Stuck Agitator on A207
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good-shepherd
Well-known member
There was no crumbling rust. Verdict?
Appears to be some rust pitting on the agitator shaft.
Could try cleaning it up with very fine sand paper followed by epoxy paint, but may not last as mentioned. (Scotch Brite pads are good for polishing up the trans case where the bearing sleeve rides).
At least the machine will be easy to disassemble next time... Put some vaseline or silicone grease on the agitator splines so it doesn't get stuck again. Also, a good idea to lube the damper pads while the tub is off, they're probably in rough shape as well.
https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?54335
Appears to be some rust pitting on the agitator shaft.
Could try cleaning it up with very fine sand paper followed by epoxy paint, but may not last as mentioned. (Scotch Brite pads are good for polishing up the trans case where the bearing sleeve rides).
At least the machine will be easy to disassemble next time... Put some vaseline or silicone grease on the agitator splines so it doesn't get stuck again. Also, a good idea to lube the damper pads while the tub is off, they're probably in rough shape as well.
https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?54335
Rusted-Pitted MT Washer Agitator Shaft
The agitator shaft is too pitted to give you much life from the new seal and mounting stem kit.
Someone on this site experimented with filling the pitted area with some type of epoxy and sanding it smooth, I have never tried this but it looked like it might work, I have always just replaced the transmission with either a new one or good used one if you want the repair to last more than a year or so.
John L.
The agitator shaft is too pitted to give you much life from the new seal and mounting stem kit.
Someone on this site experimented with filling the pitted area with some type of epoxy and sanding it smooth, I have never tried this but it looked like it might work, I have always just replaced the transmission with either a new one or good used one if you want the repair to last more than a year or so.
John L.
Trash or treasure??
I've had the belief, and it seems others on this forum do too, that an older Maytag is a gem that should be preserved - within reason. Have I reached the point of crossing the line into unreasonable? If I replace the transmission, where do I get a new one? Online or from a local appliance place? How long would the new one last? How do I know the pump or motor won't go out in the near future? Perhaps I should buy a washboard and trot down to the creek!
As for "pitting"; correct me if I'm wrong. I thought that meant "rough and pocked". The clarity in my pictures is not good. The agitator shaft is actually very smooth! My husband has a lot of experience with working on gun metals and has every cleaning product you can think of. He is using Break Free and a mesh copper scouring pad on the shaft. If I truly have to replace the transmission, that might put my beloved washer in a graveyard. For myself, I'm willing to keep plugging away at this job, but it sure is putting a ton of stress in my home!
Thanks folks, y'all are the best.
I've had the belief, and it seems others on this forum do too, that an older Maytag is a gem that should be preserved - within reason. Have I reached the point of crossing the line into unreasonable? If I replace the transmission, where do I get a new one? Online or from a local appliance place? How long would the new one last? How do I know the pump or motor won't go out in the near future? Perhaps I should buy a washboard and trot down to the creek!
As for "pitting"; correct me if I'm wrong. I thought that meant "rough and pocked". The clarity in my pictures is not good. The agitator shaft is actually very smooth! My husband has a lot of experience with working on gun metals and has every cleaning product you can think of. He is using Break Free and a mesh copper scouring pad on the shaft. If I truly have to replace the transmission, that might put my beloved washer in a graveyard. For myself, I'm willing to keep plugging away at this job, but it sure is putting a ton of stress in my home!
Thanks folks, y'all are the best.
It's a Maytag, not a Norge
It sounds like your husband's work with gun metal qualifies him to properly assess the smoothness of the agitator shaft. If he says it's smooth, I say ditch the idea of a new transmission. As you stated, one has to draw the line somewhere (although the pump and motor are easy to replace -- but I doubt you'll ever have to).
You can always keep an eye out for a donor machine or transmission if at some point -- more than a year from now -- you even need to revisit this, and disassembly will be a cinch if it's necessary.
It sounds like your husband's work with gun metal qualifies him to properly assess the smoothness of the agitator shaft. If he says it's smooth, I say ditch the idea of a new transmission. As you stated, one has to draw the line somewhere (although the pump and motor are easy to replace -- but I doubt you'll ever have to).
You can always keep an eye out for a donor machine or transmission if at some point -- more than a year from now -- you even need to revisit this, and disassembly will be a cinch if it's necessary.
I'm in your same position, and in MY opinion, what you have is treasure, not trash.
A little bit of balance for the discussion - many people here on the forum are collectors, and many people either own their own appliance repair businesses, work for one, or know someone who does, giving them a different perspective on parts availability. Or, they have the space and connections to acquire and salvage parts machines to assemble the best of the best into their own machines, but you have to play the lottery that the used machine you buy for parts is in better shape than what you have now. All of that is not always available to, or practical for, the rest of us.
New transmissions of this type have been NLA (no-longer available) for a very long time now. Replacement agitator shafts from Maytag (which used to come as a pre-made assembly with the top half of the transmission case and the small gear) have also been NLA for a very long time. Third-party (non-Maytag) substitute agitator shafts went into production when Maytag stopped, but those have ALSO been NLA for a long time. And there have been very few parts showing up on eBay or the like lately.
You can try asking around at your local Mom & Pop appliance repair shops, but every single one I've talked to said they have zero spares due to the age of the machines. It's worth a try, but don't be surprised if you come up empty.
I feel relatively confident saying all this, because I've been searching for months, and if these parts had been available, I would have bought them myself.
We have a transmission apart from an A308, that has an agitator shaft in much worse shape than yours. Our plan is to restore and use it - following the procedure of building it up with a small amount of JB-Weld to fill the pits, and then polishing it smooth to maximize the life of the seals. Other than possibly a shorter life on the $50 seal, I don't see what you have to loose by trying with what you have, and after taking the machine apart this far, you certainly seem plenty capable of the filling/smoothing job that others have done!
Good luck!
A little bit of balance for the discussion - many people here on the forum are collectors, and many people either own their own appliance repair businesses, work for one, or know someone who does, giving them a different perspective on parts availability. Or, they have the space and connections to acquire and salvage parts machines to assemble the best of the best into their own machines, but you have to play the lottery that the used machine you buy for parts is in better shape than what you have now. All of that is not always available to, or practical for, the rest of us.
New transmissions of this type have been NLA (no-longer available) for a very long time now. Replacement agitator shafts from Maytag (which used to come as a pre-made assembly with the top half of the transmission case and the small gear) have also been NLA for a very long time. Third-party (non-Maytag) substitute agitator shafts went into production when Maytag stopped, but those have ALSO been NLA for a long time. And there have been very few parts showing up on eBay or the like lately.
You can try asking around at your local Mom & Pop appliance repair shops, but every single one I've talked to said they have zero spares due to the age of the machines. It's worth a try, but don't be surprised if you come up empty.
I feel relatively confident saying all this, because I've been searching for months, and if these parts had been available, I would have bought them myself.
We have a transmission apart from an A308, that has an agitator shaft in much worse shape than yours. Our plan is to restore and use it - following the procedure of building it up with a small amount of JB-Weld to fill the pits, and then polishing it smooth to maximize the life of the seals. Other than possibly a shorter life on the $50 seal, I don't see what you have to loose by trying with what you have, and after taking the machine apart this far, you certainly seem plenty capable of the filling/smoothing job that others have done!
Good luck!
hippiedoll
Well-known member
ALRIIIIIGHT!!
I'm so glad the blow dryer tip worked for you!
Keeping my fingers crossed that you can keep your Maytag going strong!
)
I'm so glad the blow dryer tip worked for you!
Keeping my fingers crossed that you can keep your Maytag going strong!
)good-shepherd
Well-known member
I'd give the JB weld, epoxy paint method a try if needed and see how it goes.
In the meantime keep an eye on Craigslist for a new used Maytag Dependable Care washer.
Personally, I would't put too much time or money into a standard capacity MOL machine.
In the meantime keep an eye on Craigslist for a new used Maytag Dependable Care washer.
Personally, I would't put too much time or money into a standard capacity MOL machine.
you might be better off grabbing a whole other machine.....or in this case, a matched set....
this one has the long stroke pitman transmission......as for most replacements only come as the short stroke orbital drive...
just a thought at 200.00 for a pair....
https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/app/d/nokesville-maytag-washer-dryer-heavy/6788546396.html
this one has the long stroke pitman transmission......as for most replacements only come as the short stroke orbital drive...
just a thought at 200.00 for a pair....
https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/app/d/nokesville-maytag-washer-dryer-heavy/6788546396.html
another nice set.....this one would have the orbital transmission....
but again, at 150.00 for the set.....
https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/app/d/arlington-maytag-washer-dryer/6785608060.html
but again, at 150.00 for the set.....
https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/app/d/arlington-maytag-washer-dryer/6785608060.html
good-shepherd
Well-known member
just a thought at 200.00 for a pair....
Why do people leave the old POS supply hoses attached to flop around to chip and scratch what was an otherwise nice matching set..
Plus using the power cord as a rope wrapped around the agitator to hold up the lines and drain hose up. Two minutes with a channel lock pliers and a screw driver can get the whole mess removed and out of the way, Sheese..
And this guy mentions the old hoses as a selling point in the ad as if they were some valuable commodity.
Why do people leave the old POS supply hoses attached to flop around to chip and scratch what was an otherwise nice matching set..
Plus using the power cord as a rope wrapped around the agitator to hold up the lines and drain hose up. Two minutes with a channel lock pliers and a screw driver can get the whole mess removed and out of the way, Sheese..
And this guy mentions the old hoses as a selling point in the ad as if they were some valuable commodity.
I know right!
he could have removed the hoses, carefully tie up the cord, install new belt, lube the glides, clean the lint out, grab the auto wax and buff this thing to a new shine, and wrapped it bubble wrap before he delivered and installed it....
or he could have just tossed these to the curb for scappers….a lot less headaches that way!....don't you agree....
I have been a buyer and a seller, so I understand things from both sides...especially with what CL attracts!
he could have removed the hoses, carefully tie up the cord, install new belt, lube the glides, clean the lint out, grab the auto wax and buff this thing to a new shine, and wrapped it bubble wrap before he delivered and installed it....
or he could have just tossed these to the curb for scappers….a lot less headaches that way!....don't you agree....
I have been a buyer and a seller, so I understand things from both sides...especially with what CL attracts!
Hi Martha, All three pictures in your post # 19 show serious pitting and rust on the critical seal area of the agitator shaft.
John L.
John L.
Ready to BURN my A207
I applied the JB Weld on the transmission shaft, let it cure and then sanded smooth and reassembled the machine, attemting to follow the instructions in one of the links provided in this thread. Filled the machine half full with water. Two observations made me uncomfortable: 1) A constant stream of rising bubbles from the shaft. 2) A small drip in back right corner of tub where a hose (uncertain what it's called or purpose) attaches with a wire clamp. Baffled because upon inspection with my fingers all around the clamp, it was dry.
Now, things got too interesting when i set it to spin. Water gushed from the underside so horribly that i didn't try to pinpoint the problem but was grabbing towels and bailing water from the tub at lightening speed.
I still believe the washer is salvageable but that my inexperience is the problem. As of now, I'm ready to swing a sledgehammer at it.
I applied the JB Weld on the transmission shaft, let it cure and then sanded smooth and reassembled the machine, attemting to follow the instructions in one of the links provided in this thread. Filled the machine half full with water. Two observations made me uncomfortable: 1) A constant stream of rising bubbles from the shaft. 2) A small drip in back right corner of tub where a hose (uncertain what it's called or purpose) attaches with a wire clamp. Baffled because upon inspection with my fingers all around the clamp, it was dry.
Now, things got too interesting when i set it to spin. Water gushed from the underside so horribly that i didn't try to pinpoint the problem but was grabbing towels and bailing water from the tub at lightening speed.
I still believe the washer is salvageable but that my inexperience is the problem. As of now, I'm ready to swing a sledgehammer at it.
as per instructions...there is a certain point in reassembly where you set it to spin with an empty tub to seat everything first...
but I will go with John's recommendation of that shaft not in the best condition to be reused...
but I will go with John's recommendation of that shaft not in the best condition to be reused...
eurekastar
Well-known member
It sounds to me like your pressure switch hose blew off the outer tub when it went into spin. You might check that out. If that's it, you just reattach it with a small hose clamp.
Did you have the agitator installed when you did the water test?
