Seeking Adhesive/Plastic Patch Advice

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rp2813

rp2813

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Due to former user's error in replacing the appliance size bulb in my '52 Kelvinator refrigerator with a standard size and I assume leaving the door open for an extended period, the plastic diffuser/drain tray underneath the freezer got a big hole melted into it.

 

I got this fridge back in October and the time is nigh for a defrosting operation.  This tray has a hole in the corner to drain away thawed condensate into a small bin, but I need to patch the melted area in order for defrosting to be as painless as possible.  As you can see in the picture, it will take a putty knife and a thick spreadable substance to accomplish this, unless there's another method that hasn't occurred to me. 

 

Can anyone advise on the best way to approach this?  How it will look isn't an issue.

 

TIA.

 

Ralph

rp2813-2020050416551605393_1.jpg
 
Ralph,

Any idea what the plastic is made of?

Acryic, polycarbonate, other? That could make a difference vis-a-vis what cement/solvent to use.

If the piece is out of the fridge, you could take it to a shop like TAP Plastics for them to determine the best patch product. Offhand I'd say you might be able to get away with cementing on a patch - like a tire patch - to contain the drip.
 
I'd second SudsMaster's reply. If you can figure out the type of plastic, then you might find a suitable solvent to permanently repair the crack as well as make a clear patch for the melted area.

In the mean time, you might want to drill a hole at the end of the crack, to reduce the stress concentration and prevent it from spreading...
 
Also, if you can't take the whole part into TAP Plastics, try taking a piece of it there, and they can determine what solvent/cement would work best. Alternatively, buy one each of the various plastic solvents/cements they have and test them yourself at home.

PS-I spent the past three years working as a machinist/programmer at a plastic shop (not TAP). Most of what I machined was nylon or polycarbonate. Others were involved with gluing, cementing, or heat welding plastic parts into assemblies. Also, Harbor Freight sells plastic welding kits that might also work for this part - if you can get the part out of the fridge.

Take your pick:

https://www.harborfreight.com/80-watt-iron-plastic-welding-kit-60662.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/plast...r-motor-and-temperature-adjustment-96712.html

 
I agree with Wiskybill is reply #2, I’d try the Clear Flex Seal tape first.  It will be the easiest remedy, and probably work just fine.  This will also help the support the rest of this piece, which is likely also very fragile and brittle due to its age.

 

Eddie
 
Thanks for the suggestions.  They are all good ideas.

 

I have no idea what type of plastic this tray was made with.  Whatever was popular in 1952, I guess.  I think the easiest, fastest attempt would be to use Flex Tape.  It's just a slow trickle of water that's directed via a tilt in the tray to the corner drain hole, so it's not like the seal would be under any pressure.  If that doesn't do the trick, I'll look into a mixable adhesive/sealant.  TAP Plastics is walking distance from me.

 

The tray is easily removed.  It slides out from under the freezing compartment -- as long as one hasn't allowed the frost to accumulate on the bottom of the freezer so much that it prevents the tray's removal, which is what I'm trying to avoid.  I think that less than twice a year is doing pretty good for a single-door refrigerator's (other than a single door GE Combination) defrosting intervals.  The process shouldn't be too annoying, provided that the condensate drainage system is working properly.

 

I'll either revive this thread or post a new one with results after I've made the repair and done the defrosting operation.
 
If they can make a boat out of it.....

 

<span style="font-family: georgia, palatino;">Ralph,</span>

 

<span style="font-family: georgia, palatino;">Have you seen the flex seal commercials?  You could make a boat out of it.  I'm sure it will fix your trickle.</span>

 

<span style="font-family: georgia, palatino;">Ralph (me) ducks and runs!!  Sorry I couldn't resist.  Those commercials are obnoxious but the stuff is supposed to work pretty well.</span>
 
IF the Flex-Tape can withstand freezing temps, it might work. I have no idea, but it may not hold in freezing temps.

The welding is probably the strongest fix.

I have the cheapest plastic welding kit from HF. I don't, however, recall ever having used it. I keep it just in case.
 
Well Rich, I pulled up Flex Tape on the ACE site since I'm picking up Chemex coffee filters at my local store on Thursday.  The description verbiage indicates it will work on "some plastics" so now I'm not so sure about it.

 

The temperature range is good:  -70F to +200F, but that's moot if it won't stick.

 

The site had a grand total of one review, which was negative.  The reviewer had tried to use it on a rubber hose for a washing machine and complained that it wouldn't even stick.  I noticed in reading the description that rubber was conspicuously absent from types of substances/surfaces Flex Tape will adhere to. 

 

I wonder if the advisory about plastics is directed at modern types that have a sort of non-stick, water beading surface.  I mean, if plain old Scotch tape will stick, why wouldn't Flex Tape?
 
I'm just asking anyone who knows here..

How would 3D printing look and work for a part like this? Could other parts (like Westinghouse laundromat boots) be made through 3d Printing?
 

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