Speed Queen Centerposts 101

[gansky1]

Well, it's time to begin working on that early 70's Speed Queen I told everyone about last weekend. I've started on the job and taken some pictures along the way so you can all see what's under the hood...

This is our subject machine, to refresh your memory...

 

[gansky1]

Now that our hole is patched and we've resealed and protected the outer tub from the perils of water, we can get back to the center post replacement.

From inside the wash tub, you can see the eight screws that bolt the wash tub to the center post unit. These are stainless steel screws which is good, but they have been tightly locked into an aluminum base for so many years - they can be a reall PITA to remove. After a few tries, I discovered a relatively simple solution.

 

[gansky1]

With my torch, I heat the screw holes from under the tub, then drip penetrating oil onto the bottom of the screw which is wicked down into the threads of the screw and around the aluminum threads. The heat makes everthing expand and the cool oil makes everthing contract quickly, breaking and lubing the bond quickly. (Remember though, the oil is flamable, so you have to be very careful not to overheat the metals.)

 

[gansky1]

Of course, the first thing we need to do is unplug the machine, move it out from the wall and remove the front panel and the top of the washer. Speed Queens by this point were relatively easy to access, only four screws to remove the front panel, two bolts holding the top down in front, then pull the top forward and raise it. Disconnect the quick-plug wiring harness and you can put the machine top out of your way. Here is the machine 'topless'.

 

[gansky1]

I'm using a vise-grip pliers clamped onto the handle of my screwdriver for added leverage to get the screws to turn.

 

[gansky1]

Luckily, this heat and oil trick worked beautifully, I was able to remove six of the eight screws this way in good enough shape that I was able to reuse them! Two of the scres had to be a little more trouble though and I used a Dremel cutting blade to cut away the pot-metal around the screw.

Look at that nasty centerpost and gasket!

 

[gansky1]

That's better! The new post is installed and done, ready for years of washing and spinning!

I don't have the gaskets to fit between the tub and the centerpost so I cut one by hand from sheet-cork material - available at most hardware and auto parts stores. You can see where I will trim away the excess.

Job done! Less than two hours, not as bad as I thought!

 

[gyrafoam]

I'll don a HAZMAT outfit real quick---this should be good------

 

[gansky1]

As you can see, I've removed the agitator and now it's time to remove the agitator shaft. The thrust collar on the agitate shaft, found just below the main spin-bearing housing is to keep the agitator shaft in place. There are two bolts on the thrust collar that I've pointed to in red. There is a hex-head screw in the center of each one and on these "newer" models, they are also 3/8" heads so a socket wrench and extension can be used. We loosen those and let the thrust collar drop down.

 

[gansky1]

Mr. Riley!

Sit down and be quiet in the back until the filmstrip is over!

 

[gansky1]

Once the thrust collar is loose, you should be able to pull it straight up.

 

[gansky1]

Mid-way up the center post there are four bolts that need to be removed to remove the tub from the machine. I usually heat these prior to even trying to budge them...

 

[gansky1]

Well the tub is out and here is the outer tub.

Wait a second, what's that I see under layers of crud?

 

[gansky1]

OH NO! It's a horrible rust hole!

Well class, it looks like we're going to have to take a break and go over the chapter on "Patching outer tub holes"!

Let's have a snap quiz!

What would you use to patch this hole?

Remember, this part of the tub is flanged and the boot must still be clamped onto the tub (pictured in the previous photo) BUT this has no structural support for the tub or the machine - all of that is below the tub so this is primarily just a flange for the boot and a water-dam.

 

[gansky1]

Just for fun, this is the bottom of the tub and center post. You can see a hole in the corroded mess that was leaking water from the washtub into the outer tub so as it was agitating, the water level was constantly going down.

The funny thing is that when I was using this washer last weekend, it didn't leak a drop of water! All those layers of crud held back the water in the outer tub. Not a drop got out! Yuk!

 

[blackstone]

Greg,
It is not usually that easy to remove those four bolts in the center post. After years of corrosion, sometimes this is what spells the end of the machine. I like to periodically loosen these screws on my machine to avoid this problem.

 

[jetcone]

Those are like the GE FilterFlos

If you can't get those three tub bolts out its Krushers for the machine!

I am amazed at how SQ touted Stainless Steel this and that and had it sparkling for the consumer but just underneath it all was cheap dum dum pot metal. THE MOST Corrosive annoying stuff to build into a washing machine!

Even heavily enamelled porcelain would have held up better than that stuff. Look at how the lint clings to it.

I love Filmstriip Greg, more please. I'll sit down now.

 

[Unimatic1140]

Oh Greg, those huge holes! I've been there, I would probably two part plumbers epoxy coming from both sides.

 

[jetcone]

Thats what I would do too and

I'd work in strips of thin stainless steel in the epoxy to strengthen it. Or stainless steel wire wound around the opening.

 

[foraloysius]

Oy, that doesn't look very good. Hope you can repair it, it's such a nice set.

 

[mickeyd]

You can't know how much it means to me to sit in on thes

I've never had any--damned Jesuits--and now I can learn. Thank You. I've been practicing.

Is that a small blue flame coming out of your torch? How long do you heat the bolts? I don't see any smoke :-D

 

[hoover1060]

Very cool!
What is the center post made out of? It looks like its been wrapped in duct tape!

 

[brettsomers]

so that texture going up the centerpost is mostly corrosion?

and the wash water gets thown over the top of the clothes guard and balance ring, or are there holes under the clothes guard i cant see?

 

[gansky1]

The centerpost is cast aluminum alloy (a.k.a. pot-metal) and the texture you see on the outside is all from corrosion. I have a couple of centerposts that are painted (probably powder-coated) that would stand up to corrosive water and detergents much better.

That is a blue flame coming out of the torch, it's actually much larger but the flash distorts the visual (how many times have you heard that?) and I usually heat the bolts for a minute or two all around before I try to pop them with a socket (9/16"). I've done this quite a few times and never had any trouble getting the bolts to come out. Once the bolts are removed, I heat that area again to aid in releasing the tub from the spin-hub underneath. The other trick will be to get the screws holding the centerpost to the SS tub - sometimes they don't want to let go.

 

[buffster]

Mr. Gansky

You are brave! That would be the point where I would pull out the plastic and say "charge it" and "don't scratch it while you unload my new washer from your truck young man." You're also a good instructor. You should write a book. You'd make a fortune.

 

[roto204]

Oh my!!!

Holy schnikies!!

I agree with Robert--2-part plumber's epoxy. JB Weld might be lovely and sandable, but would need some sort of backer material to cover such a large hole.

Lordy, what a hole, too! (Let it go; otherwise we'll talk about the flash versus visual thing.) I wonder what caused it? Shizzy porcelain?

Thank you for the awesome step-by-step info and pics! You are a good instructor indeed

 

[gyrafoam]

Since the area does not have the pressure of a tub full of water pressing on it----at least not constantly-----I am thinking a piece of mesh like one would use to Bondo for support, then JB Weld over the top. Come to think of it, with a good coat of JB Weld, pressure is a non-issue.

 

[brisnat81]

Pulling the Centrepost

Hi Greg,

Your pictures are very fortuitious as I'm trying to strip down a fluid drive machine, to get the tub seal out as a spare.

I found the bolt directly under the spin bearing assembly, but now thats out, I cant get the agitate shaft to move upwards at all.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to free a stuck agitate shaft?

I'm trying to figure out how the gearbox drive, the clutch and the agitate shaft all mesh and unmesh from each other. Do you mind explaining further please?

Regards
Nathan

 

[gansky1]

Hi Nathan - saw you called tonight but was on the phone already!

If at all like the Speed Queen, your agitate shaft may be stuck inside the spin shaft or in the centerpost itself - I've had to remove the thrust collar screws and then pull the tub and agitate shaft out at the same time, then you can use a rubber mallet to whack it out of the post. When lifting the tub and shaft together out of the machine, use two people as you have to lift higher than you're used to or might think you will.

Hope that helps! G

 

[gansky1]

Well, the work continues! Since we're taking a step aside from our lesson plans, we'll get right back to the pressing problem of our overly-holey drain tub.

I decided to use a fast, easy and cheap method to patch these holes as soon as I saw them. I've used this quite a few times before for outer tub problems and have always had good luck. You'll need plastic pail (like cheap ice cream comes in) or a cool-whip container, etc. - and a pair of scissors or a sharp blade to cut the plastic.