*RIP* Sunbeam C50 "CoffeeMaster" Coffee Maker

[launderess]

Well after over ten years of daily or more service, my Sunbeam C50 automatic vacuum coffee maker has developed a problem, and one fears it is terminal.

Noticed last week steam coming from around the base of the unit, and also that the "vaccum" portion of the coffee making cycle was not only taking longer than it should, but after completed it seemed as if air was being sucked down still. Final nail on the head was after cleaning the pot out one day, noticed one could hear a small amount of water inside the base.

Laying the pot to dry on it's side allows this water to drip out (eventually), but water and electric do not mix, especially cooking appliances. Can only assume there is some sort of leak around the inside the pot at the base allowing water to slowly seep down.

Perhaps back in the day Sunbeam would offer a fix for this problem, but as it most certianly would involve taking off the bottom part of the coffeemaker, and then either soldering or applying some sort of epoxy, that isn't going to happen today.

Was a great pot, and made wonderful *hot* coffee, but all good things come to an end. *Sigh*

Got this unit NIB back when vac pots weren't nearly so popular, indeed one couldn't give them away for love nor money. Today Sunbeams fetch dear money, especially the "C" series and more so the "C50". If another NIB or nearly new unit comes up, may nab it, but for now am waiting for a vintage Sunbeam drip automatic coffeemaker to arrive. It makes 1-4 cups which is enough.

Oddly have a large stash of glass Silex vaccum coffee makers and equipment. But after breaking several glass pots and uppers, have decided handling such things, especially with all the palaver that goes with making vac coffee, first thing in the morning is not a good idea for MOI!

 

[volvoguy87]

Gasket?

Can the base be disassembled? Is there some sort of a gasket in the base that has dried out?

Don't give up hope just yet,
Dave

 

[tomturbomatic]

Sorry about your C50

The base can be disassembled, but what has probably happened is that the lower bowl has developed corrosion in the hole through which the center bolt passes. The bolt attaches the bowl to the heater/thermostat assembly in the base. The chrome plating inside the C50 series was more of a thin, satin finish while the plating in the earlier models was heavier with a smooth surface. Many C50s had to be taken out of service because the chrome plating failed allowing the copper underneath to come into contact with the coffee and ruining the flavor. The corrosion around the bolt in your lower bowl is also a result of the poorer quality of plating.

Actually, the quality on the C30 series was better and many of them are still operating fine. The C30 models are the ones I would expect to give the longest service.

 

[laundromat]

Launderess

Up the road a piece theres a store that has a Vacudrip.I know the owner and she owes me a favor.I told her I was interested in the Sunbeam product but,it had no price tag on it.Anyway,let me know if you'd be interested.I'll pack it up and send it out.I will get the model number first to be sure you'll want it.

 

[bobbyderegis]

Launderess:
Can you post a pic of your dead model? I'd be glad to keep watch for one at flea markets for you. I see the old chrome vac pots often enough.
Bobby in Boston

 

[whirlcool]

Laundress:

You just missed a NIB C30 on Ebay, but the price was VERY dear!
Since we bought a new seal on our C-30, it works like new! That guy on Ebay who is selling the replacement seals does a good job with them. So you may be able to find a nice one with a hardened seal and just replace the seal.

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[gansky1]

D'oh! I knew I should not have tossed a couple of these "parts" units out a few weeks ago. Just as soon as the truck turns the corner, someone needs one. Keep your parts handy and I'll watch for a base at the sales, I see them quite often. There are still many of them around.

Allen, it's very reassuring to hear that the new silicone seals are working for you. Terry and I were examining the one I bought a while back and were a bit skeptical. We haven't tried it yet as the seal on mine is still good but I grabbed one for a spare. The maker/seller seemed very nice, he even emailed me a week or so after shipment to make sure it arrived and how it worked. I really need to work up the courage to take the old seal off of the glass top I have and replace that seal, it would be so cool to see that working. I tried to get Terry to do it but he fled!

 

[gfm8959]

Interested in owning one after reading this thread...

I LOVE coffee but never owned this type of pot. I see a C30A on Ebay for 44.99. Do you think this is a good deal? Does this type of pot use filters of any kind?

Thanks,
Jerry

 

[launderess]

Thanks Guys!

Saw the Sunbeam C30 on eBay, and while tempted it is always a gamble with those machines as most sellers do not have a clue as to what "NIB" should mean for the gasket. Have seen too many fingers burned by persons who paid dear money for one of those units, only to have it arrive with a gasket that was two steps from falling apart. This was before the bright blub started selling replacement gaskets, otherwise one was really out of luck.

Personally think the C50's gave a better seal than the C30's, and made hotter coffee. Also the seals on the former are much less prone to rot or what not.

Will see if one can scrounge up a picture of the C50, and thanks again one and all for offers to keep a look out for replacement base. Sunbeam C50's are tricky models, and unless the unit is NIB or only slightly used, bases tend to have varying layers of burnt coffee "gunk" inside the pot. This is due to how the C50's brew.

While such units make great HOT coffee, because of the extreme heat the first streams of fluid down tend to hit hot and dry metal, which literally causes it to evaporate upon contact. Worse if persons used the "keep warm" feature, and left coffee in the pot, as water evporated the remaining coffee leaves a residue that "bakes" on. This coating can build up to the point that no amount of "Dip-It", scrubbing or cleaning will totally remove.

Mehinks the reputation for producing "burnt" coffee is the reason many persons used Sunbeam C50's a few times then put them away, often for good. *LOL*

 

[whirlcool]

We did have a bit of a problem with the first replacement seal we bought from the seller on Ebay.

The first seal he sent was soft and gushy feeling. It had a somewhat rough texture to it. It lasted about three weeks before it started to distort. I sent an e-mail to the seller suggesting that he add a hardner to his mix to make it more rigid. He very politely sent me a new one pronto, no charge at all not even shipping! The new one looks and feels exactly like the originals did when they were new. No smell, flavor or taste from them. The seller said the new gasket material will never harden or deteriorate. The new gasket works perfectly.

The only thing I found is that you have to have the ridge of the metal part of the gasket firmly in place with the line in the new gasket for it to work.

It was very easy to get the old metal part out of the old gasket. I just ran it though the dishwasher on Sanitary and when the cycle was complete, I just used two thumbs to push out the metal piece in the center of the gasket. It just popped right out!

 

[aeoliandave]

Hello all.
My name is Dave. I'm thrilled to know Petek over in Sarnia well, call him a fine friend and this is my first post to the Forum although I've been lurking and reading on the fringes for over a year. Joined the Forum a few weeks back but got snagged in the whole Server Glitch thing. I didn't think my Introduction and first post would be about Coffee Percolators but so be it...
My principal passion is for vacuum cleaners (and Vacuumland.org) with over 200 at last count, and the smalls - kitchen appliances. This discussion of the Sunbeam CoffeeMaster got me thinking how I should chime in on how I got my C-30's hardened donut seal back in service last week.
Fortunately, the two pot halves were not joined together when I found it but the hardened donut made it impossible to put them together for either display or use (having finished erecting two shelf towers in the kitchen to store and display for rotating use hundreds of toasters, blenders, percolators, waffle & grilled cheese irons, hand & stand mixers and so on). So, in usual determined Davy Sprocket fashion I put on the thinking cap...mounted the donut on a polishing wheel arbor and lathed the lip down until it popped into place snugly. Works great.

For the full story please visit the Vacuumland link, which begins about regulating your Sunbeam Radiant Toaster and morphs into what that last week became about. .

Meantime, I would really like the link to this ebay fellow who is making new silicone seals, if someone would be so kind to post it?

Dave

http://www.vacuumland.org/TD/THREADS/SANDBOX/7887.htm?42

 

[launderess]

She's Gone!

Well yesterday morning my trusty morning friend gave up the ghost. It tis possible the lower unit might still heat, but wouldn't trust it or bother.

Brewing coffee that morning resulted in loud gushes of steam from the base, failure to initiate pull down (vacuum), and finally one had to wrap a cold dish towel around the base to start extraction.

Inside of the pot along the bottom and around the center post area is now blackened and looks corroded. Certianly not something one would wish to brew coffee in, so she will be laid to rest. Will keep the upper part and filter gasket as spares for the next time one lads a C50.

Thankfully have a bunch of Silex vac pots and spares lying about. Got them cheap years ago on eBay, when one couldn't give away vintage vacuum coffee things for love nor money. They are Pyrex glass, and will have to go on the stove (don't trust those 80 year old vintage electric stoves that came with the sets), but have to have my java in the AM, and the Sunbeam drip coffee maker does not brew above 185F.