Super Interesting Kenmore Dryer

[bellalaundry]

I came across this Facebook Ad today...I can't say I've ever seen this model before. I like how "spartan" it is, and that it's capable of being installed under a counter...

With it's lengthy time increments...I would assume it was 110v, however, the seller says it was hard wired in. So one wonders!

Guy

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[launderess]

In common with many older clothes dryers this Whirlpool sourced (start of model number with 110 indicates manufacture is WP) dryer could be run at 120v or 120v/240v power. One chose which power source to use and wired dryer accordingly.

Maytag and some others also offered a choice of wiring.

https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?32240

Though not as easily found as 120v one could then and today still find compact dryers that run on 120v/240 power.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/559359/Kenmore-240-Volt-Compact-Electric-Dryers.html

Am by no means an electrical expert but see no reason why a dryer running on 120v power would need to be hardwired. Ranges, ovens, and other appliances pulling large amounts of power for extended periods of time would be another matter.

https://www.mybuilder.com/questions...ence between a,peak performance i.e Max Usage.

Am going to guess this dryer could easily have a standard 120v/240v power cord with plug and use proper outlet.

 

[repairguy]

It’s a 1970 model built the 24th week of that year.

 

[DADoES]

 
These were available from the 1960s into the 1970s.  Budget standard-capacity, price little as $75 to to $130 through the years.  They had a low-profile trim piece on top at the back but it reasonably could be removed or fit behind a countertop.

 

[swestoyz]

That’s a cool dryer. Certainly looks similar to the portable washer sold at that time.

The timer escutcheon design is very similar to the model 100 ‘61 combo. Finding one of those would be an incredible find.

Ben

 

[circlew]

Launderers, the link you provided to "my builder.com" is in the UK, and therefore irrelevant in the US and Canada.

Typically, freestanding ranges and dryers here are connected using a proper rated cord and plug - 50 amp for a range, and (usually) a 30 amp for a dryer. All new installations require a 4 wire cord (separate neutral and equipment ground), with a matching receptacle, while existing installations can use a 3 wire cord (combined neutral and equipment ground) and receptacle.

Built-in ovens and cooktop are usually hardwired, as they are not normally removed from their cabinet except for replacement or major service work. Many such appliances have a length of MC cable or wires in flexible conduit attached, which are connected to the building wiring at a junction box located in the cabinet the appliance is installed in.

Some older installations were hardwired. When we first got a dryer in 1963, the electrician connected the cable (10-3 w/GR) directly to the appliance. It was located right next to the fuse box, so was convenient for him to do so. When I was in high school, I bought a cord and receptacle, and installed these for it. I was in an old house one time that had a very old range (1930's) that was permanently wired in using flexible conduit to a junction box behind it. The only other ranges I've seen installed that way were commercial models in a restaurant or school kitchen.

 

[combo52]

Basic front control, 29 inch dryers

These were made as mentioned from the late 60s into the 70s, it was mainly to get people into the store to look at a dryer. They were sometimes advertise for as little as $50 here in this area, and they tried everything in the book to get you not to buy it I did successfully buy one for a customer that had an old Westinghouse dryer that was beyond reasonable repair.

The first versions of this use the filter inside the drum like the portable dryer, but many had the lint filter on the top, which would make it hard to put it under a counter, it was also too tall to go under a standard kitchen counter, although you could raise a couple inches I guess .

This was a 240 V dryer although it only had a 4400 W heating element in it. The timer had a much longer max dry cycle so you could connect it to 120 V if you didn’t have 240 V available.

Many electric ranges and dryers are still hardwired. It’s actually much safer but codes require a disconnect switch within sight of the machine sometimes just being in the same area as your main circuit Breaker panel is sufficient to wire them in the safer more permanent way.

It would be very cool to find the combination washer dryer That Ben pictured I’ve never seen one of these. I suspect very few were sold most people that were gonna spend the money for a combination buught one of the better models. They also made a number of 24 inch belt drive washing machines with the same timer control on the front, this was also the low priced leader machine to try to get people to look at an automatic washer, but some of those were sold, we also saw a few of these dryers over the years. Nothing wrong with them at all.

Here’s a picture of a 30 amp dryer outlet that I saw burned up a week ago. This is what goes wrong with outlets and plugs sometimes and why it’s actually safer not to have this type of connection that could cause a fire as opposed to having the power cable directly connected inside a metal box. That’s part of the machine.

John

 

[circlew]

John, what do you think caused that receptacle to overheat? Was the plug not fully inserted, or not fitting snugly in the outlet? Another possibility I though of is that there was a loose connection in the receptacle - perhaps the terminals weren't torqued to the manufacturers specifications (wouldn't be uncommon), and the wire wasn't making good contact.

A receptacle and plug is an extremely common way of connecting ranges and dryers in this part of the country. Perhaps hardwired is used more in your area. As for the code requiring a disconnect within sight, I know that applies for water heaters and HVAC equipment. A cord and plug arrangement suffices for a dryer or free standing range, but I've not seen a disconnect provided for built-in ovens or cooktops. Sometimes panelboards are located in a kitchen, but not a particularly usual situation.

 

[Chetlaham]

Wrong with outlets and plugs

Obviously you've never seen all the burnt up terminal blocks, wire nuts, panel busbars and even breaker terminals in the real world. Joule heating or a high resistance connection can happen anywhere at any point of metal to metal contact in an electrical system. Over/under torquing, corrosion, vibration, poor workmanship, manufacturing defects, dissimilar metals, ect can cause it.

Hard wired vs plug does not eliminate any of those possibilities as they are still present regardless. In fact a plug is safer in that NEMA-10-30 and NEMA 14-30 dryer plugs have the same width, size thickness as NEMA 50 and 60 amp receptacles. A 30 amp dryer plug is running at literally half its theoretical design current.

 

[Chetlaham]

NEMA Plug Prong Sizes

OK, so I'm attaching the prong sizes of the following plugs:

30 amp dryer plug:

NEMA 10-30

NEMA 14-30

50 amp range plug:

NEMA 10-50

NEMA 14-50

60 amp straight plug for commercial/industrial equipment:

NEMA 14-60

NEMA 15-60

NEMA 18-60

Despite the 30, 50 and 60 amp listed ratings, the hot prongs are all the same size in thickness, width, shape, length size and so forth. Receptacles have identical construction internally. The only difference is the slot spacing and shape of the neutral prong.

Same goes for 30/50 amp plugs from Home Depot that come the same size hot blades but can be converted too fit 4 different receptacles.

https://www.amazon.com/14-50P，30-St...lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=A1SGLKEPTL694N&th=1

In other words in can be inferred that a 30 amp plug is designed with 60 amp components just listed and running at 30 amps.

No different in the way all 15 amp outlets have a 20 amp feed through rating and are designed with 20 amp components.

 

[circlew]

Chet, I've seen several burned and charred electrical parts. I fixed a Frigidaire dryer for a former classmate's mother that required replacing the terminal block and cord. Another time I had to remove an old fuse box that was in a building my dad's uncle owned. The plastic of the fuse holder was so charred it broke apart. A new breaker panel was therefore installed, with properly rated breakers. I've also seen panels with corroded aluminum busbars, and those that had got so hot that the breaker couldn't be removed - welded itself to the busbar. That was one we examined at the vocational school class I attended in the mid 70's. Some brands of panels were notorious for such issues. I've not had any of these problems at my house, though it used to have an FPE Stab-Loc panel. One time the main breaker wouldn't wouldn't shut the power off, even though it was in the off position - one leg remained on. Pushed it back to the on position, then off again, which it then worked correctly. My panels now are Eaton CH, with copper busbars, and the breakers fit much better than those in the FPE.

 

[combo52]

Dryer and range outlet and cord failures

Reply number seven, hi Tom The failure in the picture I posted above was because the 10 gauge copper wire was not adequately, clamped into the terminal inside the receptacle, this is a common problem. The terminals inside the surface mount receptacles are designed for up to number four gauge wire, and when you put a small 10 gauge copper wire in there, it often does not get clamped adequately and leads to this type of failure.

The problem with having a cord and outlet is you introduce four more points of failure in a high current situation. You have the connection between the house wiring and the receptacle you have the connection between the female and male contacts and then you have the connection inside the plug itself where it’s terminals are crimped to the wiring in the plug, and then you have on the dryer the little terminals that are crimped onto the end of the wire all additional places that I have seen fail.

Reply number eight you simply don’t make any sense. Of course I’ve seen burned up terminal blocks, but introducing four more connection points doesn’t make any sense you should think about what you write .

In this area, it’s common to see garbage, disposals and dishwashers, built-in cooktops and wall oven hardwired it is not that common to see close dryers and freestanding ranges hardwired any longer, but it was a safer way to have a more permanent connection which getting around that.

When you’re in commercial situations with heavy equipment, etc. they’re almost always hardwired factories etc. because of the superior connection you’re not gonna have a cord that can come out or somebody can get shocked, plugged in, etc.

John

 

[kenwashesmonday]

An ancient plug made of real bakelite would never melt like that.

 

[Chetlaham]

10 gauge copper wire was not adequate

Well, your going to have to get in touch with UL or make a code proposal. These receptacle is listed to accept 10 gauge copper, page 2:

https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/e...mr-nema-10-30-10-50-spec-sheet-td620065en.pdf

10 gauge torqued right will never present a problem.

Hardwiring could necessitate the use of a disconnect which would be 8 or 10 extra failure points as well. Much simpler to just use a receptacle as still done routinely here.