Rusty 1-18, pt 2

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fltcoils

Member
Joined
May 5, 2016
Messages
5
Location
South Bend, Indiana
This week I worked on the clutch I removed from the 1-18 discussed in Thread Number: 35161

As you may recall it wouldn't spin up to speed, although the mechanicals seemed to be working alright.

My disassembly of the clutch found a waxy black grease on the cams and a slick glazing on the clutch shoes. Someone had definitely oiled this 1-18 in error.

I bought some pads from Larry at Modern Parts House, but before using them I decided to fiddle with the wet shoes.
 
So simple a child can do it...

As I discussed in thread Number: 35506, a 1-18 clutch is not that complicated.

My daughter enjoyed assembling it a few times. I just had to help hold the spring retainer end in place when it got to that part.

I stretched the 3 brake anti-rattle springs to .36" (they'd compressed to .28".

To clean the parts I used acetone in a bean can with a snap on lid to prevent evaporative loss between soakings.

fltcoils++7-24-2011-19-40-3.jpg
 
Clean the glazed greasy shoes....

To clean the shoes I used:

acetone soak and rub
brass bristle brush scrubbing
mini butane torch heating

1) soak shoe in bean can with 1" of acetone for a few minutes.
2) remove shoe, lay flat on work surface. brush across glaze portion, rotate shoe 30deg, brush again until done all around
3) rinse with acetone and wipe off gunk
4) move acetone can and rags far away
5) light mini torch (Item #41169, harbor freight) and heat shoe surface
6) carefully increase heat on surface in one spot until hydrocarbon flames up, then move on to next area
7) repeat until glaze disappears after step 5 and oil doesn't flame up anymore.

When I reassembled the washer today the cluch worked quite well. When just a bit of water was left in the tub it spun up to full speed in what seemed to be less than 30 seconds
 
Almost ready to wash clothes, now that it spins.

I hoped to next test the water inlet valve

However, it now dribbles out the safety drip pan. So either a tub seal or a bellows is failing, I hope just the bellows.
(just realized that a "oil" bellows, even broken would serve some good here. The btm of the bellows would still dam against a broken water bellows.)

But I'm getting there, right?
Just need:
bellows
working water valve
lower cabinate rust fix (pop rivet strip on btm edbge)
cabinate drain hose exit fitting
recirculaton filter

What am I forgetting? My good sense?
 
Change bellows

Next step is to remove the bellows. I'll be using your bellows pliers for this I expect.

Looking today I found both the water and the oil on the web and have some coming.

Surprising that oil bellows do turn up for reasonable $
 
Pt 3, Remove Bellows

I removed the bellows today and found both the oil and water bellows intact without leaks.

This leaves the following.
1st run, using hot water, machine agitated and spun without leaks.
2nd run, using outdoor hose water, ran without leaks
3rd run, leaked out of trough spout.

Bellows ok.

So...are there ways to recondition the tub seal? Is this just a matter of lubing the thing, or patching with weatherstrip sealant --- or is it a gonner?

What is the correct tub seal PN for these?
 
Leaks with old tub seal

I ended up getting a 5309956914 Tub Seal Kit,
(THREAD 12242, reply #46,
http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Bearing/5309956914/643032)
pic below

-----
Today I checked for leaks with good bellows and clean parts, I reassembled with the old tub seal, but with a cleaner assembly around the bellows and a new oring around the agitateshaft/agitatornut.

It still leaked/dribbled, but only during agitation.

So I'll be using that slug wrench and replacing this tub seal.

good news is the inlet water valves seem to work.

(I know I should get a pw cord, that 1" pigtail is mighty short to keep shoving into a extension cord)

fltcoils++8-5-2011-00-15-30.jpg
 

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