Rebuild of Maytag Transmission and Transplant into LAT 9800 AAW.

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A love story?? Brian states:

"It was mentioned on here quite some time ago that instructions for rebuilding a Maytag transmission with a pictorial would be appreciated and since I was doing it I decided to give it a shot".

I'd like to shout out and say thanks for the "in-depth" explanation, pictorial & video of your rebuild. May your mom have many cherished years of Maytag laundering.

L.P.
 
Since thread resurrection is here...

I thought I would correct an omission, since this thread seems to be referred to occasionally. It's the stop lug adjustment. I will refer to another enlightening thread for this patch. Thank you.

 
Brian, congratulations on your success! I am amazed at your skill and patience. The person(s?)at Maytag who designed this transmission had a genius for keeping things simple, operation-wise, but to disassemble and rebuild a transmission that was more easily snapped together on an assembly line takes real talent.
 
Jon,

That spot you see on the inside threads of the mounting stem is actually the hole where the set screw was. The picture is deceiving. It looks like the set screw but it's really the set screw hole. I tried to remove the mounting stem with a mini-sledge, but it wouldn't budge. I put PB Blaster on it, but no luck. The sledge I have has a rubber coating over it, so that probably reduced the impact. Next time I'll try a non-coated sledge. I was worried about hitting the inside of the basket and busting the porcelain, but I was still hitting hard. I had to wear ear plugs. Hitting that spanner wrench with my head in that tub is deafening. Talk about having your bell rung. Lol.

I wish they made a spanner that went on a pneumatic driver. Wouldn't that be neat?

Brian
 
The sledge I have has a rubber coating over it

You are correct.  Rubber mallets are not intended to drive fasteners or to be used as a hammer.  Looking at the photos and the condition of things, I suspect that if you had used a regular hammer or smaller sledge hammer, both the spanner nut and stem seal would have come off with a few good, hard raps.

 

There's always next time!

 

Ben
 
nylon gear question

At what point did Maytag decide to have a nylon plastic gear installed in the transmission, when all the other parts are heavy steel? It seems like that gear would be a weak point. Does anybody know what particular year model this nylon gear started, and on what model? Is this gear no longer availabe now? Les.
 
whoah!

I saved this page - it's a work of art. You and others here blow me away with your level of restorations and abilities. Late to add any comments, my sincere congratulations on your work and fine photo docs.

Phil
 
Thank you, Phil. And because of you I found a dream of mine - the KDS-60 (KDS-20). If I ever need to it's easily converted to an under counter model. Many times these portable machines saw little use.

The reply I made to Jon a couple up was in error. I got to thinking about it over a year after I posted it. The reason I cut the mounting stem off was because the set screw wouldn't come out. I didn't have a drill that would fit in the basket and still have room to drill it out. If it happens again I'll get a 90 degree adapter or small drill to do the job. Cutting that stem off wasn't fun.

beekeyknee-2014073023101608095_1.jpg

beekeyknee-2014073023101608095_2.jpg
 
".... because of you .."

You're welcome, Brian -thank you for even mentioning it. Beautiful KA - the model is a KDS-20 (not sure of the KDS-60).

If this is a dream appliance, you sorted through alot of DW to decide on this one. How does this become selected as a dream KA over all the other KA models? I mean, there are a few others that are visually(my own judgement tool for now) interesting, as well. :-)
 
A KDS-60 is a KDS-20 disguised in a portables clothing. I wanted an 18 or 20 but the 18 never came along and the 20 isn't bad, so I took it. I don't have room for a built in right now, but hopefully I will in the future.

Anyway all this d/w stuff goes with this thread.

 
Now I know! I just read most of the link you provided. I missed reading that, which often happens to me, as the searching consumes my focus. I arrive at the scene of restoration threads, often last. Oh well.

Thanks again, Brian. It's in great shape and you of course brought it up to a finer looking and operating appliance.
 
LA482 Spin issue...

Hello BeeKeeknee,
Thank you for sharing your experience. I have a question regarding a 1984 Maytag LA482. I've read conflicting info as to how the spin cycle gets the basket up to speed. Is belt slippage how this is accomplished or is there some type of clutch? I am hearing a repeating squealing belt sound during the entire spin cycle. It's coming from the motor pulley. The belt appears to be good and moving the motor a bit on the carriage seems to quiet it. Belt tension is set to 1/2" for pump belt as recommended. Any suggestions are most appreciated! Thanks.
 
Squealing Belt Problems

Pete,

Sorry, I don't check the "My Posts" section of the forum too often. Here's a video of how a Maytag belt and pulley system work. The part about the belt and pulley system is about 1/2 of the way through the video.



The video is from Thread #58081 . If the pulleys on your machine are glazed from belts that the cloth has worn off of,  the motor pulley will squeal against the bare rubber on the main drive belt. I have found that the newer FSP (Whirlpool) replacement belts aren't always of the same quality as the original Maytag belts. I've even used off brand generic belts out of a bin from a local appliance parts store that are better than anything new I've found from FSP. I've also seen what looked to be good generic belts for sale on ebay. As long as the part #'s match or are cross referenced and the belt has the same dimensions and a good cloth cover it shouldn't matter.  I'm sure some purists will want to argue with me but I don't care. If it works it works. A generic belt is on my machine right now and is working better that that FSP thing ever did.  It's the belt with the yellow stripe on it that's going around in the video.  A good layer of cloth wrapped around the belt is crucial for proper operation of the pulley/belt system. Before putting good belts on the machine it is important to clean the pulleys under the machine so the new belts aren't contaminated with the old rubber glaze.

 

Pull the machine out away from the wall, find it's center of gravity on it's two back feet with the back of the control panel propped against the wall. Be very careful during this step. If the machine falls it can do tremendous damage to itself, it's surroundings or you! If the machine doesn't want to slide and it sets on a smooth surface such as finished concrete or tile you can clean a few inches of the floor in front of each foot with Pledge and it will slide much easier. I trust you've cleaned the motor carriage, replaced or checked the glides and put new Polylube back on the carriage and glides? I would do this before changing the belts if you haven't. The best thing to do to stop the squealing is to remove the pulleys, clean off <span style="text-decoration: underline;">all</span> the old glazed rubber with some solvent and coarse steal wool or a bench grinder with a buffing wheel on it. Replace the pulleys checking them for rough spots. 

 

Basically the system has to have smooth, clean pulleys,  proper sized cloth covered belts, a clean properly assembled motor carriage with good glides that are Polylubed and Maytag springs holding the top and bottom of the carriage together and a properly adjusted pump. It helps to have two people to do the motor/pump adjustment, one to pull back on the motor while the other sets the pump, but it can be done by one. When the motor's pulled back by hand and the pump is pushed toward the right in the slots on the frame a slight motion can be felt in the motor as it starts to just move back toward the drive pulley. This is where the pump should be held in place and tightened down for proper adjustment. This can vary according to the pump belt. If it's old. The pump may move all the way to the right without moving the motor. If it does that's fine as long as the pump belt isn't cracked or chipped and likely to fail. Most of the time the pump belts will out last the machines and it's only the drive belt you have to worry about.

 

Be careful to get your stop lug adjustment right on the drive pulley when replacing it. Now replace the belts (or at least the drive belt) with good ones with plenty of cloth on them. Your originals may have had enough cloth on them at the time but they must be contaminated by now, either from the pulleys not being cleaned properly when you worked on it before or from belts of poor quality that were used the last time they were replaced. This happened to me on my first restore. I won't use poor quality FSP belts again. I examine them closely before installation. A side by side comparison will show the difference. Don't forget to get your machine good and level and use the locking nuts. Little things make a lot of difference.  Just as a side note. The thread you were referring to where I cannibalized a 408 for my mothers LAT9800AAW - the belts on the 408 were in good condition with plenty of cloth and I reused them on her machine. Just because they aren't new doesn't mean they are bad. I checked them thoroughly before using them and they have been serving her well. I hope it hasn't been too long and you find my response.

Brian
 
Pete,

 

I just reread your post. "A repeating squealing belt sound during the entire spin cycle." That's odd. Are you sure it's coming from the belt? If the machine is getting up to full speed it shouldn't be squealing at that point. Does it squeal more at the beginning of the spin than at the end or is it a steady repeating squeal from beginning to end? Does the frequency of the squeal increase as the machine spins faster? Usually a squealing belt will squeal a lot at the beginning of the spin cycle and then stop as the machine reaches full spin speed.

 

Brian
 
academy award

wow a wonderful job …thanks for taking the time to help all of us…i need to do this to several machines i have…you make it look so easy ill do two by morning…thanks again….
 
amazing job

Hey im going to restore may tags in every color and im glad people take the time to show how it is done …I know in this world how hard it is time wise ..but thanks again for helping me do this process …Its easy to spew information and it is another to document and preserve history for others to reproduce ..thankyou for this information.
 

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