Report yr November 2007 natural gas bills

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It is all in the cupboard...

My meters are all located in a cupboard in my bedroom. The water meter in the middle is a "recent" (2000) addition. Before that the water was unmetered. All water tubing had to be replaced for this as with the old installation my apartment had two water supplies and that had to be changed to just one. At the same time the lead pipes were replaced with copper pipes.

I mentioned earlier that the meters are read annually. In fact, because I am usually not at home when the meter man calls, one can read the meters yourself and communicate the readings to the energy company by mail, phone or internet. This can be done every other year so in practice my meters are read by the meter man only every two years. For those occasions I can make an appointment so that I can give him access to the meters. The water meter must always be read by yourself. Only in cases where you are unable to do so an employee will come to read it for you.

Our meters are replaced every ten years or so. Since 1981 my electric meter has been replaced once and my gas meter twice. The energy company performs periodical accuracy checks on the meters and when accuracy is unacceptable all meters from that batch will be replaced. My gas meter is less than a year old. It is much bigger than the previous one (that size is not manufactured anymore according to the technician), but it is silent. The previous meter made hissing and clicking sounds that were very audible when I was in bed during cold winter nights.

My energy use from 20060419 till 20070416:
electricity: 2492 kWh
gas: 1068 m3 (38000 ft3)

12-16-2007-13-20-59--mielabor.jpg
 
Meters

All meters in our area are radio frequency reads. Gas, electric and water. The truck does a drive by and captures the read electronically. No need to come to the door, even, or on the property. Thats National Grid, for you. The technolgy eliminated the payroll of the meter readers.
 
Wireless reading...

That is a wonderful solution. What is the maximum distance between meter and reading equipment?
 
Greetings Theo:

Interesting picture, thank you for posting it!

It is interesting to note that in my area flexible gas connectors are (were?)not allowed to connect the gas meter.

I am assuming the left side is the inlet. Anyhow, what is the yellow device on top of the meter to the left? Is it a sesmic (earthquake) cutoff or an ordinary pressure regulator? Thank you for your consideration and response!
 
oh, my house is older and the gas meter is indoors.

In newer homes and apartment buildngs the gas meters are outside. They are "tempertature compensated" as gases contract in the extreme cold, and expand in the heat.

The expansion and contracton would mean that the same volume of gas carries different levels of usable "heat content" as the seasons (temperatures) effectively change the concentration.

This is why we pay per Therm (heat content, which IIRC would be 100,000 BTU) rather than by cubic foot (volume).
 
Steve, I had also imagined that it would be advantageous to have the meter in the freezing cold. In the Netherlands the temperature differences are probably regarded as to small to be compensated for. What we do have is a compensation for the energy content of the gas per m3. This may vary with the composition as it is a mixture of gas from different sources.

The connections with gas meters are always flexible to facilitate meter changing. Not so long ago they were lead tubes, but now they have been replaced with these stainless steel ribbed tubes. Flexible stainless steel tubes of smaller diameter are used too for connecting heaters and cookers. For cookers rubber tubes are also frequently used, but these are not allowed for heaters.

The device on the meter inlet is a safety device. Most older cookers here have no mechanism that cuts off the gas supply when the flame goes out after a pressure drop. The device will interupt the gas supply for as long as there is a pressure difference between the incoming and outgoing side. This means that you must first close all the valves of your cooker and wait some time (ca. 15 minutes) to let the pressure increase (the device leaks a tiny bit of gas to make this happen) before the device will restore the gas supply. The Dutch name for this device is "gasgebrekklep" (I bet that's almost unpronounceable for non-Dutch speakers). I couldn't find an English translation for it.

http://www.wildkamp.com/search-engine/list.do?txg=1205
 
UGH!!!!!!!
Mine Just arrived.......
Nov 8 to Dec 11
161 CCF
$238.97

I don't even really keep the house that warm, 63 at night, 68 if someone is home, which isn't that much. Its a 2 zone system, and I only use the lower level zone if it dips below 57 down there.
Anyone else here in NJ have a bill to compare?
 
gasgebrekklep

Fascinating, I'm glad I asked.

I am not aware of such a device in USA homes.

However on our propane (bottled) gas outdoor grills, there is such a device that one must first turn opne main valve on the bottle first, then open the gas jets/vales/burners.

If there is no pressure downstream of the device it will not let the gas flow, again for safety.

Propane is heaver than the ambient air; methane (natural) gas is lighter, so extra care is needed with porpane which will flow like water and burn your feet and lower extremities (rather than your eyebrows) in case of a leak!
 
speaking of pressure regulators, here, there is normally one just before the gas meter.

It is vented to the outside to be able to sense the ambient barometric atmoshperic pressure.

My understanding is that this pressure regulator serves two funtions:

1- To greatly reduce the pressure found in the street mains.
2- To slightly adjust the allowable pressure in the home's gas piping. This is meant to reduce the flow via a pressure asjustment when the barometcic air pressure is low and raise it when it is higher. This aims to keep the flame size (via the pressure) the same despite the weather.

There was once an accident in Boston where such high pressure gas reached the meter that it blew out the pressure regulators and pilot lights became a yard/meter tall. Quite a few buildng burned down! Of course the flexible connectors are not meant for such pressure and popped as well!
 
old fashioned ways

I live in a house built in 1797 located in middle Georgia. I have a tankless gas hot water heater and heat the house with gas logs in the fireplaces (7). I only heat the room I am using at the time. November had 18 days that required me to turn the heat on. That cost me $33.00. December is going to be the eye opener as I have had the gas logs going most every day. The heat from one room is enough to heat a good portion of the house (3000sqft). I have been restoring the house and this is my first winter in it. The house is 90% original. The kitchen house was moved up and attached in 1910 when plumbing and eletric was added. I updated the both last year (yes it still had the 1910 pipes and wires). As long as I can keep utilities low I am sticking with the place as is. I don't need air conditioning because of how the house is constructed and situated. I have tall ceilings and the house breaths. When it got up 103 here last summer my interior never got above 74 inside. December, Jan. and Feb. are the cold months here. I employ many 19th century methods for everyday living and find life quiet comfortable.
 
oh yea....

I forgot to upload this picture of the house. This was taken this past year, I have made much more progress on the place and need to get some updated pics. I will be spending this winter looking for all the areas around doors and windows to block drafts. I am resisting modern methods (central heat/air) as long as I can live comfortably by simple methods.

12-17-2007-13-00-14--oldhouseman.jpg
 
That old house is fabulous. I like the simple technology as well. I heat my shower water with a kerosene lamp. It has the additional advantage that it heats up my bathroom as well (no central heating here too). But gas logs in fireplaces, aren't they very inefficient? I have always heard that most of the heat generated by a log fire goes straight up into the chimney.
 
warm and toasty...

We have "vented" logs and "non-vented" gas logs. The vented are not really for heating. I closed up the damper portion of the chimney and the heat stays in the house. My non-vented gas logs heat in one fireplace give enough heat on the low setting to warm one half of the downstairs. I bought some solar lights and charge them in the daytime and bring them in at night. Great source of "Free" light. I am a bit shy of kerosene lamps with two boxer dogs that tend to bump things over. I am lucky that we do not have long or very cold winters here. The flip side of that is humid and HOT summers. I am very grateful for the mild winters and low heating costs. I will see what next month brings now that the temperature has gone into the 20's and 30's.
 
Greg.

I am amazed you can keep your interior so cool in the summer without mechaincal A/C!

Based on what I have read, may I STRONGLY suggest you get a Carbon Monoxide detector for:

1- Every occupied bedroom
2- Every room where an unvented combustion device is running.
3- At least one on every level/floor/story.

As you may know CO detectors are most effective at floor level.

I'm thinking you may want to start a new thread as to how you keep it so cool in summer, both pasive home design and active methods!
Great house, love the pic!

http://www.carbonmonoxidekills.com/
 
next month and after.....

I am courious to know what other folks bills will be running for Dec. and Jan. I expect mine will hit close to 100.00 if we have a really cold Jan. That seems to be one of our coldest months. I am in the middle of the State. I know it is warmer in the southern part of the state and about 10 to 20 degrees colder in the mountain region of Georgia. I live in a small town that has it's own gas works (most towns here did going back into the 1840's).
 
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