QUESTIONS FOR THE 1-18 FRIGIDAIRE EXPERTS
- Thread starter norfolksouthern
- Start date
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another view of transmission
with the pump impeller still on. i assume it screws off the shaft but as yet have not tried it. will do that tomorrow. i have a new pump seal on order from a friend who is selling me some frigidaire parts.
with the pump impeller still on. i assume it screws off the shaft but as yet have not tried it. will do that tomorrow. i have a new pump seal on order from a friend who is selling me some frigidaire parts.
all in all
i have learned a lot about how to take apart these great old washers! thanks to everyone along the way. and yes, JETCONE you are right i should have that wrench! i am going to buy it.
and NORFOLK, i will send you the website where you can get it
as well. actually it's listed in a post here, i will get the number and send it to you as well.
so i have a new bellows, new seal, if i could only find spin bearings it would be completely tuned up when i am thru with it!
gonna stop for the night and get organized and put all my tools away here, it's been a very busy day of washer fixing!
i have learned a lot about how to take apart these great old washers! thanks to everyone along the way. and yes, JETCONE you are right i should have that wrench! i am going to buy it.
and NORFOLK, i will send you the website where you can get it
as well. actually it's listed in a post here, i will get the number and send it to you as well.
so i have a new bellows, new seal, if i could only find spin bearings it would be completely tuned up when i am thru with it!
gonna stop for the night and get organized and put all my tools away here, it's been a very busy day of washer fixing!
norfolksouthern
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2009
- Messages
- 544
If I can restore the machine I bought from Goatfarmer, then this would teach me a lot about fixing these wonderful machines. Honestly, a 1-18 is not all that difficult to figure out. All the electronics are simple harnesses, and the cabinet as well as the tub assembly removes easily. Reassembly is intuitive, almost like working on a DD Kenmore as long as the transmission and pump assembly are properly in place.
I just need to find a way to get that agitator nut off in one piece, then my hope is that I can get to the other parts so I can give it the new seals it deserves. Well, a new agitator too. Why settle for just one, when I can have two instead!
Also: I can certainly use more info on the 1-18 timers, and how to rebuild them. Has anybody attempted a project like that?
NorfolkSouthern
I just need to find a way to get that agitator nut off in one piece, then my hope is that I can get to the other parts so I can give it the new seals it deserves. Well, a new agitator too. Why settle for just one, when I can have two instead!
Also: I can certainly use more info on the 1-18 timers, and how to rebuild them. Has anybody attempted a project like that?
NorfolkSouthern
i don't understand
why that top nut won't come loose if you put vice grips on the agitate shaft at the bottom of the shaft like i did and use a socket on that top nut. it's not that big of a nut and bolt, surely it will come loose if you hold the shaft from turning!
is the plastic pulsator agitator broken? i wasn't sure why you were looking for a new one.
why that top nut won't come loose if you put vice grips on the agitate shaft at the bottom of the shaft like i did and use a socket on that top nut. it's not that big of a nut and bolt, surely it will come loose if you hold the shaft from turning!
is the plastic pulsator agitator broken? i wasn't sure why you were looking for a new one.
norfolksouthern
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2009
- Messages
- 544
There are some chunks broken off the bottom of the blue cone from the machine I got from goatfarmer, the one I'm hoping to rebuild. I think someone ran a belt with a heavy metal buckle through it, or maybe something else.
NorfolkSouthern
NorfolkSouthern
i will keep my eye out
for a 1-18 pulsator cone for you!
i'm going to take my time with this rebuild, spend the next few days cleaning parts and getting everything in order so when i go to put it all back together i will already have it in my mind how to do it.
for a 1-18 pulsator cone for you!
i'm going to take my time with this rebuild, spend the next few days cleaning parts and getting everything in order so when i go to put it all back together i will already have it in my mind how to do it.
question for jetcone
you said this is just a nut with a lock washer. does the pulsator shaft screw into the top of this walnut shaped "nut". if so is it left handed thread or right. i held the shaft with vice grips and tried to turn this "nut" with a small pipe wrench but nothing happened. am i doing something wrong. even though i don't need to remove the shaft from it i wanted to learn what it was all about for future reference.
enlighten me please!
you said this is just a nut with a lock washer. does the pulsator shaft screw into the top of this walnut shaped "nut". if so is it left handed thread or right. i held the shaft with vice grips and tried to turn this "nut" with a small pipe wrench but nothing happened. am i doing something wrong. even though i don't need to remove the shaft from it i wanted to learn what it was all about for future reference.
enlighten me please!
That acorn shaped piece just threads into the agitate shaft.Right hand threads, IIRC. That one's pretty rusty, it may take some doing to get it loose.
everythingold
Well-known member
PITA PITA PITA
Kudos for your perserverence Pete. These machine are not fun to work on, but the end product is amazing. I have an in the box bearing. Matt
Kudos for your perserverence Pete. These machine are not fun to work on, but the end product is amazing. I have an in the box bearing. Matt
thanks goatfarmer, thanks matt
going to get that "acorn" peice off today, just so i can say i did it.
matt, i'll e mail you directly as i would like to buy that bearing from you.
yea, this has been fun and a good learning experience. i'm keeping my eye out for another 1-18 so GOATFARMER or MATT if you get any please let me know. would like a spare!
going to get that "acorn" peice off today, just so i can say i did it.
matt, i'll e mail you directly as i would like to buy that bearing from you.
yea, this has been fun and a good learning experience. i'm keeping my eye out for another 1-18 so GOATFARMER or MATT if you get any please let me know. would like a spare!
I personally haven't pulled a 1-18 bearing, but they look 'standard' and, more than likely, could be crossed over to an alternate. Post the number that is stamped off the upper bearing and I'll see if I can find an alternate through Grainger, etc.
There are two bearnings - and upper and a lower. I'd hazzard a guess that they would need to be pressed out/pressed in from the looks of it.
There are two bearnings - and upper and a lower. I'd hazzard a guess that they would need to be pressed out/pressed in from the looks of it.
If it ain't broke...
There was a special tool from Robinair sold to help remove the agitate shaft coupler from the shaft and the agitate arm. If you don't need to remove it for replacement, leave it alone. You really don't want to dig up another problem with an NLA part that doesn't need to be disturbed. The tool was used to hold the body of the coupler and then a wrench to un-thread it from the end of the shaft.
If you remove the bearings, you should be able to get them at your local bearing/machine parts supply house - see your yellow pages. The one you pictured looks like a New Departure or similar brand bearing and there are numbers along the sides that will indicate the sizes for replacement. Even if the numbers are not fully legible, take the bearing to the shop with you (as you should in any case) and the salesperson can measure it inside and out and get the replacements for you. It would be shocking if this weren't a standard-sized bearing as custom bearings are very expensive and when profit is the motive in building appliances (all evidence having been to the contrary at GM Frigidaire) standard parts were utilized whenever possible.
Best of luck!
There was a special tool from Robinair sold to help remove the agitate shaft coupler from the shaft and the agitate arm. If you don't need to remove it for replacement, leave it alone. You really don't want to dig up another problem with an NLA part that doesn't need to be disturbed. The tool was used to hold the body of the coupler and then a wrench to un-thread it from the end of the shaft.
If you remove the bearings, you should be able to get them at your local bearing/machine parts supply house - see your yellow pages. The one you pictured looks like a New Departure or similar brand bearing and there are numbers along the sides that will indicate the sizes for replacement. Even if the numbers are not fully legible, take the bearing to the shop with you (as you should in any case) and the salesperson can measure it inside and out and get the replacements for you. It would be shocking if this weren't a standard-sized bearing as custom bearings are very expensive and when profit is the motive in building appliances (all evidence having been to the contrary at GM Frigidaire) standard parts were utilized whenever possible.
Best of luck!
thanks again
i've learned a lot in the last day tearing this machine apart! i know it will run again, it ran great except for the water leak when i got it last month.
i might not do the bearings yet but if EVERYTHINGOLD has a set i will most probably still buy them. the spin bearings on this machine are noisy but i may just run with it for now. i can always take it apart again later if i need to, now that i know how. and that hub nut will not be as hard to loosen next time around. i am probably going to pick up an extra water seal while i'm at it. i have one but there are more out there that i found.
i will do a post when i start putting it all back together later this month!
thanks
i've learned a lot in the last day tearing this machine apart! i know it will run again, it ran great except for the water leak when i got it last month.
i might not do the bearings yet but if EVERYTHINGOLD has a set i will most probably still buy them. the spin bearings on this machine are noisy but i may just run with it for now. i can always take it apart again later if i need to, now that i know how. and that hub nut will not be as hard to loosen next time around. i am probably going to pick up an extra water seal while i'm at it. i have one but there are more out there that i found.
i will do a post when i start putting it all back together later this month!
thanks
dnastrau
Well-known member
Oiling the motor: SAE 20 electric motor oil
Based on what others have said here, make sure to only use SAE 20 oil (non-detergent) meant for electric motors. 3-in-1 makes it for this purpose and is sold in blue and white cans (see link.) Best wishes on a successful project completion!
Andrew S.
www.3inone.com
Based on what others have said here, make sure to only use SAE 20 oil (non-detergent) meant for electric motors. 3-in-1 makes it for this purpose and is sold in blue and white cans (see link.) Best wishes on a successful project completion!
Andrew S.
3-IN-ONE Motor Oil
Keep those small motors humming happily with this versatile motor lubricant.
www.3inone.com
