Repair Advice: 1964 Frigidaire Imperial

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65continental

Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2011
Messages
7
Greetings fellow appliance enthusiasts,

I purchased a turquoise Frigidaire Imperial refrigerator a while back, and am looking for advice about having it repaired. The fridge and freezer compartments were nice and cold when I purchased the unit, but won't get cold now that I have it at home. My parents recommended some guy out of the Yellow Pages that had repaired an early 70's Frigidaire for them at a reasonable price some years ago, but when I had him by to look at mine, he told me to "buy a new fridge and have it painted this color", and promptly left with the cash for the service call. He did mention that it was grounding out 12 volts, which a man that worked on our air conditioner said was due to a bad compressor. Is this true?

After reading the not-so-favorable comments about early 60's Frigidaire fridges in the vintage fridge thread here, I am wondering if it is realistically possible for me to get this machine working again. Am I better off with another brand? I was really disappointed when this stopped working, as I purchased it with the matching Custom Imperial double oven. Should I continue to hunt for a decent repairman, or have a good cry over it, phone the scrap dealer, and hunt for another turquoise replacement?
Any and all advice is appreciated, as I am rather inexperienced in the realm of vintage large appliances.
Have a good afternoon, thanks in advance.

MidCenturyMike

65continental++7-28-2011-10-58-25.jpg
 
First of all the repair is a boor and a cad! Call a real appliance guy maybe even Frig factory service and check. If it needs a new compressor so be it. It's cheaper than a new refrig.
You should be able to tell if the compressor is running or not.
 
I agree with the cuffmeister.  Try to find somebody who will at least diagnose the problem correctly so you know what you're up against.  Do you know anybody who owns income property and has handyman & appliance repair contacts?

 

Since you've already visited the vintage fridge thread, you know that GE and Whirlpool fridges have better reliability if it comes down to replacing the Frigidaire.

 

So welcome to AW.org.  Does your handle indicate that there are some car pix you should maybe post here?  The best, most faithful car my dad ever owned was a '65 Continental.  It ended up in Michigan, by the way . . .

 

 
 
If you're sure the compressor is running and the evap and cond (if it has one) fans are running, sounds like low freon or struck defrost timer. You can check defrost timer yourself. If low freon you'll need a tech but I still say save it.
 
I'm pretty good with my hands...

@ cuffs054: How do I go about testing the defrost timer?

@ rp2813: Thank you for the welcome! Yes, I have a '65 Continental sedan. I just had the carburetor rebuilt this morning, and have been regreasing the power window mechanisms, but I will take and post some photos when its cleaned up.
 
There are two types of defrost set ups; Hot gas and heater. I'm not betting too much on your problem being the timer.
But here's what to do;
Usually behind the kickplate there will be a small timer-type gadget. It will usually have a female screw driver slot of some sort on the front. That is the timer. It regularly triggers the defrost cycle. If it gets stuck in defrost, refrig could get warm.
If yours uses hot gas for defrost it could be acting more like a reverse cycle heat pump (unlikely).
Find the timer. Slowly! turn the screw and observe what happens.
I really am thinking this is a freon issue.

Speaking of Conti power windows, my 69 needed to have the relays cleaned in the trunk. At one point only 1 of the 6 windows would work!
 
So, I just tried the timer

which was only partially held on by one of two screws, which was backed out about half way. It looks like somebody had already taken this off once before, only to discover that the problem wasn't the timer. Now I feel as though I've "been had" twice.
I tried turning the timer screw slowly as you suggested. The low rpm motor runs nicely, but there was no change in fridge function after having turned the screw. The freezer doesn't cool and the coils on the back don't get hot. No freon. Sigh.
 
Could be out of gas, or could be a bad compressor. Hard to tell from a distance, get a qualified tech, who wants to work on it.

 

BTW, the opinions expressed on the other thread about early Frigidaires is just that, OPINIONS. Personally, I think that the early 60's Frigidaires are some of the best refrigerators out there. They are no worse, or better, IMHO, than similar Whirlpool built, or GE built, refrigerators. My dad was a Frigidaire factory trained technician most of his life, I'm well aware of what came through the shop, or what we worked on back then.
 
I also have a 1964 Frigidaire 16 cu.ft. Imperial. I'd also like to get a replacement compressor for it because my other one works better but the 1964 is still in use in my kitchen...

 

I also think that the reliability /durability of older Frigidaire refrigerators isn't an issue but I they might be a bit harder to service than other brands (like many GM Frigidaire appliances). Failures happening in any 30+ (or 45+) years old appliances aren't caused by a lack of durability!

 

A friend of mine has kept his non working RCA Whirlpool bottom freezer refrigerator in his garage for many years. It's about the same age as my Frigidaire fridges and it's been dead for about 10 years (bad compressor). My parents also had an Inglis Whirlpool from the mid seventies that was noisy as hell when it was just a few years old and it also died quite a few years ago. GE fridges with the newer compressor don't last as long as older ones either.

 

Does your compressor makes noise? I have been told that the spring for the barrier in rotary compressors sometimes break, making the compressors more silent but totally ineffective!

 

What's the model number of your fridge? There are two models that are identical from outside in 1964 with different interiors. One has thin wall insulation and 16 cu-ft. and the other model has 14 cu-ft.

 

The picture shows the 16 cu-ft, the 14 cu-ft has a different inner door design and different shelves.

 

Unlike older GE fridges, Frigidaires don't use hot gas defrost. When the fridge is in defrost mode, the compressor and fan shuts down and a heater defrosts the condenser. So if you hear the compressor and fan, you know it's not the defrost timer. Be sure that you feel the air circulating from the ducts in the freezer and in the refrigerator (the outlet is behind the light cover in the center). To test that, just hold the door switch as if the door was closed with one of your hands (in the refrigerator section) and notice if there's any airflow.

 

Did the problem happen suddenly when the refrigerator was moved?

 

 

[this post was last edited: 7/28/2011-18:20]

philr++7-28-2011-18-09-32.jpg
 
Very beautiful Frigidaire...

Here is my experience so take it for what it's worth. I had an early 70's top freezer GM made refrigerator that worked when I bought it from a Craigslist seller but after I got it home it never worked again. I think the springs inside the compressor were brittle and broke during the move. I did everything they say you are supposed to do and waited a full 24 hours before restarting it. When I first turned it on all sounded fine but an hour later I went to check on it and it was warm. You could hear the compressor trying to start for about 5 seconds and then click, it would try again every few minutes. I checked the defrost timer like you did and then started calling tech's. Most of them told me over the phone it was not repairable and to get rid of it and save my money. One guy was willing to come out and he tested it and even put a replacement starter on the compressor but he said it could be a stuck piston because the compressor would not start. When I would ask how much to replace the compressor, not one single repair outfit would do it and most quoted more than the cost of a new refrigerator. They said once you break into the sealed system when replacing a compressor, contaminants getting inside would cause problems later and that it would be impossible to warranty the work. I was just glad I got someone to actually test it and verify that it wasn't some small fixable problem or just low on freon. In your case, I would have it checked by a professional and go from there before junking it.
 
Refrigerator Help

I May Be Able To Help You Out On Your Frigidaire Refrigerator I Have Tech Talk Boooks But I Would Need Your Model And I Could See What Might Be The Problem And I Might Even Have The Part You Need I Have Lots Of Frigidaire Parts From Our Family Business That They Retired They Sold And Repaired Frigidaire Appliances And I Have A Lot Of Parts Except Original Compressors I Might Be Able To Get A New Style Compressor That Would Work If Thats What You Need Any Questions You May Email Me @ [email protected] I Also Have Parts On This Website www.boocoo.com under mark merchandise Maintained By Vintage Appliance Parts.
 
FPI-14B-64-TQ-LHD

When plugged in, the compressor seems to run constantly. I don't hear it shutting off, or trying to shut off. The fridge appeared to work when I purchased it, but finding out today that the defroster switch appears to have been tested and then re installed in a hap-hazard manner makes me think that the previous owner knew that it had issues.
The blower vent in the freezer compartment has the strongest airflow, followed by the protruding vent at the upper right back wall of the fridge, and then the vent hidden behind the light lens, which has what seems to be quite weak airflow.
The fridge didn't receive any major trauma during transport. I certainly never heard any hissing. I guess my problem now is to find someone that 'wants' to work on this, and won't just dismiss me like the last guy.
Thank you all for the great advice and responses!

65continental++7-28-2011-22-04-42.jpg
 
The airflow you describe is normal.  It's typically much stronger in the freezer section than in the fresh food section.

 

While I only know the basics of refrigeration theory, it sounds to me like the compressor is good and is trying to do its job.  On the flip side, if there's a refrigerant leak it could be anywhere in the system (I presume the high pressure side would be more suspect) and might be difficult to locate.
 
I May Be Able To Help You Out On Your Frigidaire Refrigerator I Have Tech Talk Boooks But I Would Need Your Model And I Could See What Might Be The Problem And I Might Even Have The Part You Need I Have Lots Of Frigidaire Parts From Our Family Business That They Retired They Sold And Repaired Frigidaire Appliances And I Have A Lot Of Parts Except Original Compressors I Might Be Able To Get A New Style Compressor That Would Work If Thats What You Need Any Questions You May Email Me @ [email protected] I Also Have Parts On This Website www.boocoo.com under mark merchandise Maintained By Vintage Appliance Parts.

You get the award for the longest run on sentence I have ever seen on this website.
Congratulations!
 
Was the refrigerator plugged and cold when you got it?

 

One possible source of refrigerant/oil leaks on the Meter-Miser compressors is the connections where the 3 electrical wires enter in the compressor. If you see oil traces there, it might be the place where the refrigerant leaked (if that's the problem).

 

The serviceman told you that "it was grounding out 12 volts"? I don't know what it means but maybe someone could explain it?

 

I wish you good luck and that you find someone to bring it back to life! If you don't, let me know before you scrap it, you might get a few bucks selling a few parts to me (and maybe to others!).
 
The meaning of being "grounded"

I believe it means that there is a partial break in the internal insulation inside the compressor case that is leaking some electricity to the outside of the case which "has grounding".  As my instructor told that is different than "grounded" when there actually is electricity leaking.  It may be possible that over the years some of the insulation material deteriorated.  But I heard that this is more of a problem in newer units with 134a than with R12.  More likely as I read somewhere, metal fatigue has set into the springs inside the case and when moved, even without much trauma, one of the springs broke.  The article said for this reason it was better to leave a refrigerator with the house if you want it to last longer.  The spring metal is more flexible when new, which is how the manufacturers could ship new refrigerators without damage.

 

I don't know if I can answer the question of who to replace the compressor.  I would like to hear what happens.  Seems to me it should be possible without contamination if they are EPA certified, flush the system with nitrogen and follow the right procedures.

 

I notice for its age, the inside seems to be in good condition so I would like you to keep it.  Seems they must have used thicker metal, plastic, etc.  It certainly is not like a Frigidaire today.  My sister bought a Kenmore about 6 months ago and already, some of the inside parts have come apart. 

 

One thing I would like to know:  Did GM build their own compressor or did they use a vendor like Techumseh?  Because if the latter, it should be easier to locate a modern compressor.
 
Bah! I say, bah! Replacing a compressor on a home frig can't be that much tuffer than on a small commerical cooler. I would call a commerical HVAC Co. to come look at it. It really is beautiful and in good shape. If compressor is running you might get lucky and just need a leak seal and recharge.
 
Bob,

 

GM had their own compressors. The one used in Mike's Frigidaire is a rotary type Meter-Miser 7/32 hp. I have heard that some people had theirs replaced with Tecumseh compressors but there's a lot involved in the replacement as there are just two mounting points for the Frigidaire compressor.

 

See this link for more details about Frigidaire rotary compressors.

 

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