Rewiring stove top elements on a 1954 GE Stratoliner

[michmom]

I have a 1954 GE Stratoliner. Other than limited response on the coils for "some" of the temp settings, it works pretty well. When trying to see if there were bad connections causing the intermittent temps,I took a look at the wiring -- all I can say is pretty scary. I've been doing some research and am considering replacing some of the old cloth covered wires, etc. From my research I know I need to use TGGT High Temp Wire, I'm thinking I can just replace one at a time.

Has anyone done this? I have exhausted the appliance repairmen in my area and no one is willing to work on it.

I have also found another stove for parts, as I had a few pieces missing, and my bake unit stopped working. I see that the bake element has housings around it, my oven did not. I'll probably test the burners by switching them out first.

I'd be really interested it talking to someone who might have this stove.

 

[rp2813]

As long as the wires are fastened to the connectors with screws or some type of quick connect/disconnect arrangement, this shouldn't be a complicated process.  It would only be scary if you didn't unplug the stove first . . .

 

Refastening wires to burner blocks was an occasional job on my mom's '49 Westinghouse, particularly on the only 8" burner the stove had.  There was very little slack left on that wire by 2008 when I shipped the stove to a former AW member.

 

Bake and broil elements can be made to order if needed, and they're not expensive.  You just have to go through an independent appliance parts retailer so they can match it up.  My mom's stove was on its third bake element when I shipped it off (she was an avid baker).  It sounds like the element from your parts stove could be the original type and may use coiled nichrome for its heat source instead of a modern infrared tubing.  If so, I think it should pop right in, and if it works, use it!

 

[delco1946]

Hi there, Please provide pics and more detail.

1. Wires don't usually go bad, so unless you have a reason to replace i would leave it alone. There is nothing wrong with cloth covered wiring unless mice ate through the fabric etc. Depending on where the wires are, the risk of disturbing possible asbestos insulation is not worth replacing wire just cuz it looks grungy. I did clean the connections as best as possible to ensure solid connections (without soaking the coils or using anything too caustic).

2. If you have 4 wires going to each burner, or if you can visually see two separate rings then you have two circuits going to each burner. I have this on my Gibson and would explain why your burner is working only on certain settings - one of the two elements burned out. Replace it (not the wiring or the knob). Modern stoves (and some antique) generally have one coil with one circuit.

3. Nichrome is an interesting beast - used vintage wire gets rather fragile. mine crumbled when i tried to reuse it. I bought nichrome wire and wound my own element - works wonderfully although it was tedious. Not worth explaining my process unless this is in your future - sounds like you arent dealing with it (?).

Good luck - Christopher

 

[michmom]

Replacement Bake Element now out, need advice

The scavenged bake element just went out so I'm looking for suggestions. My element has 3 prongs and a search gives me an alternative that doesn't have the ceramic housing and has only 2 "attachment points". I've ordered the new element but don't know how to wire it up. There's a vintage appliance website that says they have directions but they didn't have the element I needed, so I think it can be done.
Unfortunately I haven't been able to get a hold of them. I'm happy to pay for the instructions.

RP2813 upgraded member (Sannazay) above mentioned that I should be able to get one made to order - does anyone have know a company who does this? I contacted the Old Appliance Shop and they no longer rebuild elements. I would love to get it rebuilt and use the ceramic housings as was originally designed.

I did find an element on line with 3 prongs but the part number doesn't come up as compatible, but its 3000 watts and 240 V which is either the same or a little higher than my Stratoliner. Photos attached.

Any information would be appreciated.

 

[114jwh]

Hi Beth

I think the link below should help answer your questions. As far as I know, the main difference between the Liberator and the Stratoliner was the former had double ovens while the latter had a single oven and a warming drawer (?). I think there may have been a few other minor feature differences but believe they were basically built from the same platform. As such I would expect they would likely use a similar size (if not the same) replacement main oven bake element

You are better off using a direct wire element vs the older plug in type I believe. Over time, the contacts in the ceramic block start to wear out and don't make good contact anymore which causes problems.

Good luck and let us know how you make out.

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