The Endangered GE Double Oven Story...

[3beltwesty]

Any experts know the GE part number for the 120 volt outlets

I am looking for the right/corner 120 volt socket; the one NOT marked timed.

The only Stove I have and use daily looks very similar to your "new" stove. But the unit here is a late 1971 Hotpoint RHV886 Electronic oven range. The lower oven on mine was when it worked both a 945 Mhz Microwave and a Regular self cleaning oven too. The patent plate input here is 18.1 Kw. It is a very heavy SOB.

The RHV886 here has three push buttons below the two 120 volt plugs.

Left is a range fan High/Low Off
Middle is light on and off
Right is upper oven light on and off

The RHV886 has no meat thermomoter; but has a roto grill Rotisserie Skewer in the upper oven; that is controlled by the top left oven knob.

The lower oven's door has no window; there is a round cooking microwave shelf that rotates.

The lower panel below the lower oven door is on the RHV886 full of the microwave tube and its power supply; at least 50 Lbs of stuff.

Random comments:

The fuse that is for the front 120 volt sockets is hidden in the back left burner area.

The unit here is heavy as heck, we actually have a steel sheet on each side on the floor to allow the unit pull out easier.

The relay for the lower oven is in the back and lower. Before installing your stove in a hole; make sure your lower oven works! Pulling the oven out to replace this relay here is not fun at all.

The front right bigger burner here is a Supermatic/temperature controlled burner with sensor. Ours has died or gotten flakey about 3 or 4 times since 1971. Parts houses price the sensor if they have one at many hundreds of dollars. The parts were 30 bucks in the 1970's.

Unit here draws gobs of power if maxed out with all on or maybe self cleaning. Patent plate 18.1 KW marked 115/230 to 120/240 volts. The amps thus at 235 volts would be 18100/235= 77 amps. That is the reason we got a 200 amp service back in 1971; the new range for the new house! Ours listed for 1125 and we dickered and outs cost about 900 ish.e

With our unit; we have a 4x10" metal vent that goes through the attic and vents to the roof. The oven draws both from the very top louver and lower vents above the burners. These of course are removeable and cleanable; I clean them with Dawn hand dish soap; which cuts grease real well.

The surface units are rated at both 236 and 250 volts in the specs as follows:

8" unit 2405 watts and 2700 watts
6" unit 1425 watts and 1600 watts

 

[3beltwesty]

The secret repair guide with schematics was with ours hidden in a slot behind the front panel with all the knobs. Our was their until the mid 1980's; when a jerk repair guy walked off with it. I visted my folks old house and found out that it was missing, the last repair guy walked off with it.

In this area the stove style and even color are considered old hat; thus units are hauled to the dump with a kitchen upgrade. The bizzare thing is the replacement range has no real vented "vent"; something I really like and would never ever not be without.!

The clock on mine died back in the 1980's and my dad got a new GE one for 68 bucks it lasted about 10 years and died, others I have seen are broken too. The unit here went 2 feet under salt water in Katrina and messed up the lower oven's relay; thus the lower oven is dead until I rig up a come along to pull the beast out!

The microwave part of the lower oven died in the 1980's; more due to lack of anybody who had an knowledge than really parts. One had to have a service guy from New Orleans; no locals had seen one before.

The supermatic burner here is used each day; but has its moments where sometimes it runs low.

I think the part numbers are WB21X5207 for the stove sensor for 225 BUCKS; ebay 100 to 190 bucks! and

WB21X182 RESPONDER for the variable control under the temp dial rare part

 

[combo52]

GE AMERICANA RANGE

Congratulations on your new range Doug. You diffidently got the better and more useful of the two appliances. This range is actually much more energy efficient than a new electric range as the lower oven is better insulated than almost any new S Cleaning oven and it cleans both ovens at the same time at the cost of only one.

 

If you really want a matching GE SXS get a new smooth door SXS and put the GE SXS handles and lower kick plate on it from one of your vinatge and have an auto body shop paint the front of the new one to match the range. 

 

[3beltwesty]

1

Here is a nice GE brochure scanned on another link. The "sister GE" model to my Hotpoint is on this brochure; a GE Versatronic Model J896 ; shipping weight a mighty 430 Lbs!

Your model maybe is a J792 or J795 or J797 ?

J797 and J795 have self cleaning

J797 has meat thermometer; thus maybe your unit with a shipping weight of just 363 Lbs!

Combo52's comment about the vent being removeable or an option is cool. The Hotpoint here came with the vent and I never thought about it being removebale.

My kitchen mess after cleaning up for days is in the other thread. The whole kitchen filled up with marsh grass and an 1/2 inch of mud; once the 2 feet of salt water left.

GE 1972 Appliances Catalogue Scan!!!

Merry Christmakkuh to my AW friends near and far!

www.automaticwasher.org

 

[3beltwesty]

The secret repair guide with schematics was with ours hidden in a slot behind the front panel with all the knobs. Our was their until the mid 1980's; when a jerk repair guy walked off with it. I visted my folks old house and found out that it was missing, the last repair guy walked off with it.

In this area the stove style and even color are considered old hat; thus units are hauled to the dump with a kitchen upgrade. The bizzare thing is the replacement range has no real vented "vent"; something I really like and would never ever not be without.!

The clock on mine died back in the 1980's and my dad got a new GE one for 68 bucks it lasted about 10 years and died, others I have seen are broken too. The unit here went 2 feet under salt water in Katrina and messed up the lower oven's relay; thus the lower oven is dead until I rig up a come along to pull the beast out!

The microwave part of the lower oven died in the 1980's; more due to lack of anybody who had an knowledge than really parts. One had to have a service guy from New Orleans; no locals had seen one before.

The supermatic burner here is used each day; but has its moments where sometimes it runs low.

I think the part numbers are WB21X5207 for the stove sensor for 225 BUCKS; ebay 100 to 190 bucks! and

WB21X182 RESPONDER for the variable control under the temp dial rare part

 

[3beltwesty]

Here my folks really wanted to buy the RHV886 in a brighter color like harvest gold; but there were none to be found. Thus we got the brownish model and and later we forgot about the color issue!. Now since it has been in the same place since early 1972 the color is not really a thing I notice.

 

[tomturbomatic]

The high KW draw would not be for the self-cleaning operation because all of the oven elements default to 115 volts during cleaning in the GE-designed self-cleaing system of that time. This is kinder to the porcelain, although it makes a very slow rinse in temperature. I would generally run the oven in BAKE up to about 450, close to the lock temp on CLEAN, then lock it and put it into clean.

Rarely would someone have all 4 surface units on high and both ovens with the elements cycled on to make that maximum KW draw.

 

[3beltwesty]

Here using all burners and both ovens was a rare thing too; but did happen a few times over the years during holidays when we had relatives visting. The double oven here is plumbed in with #6 AWG wire, sort of beefy.

 

[combo52]

GE AMERICANA RANGE VENTILATION SYSTEM

Power draw during SC cycle, you will notice I you look at the specs in an earlier post by 3BW that the SC oven only uses around 2200 watts when in the clean mode, less  than broiling or pre-heating in bake mode.

 

I see no safety concern in using this range without the ventilation system installed on the range, if it is removed and installed using good sense and proper regard for safety. Many range fires occur in ventilation systems and hoods  and the range is probably safer without a grease filled vent system. That said if you can use the vent system and modify the cabinets I would do so. But the grease spread all over the kitchen is less of a hazard than having it concerted inside metal ducts with a fan blowing air through them. I do however prefer to have my cooking appliances vented to the outside, my current kitchen has three vents going outside.

 

3BW I have 4 GE 950MH combination ranges in my collection, I am going to part out two of the HI-LO ranges if you need any parts for your HP. I also have at least 3 extra complete power packs from ranges that I stripped years ago. Get in touch if you need any parts.

 

 

 

[mixfinder]

Near Perfect

If one was to design the best burner, controls and oven in an electric range, this GE comes as close as any.  The burners are quick to heat, cool rapidly for an electric and are infinitely adjustable.  The oven bakes like a dream with the added insulation and it cleans itself.  Who could ask for more?

 

[a440]

<span style="font-family: georgia,palatino; font-size: medium;">What an awesome find Doug!  Such a well built, great looking unit!  It looks mint from the pictures. </span>

<span style="font-family: georgia,palatino; font-size: medium;">Too bad about the Side by Side.  I love that period of GE refrigerators!
</span>

<span style="font-family: georgia,palatino; font-size: medium;">Brent</span>

 

 

[BarnesBA]

J797 for cheap

I have an avocado J797 (I think) that I am replacing and planning to let HD haul it away when they deliver my new one....anyone want it? Two owner's manuals too ;-)

 

[danemodsandy]

If You....

....Get to the point that there are no other takers, would you be willing to talk about a few parts off the J 797? It uses some parts in common with the Model J 757, one of which I'm trying to restore.

Hopefully your range will be snapped up by someone who will preserve the whole thing, but if not, I could use the oven door handle, the little base pieces on the oven door handle, the chrome trim at the sides of the cooktop, and the burner units.

Again, I hope someone will take your whole range. But if it has to go to HD, a few parts off it aren't going to make any difference, and those parts will live on, even if the whole range doesn't.

Hope I haven't offended you....

 

[g3bill]

Maybe you did or didn't? Ask the home owner to pass on a message to the buyer of the frig if he still had the contact info so if they were to sell it in a year or two you could get it? Looks like they hardly used those appliances, nice find...