Sanitize Temperature ?
- Thread starter washer-br
- Start date
Help Support :
laundromat
Well-known member
sanitize
160 to 180 deg. F
160 to 180 deg. F
Designgeek
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 12, 2004
- Messages
- 865
Same as for laundry if I'm not mistaken, right?
It would be interesting to have a chart that shows the trade-off relationship between temperatures and bleach. Someone here pointed out that you have to use more bleach at lower water temps, and can use less at higher temps. And then also, similar for oxygen bleaches as well as chlorine bleaches.
Also comes the question of impact on fabrics from "boiling" at those temps, vs. from using bleach. Ideal case here being to pick a combination of temp and bleach levels, which sanitizes effectively while producing minimal wear on fabrics.
It would be interesting to have a chart that shows the trade-off relationship between temperatures and bleach. Someone here pointed out that you have to use more bleach at lower water temps, and can use less at higher temps. And then also, similar for oxygen bleaches as well as chlorine bleaches.
Also comes the question of impact on fabrics from "boiling" at those temps, vs. from using bleach. Ideal case here being to pick a combination of temp and bleach levels, which sanitizes effectively while producing minimal wear on fabrics.
Sanitize
If the dishwasher is NSF rated then it reaches the appropriate temperature and amount of time. I thought it was 160 degrees for 5 minutes.
As far as temp vs. bleach...I have been washing my whites at 160 degrees with oxygen bleach for almost three years. As a matter of fact, my washer manual states using chlorine bleach will void the warranty of my machine. It doesn't even have a bleach dispenser. Just soap (two of them) and Fabric Softener. Believe it or not my whites are sparkling white and show very little wear. If I was still using chlorine bleach in my whites, I am sure I would have replaced them one or more times by now. The other funny thing is they don't shrink and you would think they would as they are 100% cotton.
High temp and no chlorine bleach gets my vote.
If the dishwasher is NSF rated then it reaches the appropriate temperature and amount of time. I thought it was 160 degrees for 5 minutes.
As far as temp vs. bleach...I have been washing my whites at 160 degrees with oxygen bleach for almost three years. As a matter of fact, my washer manual states using chlorine bleach will void the warranty of my machine. It doesn't even have a bleach dispenser. Just soap (two of them) and Fabric Softener. Believe it or not my whites are sparkling white and show very little wear. If I was still using chlorine bleach in my whites, I am sure I would have replaced them one or more times by now. The other funny thing is they don't shrink and you would think they would as they are 100% cotton.
High temp and no chlorine bleach gets my vote.
kenmore1978
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2004
- Messages
- 2,119
Bleach and temperature
Nothign is best for al conditions. The hotter the temperature, the better oxygen bleach works. But, hot temperatures can set some stains (egg, blood, milk, chocolate, other protein-based stains. The high temp literally "cooks" the stain in) In those case, low temps with chlorine bleach (if the clohtes are white) works better. Often with really greasly, oily things, I use ammonia and oxygen bleach, and then (if it's white items), re-wash them in hot water and chlorine bleach. And I've been known to put oyxgen and chlorine bleach in the same load.
Nothign is best for al conditions. The hotter the temperature, the better oxygen bleach works. But, hot temperatures can set some stains (egg, blood, milk, chocolate, other protein-based stains. The high temp literally "cooks" the stain in) In those case, low temps with chlorine bleach (if the clohtes are white) works better. Often with really greasly, oily things, I use ammonia and oxygen bleach, and then (if it's white items), re-wash them in hot water and chlorine bleach. And I've been known to put oyxgen and chlorine bleach in the same load.
That reminds me. I forgot to mention that I always set my washer to start with cold water, and gradually heat it to the desired temp. As I understand it, this is the best way to insure all stains are properly removed. From what I've read some stains (protein generally) are better removed with cold water.
This approach takes a little longer but the results are worth it. We Americans are used to doing our laundry in one day, I've adjusted by doing a load every day or so. My washer has a timer on it so I can set what time I want the load finished. I set it to finish about the time I walk in the door. I don't notice the 1 1/2 hour wash time because I'm not here!
This approach takes a little longer but the results are worth it. We Americans are used to doing our laundry in one day, I've adjusted by doing a load every day or so. My washer has a timer on it so I can set what time I want the load finished. I set it to finish about the time I walk in the door. I don't notice the 1 1/2 hour wash time because I'm not here!
laundromat
Well-known member
sanitize temperature
I thought this MT was about dishwashers not clothes washers??
I thought this MT was about dishwashers not clothes washers??
Oxygen Bleach and Chlorine Bleach in Same Wash Load
Is not a good idea as oxygen bleach and chlorine bleach cancel each other out.
IIRC Cheer uses a low dose version of oxygen type bleach to "cancel" the effects of chlorine found in tap water to assist in "protecting" colours from fading.
Would also NOT advise rewashing with chlorine bleach, any item that was previously laundered with ammonia unless VERY throughly rinsed between washings. Chlorine bleach and ammonia mixed produce a very toxic substance.
As for "sanitising" laundry. Most modern laundry detergents, combined with mechanical action of the washer do a pretty good job of removing/killing germs. True many germs are simply removed and flushed down the drain, but they still are not on your clothing. Sudden changed from hot water to cold also helps kill/remove germs.
In all but the most extreme cases, this should be enough. If one is laundering diapers, hankies, or items from the sick room, then chlorine bleach (if safe), or another laundry disenfectant is a better bet for sanitising laundry.
IIRC the standard is/was 160F-168F for at least 20 minutes to "sanitize". Problem is not many of today's modern fabrics can withstand that sort of treatment even once. Some modern detergents for both commercial and home use contain additives that will sanitise laundry at temps of 120F with a contact time of 20 minutes.
It is important to remember short of using chlorine bleach or similar EPA approved disenfectant one would have to "boil wash" to kill many bugs found in laundry, such as yeasts and molds which can withstand temps over 170F or higher.
Launderess
Is not a good idea as oxygen bleach and chlorine bleach cancel each other out.
IIRC Cheer uses a low dose version of oxygen type bleach to "cancel" the effects of chlorine found in tap water to assist in "protecting" colours from fading.
Would also NOT advise rewashing with chlorine bleach, any item that was previously laundered with ammonia unless VERY throughly rinsed between washings. Chlorine bleach and ammonia mixed produce a very toxic substance.
As for "sanitising" laundry. Most modern laundry detergents, combined with mechanical action of the washer do a pretty good job of removing/killing germs. True many germs are simply removed and flushed down the drain, but they still are not on your clothing. Sudden changed from hot water to cold also helps kill/remove germs.
In all but the most extreme cases, this should be enough. If one is laundering diapers, hankies, or items from the sick room, then chlorine bleach (if safe), or another laundry disenfectant is a better bet for sanitising laundry.
IIRC the standard is/was 160F-168F for at least 20 minutes to "sanitize". Problem is not many of today's modern fabrics can withstand that sort of treatment even once. Some modern detergents for both commercial and home use contain additives that will sanitise laundry at temps of 120F with a contact time of 20 minutes.
It is important to remember short of using chlorine bleach or similar EPA approved disenfectant one would have to "boil wash" to kill many bugs found in laundry, such as yeasts and molds which can withstand temps over 170F or higher.
Launderess
From what I recalled about visiting a hospital sterilizer room-160 degrees isn't really hot enough to destroy ALL bacteria and virus-You need to expose the items to steam for 30 min or a lethal gas(for items that can't withstand that sort of heat)to ethylene oxide gas for 30min.I wouldn't consider items exposed to 160 degrees "sterilized" people with normal immune systems shouldn't have a problems with dishes or clothes-just the phsycological implications that the clothes or dishes have been "sterilized"And yes there are now strains of bacteria and viruses that can withstand BOILING water temps-they live in volcanic hot springs water--if you jumped into it you would be instantly scalded.
Sanitize vs Sterile
OK, a bit of Med/Sug nursing 101 here:
Sanitise is the reduction of "germs" to levels where they will be least likely to cause illness.
Sterile is to render a surface totally free of micro-organisms likely to cause illness.
In a hospital setting there are sterile and merely sanitizsed areas. In the OR, for instance you have what is called a "sterile field", which means everything within that area is supposed to be sterile. Outside of that area is only sanitised. In the sterile field linens,instruments,gowns,and so on would have been autoclaved orotherwise rendered sterile before use. The linens nurses make up the bed in your room with have only been "sanitised" that is laundered in such a way pathogen levels have been reduced.
It is impossible to render anything "sterile" that is not handled the same way. For instance even if one could remove 100% of all pathogens in laundry, unless one transferred that same laundry to a dryer using "sterile" techniques, it would likely be reinfected with whatever is on the surfaces the laundry comes into contact with.
For instance, most people load dirty laundry in such a way it touches the outside or parts of the washing machine that are not likely to come in contact with washing solution. Thus taking laundry out and allowing it to drag across those surfaces would "infect" them once again.
Commercial laundries that deal with "infected" laundry may have dual door washers. Onen side is "dirty" and the other "clean". Soiled laundry is loaded on one side of the unit, and clean laundry removed from the other. In this way clean laundry does not ever come in contact soiled. Many of these laundries will extend this to having a "soiled" and "clean" side of the laundry room physically separated from each other. This further insures minimal transfer of pathogens from soiled laundry and surfaces it has come in contact with, to clean laundry.
Yes, temp alone unless subected to pressure like an autoclave or oven is not always enough kill all pathogens. This is why sterlisation takes place after an item has been throughly cleaned. In fact to properly disenfect any surface/item gross filth and soil should be cleaned away before application of chemicals. Even chlorine bleach is more effective as a laundry sanitiser if used in the presence of low levels of pathogens. This one of the reasons why commercial laundries have a separate cycle for bleaching, which follows the main wash cycle. The main wash cycle will remove most of the soils and germs, leaving bleach to take care of the rest. This also allows for use of much lower levels of bleach, as the bleach does not have to overcome large amounts of pathogens/soils.
Launderess
OK, a bit of Med/Sug nursing 101 here:
Sanitise is the reduction of "germs" to levels where they will be least likely to cause illness.
Sterile is to render a surface totally free of micro-organisms likely to cause illness.
In a hospital setting there are sterile and merely sanitizsed areas. In the OR, for instance you have what is called a "sterile field", which means everything within that area is supposed to be sterile. Outside of that area is only sanitised. In the sterile field linens,instruments,gowns,and so on would have been autoclaved orotherwise rendered sterile before use. The linens nurses make up the bed in your room with have only been "sanitised" that is laundered in such a way pathogen levels have been reduced.
It is impossible to render anything "sterile" that is not handled the same way. For instance even if one could remove 100% of all pathogens in laundry, unless one transferred that same laundry to a dryer using "sterile" techniques, it would likely be reinfected with whatever is on the surfaces the laundry comes into contact with.
For instance, most people load dirty laundry in such a way it touches the outside or parts of the washing machine that are not likely to come in contact with washing solution. Thus taking laundry out and allowing it to drag across those surfaces would "infect" them once again.
Commercial laundries that deal with "infected" laundry may have dual door washers. Onen side is "dirty" and the other "clean". Soiled laundry is loaded on one side of the unit, and clean laundry removed from the other. In this way clean laundry does not ever come in contact soiled. Many of these laundries will extend this to having a "soiled" and "clean" side of the laundry room physically separated from each other. This further insures minimal transfer of pathogens from soiled laundry and surfaces it has come in contact with, to clean laundry.
Yes, temp alone unless subected to pressure like an autoclave or oven is not always enough kill all pathogens. This is why sterlisation takes place after an item has been throughly cleaned. In fact to properly disenfect any surface/item gross filth and soil should be cleaned away before application of chemicals. Even chlorine bleach is more effective as a laundry sanitiser if used in the presence of low levels of pathogens. This one of the reasons why commercial laundries have a separate cycle for bleaching, which follows the main wash cycle. The main wash cycle will remove most of the soils and germs, leaving bleach to take care of the rest. This also allows for use of much lower levels of bleach, as the bleach does not have to overcome large amounts of pathogens/soils.
Launderess
