Questions regarding Maytag LA712 refurb (series 04)

[ps91rick]

Ok.. Update for today.. I got the whole enchilada taken apart (except I've not tried disassembling the trans yet). Here's some pics for ya..

In photo 1 you can see that the top of the trans appears to have had water issues in the past -- I did NOT put that there in the process of taking the machine apart. It almost looks like it was sitting in a river silt bed for a while..

I'm not sure where to start with the trans -- I can't get the thin metal collar off the upper shaft. That's the one that's supposed to be lubed before putting it on. It's had water issues I believe as you can see in the photo. Should I cut it off with a grinder? (see photo 3)

Yes, I had to use a grinder to get the tub seal assembly off before I could remove the outer wash basin from the machine. I nicked a few places on the main shaft of the trans but I don't believe they're show stoppers.

Right now oil is dribbling out the top stem of the trans as its sitting on the floor.

 

[ps91rick]

Ok.. I got the sleeve removed from the trans neck.. it broke in pieces after some tapping to loosen it.. solves that problem! Yes, I need a new damper! It’s in bad shape as you predicted.

 

[ps91rick]

My question is whether you believe this is rebuild quality.. I’m concerned about the casing that has the counter balance on it.. the threads on the outside of the case that the two tubs screw onto, are in pretty rough shape..

 

[ps91rick]

Ok.. Can someone tell me why its a bad idea to take the agitator shaft out of the top housing? I’ve read that in the other thread on rebuilding here..

As I was having oil leaking through that shaft area and into the tub, isn’t it necessary to rebuild that area completely or am I missing something?

 

[combo52]

Rough Washer

I would look for a better machine, at least for a parts donor, we recycle a lot of MT stack machines and the washer part is usually like new as most of these come out of 1 BR condos and never had much use and weren't in damp basements and were never allowed to leak water.

 

In any case you need a transmission, damper dome, mounting stem and seal kit and probably top tub bearing.

 

John L.

 

[ps91rick]

Thanks John.. I found someone selling 6 washers of different makes & models. All are DOA for some reason or another. He’s selling each one for $15.. He’s got an almond Maytag — It’s roughly the same age I think. I don’t know the state of the machine — what’s dead or ?? I sent the guy a note. Maybe it’ll be a good donor as you suggest.

 

[lowefficiency]

I'd agree that you need too many parts, and the most economical way (or perhaps the only practical way) to get all of them is to find a donor machine.

>> Ok.. Can someone tell me why its a bad idea to take the agitator shaft out of the top housing?
>> I’ve read that in the other thread on rebuilding here..

The reason why is that that pin can be in there REALLY tight, and that sintered gear is easy to damage when driving the pin out. You could also damage the bushing if you weren't careful - you have to make a fixture that supports the gear, not the transmission housing. So the general advice, for machines that seem OK that you are rebuilding for kicks, is to just leave that assembly together. You're likely to do more harm than good in removing it if it doesn't need it.

The groov pin is yet another NLA part too, for what it's worth.

 

[ps91rick]

I’ll admit that at this point I’m thinking of just using the brand-new orbital trans sitting in its box in the garage and buy a replacement damper (which I found that looks really good). Then the rest of the rebuild ought to be fairly straightforward and I can put this rebuild behind me.. I know there’s some difference between the Pitman vs Orbital but my garage is getting full and I’m not sure I’ve got space to bring another washer home at this point. Doh!

 

[lowefficiency]

You could certainly do that, but take note that you would need a replacement agitator as well...

 

[ps91rick]

Dang.. There’s always a hitch!!

 

[combo52]

Orbital Transmission In a MT A712

Yes you would want to get a Load-Sensor agitator, and if you convert to a 50 cycle pulley and belts then you will have a serious machine that can start to run with the better TL washers from its era.

 

Is this machine going to be your only washer and how much use will it get ?.

 

.John L.

 

[ps91rick]

Whatever I get working, will be my primary machine — the better it can deal with dirty loads, the better. I heard back from the $15 maytag guy and he said a plastic piece that holds the discharge tube was broken in a move but was otherwise functional. Sounds like a deal to me! I’m not sure of the vintage but its in almond and has a similar (but simpler) control panel...

 

[ps91rick]

Stupid question.. IF this possible donor machine has a light green agitator like my current fix-it machine has, is it safe to assume there’s a Pitman transmission in the machine? But if the color is of the agitator is something else, that it’s likely got an orbital trans..??

I’m just trying to line up my ducks for the time when I get the opportunity to look at this possible donor so that I can have some confidence of what it might be configuration wise. I’m hoping to take a driver with me to remove one of the big circles on the back of the machine and possibly see the state of things inside without pulling the front panel off.

 

[combo52]

Possible Donor Machine

Hi rick, It sounds like this could be a good donor, some of the early Orbital trans machines had a turquoise but different style agitator, so it could be either transmission.

 

Big question is whether it is the smaller 16 gallon tub or the larger 19 gallon tub machine like you have now, The transmissions are different, but you could use the top cover and shaft from the 16 gallon machine on your lower part if it is a PT.

 

I would check it out, the damper is likely good as well.

 

John L.

 

[combo52]

Possible Donor Machine

Hi rick, It sounds like this could be a good donor, some of the early Orbital trans machines had a turquoise but different style agitator, so it could be either transmission.

 

Big question is whether it is the smaller 16 gallon tub or the larger 19 gallon tub machine like you have now, The transmissions are different, but you could use the top cover and shaft from the 16 gallon machine on your lower part if it is a PT.

 

I would check it out, the damper is likely good as well.

 

John L.

 

[ps91rick]

ok.. So the PT transmissions are different depending on the tub size? Ok.. but some parts of the trans might be usable.

One question though -- in my search for a donor.. John -- you mention Maytag Stackables as potential donors .. Would these have a damper that might fit -- I'm assuming not but thought I'd ask. my $15 donor I've yet to see.. I know the control panel has fewer buttons on it but still don't know the model. I went to look at it yesterday but the guy selling it wasn't apparently home. Doh!

 

[ps91rick]

Another stupid question.. I decided to give the agitator shaft a little play time.. I’m gonna try to remove the gear and drive the pin out that holds the gear on. On the outside of the case (the tub end of the agitator shaft), I removed a spring wrapped around the shaft and beneath that was a very thin copper colored washer..

So.. Is it safe to assume I can get a punch and drive that pin out — assuming that I support the agitator shaft properly to keep stress to a minimum?

 

[ps91rick]

I forgot to show the pic of it..

 

[ps91rick]

Ok.. I was able to use a 1/4” punch and pop that pin out without as much effort as I expected. The shaft is out and frankly looks better than I expected. If there’s supposed to be a rubber seal on this shaft somewhere, I found none. There was a very thin metal washer that was behind the gear and behind that is a washer/spring thing and that was it.

My concern is whether I can reuse the agitator shaft or not. The reason I mention this, is that the collar that is on it near the tub end has a thru crack in it as you can see in the photo. Is that enough to cause water/oil contamination either way? Seems rather small for that.

 

[ps91rick]

I can still get the agitator seal (#WP210690) without issue (which was not present in mine for whatever reason) and I need to order the gasket. I’m thinking that the agitator shaft maybe usable in its current state... If I can ensure the rubber seal works as expected to keep water/oil from mixing then this should be good and its mostly a matter of finding a replacement damper..

Speaking of dampers — for this era washer are they pretty much the same regardless of machine model?