brianl
Well-known member
My GE Filter-Flo Closed
Restoring my Maytag 124 Automatic Washer
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brianl
Well-known member
My GE Filter-Flo Open
Water valve for MT 142
Dan the picture your link shows a three soinoid non thermostatic WP valve. Larry @ modern pts in ohio still has new valves for this machine Its not worth rebuilding except as a last resort the thermostatic part never works correctly in these old valves.
Dan the picture your link shows a three soinoid non thermostatic WP valve. Larry @ modern pts in ohio still has new valves for this machine Its not worth rebuilding except as a last resort the thermostatic part never works correctly in these old valves.
brianl
Well-known member
As far as I know, it's all original. It was purchased in 1961 according to the date they wrote on the front of the manual when they purchased it. I assume some work mechanically was done though as I noticed a solenoid was missing a spring.
It was purchased in 1961
Well, that explains it! I didn't realize Maytag carried this model into the 60's. Guess I should have checked the model/year chart Ben put up a while ago that I archived. 1957-1961. So, to answer my own question, yes, it's a later model 142.
Well, that explains it! I didn't realize Maytag carried this model into the 60's. Guess I should have checked the model/year chart Ben put up a while ago that I archived. 1957-1961. So, to answer my own question, yes, it's a later model 142.
Gorgeous machine, Brian! Reminds me I should be working on my A702S. Where in NJ are you?
brianl
Well-known member
Not too far away!!
I am located in Hasbrouck Heights, NJ 07604 near Hackensack, Paramus, etc... I see your not too far away. I could definitely use some assistance if your around sometime. I have so many rust spots I want to clear up, but I'm afraid to take anything apart too far and wind up screwing up the machine.
I am located in Hasbrouck Heights, NJ 07604 near Hackensack, Paramus, etc... I see your not too far away. I could definitely use some assistance if your around sometime. I have so many rust spots I want to clear up, but I'm afraid to take anything apart too far and wind up screwing up the machine.
It looks just like my A700...........
Hi Brian, so that is a 142? It looks just like my A700! Does it have the knob on the top right if the control panel for "Automatic" or "Cold" rinse? If not I guess that is the difference between the two.
What are the last two digits of the serial number? It should be two letters.
Thanks!
Kevin
Hi Brian, so that is a 142? It looks just like my A700! Does it have the knob on the top right if the control panel for "Automatic" or "Cold" rinse? If not I guess that is the difference between the two.
What are the last two digits of the serial number? It should be two letters.
Thanks!
Kevin
Hey Brian -
For the 15 - 20 dollars that you'd spend on the rebuild kits, I'd personally go ahead and try out the old valve first. I've had pretty good luck getting the thermostatic Dole (plastic body) valves up and going again.
Nice machine! Keep an eye out on ebay for the repair/service manual. It is a black cover and usually is full of the early Helical repair information.
Let us know how the valve job works out!
Ben
For the 15 - 20 dollars that you'd spend on the rebuild kits, I'd personally go ahead and try out the old valve first. I've had pretty good luck getting the thermostatic Dole (plastic body) valves up and going again.
Nice machine! Keep an eye out on ebay for the repair/service manual. It is a black cover and usually is full of the early Helical repair information.
Let us know how the valve job works out!
Ben
brianl
Well-known member
It works!!
I tried the valve repair kit and no leaks! All 3 solenoids works perfectly. 2 of them though have rust in the inner cavity where the brass "pole" sits. Nonetheless they do their job and give the washer water and stop when they need to.
I will have to check on that serial number as I totally forgot to grab it last night. I do not have the automatic or cold rinse knob on mine, just the front controls.
On another note, it seems the diaphragm in the fill control valve will not engage to shut off the water unless I do it manually with another air hose I had to create my own air pressure. I think the opening to put the hose on got damaged from closing a clamp on too tight, but I am not sure. The original one that was on there broke. I cannot locate the problem for sure yet, as even when I do it my way, the air eventually leaks out and the washer starts fill again. Maybe I did not have the hose on tight enough for my testing. Is it possible to have a leaking diaphragm?
I need to get my hands on some good but cheap black rubber hose. I tried using clear vinyl and I am still getting leaks around my connections from tub to pump, and pump to drain.
Lastly, It seems the jet that shoots the water into the fill flume sprays water on top of the cabinet and water runs down the wall of the washer. When it is shooting cold water during the first rinse, water sprays out the front of the washer. Wondering if it is years of calcium buildup on the nozzle causing a bad stream of water?
I tried the valve repair kit and no leaks! All 3 solenoids works perfectly. 2 of them though have rust in the inner cavity where the brass "pole" sits. Nonetheless they do their job and give the washer water and stop when they need to.
I will have to check on that serial number as I totally forgot to grab it last night. I do not have the automatic or cold rinse knob on mine, just the front controls.
On another note, it seems the diaphragm in the fill control valve will not engage to shut off the water unless I do it manually with another air hose I had to create my own air pressure. I think the opening to put the hose on got damaged from closing a clamp on too tight, but I am not sure. The original one that was on there broke. I cannot locate the problem for sure yet, as even when I do it my way, the air eventually leaks out and the washer starts fill again. Maybe I did not have the hose on tight enough for my testing. Is it possible to have a leaking diaphragm?
I need to get my hands on some good but cheap black rubber hose. I tried using clear vinyl and I am still getting leaks around my connections from tub to pump, and pump to drain.
Lastly, It seems the jet that shoots the water into the fill flume sprays water on top of the cabinet and water runs down the wall of the washer. When it is shooting cold water during the first rinse, water sprays out the front of the washer. Wondering if it is years of calcium buildup on the nozzle causing a bad stream of water?
strongenough78
Well-known member
Is jealous.......
You guys are so lucky! I keep praying that someday I"ll have my vintage Maytag lol. Oh and by the way, MisterEric, you're cute!!
You guys are so lucky! I keep praying that someday I"ll have my vintage Maytag lol. Oh and by the way, MisterEric, you're cute!!
bobbyderegis
Well-known member
Brian:
I have a service manual for the 142 but I won't be able to get it for a few weeks as it's in NY! The tub and agitator on yours looks great- little use. Mine has the older lined glass with the black buttons and dial. Yours has the newer styling, like the A700. Sweet little machine!
Bobby in Boston
I have a service manual for the 142 but I won't be able to get it for a few weeks as it's in NY! The tub and agitator on yours looks great- little use. Mine has the older lined glass with the black buttons and dial. Yours has the newer styling, like the A700. Sweet little machine!
Bobby in Boston
brianl
Well-known member
Valve Assembly ?
By any chance, is this the same valve assembly that is on my Maytag? Please take a look at pictures 43 & 44 of this Lady Kenmore Restoration. Would this increase my chances of finding an assembly?
Thanks,
Brian
By any chance, is this the same valve assembly that is on my Maytag? Please take a look at pictures 43 & 44 of this Lady Kenmore Restoration. Would this increase my chances of finding an assembly?
Thanks,
Brian
brianl
Well-known member
Hmmm... Service Manual In NY
Hey you know Bobby I am only in NJ; I should go make a trip to NY. Just kidding, and I really appreciate you doing that for me. Just let me know when you plan on being in the area if you would like to meet up. Is it a copy to borrow, have, or make copies of? Any of the 3 work, just curious.
And again, thank you all for your help. I can only wish to have the knowledge all you people posses and maybe one day I can be of some help to someone else.
Brian
Hey you know Bobby I am only in NJ; I should go make a trip to NY. Just kidding, and I really appreciate you doing that for me. Just let me know when you plan on being in the area if you would like to meet up. Is it a copy to borrow, have, or make copies of? Any of the 3 work, just curious.
And again, thank you all for your help. I can only wish to have the knowledge all you people posses and maybe one day I can be of some help to someone else.
Brian
bobbyderegis
Well-known member
Brian;
You are welcome any time I'm back home. You can check out the 142, the 606, and the 608 pair. I should be back sometime in December. I'll grab the manual to copy for you. The mixing valve in the Kenmore looks similar in construction, but not quite identical.
Bobby in Boston
You are welcome any time I'm back home. You can check out the 142, the 606, and the 608 pair. I should be back sometime in December. I'll grab the manual to copy for you. The mixing valve in the Kenmore looks similar in construction, but not quite identical.
Bobby in Boston
brianl
Well-known member
I finally got the serial number.
The serial number on my Maytag 142 is 203135RS.
When you hear a squeaking that occurs during the wash cycle, but goes away with the spin cycle, is that due to the belts getting wet or is it they need replacement? The squeaking had subsided after a couple of days of use, and I did have leaking water around the time it started, but I still wanted to double-check to be sure.
Brian
The serial number on my Maytag 142 is 203135RS.
When you hear a squeaking that occurs during the wash cycle, but goes away with the spin cycle, is that due to the belts getting wet or is it they need replacement? The squeaking had subsided after a couple of days of use, and I did have leaking water around the time it started, but I still wanted to double-check to be sure.
Brian
The serial number on my Maytag 142 is 203135RS.
If I'm reading it correctly (pre 66 models are a little tricky to decode), it was born November, 1960.
"When you hear a squeaking that occurs during the wash cycle, but goes away with the spin cycle"
There are several factors that would cause this, however, the pulley bearing is something I would look into after belts, and a spring and glide replacement (which all are probably in dire need of anyway).
If I'm reading it correctly (pre 66 models are a little tricky to decode), it was born November, 1960.
"When you hear a squeaking that occurs during the wash cycle, but goes away with the spin cycle"
There are several factors that would cause this, however, the pulley bearing is something I would look into after belts, and a spring and glide replacement (which all are probably in dire need of anyway).
brianl
Well-known member
May I ask how to date Maytag Washers? I did find one website online, but my dating using that website showed Sept. 1963. On the front of the user manual, the previous owners wrote that the set was purchased in 1961. So something is obviously wrong. If you could tell me the proper way of dating them, that would be great.
Thanks,
Brian
www.electrical-forensics.com
Thanks,
Brian
Maytag Date Codes
Maytag Appliances and Date Codes: How to to determine when your Maytag Appliance was manufactured from its serial number.
May I ask how to date Maytag Washers?
I had a feeling this would get involved.
Maytag used 2 different month letter coding systems on pre 66 automatics. This would mean the machine was born Dec 1959, or Nov 1960. Since you have the modern glass panels, my guess is Nov 1960.
Here's the link for decoding. It's in Post# 216866.
I had a feeling this would get involved.
Maytag used 2 different month letter coding systems on pre 66 automatics. This would mean the machine was born Dec 1959, or Nov 1960. Since you have the modern glass panels, my guess is Nov 1960.
Here's the link for decoding. It's in Post# 216866.
