Speechless!
Yeah, Imagine all that!......lol
Yeah, Imagine all that!......lol
Review of Speed Queen AWN412
- Thread starter mercman
- Start date
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I get the feeling that the front loaders don't have the hot water restricted like the top loaders, because when I select a hot wash, the glass gets quite hot to the touch, which is pretty close to tap hot. Especially if I temper the machine first.
It makes sense to me that the hot water would be restricted on a top loader, because the amount of water which a top loader would need to use to fill would pretty much empty out most modern water heaters.
It was also probably there to keep the water from getting "Too" hot.
Personally, I do agree that "Hot" should mean tap hot, not 'sorta kinda' hot.
Now I'm kind of wondering if they use the same fill valves on their FL machines as their TL machines...
It makes sense to me that the hot water would be restricted on a top loader, because the amount of water which a top loader would need to use to fill would pretty much empty out most modern water heaters.
It was also probably there to keep the water from getting "Too" hot.
Personally, I do agree that "Hot" should mean tap hot, not 'sorta kinda' hot.
Now I'm kind of wondering if they use the same fill valves on their FL machines as their TL machines...
mrb627
Well-known member
Water Restricter
The hot water fill is 100% hot in both the TL and FL machines. But when Warm is selected, the hot is about 1/3 the flow of the cold. So the Warm wash isn't a 50/50 mixture.
Malcolm
The hot water fill is 100% hot in both the TL and FL machines. But when Warm is selected, the hot is about 1/3 the flow of the cold. So the Warm wash isn't a 50/50 mixture.
Malcolm
Malcolms right....its not 50/50 for a warm setting, even the AUTO temps are dubbed down, and harder to adjust.........
I operated a newer Whirlpool TL a few weeks ago, and selected HOT, it gave a 60 second fill with HOT, and then jumped the rest of the way to LUKEWARM, I even reset the timer, no go, it had to continue with LUKEWARM......only resourse was to reach under the sink and turn the COLD off until it finished filling....its getting crazy with the newer machines......
I'll stick with my vintage machines, but if I had to own a new one, I think I would forget the fill valve and do it manually....
as we learned, even SQ has a dubbed down version.......pretty soon machines are only gonna be allowed a single cold water hook-up, with no internal heater.....
that, or their gonna remove the water heaters from our homes.......
which brings me to a question....why not improve the source?....if the water heater uses so much energy, why hasn't someone come up with a better one, better design, granted their more efficient today, but apparently not enough!.....why isn't the government forcing these guys to produce a super efficient model......take the energy level one uses today, and for starters, make it do the same job with 25 to 50 percent less energy!
I operated a newer Whirlpool TL a few weeks ago, and selected HOT, it gave a 60 second fill with HOT, and then jumped the rest of the way to LUKEWARM, I even reset the timer, no go, it had to continue with LUKEWARM......only resourse was to reach under the sink and turn the COLD off until it finished filling....its getting crazy with the newer machines......
I'll stick with my vintage machines, but if I had to own a new one, I think I would forget the fill valve and do it manually....
as we learned, even SQ has a dubbed down version.......pretty soon machines are only gonna be allowed a single cold water hook-up, with no internal heater.....
that, or their gonna remove the water heaters from our homes.......
which brings me to a question....why not improve the source?....if the water heater uses so much energy, why hasn't someone come up with a better one, better design, granted their more efficient today, but apparently not enough!.....why isn't the government forcing these guys to produce a super efficient model......take the energy level one uses today, and for starters, make it do the same job with 25 to 50 percent less energy!
Water Heater Efficenty
Martin its coming, but it is true that regular Gas water heaters are not nearly as efficient as they could be and regular electric water heaters should be taxed out of existence. I installed a new Rheem heat-pump water heater at my partners house over a year ago and it works GREAT. The WH only draws 6 AMPS at 240= 1446 watts vs the old one drawing 4500 watts and from what I can tell doesn't even run nearly as long or often as the old electric model did. And as an added benefit we stopped using the dehumidifier in the basement as the HPWH removes one or two gallons of water per week. Interestingly in the winter when the air is dryer it hasn't removed a drop of water since last October, I was concerned that it might make the air dryer in the house in the winter.
Martin its coming, but it is true that regular Gas water heaters are not nearly as efficient as they could be and regular electric water heaters should be taxed out of existence. I installed a new Rheem heat-pump water heater at my partners house over a year ago and it works GREAT. The WH only draws 6 AMPS at 240= 1446 watts vs the old one drawing 4500 watts and from what I can tell doesn't even run nearly as long or often as the old electric model did. And as an added benefit we stopped using the dehumidifier in the basement as the HPWH removes one or two gallons of water per week. Interestingly in the winter when the air is dryer it hasn't removed a drop of water since last October, I was concerned that it might make the air dryer in the house in the winter.
NO, NO, NO....your getting the best possible mix.......opening up both the same, its as close as possible.......
the before of your machine was not allowing a full 50/50 mix......that what was confusing some people, yeah, if you selected HOT, you got tap HOT water, same for COLD, but if you asked for WARM, it was more like 70/30, or luke warm if even that.....some people weren't even checking as to the actual temp once the machine was filled......like Malcolms machine, once locked, he can't be sure he's getting a true warm wash, or even hot for that matter.....
something just to keep in mind.......WARM is determined for you now based on incomming water temps.....if the COLD is icy cold, and your water heater is set at 120, you may be only getting a luke warm wash, and this can also change by the Season, and the area you live......thats why mine is set at 160, I can always turn the faucet down, and adjust to my liking.....
check your wash temp, warm if I am correct should be around 90 to 100F....
the before of your machine was not allowing a full 50/50 mix......that what was confusing some people, yeah, if you selected HOT, you got tap HOT water, same for COLD, but if you asked for WARM, it was more like 70/30, or luke warm if even that.....some people weren't even checking as to the actual temp once the machine was filled......like Malcolms machine, once locked, he can't be sure he's getting a true warm wash, or even hot for that matter.....
something just to keep in mind.......WARM is determined for you now based on incomming water temps.....if the COLD is icy cold, and your water heater is set at 120, you may be only getting a luke warm wash, and this can also change by the Season, and the area you live......thats why mine is set at 160, I can always turn the faucet down, and adjust to my liking.....
check your wash temp, warm if I am correct should be around 90 to 100F....
Ahhhhh, I see
We did a wash today using the warm setting with both hot and cold faucets wide open. The temperature to me seemed to feel like a warm pool water like around 80 degrees. I have a well and the water is cold, my hot water heater is set to 120 degrees. I also think the cold tanks drop the temp a bit. How about making the hot water inlet hole larger than the cold?
We did a wash today using the warm setting with both hot and cold faucets wide open. The temperature to me seemed to feel like a warm pool water like around 80 degrees. I have a well and the water is cold, my hot water heater is set to 120 degrees. I also think the cold tanks drop the temp a bit. How about making the hot water inlet hole larger than the cold?
You're right Yogi about the temperature of what the water is coming in, it should be what each faucet has. I have an oil fired boiler with tankless hot water coil and I think the valve that regulates the temp from boiling to hot has gone out and I have to have it replaced. I notice now the Maytag does not fill with Hot when set and when the machine fills up the furnace burner finally kicks on. Same thing happened in the shower today, went cold and I always had more than enough hot water but now I have to wait for it to heat. Not a project I am going to tackle.
xraytech
Well-known member
In order to compensate for the coolness of the warm water mix in my Speed Queen I just fill the tub 1/3 with hot water then switch to warm the remainder of the fill, We get very hot water in the washer, as there is only about 3 feet of pipes from water heater to washer, and I have the temp set on 140 degrees
What really pisses me off is the requirement of only being able to rinse in cold water, I prefer warm rinses
What really pisses me off is the requirement of only being able to rinse in cold water, I prefer warm rinses
you could drill the hole a little larger, but to just fine tune it at this point, I would try first by adjusting the cold faucet a little....because your temps are gonna change thru out the year.....I a getting too much HOT right now, because of the water heater set temp, so I have to cut back the HOT valve
Sam, you could have two choices, intall a "Y" and set the Temps manually, or just reset the machine to WASH, once filled with warm, turn dial around to rinse and let it finish, either way, its gonna take some monitoring.....
a few of my machines have a WARM rinse option, but usually only if I select a HOT wash......the Neptunes are the only ones that have the WARM/WARM option...
Sam, you could have two choices, intall a "Y" and set the Temps manually, or just reset the machine to WASH, once filled with warm, turn dial around to rinse and let it finish, either way, its gonna take some monitoring.....
a few of my machines have a WARM rinse option, but usually only if I select a HOT wash......the Neptunes are the only ones that have the WARM/WARM option...
Water Temp
Just took the water temp it was 81 degrees, "not bad". I find this to be acceptable for a mild warm all purpose wash conditions. We can live without the warm rinse I guess. At least the Federal Government wants me to live without the option for the rinse cycle. "Whats next"
Just took the water temp it was 81 degrees, "not bad". I find this to be acceptable for a mild warm all purpose wash conditions. We can live without the warm rinse I guess. At least the Federal Government wants me to live without the option for the rinse cycle. "Whats next"
You know, as scary as it may seem, that may be the next course, Wash and Spin, thats it.....but at that point, I could live with it, a bit of a pain, but consider it a Semi-Automatic......set the machine to Wash and Spin, and then reset to Rinse and Spin all over......
WE always find a way around it.....and will!.....lol
WE always find a way around it.....and will!.....lol
mikeske
Member
1st time post for me. My wife and I just got a AWN412, My wife loves her new Speed Queen. We had a Samsung made Maytag Neptune, the last edition before Maytag was sold to Whirlpool, we had bought the extended 5 year warranty for the Maytag and ended up using it a lot.
There is no comparsion on the Maytag to Speed Queen, The Speed Queen wins hands down in our home, My wife likes the fact that the Speed Queen has all the settings that she wants and uses most frequently, there is also no lid lock, computer and the the fact that she decides how the wash is to be done instead of some computer deciding for her.
The difference in how cloths are washed in the Speed Queen makes it the best machine for us. Our cloths are already coming out a lot softer and feel better with the SQ. The Maytag the cloths came out stiff and rough.
The only issue my wife has withe the new washer is she wanted a 2nd rinse option but we did not go the next level up in SQ for 2nd rinse and once she washed 2 loads in the machine she said the 2nd rinse is not needed as the cloths came out soap free.
We did keep the matching Maytag dryer as it has never had a issue in all the time we have had it except the silly controls on the near side, reach for something in the cabinet above it and if the machine is off we just turned it on. ONe thing is sure if I have one issue with the dryer I will replace it also with a new Speed Queen dryer.
There is no comparsion on the Maytag to Speed Queen, The Speed Queen wins hands down in our home, My wife likes the fact that the Speed Queen has all the settings that she wants and uses most frequently, there is also no lid lock, computer and the the fact that she decides how the wash is to be done instead of some computer deciding for her.
The difference in how cloths are washed in the Speed Queen makes it the best machine for us. Our cloths are already coming out a lot softer and feel better with the SQ. The Maytag the cloths came out stiff and rough.
The only issue my wife has withe the new washer is she wanted a 2nd rinse option but we did not go the next level up in SQ for 2nd rinse and once she washed 2 loads in the machine she said the 2nd rinse is not needed as the cloths came out soap free.
We did keep the matching Maytag dryer as it has never had a issue in all the time we have had it except the silly controls on the near side, reach for something in the cabinet above it and if the machine is off we just turned it on. ONe thing is sure if I have one issue with the dryer I will replace it also with a new Speed Queen dryer.
mikeske
Member
My wife decided to really test her Speed Queen, She loaded 5 pair of my work pants (insulated jeans) 5 insulated jean shirts and 2 pair of regular blue jeans and 7 pocket tie shirts. They all came out clean. My wife was really happy has the old Maytag would never handle this load as everything would get wet and not clean and she would end up having to break up the load into 2 loads.
The SQ has really saved her a hour and half on just this load. Every load on the Maytag would take about a hour and 20 minutes and the load on the SQ was just under 40 minutes.
I did talk to my wife if she wanted a new dryer and she stated as long as the Maytag works and gets the cloths dry she is fine. She just could not see replacing the dryer as it works fine and nobody but her and I go into the laundry room, she simply can not see not getting the most out of the old dryer. She does not care if they do not match.
The SQ has really saved her a hour and half on just this load. Every load on the Maytag would take about a hour and 20 minutes and the load on the SQ was just under 40 minutes.
I did talk to my wife if she wanted a new dryer and she stated as long as the Maytag works and gets the cloths dry she is fine. She just could not see replacing the dryer as it works fine and nobody but her and I go into the laundry room, she simply can not see not getting the most out of the old dryer. She does not care if they do not match.
nmassman44
Well-known member
Mikeske, it sounds like you had the same Maytag set I had. The washer bearings went on mine plus it was recalled for a fire hazard. Your wife may want to rethink her stance on the dryer since it will give up the ghost a year from now...mine did just that. The SQ dryer will dry much faster than the Samsung Maytag and it's better built.
mikeske
Member
My wife is a Filipina and she has this thing that she will use something up and get every penny of use out of something before she will replace it. Our old Maytag/Samsung washer she was purely POed by the machine and kept using it until the 4th control panel in it finally fried itself, the problem was the washer would go through its cycle and when it got to one minute it would jump back to 8 minutes and then do a continuous loop between 1 minute to 8 minute until you shut it off. The prior replaced control panels all were replaced under the extended warranty all did the same thing, along with the rear bearing, 2 door boots and alot of service calls. Once the warranty expired I agreed to replace the entire machine.
The dryer we have has absolutely no problems and has been the most trouble free dryer we have ever had and that includes our prior Maytag dryer that lasted 26 years but I had to numeroous repairs on it through the years. The biggest was the blower that was made out of plastic and it would strip at the flange that attached to the motor.
Since this Maytag/Samsung dryer is doing a good job she will keep using it until it has the fatal event, I do suspect it will be the rear bearing as it does make a a high pitch noise I can hear but my wife has not heard yet. I have talked to her and I have let her know the instant the dryer breaks that I will not put a red cent into and I will replace it with a new Speed Queen dryer. she has agreed but the Maytag has to break first.
The dryer we have has absolutely no problems and has been the most trouble free dryer we have ever had and that includes our prior Maytag dryer that lasted 26 years but I had to numeroous repairs on it through the years. The biggest was the blower that was made out of plastic and it would strip at the flange that attached to the motor.
Since this Maytag/Samsung dryer is doing a good job she will keep using it until it has the fatal event, I do suspect it will be the rear bearing as it does make a a high pitch noise I can hear but my wife has not heard yet. I have talked to her and I have let her know the instant the dryer breaks that I will not put a red cent into and I will replace it with a new Speed Queen dryer. she has agreed but the Maytag has to break first.
nmassman44
Well-known member
Well my Maytag Samsung dryer motor went out exactly a year after we got rid of the washer. My washer did that same thing adding time in a loop and balancing issues OMG I wanted to kill it. Then the bearings were going and I would get te dreaded T1 code.
The dryer in my opinion wasn't efficient and would only check the load twice for dryness. At least mine did that. I have been reading about the drum seams letting go too...but if she wants to run t in the ground then do it, but when it dies it goes out in a very big way.
The dryer in my opinion wasn't efficient and would only check the load twice for dryness. At least mine did that. I have been reading about the drum seams letting go too...but if she wants to run t in the ground then do it, but when it dies it goes out in a very big way.
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