Restoring my Maytag 124 Automatic Washer

[brianl]

In the beginning of this week, I became the proud owner of a 1961 Maytag Model 124 Washer. Apparently it was in use from that time of purchase up until last year when the owner past. Her son gave me the washer and dryer combo she had. It seems to cycle correctly, but unfortunately the valves do not close properly and let the hot and cold through. Even the mixing valve does not seem to seat properly as the same thing happened on the warm setting. All 3 solenoids work though. I tried doing what I thought was a thorough cleaning on the cold, hot, & mixing valves, but only managed to slow the cold flow down, although significantly. The cold solenoid was missing a spring, so I borrowed it from the hot for testing, but still am a spring short. Basically I would like to get replacement solenoids, springs, valves, etc. If someone is really good at refurbishing these, I would be open to that too. I would really like to get it working properly and eventually get to the cosmetic part of restoration. Unfortunately no pics taken yet.

Thanks!!

 

[Unimatic1140]

Order Gemline GVW-1000 water valve repair kit from you appliance part store. You will need two of them since your valve has three solenoids. Page 35 in their catalog...

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...yRKjwSNATLlt0DKLQ&sig2=W9yc6BtOgvRmHh29Pd8Thw

 

[brianl]

Thank you for the info!!

You wouldn't know by any chance what the part GEM part number is as I might just want to replace those as well for good measure since they have rust on 2 of them?

 

[Unimatic1140]

GVW-1000 is the part number of the kit you need which has the plungers, springs, seats and stems all in the kit. As I said you will need two kits for a 3 solenoid valve.

 

[brianl]

, I missed putting the word "solenoid" in there. Those are what could stand to use a replacement too.

Thanks!

 

[bobbyderegis]

There you go Brian. Ask and you shall receive. Any comments on why Maytag thermostatic mixing valves crap out fairly often? The warm setting of 100 degrees usually fails, leaving only cold water to come out. Any remedy for this?
Bobby in Boston

 

[qsd-dan]

Rebuild, or.....

buy a completely new one

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320352857074&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

 

[brianl]

Thanks for the find!!

Just curious how you can see that is for mine. I cannot tell too good from the pic and obviously it is different from the original one I have. I trust your judgment though!

Hey Unimatic1140,

I was able to order the valve repair kit from Gemline today along with some other parts I needed. Thanks for your help as well!

Brian

 

[swestoyz]

Strange - IIRC the 124 came with a standard two solenoid valve. Are there three seperate wires to power all three solenoids? Maybe you have a 142.... chance we could get a photo of the machine?

Irregardless - you certainly can rebuild the valves.

Ben

 

[brianl]

You're right!

That was my fault, it is a Maytag Model 142, not 124. For some reason, I keep wanting to switch the numbers around. There are 3 separate wires all with a common. For the hot, it is orange & yellow. For the cold, it is white & yellow. For warm, it is blue & yellow. It seems odd that the cold has white & the warm blue. I did test it though, and the white and yellow engage the solenoid if I do cold, and the blue & yellow engage only when I do the warm setting. All 3 solenoids work although they are getting a bit noisy. I am not sure if that is due to the calcium buildup on them, but nonetheless, they do all work and have a magnetic pull.

Does anyone have a parts book or anything on it, as I only have the User's manual that originally came with the machine and a basic generic service manual. While helpful I would like to know part numbers and perhaps some type of detailed service manual so I don't screw anything up. E-mail version would be fine or if someone has a hard copy, I would pay for the shipping. I will try to take and post some pics this evening before I leave for my trip to Boston tonight. I also have the "matching" dryer; model DE606.

Thanks,
Brian

 

[brianl]

Front Of Washer

 

[brianl]

Inside Washer Basket

 

[brianl]

Inside Washer Basket 2

 

[brianl]

Timer Dial

 

[brianl]

Right Side Of Panel

 

[brianl]

Left Side Of Panel

 

[brianl]

Behind The Front Panel. Notice the valve assembly in the back on the ground. Forgot to take closeup pic of it.

 

[brianl]

Behind The Front Panel Also

 

[brianl]

One Of The Solenoids & Valves

 

[brianl]

My GE Filter-Flo Closed

 

[brianl]

My GE Filter-Flo Open

 

[combo52]

Water valve for MT 142

Dan the picture your link shows a three soinoid non thermostatic WP valve. Larry @ modern pts in ohio still has new valves for this machine Its not worth rebuilding except as a last resort the thermostatic part never works correctly in these old valves.

 

[qsd-dan]

Glass

Is this a late model 142 or has the glass been replaced at some time? The 142 should have the older striped pattern instead of the snowflake.

 

[brianl]

As far as I know, it's all original. It was purchased in 1961 according to the date they wrote on the front of the manual when they purchased it. I assume some work mechanically was done though as I noticed a solenoid was missing a spring.

 

[qsd-dan]

It was purchased in 1961

Well, that explains it! I didn't realize Maytag carried this model into the 60's. Guess I should have checked the model/year chart Ben put up a while ago that I archived. 1957-1961. So, to answer my own question, yes, it's a later model 142.

 

[mistereric]

Gorgeous machine, Brian! Reminds me I should be working on my A702S. Where in NJ are you?

http://www.ericdietrich.com/photos/index.php?album=things/Maytag+A702S

 

[brianl]

Not too far away!!

I am located in Hasbrouck Heights, NJ 07604 near Hackensack, Paramus, etc... I see your not too far away. I could definitely use some assistance if your around sometime. I have so many rust spots I want to clear up, but I'm afraid to take anything apart too far and wind up screwing up the machine.

 

[revvinkevin]

It looks just like my A700...........

Hi Brian, so that is a 142? It looks just like my A700! Does it have the knob on the top right if the control panel for "Automatic" or "Cold" rinse? If not I guess that is the difference between the two.

What are the last two digits of the serial number? It should be two letters.

Thanks!
Kevin

 

[swestoyz]

Hey Brian -

For the 15 - 20 dollars that you'd spend on the rebuild kits, I'd personally go ahead and try out the old valve first. I've had pretty good luck getting the thermostatic Dole (plastic body) valves up and going again.

Nice machine! Keep an eye out on ebay for the repair/service manual. It is a black cover and usually is full of the early Helical repair information.

Let us know how the valve job works out!

Ben

 

[brianl]

It works!!

I tried the valve repair kit and no leaks! All 3 solenoids works perfectly. 2 of them though have rust in the inner cavity where the brass "pole" sits. Nonetheless they do their job and give the washer water and stop when they need to.

I will have to check on that serial number as I totally forgot to grab it last night. I do not have the automatic or cold rinse knob on mine, just the front controls.

On another note, it seems the diaphragm in the fill control valve will not engage to shut off the water unless I do it manually with another air hose I had to create my own air pressure. I think the opening to put the hose on got damaged from closing a clamp on too tight, but I am not sure. The original one that was on there broke. I cannot locate the problem for sure yet, as even when I do it my way, the air eventually leaks out and the washer starts fill again. Maybe I did not have the hose on tight enough for my testing. Is it possible to have a leaking diaphragm?

I need to get my hands on some good but cheap black rubber hose. I tried using clear vinyl and I am still getting leaks around my connections from tub to pump, and pump to drain.

Lastly, It seems the jet that shoots the water into the fill flume sprays water on top of the cabinet and water runs down the wall of the washer. When it is shooting cold water during the first rinse, water sprays out the front of the washer. Wondering if it is years of calcium buildup on the nozzle causing a bad stream of water?