stuck agitator puller- made cheap!

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I pulled the hub boot using the same steering wheel puller but with longer chains. I jammed a screw driver in the hub to trip the tab lock, while pulling the hub off. Incredible amount of scrud under there (scrud definition: soap, rust, lint, thread, dirt, grease, ruff:) My finger is pointing out the tab lock in the pictures.
I cleaned it up. The 3 12pt bolts that hold the tub are extremely corroded. I am going to have to bring in a compressor and an impact air wrench. I have sprayed them up with Deep Creep to soak overnight. If those bolts won't come out with anything less than drilling and easy outs, or a torch, this old girl may be destined for the scrap pile:(

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Looks Like Success!

Well, it looks like a success. I have more details and pictures to post when I get a bit of time... also a few more questions regarding alignment, and the water valve.
 
More clean up and rust treatment pictures

I am just posting all of the pictures in groups here. It is too much work to get them all perfectly chronological. I wish I could put all the captions with the corresponding pictures but I have to upgrade my account to be able to edit.

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Finished basket interior

Look closely and you can see the black POR15 around the inside of the basket holes. I masked the holes off, on the inside of the basket before treating the outside, so the POR15 wouldn't drip all over the interior.

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There was rust present in a lot of places between the basket and the tub. It cleaned up well with a wire wheel, brush, sand paper, scrapers, POR15 Cleaner Degreaser, and POR15 Metal Prep/Etcher. I put the basket in a kiddie pool on the lawn, but had to do the outer tub prep in place in the house, taping over the drain holes to contain the liquids until the process was finished. It was a lot of work but with patience there was no turning back now.

I bought a small POR15 rust treatment kit (pictured) for around $45 CAD; Canadian Tire carries some POR15 products too, for a little cheaper. I needed a little more POR15 paint than what came in the kit, so I bought a '6 Pack' of 4oz cans (pictured). It's best to open just one small can at a time as needed because POR15 doesn't keep that well after opening.

I cleaned and etched the entire surface of the tubs. I put one coat of POR15 on the areas that had been rusting, then went back and put another coat over everything. The underside of the top of the washer received POR15, and anywhere else where rust had begun to take hold.
I figured POR15 was the best suited rust treatment system to use under these circumstances. It uses moisture to cure; doesn't require a topcoat unless it is subject to direct UV light of the sun. Get as much of the rust off as you can; POR stands for Paint Over Rust so stable rust is ok. POR15 has pretty strong fumes. It is as tough as nails.

A pinhole did appear while scraping rust in the bottom of the outer tub. I used JB Weld to fill it before the POR15 was applied.

I replaced the original corroded basket mounting bolts with stainless steel bolts and washers (HomeDepot). The lock tab on the plastic hub cover was sprung and no longer hooking on; I used a hairdrier to soften it while pulling it back into shape.

I used a 4lb hammer to drive a solid rubber mallet down, to get the agitator fully seated; a little Vaseline helped on the splines.

I got the motor drive pulley to align better with the pump pulley (where that sectional rubber flex coupling is) by adding a couple of steel washers to one of the three mounting points (I think there are before and after pictures).
The hot water is slow filling into the tub. I need to see if there is a clogged screen in the fill valve, or if it's the house plumbing.

That's all I can think of.
The washer works like a dang! I am looking forward to it's 60th birthday!
 
Afterthoughts:
The POR15 prep is water based so after the outer tub rinse, drain, and sponge I placed a small heater and fan in over night to dry it up real good in there before applying the POR15.
After the second coat of POR15 in the outer tub I placed a fan in there to circulate the air to help with the curing.
 
I need to mention that the original stalling problem the machine was having no longer exists. I turned the pump/motor a bunch by hand to get it going again, and it has not looked back. Maybe something caught in the pump, maybe that enormous srcud and lint build up, maybe all of the above.
It's nice to say it's FIXED.
 
transmission trouble?

The old girl stopped spinning for my wife. I went down and spun the agitator by hand. It started going but didn't seem to be up to speed. I dialed in a final spin; at a certain point in the spin cycle it seemed to gain full speed. Does this sound like a transmission problem, and how difficult will it be changing out the tranny, if indeed I can find one. Can they be rebuilt; maybe I can find parts?
 
The best way to get the agitator off (this applies to the older Whirlpool belt drive machines with the metal or nylon agitator drive block) is to take a socket and hit it with a mallet a few times which will free up the agitator. Did that a few times to my Whirlpool washer.
 
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