The Cory Bug - My first Amanas

[ovrphil]

So, a few weeks ago, I found Cory's website, and was impressed with the old Amana's..got the urge to just buy one and ended up driving to Greenville, SC (2.5hrs) yesterday to pick up a couple Amanas...a RR-9TB and RR-700. They were bought at night, in a garage at one house and outside in a carport, at another house. I know, not good. But they plugged in and worked, looked ok, so for $45..was happy! Now the reality:

1) The RR-700's CLOCK SET option on the front panel is not selectable..I've tried everything, but the LED blue selector arrow remains at the "MIN TIMER" choice. How do I select "Clock Set" or have I learned it just isn't working anymore? All I can do is set a timer amount(minutes, hours).

2) Do lighted oven Amana's typically have one light only, up inside the top? The RR-700 's light switch turns the light on and off, but with only the left rear part of the oven is lit; that right corner looks dark and lonely. :-0 The RR-9TB chromed machine appears to just have a burned out light. Replacement is $17 at :
that url link, but ouch, I'll need to find a cheaper source.

3) The inner door panel that holds the glass in place(it seems) is burned on one spot(I caught that when I bought it)..but it's also cracked on each side. Door swap or part swap? I think I'll need to find a donor door or donor part - it wouldn't be cost-effective to buy a part, even if it available? Otherwise, I need to check for LEAKAGE..with some device.

4)Is the handle on the RR-700 two knob unit supposed to be flexible, so that when you pull on it to open, it extends out a little and then retracts back? It seems BROKEN to me, but what do I know?

Just excited to have these and looking forward to repairing them. I'm stumped on the clock setting issue, so if someone has any idea, I would appreciate any help so much, thank you!

http:// www.repairclinic.com/Shop-For-Parts?RCAID=24041&s=t-RR-9TB-%3d%3d

 

[maytagbear]

I have a RR 700

To set the clock, you push in the Start button until it beeps and the display changes. Then, to set the time, use the upper dial, and push Start again to set it. Easier than storebought apple pie!

I've had my RR 700 (bought new) since 1986. I use it daily, and am glad to have it.

PS- yes, that is normal handle function.

Kelly, dear Kelly...the RR 700 with "Accudial" was sold as a home microwave, but the way it is overbuilt, it could do (but no guarantee for) light duty commercial use.

Lawrence/Maytagbear

 

[mixfinder]

Fraternal Twins

The microwave with knobs was designed for low volume commercial use and may not have a clock function.

 

[ovrphil]

Help for clock set

Lawrence , I can't thank you enough. Many years of computers (since 1981) and I couldn't figure out that simple two step function. Frustrated delirium replaced by exuberant techno-woo-hoo's. Thank you thank you many times. I now know it works.

While some people have different opinions of these Amana's, and find the newer technology more suitable, I bought these for their retro appeal. At the time, when these were created, I was college grad poor. I somehow lost sight of the beautiful designs- and as industrial designs(I studied art, but that doesn't mean anything, I ended up in computers)...they still have an inner appeal. We are all different, but I am in tune with their difference and celebrate anyone's happiness with their looks, use, or both. Thank you again, my friend!

 

[ovrphil]

Mixfinder - I appreciate that you replied - and don't care if your message was right or wrong - thank you very much for taking a few to reply!

 

[ovrphil]

Manual

Maytagbear: would you know where I might find a manual for the RR-700? Ebay comes to mind, of course

 

[philr]

Phil,

Can you show us pictures of the inside of your Radarange ovens? If it's the same design as my Frigidaire ovens look at the stirrers (or should I say their moving shadow)while they cook (with the light turned on on the one that works at least!) to see if they turn.

On both of mine, I had to cut the stirrer blades a bit so they would clear the plastic shields that have distorted a bit over the years.

 

[cadman]

Oh man, not the Cory bug!

As far as I know, there's no known cure!

Let's see...Lawrence is right on the money with setting the time. I remember the first time I picked up a 700. That took some real headscratching to figure out. Your burned out bulb should be available at the corner hardware store (might be harder to find one of those than the bulb itself!). Bayonet style, and I believe 2-pin, 25w.

It almost looks like someone set a hot butter knife on the edge of that door liner. Changing it out could be a real bear. It can be done, but you'll need a sacrificial machine, and the special screwdriver bit to get the door open. That's one op I've never attempted, but I should pick up the tools sometime. You might be better off holding out for another machine in better shape, and using this one as a donor.

 

[ovrphil]

PHILR.... Both RR-700 and RR-9TB have identical mwave distribution devices(motorized fan or arm). Your RCM-10 and RR-4 look different. (like we should be surprised, with the way Amana made so many changes in the same and different models). To see the mechansim, I had to upload a video to YouTube video(sorry, it lost some definition in the upload). BTW, I prefer your centered light vs. the position of mine in the left corner - optimizes viewing of food/drinks.

CORY.... Yep, I came to the same conclusion yesterday- make the RR-9TB a donor and look for another. I have tools up the wazoo for removing all kinds of screws, but unless I find a door in some weird and lucky way, I will leave it alone -just need to check for leakage. Yep again - it's a Sylvannia 2-pin 25W. I wonder if they make an LED yet with a two-pin adapter? They make a lot of LED's now with adapters..for cars and home use. The metal case area over the light gets very hot if the light is used for more than a minute.

You know the handle on the RR-700 moves as you pull on it, and thanks for explaining this to me. But I noticed there's a small gap remaining(1/4" or less) that remains after retraction/use. Would this be normal? If it's tweakable, I'd like to return it back to normal, if that moveable handle piece can sit flush against the stationary handle part. ? anyone deal with this ?

How easy/hard is it to clean that white ceiling grid that covers the motorized "mixer"? Whoever owned that RR-9TB didn't keep it clean- I'd like to clean both of those grids - is it fairly easy to remove and clean?

The RR-700 may not be the one we wanted in our kitchen, but it's nearly pristine, after I cleaned it up. The chrome is nearly perfect, and with Xymol car polish, the case looks minty new off the line. These are big and hulky units, but like the 1974 50th Anniversary Oldsmobile winter-beater I had, it had a style and elegance all its own, gas-guzzling aside. I can't say the love affair will last as long as Cory's, but so far so good. Thanks for your feedback.

 

[ovrphil]

Handle position and Cleaning old Amanas

It just came to me - the handle on the RR-700 sits proud of the attached handle because if it didn't, it would scratch...so I think the small gap is normal there.

To clean, I used what's pictured and everyone will have their own solution. But the car wax called Zymol was excellent in bringing out the surface and protecting it, after I scrubbed the case with a nail brush and the Oxygen Orange All Purpose Degreaser. And if you haven't tried Zymol, not that I'm affiliated with it (I am not)...it's really great wax - all natural, no harsh solvents and smells like coconut a little. I applied on the RR-700 and it leaves ZERO surface film of any type.

Trying to calm down - it's just a microwave. lol!

 

[ovrphil]

Special tool to remove door

" I say I say...son, you opened up your mouth too soon"

I looked at all the different screwdriver bits I have, but none are hex with a hole in the middle to remove that door. So is that the tool you were talking about, Cory?

 

[cadman]

Hmm. It's possible. The ones I recall look a little like a tri-wing arrangement, with three equi-distantly spaced recessed slots. Located on both sides of the door.

 

[ovrphil]

I think I left out some information, I was only looking at the hinges.

Here's my take on door removal:

1) disconnect from piano hinge, there's two different screwdriver bits needed.

2) Remove the door from the hinge....

3) Door should be free.

My problem is...one side of the metal arm that attaches to the door has two screws that appear stripped. The other side is clean(you can see the studded center and star-shaped head.

Anyway, Cory -I'll let it alone and look for another.

[this post was last edited: 10/18/2012-17:19]

 

[mattl]

I picked up a set of screwdriver tips from Harbor Freight, I'd guess about 50 total, with the security bits you need.  They were $7.50 a few years back, but I'd check there if you have one locally.  There are a number of sizes with the hole in the center.

 

[ovrphil]

Thank you! Will check 'em out. [this post was last edited: 10/18/2012-20:02]

 

[Iowegian]

Security fasteners were used in microwave ovens to make sure people that didn't know what they were doing from messing up doors and door seals so they wouldn't be exposed to dangerous levels of RF energy at frequencies that were detrimental to humans and pets.

Yeah, I get the fascination with old RadarRanges - they look cool with the chrome and general beefiness, but who here actually has the instrumentation to detect S-band microwave radiation emission from outside the cool-looking box?

 

[philr]

It seems these screws need regular Torx bits with a center hole. I have bought a set of these at an auto parts store to remove the airbag module on my 1975 Electra a few years ago.

Here are the Torx bits at the top of this picture.

And the regular Phillips screws on the RR-2 and those with the tri-wing arrangement Cory was talking about on the RCM-10.

 

[ovrphil]

Supposedly all ovens leak something(5 milliwatts FDA permissible but read that it is often more - and still not harmful, but who knows really?). I don't know of any cheap Spectrum Analyzers and know they're typically thousands(a nice used car) to accomplish the task of detection.

The next thought I had was to find someone who could do this at a fair price...probably more than I payed for the MW.

I used to have a device that reportedly would glow if there was a leak - imagine waiving this hand-held lolly-pop looking thing around/near a microwave that is leaking..."honey, you're glowing but that rattle isn't ". That "tool" wasn't a keeper.

I'll use the MW, but try to stay away as much as possible.

 

[cadman]

Dangerous Microwaves!

Your new Microwave Oven, 1959!

The description actually says cooking cannot begin until the overhead unit sits down into the counter. Of course it's a total mockup, but wonder where they borrowed those wall controls from?

I bought a microwave leakage detector a few years ago off eBay to play around with and to see how 'leaky' some of these old RR's are. On the couple models I tested it with, there was no real radiation to speak of. If the door mechanism (seals, choke, latches, springs) are in good shape, then odds of any leakage are extremely low.

Now, I do wonder about these new microwave ovens, especially the walmart wonders. Amana didn't cut any corners and their designs show they weren't trying to save a nickel on every part. Their motivation was a quality product. I don't know if I can say the same for a lot of the offshore junk on store shelves today, long-term safety especially.