would like a spare!
I personally haven't pulled a 1-18 bearing, but they look 'standard' and, more than likely, could be crossed over to an alternate. Post the number that is stamped off the upper bearing and I'll see if I can find an alternate through Grainger, etc.
There are two bearnings - and upper and a lower. I'd hazzard a guess that they would need to be pressed out/pressed in from the looks of it.
There are two bearnings - and upper and a lower. I'd hazzard a guess that they would need to be pressed out/pressed in from the looks of it.
If it ain't broke...
There was a special tool from Robinair sold to help remove the agitate shaft coupler from the shaft and the agitate arm. If you don't need to remove it for replacement, leave it alone. You really don't want to dig up another problem with an NLA part that doesn't need to be disturbed. The tool was used to hold the body of the coupler and then a wrench to un-thread it from the end of the shaft.
If you remove the bearings, you should be able to get them at your local bearing/machine parts supply house - see your yellow pages. The one you pictured looks like a New Departure or similar brand bearing and there are numbers along the sides that will indicate the sizes for replacement. Even if the numbers are not fully legible, take the bearing to the shop with you (as you should in any case) and the salesperson can measure it inside and out and get the replacements for you. It would be shocking if this weren't a standard-sized bearing as custom bearings are very expensive and when profit is the motive in building appliances (all evidence having been to the contrary at GM Frigidaire) standard parts were utilized whenever possible.
Best of luck!
There was a special tool from Robinair sold to help remove the agitate shaft coupler from the shaft and the agitate arm. If you don't need to remove it for replacement, leave it alone. You really don't want to dig up another problem with an NLA part that doesn't need to be disturbed. The tool was used to hold the body of the coupler and then a wrench to un-thread it from the end of the shaft.
If you remove the bearings, you should be able to get them at your local bearing/machine parts supply house - see your yellow pages. The one you pictured looks like a New Departure or similar brand bearing and there are numbers along the sides that will indicate the sizes for replacement. Even if the numbers are not fully legible, take the bearing to the shop with you (as you should in any case) and the salesperson can measure it inside and out and get the replacements for you. It would be shocking if this weren't a standard-sized bearing as custom bearings are very expensive and when profit is the motive in building appliances (all evidence having been to the contrary at GM Frigidaire) standard parts were utilized whenever possible.
Best of luck!
thanks again
i've learned a lot in the last day tearing this machine apart! i know it will run again, it ran great except for the water leak when i got it last month.
i might not do the bearings yet but if EVERYTHINGOLD has a set i will most probably still buy them. the spin bearings on this machine are noisy but i may just run with it for now. i can always take it apart again later if i need to, now that i know how. and that hub nut will not be as hard to loosen next time around. i am probably going to pick up an extra water seal while i'm at it. i have one but there are more out there that i found.
i will do a post when i start putting it all back together later this month!
thanks
i've learned a lot in the last day tearing this machine apart! i know it will run again, it ran great except for the water leak when i got it last month.
i might not do the bearings yet but if EVERYTHINGOLD has a set i will most probably still buy them. the spin bearings on this machine are noisy but i may just run with it for now. i can always take it apart again later if i need to, now that i know how. and that hub nut will not be as hard to loosen next time around. i am probably going to pick up an extra water seal while i'm at it. i have one but there are more out there that i found.
i will do a post when i start putting it all back together later this month!
thanks
dnastrau
Well-known member
Oiling the motor: SAE 20 electric motor oil
Based on what others have said here, make sure to only use SAE 20 oil (non-detergent) meant for electric motors. 3-in-1 makes it for this purpose and is sold in blue and white cans (see link.) Best wishes on a successful project completion!
Andrew S.
http://www.3inone.com/products/motor-oil/
Based on what others have said here, make sure to only use SAE 20 oil (non-detergent) meant for electric motors. 3-in-1 makes it for this purpose and is sold in blue and white cans (see link.) Best wishes on a successful project completion!
Andrew S.
http://www.3inone.com/products/motor-oil/
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