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sudsmaster

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 23, 2004
Messages
15,034
Location
SF Bay Area, California
I know several of you must be avid seamsters or seamstresses, so I thought it would be appropriate to share my recent sewing experience.

I learned how to do very basic sewing on my mom's old portable electric Singer. It was a simple machine - simple straight stiches with a reverse lever. That was about it. But it worked, and worked well enough. It disappeared at some point. I don't know if she sold it to buy food or simply decided she couldn't carry it along with four kids on a coast-to-coast Greyhound bus migration.

In any case, since then I've acquired similarly simple Singer sewing machines. One, a vintage treadle machine in a nice mahogany veneer cabinet, which more or less worked but is probably in dire need of mechanical adjusting/rebuilding. After playing with that for a while (and loaning it to my mom), I "upgraded" to an electric unit which fits in the same cabinet. That was a gear-driven model, made in Japan, apparently from a time when Singer outsourced some of its models to a Japanese manufacturer. It also works and seems strong, but also in need of mechanical attention (I think). Somewhere along the line I got another more traditional Singer electric unit, and that is what is now in the cabinet. I also acquired a recently manufactured Chinese clone of the old portable my mom used to have. I gave her one as a present but she somewhat perversely rejected it so I returned it to the store. Of course a month later she changed her mind, lol. But that's another story.

Anyway, recently I acquired a *new* Brother computerized sewing machine. It's quite fancy, with over a hundred stitches and also a character font. I was dubious about it at first, since it's a featherweight machine. But I finally got around to setting it up and did the first job: a repair of hems on a few bath towels that were unraveling. I used a zig-zag stich for the first time in my life and was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was, as long as I followed the instructions.

The ease of use of such a modern machine kind of floors me. It does little things that make sewing much easier - from automatic bobbin setting to automatic needle threading, to automatically leaving the needle in the fabric when the sewing motion stops. I'll probably never investigate all the myriad stitches - many of them decorative and more appropriate for homey stuff you hand on the wall or girls' dresses. But I think it will be a valuable machine for mending, alterations, and perhaps also for turning some store-bought window curtains I bought years ago into something I can actually take out of storage, modify, and hang on the windows.

Oh, and it should also be good for sewing patches on things. When I get the walking foot attachment I might even try some mohair car upholstery for the classic cars...

For those who are interested, it's a Brother XR-9000, and here's a photo:

sudsmaster++4-3-2010-17-29-44.jpg
 
Sewing Machines

I use sewing machines quite often. I operate a small custom western wear business, and it requires the use of several different machines.

I have three different machines right now. One for straight stitch, one for zig zag, and one for embroidery.

I use a Singer 66 from 1950 for straight stitch (and buttonholes) and I use a 1960's DeLuxe 929 for zig zag work. This saves wear and tear on just one machine. I chose old all-metal machines because there are no cheap plastic parts to break. I don't know how many modern machines I went through before I decided on the old ones.

The third machine is a modern one though. For embroidery, I use a Brother Innovis 4000. It's fully computerized and fully automatic. I use it only for embroidery. Nothing else. It saves me from having to embroider it all by hand. It came with software so I can upload my own designs and stitch them out. A very good machine. It has the completely automatic threader. Just push a button and away it goes. I can fine tune tensions and things as embroidery threads can break and get tangled up if you don't adjust it right.

I feel the Brother Innovis will last me a good while as long as I keep it serviced regularly and don't man-handle it.

An important thing for any sewing machine is to get it serviced regularly. At least once a year to be oiled and have the timing set. This is especially important on embroidery and zig zag machines.

Here's my machines. The room is messy, sorry!

~Tim

bugsyjones++4-3-2010-18-24-10.jpg
 
Messy?

Doesn't look messy to me, Tim.

Looks much more like a workshop where things are actually made.

My Grandmother on my Dad's side always said: "Expect a few bodies or so around a battlefield."

I am thinking about a used Singer, or a mechanical Husqvarna, but not until around August.

Mostly for repairs, taking up pants (I have a 28 inch inseam), and the easier home decoration projects, like pillows.

Lawrence/Maytagbear
 
Yes, I have my doubts about the all plastic Brother, but I think for my current needs it will do. I've seen the embroidery version but I can't justify that expense. And I'd want the capability to create my own designs and load them into the machine - which many of them can't do (not sure about the Innovis).

For the car upholstery I tend to doubt the XR9000 will be able to handle much thick fabric. I am thinking about getting an industrial strength machine. I have an old industrial Singer (belt drive) that I picked up off Craigslist some years ago, but I haven't yet gotten around to restoring the table/motor setup, which is falling apart. It was used in SF to sew leather, so I know it's strong enough. But alas no walking foot.
 
i have about 15 or 20 sewing machines-many of them dump grabs,
mostly 1950s or later-people seem to throw them away in perfect
working order just because they are old and heavy.One of the
more interesting ones i have is one marked"made in occupied
japan"and has a mitsubishi emblem-the motor and light are u.s.
also have u.s.,italian,french,and canadian made singers,two
phaffs,several '50s-60s japanese,and the one i use is a polish
made j.c.penney from around 1978-with metal gears and a cog
belt from the motor it is noisy but the motor is powerful.
 
Brother Innovis 4000

You certainly can make your own designs with this machine. It came with some software that converts your designs to stitch.

I use the software for every design. I never use the 'built in' designs. I draw it up in adobe photoshop, then upload it to the software. I find that the simpler you can make a design, the better because if you are too detailed, then the software sometimes doesn't pick up everything and it distorts the image.

~Tim
 
Mighty Husqvarna

Very much an avid sewer and embroiderer here as well. Still keeping my Viking #1+ running here. Does a 4x4 embroidery field. I use software called Embird for my digitizing.

I used to sell Viking part time. For those looking at older Vikings, though strong machines, they can have their quirks, like sticking in reverse and plastic parts breaking. Viking made strong, but reasonably priced machines, usually with names, like the Madison.

Viking bought the Singer name, but really not keeping up the quality. It's a shame, but like a lot of old names, they just aren't the same as the old machines. Brother makes a very solid machine and I think you get good value for the price.

I used to do car upholstery and started out with an old metal gear driven Singer. I progressed up to a Consew commercial with a walking foot. Commercial machines too can be tricky. We got one from my grandmother. Thought my father, who was an upholsterer, could use it. Though a big machine, it was set up for lingere sewing and couldn't handle thicker fabric.

Anybody running a serger here? For frayed towels that you want to keep. Put what is called extra wooly nylon in the lower looper, using a narrow three thread overlock. It will do a beautiful finished edge and it lasts. I did this with some towels a couple of years ago and they are still holding up well.

ironrite++4-3-2010-20-20-36.jpg
 
Interesting.

What I may wish to do is to gather up some of my old Singers - like the gear driven Japanese one, and the industrial belt drive - and take it to a local sewing center and have it evaluated and fixed (if it's not too dear). I'm a machinist so I can make some parts for these things myself - and I can easily see how many of the parts were machined and not stamped or cast. They were made back when labor was cheaper and machining all those components was economically viable. Not so today - it's much cheaper just to cast the parts in metal or plastic, or stamp them out of sheet metal. Ah well, the good old days ;-).

Meanwhile I'll enjoy being able to do all those fancy stiches now and then...
 
My family still has my late mother's

pink Morris sewing machine that she purchased from a door to door salesman back in 1959. She made all of our clothes and was quite an efficient sewer, even through she had no former training. Unfortunately, I don't have a picture to post as my brother has the machine. I have a Sears free-arm that I used to hem paints, but that about it when it comes to sewing. Would love to learn to sew.
John
 
nice

Hey, Sudsmaster. I know EXACTLY what you mean! I have two Brother machines.... one vintage straight stitch only, the other a computerized plastic one. I LOVE them both. Just like all old things, I love the simple beauty, reliability, and quality of the old machine. However, the new one is so feature rich, that I simply adore it, and usually chose it over the antique (I also reach for my Dyson vacuum more than my Hoover Convertible, but that's another thread :O) The new one is the PC 420 and it is FABULOUS. It has a ONE TOUCH, ONE FINGER automatic needle thread (a whole different animal than the regular needle threader found on most machines), stop/start button, throttle speed control, needle up down (I leave it up to remove piecing easily), knee operated presser foot lifter, and my FAVORITE feature is the automatic push button thread slicer... that was worth the 500 dollar price tag alone. I recently completed my first quilting class and I used both machines... I used the modern one more, but I brought the vintage one to one class just to kind of show it off. I sure missed the features on the features of the modern one when I was using the antique... the antique has a much more pleasant feel and sound when sewing, but I found myself stabbing the bare metal trying to hit the non-existent thread slice button more than once... reaching for scissors is so barbaric! LOL I am glad I am able to appreciate both modern and vintage machines, and even though sewing snobs will only recommend Pfaff or Bernina or Viking Huskvarna, I completely recommend Brother... kind of like the Panasonic of vacuums.... great price for a nice machine.

Here's the almost finished quilt top... excuse the cat, he's a ham and had to be in the picture. He loves the quilt and can't stay away from it.

vacuumfreeeke++4-4-2010-08-37-27.jpg
 
Viking Quality

Viking is shifting away from their Swedish built machines, just their SE Diamond is now made in Sweden. Plus they're still keeping their prices really high compared to other better featured machines. Vacuumfreeeke,(nice quilt!) the needle threader you describe on your machine isn't even available on Viking's TOL. The same with Bernina. They both still use those pull down type threaders. On BugsyJones big Brother machine, the needle threading is motorized. Bernina's is motorized as well, but only on their 820/830 series and you can buy a decent car for the price of those machines.

Sudsmaster, no worries about finding parts for your machines. Quite a bit of them are still available new and most good sewing shops will keep a supply of old machines around for parts. Locally, to go through a mechanical machine, is around $59.00 plus parts. The machine is cleaned, oiled, timing and tensions are reset.
 
Tim,

What do you think of this Brother? It does 4x4 embroidery, and also has a USB port so (I think) you can either upload designs from a computer to the machine's internal memory, or run the design directly from the PC.

I'm getting more interested in embroidery as I see it as a way of personalizing even store-bought clothing etc in a positive way.

It's an LB-6800 THD...

http://www.costco.com/Browse/Produc..._Price|1||P_SignDesc1&lang=en-US&Sp=C&topnav=
sudsmaster++4-10-2010-18-52-50.jpg
 
My latest sewing progect

I made this modeled after a photogragh taken in 1876. One if the local historical houses was having a Christmas open house and the house was decorated from this time period. JEB

jeb++4-10-2010-23-00-22.jpg
 
Sudsmaster

That embroidery machine is good for the causal embroiderer. To me, the 4x4 hoop isn't near big enough for what I use it for. But if you just want a little something here or there, it's probably a good choice.

I got the Innovis 4000 because it had the largest hoop size at 7.5x11. The next size up would have been a commerical embroiderer.

The big hoop comes in very handy for what I need it for. The great majority of images I do are big. And I use the 7.5x11 hoop the most.

Here's a picture of an image I've done. It's actually so big that it's split up into four parts. This image alone was about 10,000 stitches! Note: The seams aren't as noticeable as they are in the picture. The flash sort of 'enhances' them. It reflects off of the shiny thread.

~Tim

bugsyjones++4-11-2010-00-35-57.jpg
 
That's both beautiful and impressive, Tim.

I'll have to think about the hoop size, a bit, but I suspect the 4x4 would be fine for pocket patches and collar monograms, etc. The XR9000 font is very basic - more like ID tags than embroidery.

I looked for instructions on oiling the Brother today. Couldn't find any. I guess it's permanently lubricated. Only maintenance task seems to be wiping down the exterior and cleaning the bobbin pit free of dust now and then.
 
Bit Bigger Machine

Rich, here is a larger version of an embroidery only machine, also by Brother. The link is from HSN, but it can be found at other sources. It runs a 5 x 7 hoop, you can also run smaller hoops as well as a optional multi position hoop for doing longer, split designs. Babylock had a similiar machine, the Emore and you may find some deals locally if you check with a Babylock dealer. Same DNA as the Brother machines. And true, the new machines need little or no oiling.

Once you start the embroidery path, there is still a matter of threads, stablizers and software. For me Embird was the cheapest and you can add the modules you need for the type of work you are doing. Software is used to modify designs, resize them or to digitize and make your own. I use a place called Shoppers Rule for most of my supplies like thread and such. Excellent service and the prices are good. I have had good luck as well with Embroidery Library, another online source for the designs.

Tim, your work is fantastic. I really like those roses on the jacket. I've download a bunch of western designs, but now just need the time to put together the shirts. And that was no easy task spliting that Indian head design. Great job!

http://crafts-sewing.hsn.com/brothe...m=ct|ct0052|43&prev=hp!sf!43&ccm=ct|ct0052|43
 
Mike,

Thanks for the info.

Yes, the one you linked is a bit bigger - but also cost twice as much as the LB-6800THD.

I did some further searching and found that prices for dedicated embroidery machines are quite high. It's difficult to find pricing on-line - they want you to visit an authorized dealer - but I gather a six needle semi-pro machine like the Brother PR-650 runs about $10,000. The software isn't cheap, either, although I have seem some "free" digitizing software on the net, which might work (although Brother warns against using non-Brother digitizing software).

It's all intriguing but at $10,000 we're getting into the range of lower end CNC machining tools... although $30,000 is probably more like it. I'd have to decide if I preferred making designs on cloth to designing and making things out of metal, lol. And CNC software is even more expensive than embroidery software.
 
Pricing

Hi Rich, yes, the big six needle machine retails around 10K, but like most things you can get better pricing on them. With 6 threads you spend less time changing threads, which is important in a production environment. They look complicated, but are actually very easy to run.

Initially for embroiderers what they need is support, a shop where you are comfortable asking questions and that they will assist you and not show you the door. Most of the software for the major machines can run from $2500 to $4000. That is why Embird is reasonable. To get you up and running, for the Basic, Studio (so you can digitize) and Font Engine (for lettering) would be about $439. If you wanted to add the photo stitch or cross stitch, those are additional.

Brother uses .PES for it's designs. Of course they want you to buy their expense software. .PES is just an extension, like .HUS or SHV for Viking, etc. Embird works fine with Brother machines.

If you know programs like Illustrator or Coral Draw, you can digitize. After experimenting you will find how the designs go together and how they stitch out. It is a very addicting hobby. At Viking I would point out that people outgrow the 4x4 hoop quickly and then it's time to upgrade the machine. Though that bigger Brother is twice the price it is a lot stronger machine with more features. By going to a dealer you may find it well under that price. If you go the route of a used embroidery machine, just check the dealer's policy for warranty or returns.

And I'm always happy get emails on this as well. Plus if it is just a couple of designs you need, let me know and I would be happy to digitize them for you.
 
Mike,

What you say makes sense although I don't think I'm really interested in doing large embroidery pieces. I'm thinking more along the lines of little monograms and curious accents here and there. Probably nothing canned - I'm thinking of unusual designs and such. I prefer the understated to the reach out and grab you look, lol.
 
Rich, then the 4x4 should work out ok for you. You can have a lot of fun with smaller embroideries as well. I had an older French cuff shirt. Needed something for the company Christmas party, so I ordered a stylized, very simple reindeer design from one of the online sites. I used silver metallic thread and did the design on both cuffs. Small touch, but I got a lot of compliments on the shirt. And a note on metallic thread, a real pain in neck to use as it is metal you're trying to get to run through the machine. Other fun threads are solar thread, it changes color in sunlight and glow in the dark thread. I've used these for things I've embroidered for my niece's kids.

Also a lot of the embroidery and sewing machine sites have free designs to download. You can find a lot of accent stuff that way.
 
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